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NARRATIVE 



THE EXPLORIN& EXPEDITION 



TO 



THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 

IN THE YEAR 1842; 



OREGON AND NORTH CALIFORNIA, 

IN THE YEARS 1843-44. 



BY \Jca) 

BREVET CAPT. J. C/TREMONT, 

OF THE TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 

UNDER THE ORDERS OF COL. J. J. ABERT, CHIEF OF TOP. BUREAU 



SYRACUSE: 
PUBLISHED BY HALL & DICKSON. 
NEW YORK: — A. S. BARNES & CO. 

1847. 



DAVIES' 
COURSE OF MATHEMATICS. 



DAVIES' FIRST LESSONS IN ARITHMETIC— For beginnere. 

DAVIES' ARITHMETIC— Designed for tlie use of Academies and 
Sell 00 Is. 

KEY TO DAVIES' ARITHMETIC. 

DAVIES' UNIVERSITY ARITHMETIC— Embracing the Science 
of Numben), and their nunuTous applications. 

KEY TO DAVIES' UNIVERSITY ARITHMETIC. 

DAVIES' ELEMENTARY ALGEBRA— Being an Introduction to 
the Science, and forming a connecting link between Aritiimetic and 
Algebra. 

KEY TO DAVIES' ELEMENTARY ALGEBRA. 

DAVIES' ELEMENTARY GEOMETRY.— This work embraces the 
elementary principles of Geometry. The reasoning is plain and con- 
cise, but at the same time strictly rigorous. 

DAVIES' ELEMENTS OF DRAWING AND MENSURATION 
— Applied to the Mechanic Arts. 

DAVIES' BOURDON'S ALGEBRA— Including Sturms' Theorem,— 
Being an Abridgment of the work of M. Bourdon, with the addition of 
practical examples 

DAVIES' LEGENDRES GEOMETRY and TRIGONOMETRY. 

— Biing an Abridgment of the work of M. Legendre, with the addition 
of a Treatise on Mensuration ok Planes and Solius, and a Table of 
LocARiTiLMs and Logaritumic Slnes. 

DAVIES' SURVEYING— With a description and plates of the Theoi)- 
oi.iTE, Compass, I'lane-Tablk, and Level: also, Maps of the Toro- 
GKAPHICAL Signs adopted by the Engineer Department — an explana- 
tion of the method of surveying the Public Lands, and an Elementary 
Treatise on Navigation. 

DAVIES' ANALYTICAL GEO.METRY— Embracing the Eqi a- 
TioNs OK THE Point and Straight Line — of the Conic Sections — o'' 
the Link and Plane in Space — also, ilio discussion of the Generai. 
EyUATioN of the second degree, and of Surfaces of the second order. 

DAVIES' DESCRIPTIVE GEOMETRY,— With its application to 
Spherical Projectio.ns. 

DAVIES- SHADOWS and LINEAR PERSPECTIVE. 

DAVIES' DIFFERENTIA^^^^TEGRAL CALCULUS. 

Albert Adeit Olemons 

Auer. 24, 1938 

(Not available for ezchanfire) 



PREFACE. 



No work has appeared from the American press 
within the past few years better calculated to interest 
the community at large than Colonel J. C. Fremont's 
Narrative of his Exploring Expedition to the Rocky 
Mountains, Oregon, and North California, undertaken 
by the orders of the United States government. 

Eminently qualified for the task assigned him, Colonel 
Fremont entered upon his duties with alacrity, and has 
embodied in the following pages the results of his obser- 
vations. The country thus explored is daily making 
deeper and more abiding impressions upon the minds 
of the people, and information is eagerly sought in re- 
gard to its natural resources, its climate, inhabitants, 
productions, and adaptation for supplying the wants 
and providing the comforts for a dense population. 
The day is not far distant when that territory, hitherto 
so little known, will be intersected by railroads, its wa- 
ters navigated, and its fertile portions peopled by an 
active and intelligent population. 

To all persons interested in the successful extension 
of our free institutions over this now wilderness portion 
of our land, this work of Fremont commends itself as 
a faithful and accurate statement of the present state 
of affairs in that country. 



PREFACE. 



Since the preparation of this report, Colonel Fremont 
has been engaged in still farther explorations by order 
of the government, the results of which will probably be 
presented to the country as soon as he shall be relieved 
from his present arduous and responsible station. He 
is now engaged in active military service in New Mex- 
ico, and has won imperishable renown by his rapid and 
successful subjugation of that country. 

The Map accompanying this edition is not the one 
prepared by the order of government, but it is one that 
can be relied upon for its accuracy. 

July, 1847. 



A REPORT 

ON 

AN EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY 

LYING BETWEEN THE 

MISSOURI RIVER AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 

ON THE LINE OF THE 

KANSAS AND GREAT PLATTE RIVERS. 



Washington, March 1, 1843. 
To Colonel J. J. Abert, Chief of the. Corps of Top. Eng: 

Sir : Agreeably to your orders to explore and report upon 
the country between the frontiers of Missouri and the South 
Pass in the Rocky Mountains, and on the line of the Kansas 
and Great Platte rivers, I set out from Washington city on the 
2d day of May, 1842, and arrived at St. Louis by way of New 
York, the 22d of May, where the necessary preparations were 
completed, and the expedition commenced. I proceeded in a 
steamboat to Chouteau's landing, about four hundred mrres by 
water from St. Louis, and near the mouth of the Kansas river, 
%vhence we proceeded twelve miles to Mr. Cyprian Chouteau's 
trading-house, where we completed our final arrangements for 
the expedition. 

Bad weather, which interfered with astronomical observa- 
tions, delayed us several days in the early part of June at this 
post, which is on the right bank of the Kansas river, about 
ten miles above the mouth, and six beyond tha western bound- 
ary of Missouri. The sky cleared otT at length, and we were 



6 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

enabled to determine our position, in longitude 90° 25' 46'^, and 
latitude 39° 5' 57'^ The elevation above the sea is about 700 
feet. Our camp, in the mean time, presented an animated and 
bustling scene. All were busily engaged in completing the 
necessary arrangements for our campaign in the wilderness, 
and profiting by this short stay on the verge of civilization, to 
provide ourselves with all the little essentials to comfort in the 
nomadic life we were to lead for the ensuing summer months. 
Gradually, however, every thing — the materiel of the camp — 
men, horses, and even mules — settled into its place ; and by 
the 10th we were ready to depart ; but, before we mount our 
horses, I will give a short description of the party with which 
I performed the service. 

I had collected in the neighborhood of St. Louis twenty-one 
men, principally Creole and Canadian voyngeurs, who had be- 
come fiimiliar with prairie life in the service of the fur compa- 
nies in the Indian country. Mr. Charles Preuss, a native of 
Germany, was my assistant in the topographical part of the sur- 
vey ; L. Maxwell, of Kaskaskia, had been engaged as hunter, 
and Christopher Carson (more familiarly known, for his ex- 
ploits in the mountains, as Kit Carson) was our guide. The 
persons engaged in St. Louis were : 

Clement Lambert, J. B. L'Esperance, J. B. Lefevre, Ben- 
jamin Potra, Louis Gouin, J. B. Dumes, Basil Lajeunesse, 
Frangois Tessier, Benjamin Cadotte, Joseph Clement, Daniel 
Simonds, Leonard Benoit, Michel Morly, Baptiste Bernier, 
Honore Ayot, Francois La Tulipe, Francis Badeau, Louis 
Menard, Joseph Ruclle, Moise Chardonnais, Auguste Janisse, 
Raj^el Proue. 

In addition to these, Henry Brant, son of Col. J. B. Brant, 
of St. Louis, a young man of nineteen years of age, and Ran- 
dolph, a lively boy of twelve, son of the Hon. Thomas H. 
Bfnton, accompanied me, for the development of mind and 
Ijody such an expedition would give. We were well armed 
and mounted, with the exception of eight men, who conducted 
as many carts, in which were packed our stores, with the bag-' 
gage and instruments! and wiiich were drawn by two mules. 
A lew loose horsM, and four oxen, wliicli had been added to 




1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 7 

our stock of provisions, completed the train. We set out on 
the morning of the 10th, which happened to be Friday, a 
circumstance which our men did not fail to remember and re- 
call during the hardships and vexations of the ensuing jour- 
ney. Mr. Cyprian Chouteau, to whose kindness, during our 
stay at his house, we were much indebted, accompanied us 
several miles on our way, until we met an Indian, whom he 
had engaged to conduct us on the first thirty or forty miles, 
where he was to consign us to the ocean of prairie, which, we 
were told, stretched without interruption almost to the base of 
the Rocky Mountains. 

From the belt of wood which borders the Kansas, in which 
we had passed several good-looking Indian farms, we suddenly 
emerged on the prairies, which received us at the outset with 
some of their striking characteristics ; for here and there rode 
an Indian, and but a few miles distant heavy clouds of smoke 
were rolling before the fire. In about ten miles we reached 
the Santa Fe road, along which we continued for a short time, 
and encamped early on a small stream — having traveled about 
eleven miles. During our journey, it was the customary 
practice to encamp an hour or two before sunset, when the 
carts were disposed so as to form a sort of barricade around a 
circle some eighty yards in diameter. The tents were pitched, 
and the horses hobbled and turned loose to graze ; and but a 
few minutes elapsed before the cooks of the messes, of which 
there were four, were busily engaged in preparing the evening 
meal. At nightfall, the horses, mules, and oxen were driven 
in and picketed, — that is, secured by a halter, of which one 
end was tied to a small steel-shod picket, and driven into the 
ground ; the haller being twenty or thirty feet long, which en- 
abled them to obtain a little food during the night. When we 
had reached a part of the country where such a precaution 
became necessary, the carts being regularly arranged for de- 
fending the camp, guard was mounted at eight o'clock, con- 
sisting of three men, who were relieved every two hours — the 
morning- watch being horse-guard, for the day. At daybreak 
the camp was roused, the animals turned loose to graze, and 
breakfast generally over between six and seven o'clock, when 



8 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

we resumed our march, making regularly a halt at noon for 
one or two hours. Such was usually ihe order of the day, 
except when accident of country forced a variation ; which, 
however, happened but rarely. We traveled the next day 
along the Santa Fe road, which we left in the afternoon, and 
encamped late in the evening on a small creek, called by the 
Indians, Mishmugwi. Just as we arrived at camp, one of the 
horses set otf at full speed on his return, and was followed by 
others. Several men were sent in pursuit, and returned with 
the fugitives about midnight, with the exception of one man, 
who did not make his appearance until morning. He had 
lost his way in the darkness of the night, and slept on the 
prairie. Shortly after midnight it began to rain heavily, and, 
as our tents were of light and thin cloth, they offered but lit- 
tle obstruction to the rain : we were all well soaked, and glad 
when morning came. We had a rainy march on the 12th, 
but the weatlier grew fine as the day advanced. We encamp- 
ed in a remarkably beautiful situation on the Kansas bluffs, 
which commanded a fine view of the river valley, here from 
four to five miles wide. The central portion was occupied 
by a broad belt of heavy timber, and nearer the hills the 
prairies were of the richest verdure. One of the oxen was 
killed here for food. 

We reached the ford of the Kansas late in the afternoon of the 
14th, where the river was two hundred and thirty yards wide, 
and commenced, immediately, preparations for crossing. I 
had expected to find the river fordable ; but it had swollen by 
the late rains, and was sweeping by with an angry current, 
yellmv and turbid as the Missouri. Up to this point the road 
we had traveled was a remarkably fine one, well beaten, and 
level — tiic usual road of a prairie country. By our route, the 
ford was one hundred miles from the mouth of the Kansas 
river. Several mounted men led the way into the stream to 
swim ac.oss. Tiie animals were driven in after them, and in 
a few minutes all had reached the opposite bank in safety, 
with the exception of the oxen, which swam some distance 
down tlic river, and, returning to tlie right bank, were not got 
over till the next morning. In the mean time, the carts had 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 9 

been unloaded and dismantled, and an India-rubber boat, which 
I had brought with me for the survey of the Platte river, 
placed in the water. The boat was twenty feet long and five 
broad, and on it were placed the body and wheels of a cart, 
with the load belonging to it, and three men with paddles. 

The velocity of the current, and the inconvenient freight, 
rendering it difficult to be managed, Basil Lajeunesse, one of 
our best swimmers, took in his teeth a line attached to the 
boat, and swam ahead in order to reach a footing as soon as 
possible, and assist in drawing her over. In this manner six 
passages had been successfully made, and as many carts with 
their contents, and a greater portion of the party, deposited on 
the left bank ; but night was drawing near, and, in our anx- 
iety to have all over before the darkness closed in, I put upon 
the boat the remaining two carts, with their accompanying 
load. The man at the helm was timid on water, and in his 
alarm capsized the boat. Carts, barrels, boxes, and bales, 
were in a moment floating down the current ; but all the men 
who were on the shore jumped into the water, without stopping 
to think if they could swim, and almost every thing — even 
heavy articles, such as guns and lead — was recovered. 

Two of the men who could not swim came nigh being 
drowned, and all the sugar belonging to one of the messes 
wasted its sweets on the muddy waters ; but our heaviest loss 
was a large bag of cotTee, which contained nearly all our pro- 
vision. It was a loss which none but a traveler in a strange 
and inhospitable country can appreciate ; and often afterward, 
when excessive toil and long marching had overcome us with 
fatigue and weariness, we remembered and mourned over our 
loss in the Kansas. Carson and Maxwell had been mucli 
in the water yesterday, and both, in consequence, were taken 
ill. The former continuing so, I remained in camp. A num- 
ber of Kansas Indians visited us to-day. Going up to one of 
the groups who were scattered among the trees, I found one 
sitting on the ground, among some of the men, gravely and 
fluently speaking French, with as much facility and as little 
embarrassment as any of my own party, who were nearly all 
of French origin. 



10 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

On all sides was heard the strange language of his own peo- 
ple, wild, and harmonizing well with their appearance. I 
listened to him for some time with feelings of strange curiosity 
and interest. He was now apparently thirty-five years of age; 
and, on inquiry, I learned that he had been at St. Louis when 
a boy, and there had learned the French language. From one 
of the Indian women I obtained a fine cow and calf in ex- 
change for a yoke of oxen. Several of them brought us vege- 
tables, pumpkins, onions, beans, and lettuce. One of them 
brought butter, and from a half-breed near the river, I had the 
good fortune to obtain some twenty or thirty pounds of cotTee. 
The dense timber in which we had encamped interfered with 
astronomical observations, and our wet and damaged stores 
required exposure to the sun. Accordingly, the tents were 
struck early the next morning, and, leaving camp at six 
o'clock, we moved about seven miles up the river, to a hand- 
some, open prairie, some twenty feet above the water, where 
the fine grass atforded a luxurious repast to our horses. 

During the day we occupied ourselves in making astrono- 
mical observations, in order to lay down the country to this 
place ; it being our custom to keep up our map regularly in 
the field, which we found attended with many advantages. 
The men were kept busy in drying the provisions, painting the 
cart covers, and otherwise completing our equipage, until the 
afternoon, when powder was distributed to them, and they 
spent .some hours in firing at a mark. We were now fairly 
in the Indian country, and it began to be time to prepare for 
the chances of the wilderness. 

17th. — The weather yesterday had not permitted us to make 
the observations I was desirous to obtain here, and I therefore 
did not move to-day. The people continued their target fir- 
ing. In the steep bank of the river here, were nests of innu- 
merable swallows, into one of whicii a large prairie snake had 
got al)out half his body, and was occupied in eating the young 
birds. The old ones were flying about in great distress, dart- 
ing at him, and vainly endeavoring to drive him off. A shot 
Wounded him, and, being killed, he was cut open, and eighteen 
young swallows were foimd in his body. A sudden storm, 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 11 

that burst upon us in the afternoon, cleared away in a brilliant 
sunset, followed by a clear night, which enabled us to deter- 
mine our position in longitude 95° 38^ 05''^, and in latitude 
39° 06^ 40'\ 

A party of emigrants to the Columbia river, under the 
charge of Dr. White, an agent of the government in Oregon 
Territory, were about three weeks in advance of us. They 
consisted of men, women, and children. There were sixty- 
four men, and sixteen or seventeen families. They had a con- 
siderable number of cattle, and were transporting their house- 
hold furniture in large, heavy wagons. I understood that 
there had been much sickness among them, and that they had 
lost several children. One of the party who had lost his 
child, and whose wife was very ill, had left them about one 
hundred miles hence on the prairies ; and as a hunter, who 
had accompanied them, visited our camp this evening, we 
availed ourselves of his return to the States to write to our 
friends. 

The morning of the 1 8th was very unpleasant. A fine rain 
was falling, with cold wind from the north, and mists made 
the river hills look dark and gloomy. We left our camp at 
seven, journeying along the foot of the hills which border the 
Kansas valley, generally about three miles wide, and extreme- 
ly rich. We halted for dinner, after a march of about thir- 
teen miles, on the banks of one of the many little tributaries 
to the Kansas, which look like trenches in the prairie, and are 
usually well timbered. After crossing this stream, I rode 
off some miles to the left, attracted by the appearance of a 
cluster of huts near the mouth of the Vermilion. It was a 
large but deserted Kansas village, scattered in an open wood, 
along the margin of the stream, chosen with the customary 
Indian fondness for beauty of scenery. The Pawnees had at- 
tacked it in the early spring. Some of the houses were burnt, 
and others blackened with smoke, and weeds were already 
getting possession of the cleared places. Riding up the Ver- 
milion river, I reached the ford in time to meet the carts, and, 
crossing, encamped on its western side. The weather con- 
tinued cold, the thermometer being this evening as low as 49° ; 



l2 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

but the night was sufficiently clear for astronomical observa- 
tions, which placed us in longitude 96° 04' 07'^ and latitude 
39° IS' ig'^ At sunset, the barometer was at 28-845, ther- 
mometer 64°. 

We breakfasted the next morning at half-past five, and left 
our encampment early. The morning was cool, the ther- 
mometer being at 45°. Quitting the river bottom, the road 
ran along the uplands, over a rolling country, generally in 
view of the Kansas from eight to twelve miles distant. Many 
large boulders, of a very compact sandstone, of various shades 
of red, some of them of four or five tons in weight, were scat- 
tered along the hills ; and many beautiful plants in flower, 
among which the amorpha canescens was a characteristic, en- 
livened the green of the prairie. At the heads of the ravines I 
remarked, occasionally, thickets of saix longifolia, the most 
common willow of the country. We traveled nineteen miles 
and pitched our tents at evening on the head-waters of a small 
creek, now nearly dry, but having in its bed several fine 
springs. The barometer indicated a considerable rise in the 
country — here about fourteen hundred feet above the sea — and 
the increased elevation appeared already to have some slight 
influence upon vegetation. The night was cold, with a heavy 
dew ; the thermometer at 10 p. M. .standing at 46°, barometer 
28-483. Our position was in longitude 96° 14'' 49^', and lati- 
tudc 39° 30' 40''. 

The morning of the 20th was fine, with a southerly breeze 
and a bright sky ; and at seven o'clock we were on the march. 
The country to-day was rather more broken, rising still, and 
covered everywhere with fragments of silicious limestone, 
particularly on the summits, where they were small, and 
thickly strewed as pebbles on the shore of the sea. In these 
exposed situations grew but few plants; though, whenever the 
soil was good anil protecteii from the winds, in the trcek bot- 
toms and ravines, and on tiie slopes, they flourished abundant- 
ly ; among them the amorpha, still retaining its characteristic 
place. We crossed, at 10 a. m., the Big Vermilion, which 
has u rich l>ottnni nf about one mile in breailth, one-third of 
which is occupied by timber. Making our usual halt at noon, 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 13 

after a day's march of twenty-four miles, we reached the Big 
Blue, and encamped on the uplands of the western side, near 
a small creek, where was a fine large spring of very cold, wa- 
ter. This is a clear and handsome stream, about one hundred 
and twenty feet wide, running with a rapid current, through a 
well-timbered valley. To-day antelope were seen running 
over the hills, and at evening Carson brought us a fine deer. 
Longitude of the camp 96° 32' 35'^ latitude 39° 45' 08''. 
Thermometer at sunset 75°. A pleasant southerly breeze 
and fine morning had given place to a gale, with indications 
of bad weather ; when, after a march of ten miles, we halted 
to noon on a sijiall creek, where the water stood in deep pools. 
In the bank of the creek limestone made its appearance in a 
stratum about one foot thick. In the afternoon, the people 
seemed to suffer for want of water. The road led along a high 
dry ridge ; dark lines of timber indicated the heads of streams 
in the plains below ; but there was no water near, and the day 
was oppressive, with a hot wind, and the thermometer at 90°. 
Along our route the amorpha has been in very abundant but 
variable bloom — in some places bending beneath the weight of 
purple clusters ; in others without a flower. It seemed to love 
best the sunny slopes, with a dark soil and southern exposure. 
Everywhere the rose is met with, and reminds us of cultivated 
gardens and civilization. It is scattered over the prairies in 
small bouquets, and, when glittering in the dews and waving 
in the pleasant breeze of the early morning, is the most beau- 
tiful of the prairie flowers. The arlemisia, absinthe, or prairie 
sage, as it is variously called, is increasing in size, and glit- 
tering like silver, as the southern breeze turns up its leaves to 
the sun. All these plants have their insect inhabitants, vari- 
ously colored — taking generally the hue of the flower on which 
they live. The arlemisia has its small fly accompanying it 
through every change of elevation and latitude; and wherever 
I have seen the asclepias tuberosa, I have always remarked, 
too, on the flower a large butterfly, so nearly resembling it 
in color as to be distinguishable at a little distance only by 
the motion of its wings. Traveling on, the fresh traces of 
the Oregon emigrants relieve a little the loneliness of the road ; 

2 



14 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

and to-night, after a march of twenty-two miles, we halted on 
a small creek which had been one of their encampments. As 
we advanced westward, the soil appears to be getting more 
sandy ; and the surface rock, an erratic deposite of sand and 
gravel, rests here on a bed of coarse yellow and gray and very 
friable sandstone. Evening closed over with rain and its usual 
attendant liordes of mosquitoes, with which we were annoyed 
for the first time. 

•22d. — We enjoyed at breakfast this morning a luxury, very 
unusual in this country, in a cup of excellent cotfee, with 
cream from our cow. Being milked at night, cream was thus 
liad in the morning. Our mid-day halt was at Wyeth's creek, 
in the bed of whicli were numerous boulders of dark, ferru- 
ginous sandstone, mingled with others of the red sandstone 
already mentioned. Here a pack of cards, lying loose on the 
grass, marked an encampment of our Oregon emigrants ; and 
it was at the close of the day when we made our bivouac in 
the midst of some well-timbered ravines near the Little Blue, 
twenty-four miles from our camp of the preceding night. 
Crossing the next morning a number of handsome creeks, with 
water clear and sandy beds, we reached, at 10 a. 31., a very 
beautiful wooded stream, about thirty-five feet wide, called 
Sandy creek, and sometimes, as the Ottoes frequently winter 
there, the Otto fork. The country has become very sandy, 
and the plants less varied and abundant, with the exception of 
the amorpha, which rivals the grass in quantity, though not so 
forward as it has been found to the eastward. 

At the Big Trees, where we had intended to noon, no water 
was to be found. The bed of the little creek was perfectly 
dry, and, on the adjacent sandy bottom, cacti, ibr the lirsl time, 
made their appearance. We made here a short delay in search 
of water ; and, after a hard day's march of twenty-eight miles, 
oneamped, at •'3 o'clock, on the Little Blue, where our arrival 
made a scene of the Arabian desert. As fast as they arrived, 
men and horses rushed into the stream, where they batlied and 
drank together in common enjoyment. We were now in the 
range of the Pawnees, who were accustomed to infest this part 
of the country, stealing horses from companies on their way 



1842.] CAPT. frejioxt's narrative. 15 

to the mountains ; and, when in sufficient force, openly attack- 
ing and plundering thein, and subjecting them to various kinds 
of insult. For the first time, therefore, guard was mounted 
to-night. Our route the next morning lay up the valley, 
which, bordered by hills with graceful slopes, looked uncom- 
monly green and beautiful. The stream was about fifty feet 
wide, and three or four deep, fringed by cotton- wood and wil- 
low, with frequent groves of oak, tenanted by flocks of 
turkeys. Game here, too, made its appearance in greater 
plenty. Elk were frequently seen on the hills, and now and 
then an antelope- bounded across our path, or a deer broke 
from the groves. The road in the afternoon was over the 
upper prairies, several miles from the river, and we encamped 
at sunset on one of its small tributaries, where an abundance 
of prele {equisetum) afforded fine forage to our tired animals. 
We had traveled thirty-one miles. A heavy bank of black 
clouds in the west came on us in a storm between nine and 
ten, preceded by a violent wind. The rain fell in such tor- 
rents that it was difficult to breathe facing the wind ; the 
thunder rolled incessantly, and the whole sky was tremulous 
with lightning — now and then illuminated by a blinding* flash, 
succeeded by pitchy darkness. Carson had the watch from 
ten to midnight, and to him had been assigned our young 
compagjions de voyage, Messrs. Brant and R. Benton. This 
was their first night on guard, and such an introduction did 
not augur very auspiciously of the pleasures of the expedi- 
tion. Many things conspired to render their situation un- 
comfortable ; stories of desperate and bloody Indian fights 
were rife in the camp ; our position was badly chosen, sur- 
rounded on all sides by timbered hollows, and occupying an 
area of several hundred feet, so that necessarily the guards 
were far apart ; and now and then I could hear Randolph, as 
if relieved by the sound of a voice in the darkness, calling out 
to the sergeant of the guard, to direct his attention to some 
imaginary alarm ; but they stood it out, and took their turn 
regularly afterwards. 

The next morning we had a specimen of the false alarms to 
which all parties in these wild regions are subject. Proceed- 



16 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

ing up the valley, objects were seen on the opposite hills, 
which disappeared before a glass could be brought to bear 
upon them. A man who was a short distance in the i-ear, 
came springing up in great haste, shouting "Indians ! Indians!" 
He had been near enough to see and count them, according to 
his report, and had made out twenty-seven. I immediately 
halted ; arms were examined and put in order ; the usual pre- 
parations made ; and Kit Carson, springing upon one of the 
hunting horses, crossed the river, and galloped off into the 
opposite prairies, to obtain some certain intelligence of their 
movements. 

Mounted on a fine horse, without a saddle, and scouring bare- 
headed over the prairies. Kit was one of the finest pictures of 
a horseman I have ever seen, A short time enabled him to 
discover that the Indian war-party of twenty-seven consisted 
of six elk, who had been gazing curiously at our caravan as 
it passed by, and were now scampering off at full speed. 
This was our first alarm, and its excitement broke agreeably 
on the monotony of the day. At our noon halt, the men were 
exercised at a target ; and in the evening we pitched our tents 
at a Pawnee encampment of last July. They had apparently 
killed buffalo here, as many bones were lying about, and the 
frames where the hides had been stretched were yet standing. 
The road of the day had kept the valley, which is sometimes 
rich and well timbered, though the country generally is sandy. 
Mingled with the usual plants, a thistle {carduiis leucographiis) 
had for the last day or two made its appearance ; and along 
the river bottom, tradcscantia (virginica) and milk plant {as- 
clepias syriaca*) in considerable quantities. 

• This plant is very odoriferous, and in Canada charms the traveler, 
especially when passing through womls in the evening. The French there 
eat the tender shoots in the spring, as we do asparagus. The natives 
inaku a sugar of the flowers, gathering them in the morning wiien they 
are covered witji dew, and collect the cotton from their pods to fill their 
l)cd8. On account of the silkiness of this cotton, Parkinson culls the plant 
Virginian silk. — Ijoudoti'g Encyclopiedia of Plants. 

The Sioux ludians of the Ifpper Platte eat the young pods of this plant, 
boiling them with tho meat of the buffalo. 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 17 

Our march to-day had been twenty-one miles, and the as- 
tronomical observations gave us a chronometric longitude of 
98° 22' 12", and latitude 40" 26' 50'^ We were moving 
forward at seven in the morning, and in about five miles 
reached a fork of the Blue, where the road leaves that river, 
and crosses over to the Platte. No water was to be found on 
the dividing ridge, and the casks were filled, and the animals 
here allowed a short repose. The road led across a high und 
level prairie ridge, where were but few plants, and those prin- 
cipally thistle, {cardials leiicographus,) and a kind of dwarf 
artemisia. Antelope were seen frequently during the morning, 
which was very stormy. Squalls of rain, with thunder and 
lightning, were around us in every direction ; and while we 
were enveloped in one of them, a flash, which seemed to scorch 
our eyes as it passed, struck in the prairie within a few hun- 
dred feet, sending up a column of dust. 

Crossing on the way several Pawnee roads to the Arkansas, 
we reached, in about twenty-one miles from our halt on the 
Blue, what is called the coast of the Nebraska, or Platte river. 
This had seemed in the distance a range of high and broken 
hills ; but on a nearer approach was found to be elevations of 
forty to sixty feet into which the wind had worked the sand. 
They were covered with the usual fine grasses of the country, 
and bordered the eastern side of the ridge on a breadth of about 
two miles. Change of soil and country appeared here to have 
produced some change in the vegetation. Cacti were numer- 
ous, and all the plants of the region appeared to flourish 
among the warm hills. Among them the amorpha, in full 
bloom, was remarkable for its large and luxuriant purple 
clusters. From the foot of the coast, a distance of two miles 
across the level bottom brought us to our encampment on the 
shore of the river, about twenty miles below the head of Grand 
Island, which lay extended before us, covered with dense and 
heavy woods. From the mouth of the Kansas, according to 
our reckoning, we had traveled three hundred and twenty- 
eight miles ; and the geological formation of the country we 
had passed over consisted of lime and sand stone, covered by 
the same erratic deposite of sand and gravel which forms the 

2* 



18 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

surface rock of the prairies between the Missouri and Missis- 
sippi rivers. Except in some occasional limestone boulders, I 
had met with no fossils. The elevation of the Platte valley 
above the sea is here about two thousand feet. The astrono- 
mical observations of the night placed us in longitude 98° 45' 
49^', latitude 40° 41' 06'^ 

27th. — The animals were somewhat fatigued by their march 
of yesterday, and, after a short journey of eighteen miles 
along the river bottom, I encamped near the head of Grand 
Island, in longitude, by observation, 99^ 05' 24'^, latitude 40° 
39' 32". The soil was here light but rich, though in some 
places rather sandy ; and, with the exception of scattered 
fringe along the bank, the timber, consisting principally of 
poplar, (populus moniliefera,) elm, and hackberry, {celtis eras- 
sifoJia,) is confined almost entirely to the islands. 

28th. — We halted to noon at an open reach of the river, 
which occupies rather more than a fourth of the valley, here 
only about four miles broad. The camp had been disposed 
with the usual precaution, the horses grazing at a little dis- 
tance, attended by the guard, and we were all sitting quietly 
at our dinner on the grass, when suddenly we heard the start- 
ling cry, " Du monde !" In an instant, every man's weapon 
was in his hand, the horses were driven in, hobbled and 
picketed, and horsemen were galloping at full speed in the 
direction of the new-comers, screaming and yelling with the 
wildest excitement. " Get ready, my lads !" said the leader 
of the approaching party to his men, when our wild-looking 
horsemen were discovered bearing down upon them — " nous 
allons attraper des coups de baguette." They proved to be a 
small party of fourteen, under the charge of a man named 
.lohn Lee, and, with their baggage and provisions strapped to 
their backs, were making their way on foot to the frontier. 
A brief account of their fortunes will give some idea of navi- 
gation in the Nebraska. Sixty days since, they had left the 
mouth of Laramie's fork, some three hundred miles above, in 
barges laden with the furs of the American Fur Company. 
They started with the annual flood, and, drawing but nine 
inches water, hoped to make a speedy and prosperous voyage 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 19 

to St. Louis ; but, after a lapse of forty days, found them- 
selves only one hundred and thirty miles from their point of 
departure. They came down rapidly as far as Scott's blufls, 
where their difficulties began. Sometimes they came upon 
places where the water was spread over a great extent, and 
here they toiled from morning until night, endeavoring to drag 
their boat through the sands, making only two or three miles 
in as many days. Sometimes they would enter an arm of the 
river, where there appeared a fine channel, and, after descend- 
ing prosperously for eight or ten miles, would come suddenly 
upon dry sands, and be compelled to return, dragging their 
boat for days against the rapid current ; and at others, they 
came upon places where the water lay in holes, and, getting 
out to float off" their boat, would fall into water up to their 
necks, and the next moment tumble over against a sandbar. 
Discouraged at length, and finding the Platte growing every 
day more shallow, they discharged the principal part of their 
cargoes one hundred and thirty miles below Fort Laramie, 
which they secured as well as possible, and, leaving a few 
men to guard them, attempted to continue their voyage, laden 
with some light furs and their personal baggage. After fifteen 
or twenty days more struggling in the sands, during which 
they made but one hundred and forty miles, they sunk their 
barges, made a cache of their remaining furs and property in 
trees on the bank, and, packing on his back what each man 
could carry, had commenced, the' day before we encountered 
them, their journey on foot to St. Louis. We laughed then at 
their forlorn and vagabond appearance, and, in our turn, a 
month or two afterwards, furnished the same occasion for 
merriment to others. Even their stock of tobacco, that sine 
qua non of a voyageur, without which the night fire is gloomy, 
was entirely exhausted. However, we shortened their home- 
ward journey by a small supply from our own provision. 
They gave us the welcome intelligence that the buffalo were 
abundant some two days' march in advance, and made us a 
present of some choice pieces, which were a very acceptable 
change from our salt pork. In the interchange of news, and 
the renewal of old acquaintanceships, we found wherewithal 



20 CAPT. fremo.nt's narrative. [June, 

to fill a busy hour ; then we mounted our horses and they 
shouldered their packs, and we sliook liands and parted. 
Among them, 1 had found an old companion on the northern 
prairie, a hardened and hardly served veteran of the mountains, 
who had been as much hacked and scarred as an old mous- 
tache of Napoleon's " old guard." He flourished in the sobri- 
quet of La Tulipe, and his real name I never knew. Finding 
that he was going to the States only because his company was 
bound in that direction, and that he was rather more willing to 
return with me, I took him again into my service. We trav- 
eled this day but seventeen miles. 

At our evening camp, about sunset, three figures were dis- 
covered approaching, which our glasses made out to be Indians. 
They proved to be Cheyennes — two men, and a boy of thir- 
teen. About a month since, they had left their people on the 
south fork of the river, some three hundred miles to the west- 
ward, and a party of only four in number had been to the 
Pawnee villages on a horse-stealing excursion, from which 
they were returning unsuccessful. They were miserably 
mounted on wild horses from the Arkansas plains, and had no 
other weapons than bows and long spears ; and had they been 
discovered by the Pawnees, could not, by any possibility, have 
escaped. They were mortified by their ill-success, and said 
the Pawnees were cowards, who shut up their horses in their 
lodges at night. I invited them to supper with me, and Ran- 
dolph and the young Cheyenne, who had been eyeing each 
other suspiciously and curiously, soon became intimate friends. 
After supper we sat down on the grass, and I placed a sheet 
of paper between us, on which they traced, rudely, but with a 
certain degree of relative truth, the water-courses of the coun- 
try which lay between us and their villages, and of which I 
desired to have some information. Their companions, they 
told us, had taken a nearer route over the hills ; but tliey had 
mounted one of the sunnnits to spy out the country, whence 
they had caught a glimpse of our party, and, confident of good 
treatment at the hands of the whites, hastened to join company. 
Latitude of the ciimp 40^ 39' ryV. 

We made the next morning sixteen miles. I remarked that 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 21 

the ground was covered in many places with an efflorescence 
of salt, and the plants were not numerous. In the bottoms 
were frequently seen tradescantia, and on the dry lenches 
were carduus, cactus, and amorpha. A high wind during the 
morning had increased to a violent gale from the northwest, 
which made our afternoon ride cold and unpleasant. We had 
the welcome sight of two buffaloes on one of the large islands, 
and encamped at a clump of timber about seven miles from 
our noon halt, after a day's march of twenty-two miles. 

The air was keen the next morning at sunrise, the ther- 
mometer standing at 44°, and it was sufficiently cold to make 
overcoats very comfortable. A iew miles brought us into the 
midst of the buffalo, swarming in immense numbers over the 
plains, where they had left scarcely a blade of grass standing. 
Mr. Preuss, who was sketching at a little distance in the rear, 
had at first noted them as large groves of timber. In the sight 
of such a mass of life, the traveler feels a strange emotion of 
giandeur. We had heard from a distance a dull and confused 
murmuring, and, when we came in view of their dark masses, 
there was not one among us who did not feel his heart beat 
quicker. It was the early part of the day, when the herds 
are feeding ; and everywhere they were in motion. Here and 
there a huge old bull was rolling in the grass, and clouds of 
dust rose in the air from various parts of the bands, each the 
scene of some obstinate fight. Indians and buffalo make the 
poetry and life of the prairie, and our camp was full of their 
exhilaration. In place of the quiet monotony of the march, 
relieved only by the cracking of the whip, and an " avance 
done ! enfant de garce !" shouts and songs resounded from 
every part of the line, and our evening camp was always the 
commencement of a feast, which terminated only with our de- 
parture on the following morning. At any time of the night 
might be seen pieces of the most delicate and choicest meat, 
roasting en appolas, on sticks around the fire, and the guard 
were never without company. With pleasant weather and no 
enemy to fear, an abundance of the most excellent meat, and 
no scarcitj' of bread or tobacco, they were enjoving the oasis 
of a voyageur's life. Three cows were killed to-day. Kit 



22 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

Carson had shot one, and was continuing the chase in the midst 
of another herd, when his horse fell headlong, hut sprang up 
and joined the flying band. Though considerably hurt, he 
had the good fortune to break no bones ; and Maxwell, who 
was mounted on a fleet hunter, captured the runaway after a 
hard chase. He was on the point of shooting him, to avoid the 
loss of his bridle, (a handsomely mounted Spanish one,) when 
he found that his horse was able to come up with l»im. Ani- 
mals are frequently lo.st in this way ; and it is necessary to 
keep close watch over them, in the vicinity of the buflalo, in 
the midst of which they scour off to the plains, and are rarely 
retaken. One of our mules took a sudden freak into his head, 
and joined a neighboring band to-day. As we were not in a 
condition to lose horses, I sent several men in pursuit, and re- 
mained in camp, in the hope of recovering him ; but lost the 
afternoon to no purpose, as we did not see him again. Astro- 
nomical observations placed us in longitude 100^ 05' 47'^, 
latitude 40^ 49^ 55^ 



JULY. 

1st. — Along our road to-day the prairie bottom was more 
elevated and dry, and the river hills which border the right 
•side of tJie river higher, and more broken and picturesque in 
the outline. The country, too, was better timbered. As we 
were riding quietly along the bank, a grand herd of buffalo, 
someseven or eight hundred in number, came crowding up 
from the river, "where they had been to drink, and commenced 
cro.ssing the plain slowly, eating as they went. The wind 
was favorable ; the coolness of the morning invited toe.xercise; 
the ground was apparently good, and the distance across the 
prairie (two or three miles) gave us a fine opportunity to 
charge them before they could get among the river hills. It 
was too fine a prospect for a chase to be lost ; and, halting for 
a few moments, the hunters were brought up and saddled, and 
Kit Carson, Maxwell, and I, started together. Thev were 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 23 

now somewhat less than half a mile distant, and we rode easily 
along until within about three hundred yards, when a sudden 
agitation, a wavering in the band, and a galloping to and fro 
of some which were scattered along tlie skirts, gave us tiic in- 
timation that we were discovered. We started together at a 
hand gallop, riding steadily abreast of each other ; and here 
the interest of the chase became so engrossingly intense, that 
we were sensible to nothing else. We were now closing upon 
them rapidly, and the front of the mass was already in rapid 
motion for the hills, and in a few seconds the movement had 
communicated itself to the whole herd. 

A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought up the rear, and every 
now and then some of them faced about, and then dashed on 
after the band a short distance, and turned and looked again, 
as if more than half inclined to fight. In a few moments, 
however, during which we had been quickening our pace, the 
rout was universal, and we were going over the ground like a 
hurricane. When at about thirty yards^ we gave the usual 
shout, (the hunter's pas de charge,) and* broke into the herd. 
We entered on the side, the mass giving way in every direc- 
tion in their heedless course. Many of the bulls, less active 
and fleet than the cows, paying no attention to the ground, and 
occupied solely with the hunter, were precipitated to the earth 
with great force, rolling over and over with the violence of the 
shock, and hardly distinguishable in the dust. We separated 
on entering, each singling out his game. 

My horse was a trained hunter, famous in the West under 
the name of Proveau ; and, with his eyes flashing and the 
foam flying from his mouth, sprang on after the cow like a 
tiger. In a few moments he brought me alongside of her, and 
rising in the stirrups, I fired at the distance of a yard, the ball 
entering at the termination of the long hair, and passing near 
the heart. She fell headlong at the report of the gun ; and, 
checking my horse, I looked around for my companions. At 
a little distance, Kit was on the ground, engaged in tying his 
horse to the horns of a cow he was preparing to cut up. Among 
the scattered bands, at some distance below, I caught a glimpse 
of Maxwell ; and while I was looking, a light wreath of smoke 



24 CAPT. FREiMONT's NARRATIVE. [JuLY, 

curled away from his gun, from which I was too far to hear 
the report. Nearer, and between me and the hills, towards 
which they were directing their course, was the body of the 
herd ; and, giving my horse the rein, we dashed after them. 
A thick cloud of dust hung upon their rear, whicii fdled my 
mouth and eyes, and nearly smothered me. In the midst of 
this I could see nothing, and the buffalo were not distinguish- 
able until within thirty feet. They crowded together more 
densely still as I came upon them, and rushed along in such a 
compact body, that I could not obtain an entrance — the horse 
almost leaping upon them. In a few moments the mass divided 
to the right and left, the horns clattering with a noise heard 
above every thing else, and my horse darted into the opening. 
Five or six bulls charged on us as we dashed along the line, 
but were left fur behind ; and, singling out a cow, I gave her 
my fire, but struck too high. She gave a tremendous leap, 
and scoured on swifter than before. I -reined up my horse, 
and the band swept on like a torrent, and left the place quiet 
and clear. Our chase had led us into danfjorous cround. A 
prairie-dog village, so thickly settled that there were three or 
four holes in every twenty yards square, occupied the whole 
bottom for nearly two miles in length. Looking around, I saw 
only one of the hunters, nearly out of sight, and the long, dark 
line of our caravan crawling along, three or four miles distant. 
After a march of twenty-four miles, we encamped at nightfall, 
one mile and a half above the lower end of Brady's Island. 
The breadth of this arm of the river was eight hundred and 
eighty yards, and the water nowhere two feet in depth. The 
island bears tiie name of a man killed on this spot some years 
ago. His party had encamped here, three in company, and 
one of the number went off to hunt, leaving Brady and his 
companion together. These two had frequently quarreled, 
and on the hunter's return he found Brady dead, and was told 
that he had shot himself accidentally. He was buried here on 
the bank ; but, as usual, the wolves tore him out, and some 
human bones that were lying on the ground we supposed were 
his. Troops of wolves that were hanging on the skirts of the 
buffalo, kcj>t up an uninterrupted howling during the night, 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 25 

venturing almost into camp. In the morning, they were sitting 
at a short distance, barking, and impatiently waiting our de- 
parture, to fall upon the bones. 

2d. — The morning was cool and smoky. Our road led 
closer to the hills, which here increased in elevation, present- 
ing an outline of conical peaks three hundred to five hundred 
feet high. Some timber, apparently pine, grows in the ravines, 
and streaks of clay or sand whiten their slopes. We crossed, 
during the morning, a number of hollows, timbered principally 
with box, elder, (acer negundo,) poplar, and elm. Bi'ady's 
Island is well wooded, and all the river along which our road 
led to-day, may, in general, be called tolerably well timbered. 
We passed near the encampment of the Oregon emigrants, 
where they appeared to have reposed several days. A variety 
of household articles were scattered about, and they had prob- 
ably disburdened themselves here of many things not absolute- 
ly necessary. I had left the usual road before the mid-day 
halt, and in the afternoon, having sent several men in advance 
to reconnoitre, marched directly for the mouth of the South 
fork. On our arrival, the horsemen were sent in and scattered 
about the river to search for the best fording-places, and the 
carts followed immediately. The stream is here divided by an 
island into two channels. The southern is four hundred and 
fifty feet wide, having eighteen or twenty inches water in the 
deepest places. With the exception of a k\v dry bars, the bed 
of the river is generally quicksands, in which the carts began 
to sink rapidly so soon as the mules halted, so that it was ne- 
cessary to keep them constantly in motion. 

Tlie northern channel, two thousand two hundred and fifty 
feet wide, was somewhat deeper, having frequently three feet 
water in the numerous small channels, with a bed of coarse 
gravel. The whole breadth of the Nebraska, immediately be- 
low the junction, is five thousand three hundred and fifty feet. 
All our equipage had reached the left bank safely at six o'clock, 
having to-day made twenty miles. We encamped at the point 
of land immediately at the junction of the North and South 
forks. Between the streams is a low rich prairie extending 
from their confluence eighteen miles westwardly to the bor- 

3 



26 CAPT. FREiMONT's NARRATIVE. [JuLY, 

dering hills, where it is five and a half miles wide. It is cov- 
ered with a luxuriant growth of grass, and along the banks is 
a slight and scattered fringe of cottonwood and willow. In the 
buflalu-truils and wallows, I remarked saline efflorescences, to 
which a rapid evaporation in the great heat of the sun probably 
contributes, as the soil is entirely unprotected by timber. In 
the vicinity of these places there was a bluish grass, which the 
cattle refuse to eat, called by the voyageurs " herbe salce," 
(salt grass.) The latitude of the junction is 41° 04' 47'^, and 
longitude, by chronometer and lunar distances, lOO'^ 49' 43'". 
The elevation above the sea is about two thousand seven hun- 
dred feet. The hunters came in with a fat cow ; and, as we 
had labored hard, we enjoyed well a supper of roasted ribs 
and boudins, the chcf-d'ceuvre of a prairi» cook. Mosquitoes 
thronged about us this evening ; but, by ten o'clock, when the 
thermometer had fallen to 47°, they had all disappeared. 

3d. — As this was to be a point in our homeward journey, I 
made a cache (a term used in all this country for what is hid- 
den in the ground) of a barrel of pork. It was impossible to 
conceal such a proceeding from the sharp eyes of our Chey- 
enne companions, and I therefore told them to go and see what 
it was they were burying. They would otherwise have not 
failed to return and destroy our cache in expectation of some 
rich booty ; but pork they dislike and never eat. We left our 
camp at nine, continuing up the South fork, the prairie-bottom 
aflbrding us a fair road ; but in the long grass we roused myri- 
ads of mosquitoes and flies, from which our horses suffered 
severely. The day was smoky, with a pleasant breeze from 
the south, and the plains on the opposite side were covered 
with bulTalo. Having traveled twenty-five miles, we en- 
camped at six in the evening ; and the men were sent across 
the river for wood, as there is none here on the left bank. 
Our fires were partially made of the hnis de vache, the dry ex- 
crement of the bulValo, which, like that of the camel in the 
Arabian deserts, furnishes to the traveler a very good substi- 
tute for wood, burning like turf. Wolves in great numbers 
surrounded us during the night, crossing and recrossing from 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 27 

the opposite herds to our camp, and howling and trotting about 
in the river until morning. 

4th. — The morning was very smoky, the sun shining dimly 
and red, as in thick fog. The camp was roused by a salute 
at daybreak, and from our scanty store a portion of what our 
Indian friends called the " red fire-water" served out to the 
men. While we were at breakfast, a buffalo-calf broke through 
the camp, followed by a couple of wolves. In its fright, it had 
probably mistaken us for a band of butfalo. The wolves were 
obliged to make a circuit round the camp, so that the calf got 
a little the start, and strained every nerve to reach a large 
herd at the foot of the hills, about two miles distant ; but first 
one and then another, and another wolf joined in the chase, un- 
til his pursuers amounted to twenty or thirty, and they ran 
him down before he could reach his friends. There were a 
few bulls near the place, and one of them attacked the wolves 
and tried to rescue him ; but was driven off immediately, and 
the little animal fell an easy prey, half devoured before he was 
dead. We watched the chase with the interest always felt for 
the weak ; aind had there been a saddled horse at hand, he 
would have fared better. Leaving camp, our road soon ap- 
proached the hills, in which strata of a marl like that of the 
Chimney rock, hereafter described, made their appearance. It 
is probably of this rock that the hills on the right bank of the 
Platte, a little below the junction, are composed, and which are 
worked by the winds and rains into sharp peaks and^cones, 
giving them, in contrast to the surrounding level region, some- 
thing of a picturesque appearance. We crossed, this morning, 
numerous beds of the small creeks which, in the time of rains 
and melting snow, pour down from the ridge, bringing down 
with them, always, great quantities of sand and gravel, which 
have gradually raised their beds four to ten feet above the level 
of the prairie, which they cross, making each one of them a 
miniature Po. Raised in this way above the surrounding 
prairie, without any bank, the long yellow and winding line of 
their beds resembles a causeway from the hills to the river. 
Many spots on the prairie are yellow with sunflower, {heliari' 
thus.) 



28 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

As we were riding slowly along this afternoon, clouds of dust 
in the ravines, among .the hills to the riglit, suddenly attract- 
ed our attention, and in a few minutes column after column of 
buffalo came galloping down, making directly to the river. 
By the time the leading herds had reached the water, the 
prairie was darkened with the dense masses. Immediately 
before us, when the bands first came down into the valley, 
stretched an unbroken line, the head of which was lost among 
the river hills on the opposite side ; and still they poured down 
from the ridge on our right. From hill to hill, the prairie bot- 
tom was certainly not less than two miles wide ; and, allowing 
the animals to be ten feet apart, and only ten in a line, there 
were already eleven thousand in view. Some idea may thus 
be formed of their number when they had occupied the whole 
plain. In a short time they surrounded us on every side, ex- 
tending for several miles in the rear, and forward as far as the 
eye could reach ; leaving around us, as we advanced, an open 
space of only two or three hundred yards. This movement of 
the buffalo indicated to us the presence of Indians on the North 
fork. 4P- 

I halted earlier than usual, about forty miles from the junc- 
tion, and all hands were soon busily engaged in preparing a 
feast to celebrate the day. The kindness of our friends at St. 
Louis had provided us with a large supply of excellent pre- 
serves and rich fruit-cake ; and when these were added to a 
macaroni soup, and variously prepared dishes of the choicest 
butTalo-meat, crowned with a cup of cofTee, and enjoyed with 
prairie appetite, we felt, as we sat in barbaric luxury around 
our smoking supper on the grass, a greater sensation of enjoy- 
ment than the Roman epicure at his perfumed feast. But 
most of all it seemed to please our Indian friends, who, in the 
unrestrained enjoyment of the moment, demanded to know if 
our " medicine-days came often." No restraint was exercised 
at the hos|)itable board, and, to the great delight of his elders, 
our young Indian lad made himself extremely drunk. 

Our encampment was within a few miles of tiie place where 
the road crosses to the North fork, and various rea.sons led me 
to divide my party at this point. The North fork was the prin- 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 29 

cipal object of" my survey ; but I was desirous to ascend the 
South branch, witli a view of obtaining some astronomical po- 
sitions, and determining the mouths of its tributaries as far as 
St. Vrain's fort, estimated to be some two hundred miles far- 
ther up the river, and near to Long's Peak. There I hoped to 
obtain some mules, which I found would be necessary to re- 
lieve my horses. In a military point of view, I was desirous 
to form some opinion of the country relative to the establish- 
ment of posts on a line connecting the settlements with the 
south pass of the Rocky Mountains, by way of the Arkansas 
and the South and Laramie forks of the Platte. Crossing the 
country northwestwardly from St. Vrain's fort, to the Ameri- 
can Company's fort at the mouth of the Laramie, would give 
me some acquaintance with the affluents which head-in the 
mountain between the two ; I therefore determined to set out 
the next morning, accompanied by four men — Maxwell, Ber- 
nier, Ayot, and Basil Lajeunesse. Our Cheyennes, whose 
village lay up this river, also decided to accompany us. The 
party I left in charge of Clement Lambert, with orders to cross 
to the North ibrk; and at some convenient place, near to the 
CouUe des Frenes, make a cache of every thing not absolutely 
necessary to the further progress of our expedition. From this 
point, using the most guarded precaution in his march through 
the country, he was to proceed to the American Company's 
fort at the mouth of the Laramie's fork, and await my arrival, 
which would be prior to the 16th, as on that and the following 
night would occur some occultations which I was desirous to 
obtain at that place. 

5th. — Before breakfast all was ready. We had one led 
liorse in addition to those we rode, and a pack-mule, destined to 
carry our instruments, provisions, and baggage ; the last two 
articles not being of great weight. Tlie instruments consisted 
of a sextant, artificial horizon, &c., a barometer, spy-glass, and 
compass. The chronometer I of course kept on my person. I 
had ordered the cook to put up for us some flour, coffee, and 
s'Jgar, and our rifles were to furnish the rest. One blanket, 
in addition to his saddle and saddle blanket, furnished the ma- 
terials for each man's bed, and every one was provided with a 

3* 



80 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

change of linen. All were armed with rifles or double-bar- 
relled guns ; and, in addition to these, Maxwell and myself 
were furnished with excellent pistols. Thus accoutred, we 
took a parting breakfast with our friends, and set forth. 

Our journey the first day afforded nothing of any interest. 
We shot a buffalo towards sunset, and having obtained some 
meat for our evening meal, encamped where a little timber af- 
forded us the means of making a fire. Having disposed our 
meat on roasting-sticks, we proceeded to unpack our bales in 
search of coffee and sugar, and flour for bread. With the ex- 
ception of a little parched coffee, unground, we found nothing. 
Our cook had neglected to put it up, or it had been someiiow 
forgotten. Tired and hungry, with tough bull-meat witiiout 
salt, (for we had not been able to kill a cow,) and a little bit- 
ter coffee, we sat down in silence to our miserable fare, a very 
disconsolate party ; for yesterday's feast was yet fresh in our 
memories, and this was our first brush with misfortune. Each 
man took his blanket, and laid himself down silently ; for the 
worst part of these mishaps is, that they make people ill-humor- 
ed. To-day we had traveled about thirty-six miles. 

6th. — Finding that our present excursion would be attended 
with considerable hardship, and unwilling to expose more per- 
sons than necessary, I determined to send Mr. Preuss back to 
the party. His horse, too, appeared in no condition to sup. 
port the journey ; and accordingly, after breakfast, he took 
the road across the hills, attended by one of my most trusty 
men, Bernier. The ridge between the rivers is here about 
fifteen miles broad, and I expected h& would probably strike 
the fork near their evening camp. At all events he would not 
fail to find their trail, and rejoin them the next day. 

We continued our journey, seven in number, including the 
three Cheyennes. Our general course was southwest, up the 
valley of the river, which was sandy, bordered on the northern 
side of the valley by a low ridge ; and on the south, after 
seven or eight miles, the river hills became higher. Six miles 
from our resting-place we crossed the bed of a considerable 
stream, now entirrly dry — a bed of sand. In a grove of wil- 
lows, near the mouth, were the remains of a considerable fort. 



1842.] CAPT. fremoxt's narrative. 31 

constructed of trunks of large trees. It was apparently very- 
old, and had probably been the scene of some hostile encoun- 
ter among the roving tribes. Its solitude formed an impres- 
sive contrast to the picture which our imaginations involunta- 
rily drew of the busy scene which had been enacted here. 
The timber appeared to have been much more extensive for- 
merly than now. There were but few trees, a kind of long- 
leaved willow, standing ; and numerous trunks of large trees 
were scattered about on the ground. In many similar places 
I had occasion to remark an apparent progressive decay in the 
timber. Ten miles farther we reached the mouth of Lodge 
Pole creek, a clear and handsome stream, running through a 
broad valley. In its course through the bottom it has a uni- 
form breadth of twenty-two feet and six inches in depth. A 
few willows on the banks strike pleasantly on the eye, by 
their greenness, in the midst of hot and barren sands. 

The amorpha was frequent among the ravines, but the sun- 
flower (he/ianthus) was the characteristic ; and flowers of deep 
warm colors seem most to love the sandy soil. The impres- 
sion of the country traveled over to-day was one of dry and 
barren sands. We turned in towards the river at noon, and 
gave our horses two hours for food and rest. I had no other 
thermometer than the one attached to the barometer, which 
stood at 89*^, the height of the column in the barometer being 
26-235 at meridian. The sky was clear, with a high wind 
from the south. At 2 we continued our journey ; the wind 
had moderated, and it became almost unendurably hot, and 
our animals suffered severely. In the course of the afternoon, 
the wind rose suddenly, and blew hard from the southwest, 
with thunder and lightning, and squalls of rain ; these were 
blown against us with violence by the wind ; and, halting, we 
turned our backs to the storm until it blew over. Antelope 
were tolerably frequent, with a large gray hare ; but the 
former were shy, and the latter hardly worth the delay of 
stopping to shoot them ; so, as the evening drew near, we 
again had recourse to an old bull, and encamped at sunset on 
an island in the Platte. 

We ate our meat with a good relish this evening, for we 



32 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

were all in fine health, and had ridden nearly all of a long 
summer's day, with a burning sun reflected from tho sands. 
My companions slept rolled up in their blankets, and the In- 
dians lay in the grass near the fire ; but my sleeping-place 
generally had an air of more pretension. Our rifles were tied 
together near the muzzle, the butts resting on the ground, and 
a knife laid on the rope, to cut away in case of an alarm. 
Over this, which made a kind of frame, was thrown a large 
India-rubber cloth, which we used to cover our packs. This 
made a tent sufficiently large to receive about half of my bed, 
and was a place of shelter for my instruments ; and as I was 
careful always to put this part against the wind, I could lie 
here with a sensation of satisfied enjoyment, and hear the wind 
blow, and the rain patter close to my head, and know that I 
should be at least half dry. Certainly I never slept more 
soundly. The barometer at sunset was 26'010, thermometer 
at 81*^, and cloudy ; but a gale from the west sprang up with 
the setting sun, and in a few minutes swept away every cloud 
from the sky. The evening was very fine, and I remained up 
to take astronomical observations, which made our position in 
latitude 40° 51' IT', and longitude 103^ 07' 00". 

7th. — At our camp this morning, at six o'clock, the barom- 
eter was at "itrlBS, tiiermometer 69^, and clear, with a light 
wind from the southwest. The past night had been squally, 
with high winds, and occasionally a few drops of rain. Our 
cooking did not occupy much time, and we left camp early. 
Nothing of interest occurred during the morning. The same 
dreary barrenness, except that a hard marly clay had re- 
placed the sandy soil. Buffalo absolutely covered the plain, on 
both sides of the river, and whenever we ascended the hills, 
scattered herds gave life to the view in every direction. A small 
drove of wild horses made their appearance on the low river 
bottoms, a mile or two to the left, and I sent off one of the In- 
dians (who seemed very eager to catch one) on my led horse, 
a spirited and fleet animal. The savage manoeuvred a little to 
get the wind of the horses, in which he succeeded — approach- 
ing within a hundred vanls without beinc discovered. The 
chase for a few minutes was interesting. My hunter easily 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 33 

overtook and passed the hindmost of the wild drove, which the 
Indian did not attemp to lasso ; all his eirorts being directed to 
capture the leader. But the strength of the horse, weakened 
by the insufficient nourishment of grass, failed in a race, and 
all the drove escaped. We halted at noon on the bank of 
the river, the barometer at that time being 26-192, and the 
thermometer 103°, with a liglit air from the south and clear 
weather. 

In the course of the afternoon, dust rising among the hills, 
at a particular place, attracted our attention ; and, riding up, 
we found a band of eighteen or twenty buffalo bulls engaged 
in a desperate fight. Though butting and goring were be- 
stowed liberally, and without distinction, yet their efforts were 
evidently directed against one — a huge, gaunt old bull, very 
lean, while his adversaries were all fat and in good order. He 
appeared very weak, and had already received some wounds ; 
and, while we were looking on, was several times knocked 
down and badly hurt, and a very few moments would have put 
an end to him. Of course, we took the side of the weaker 
party, and attacked the herd ; but they • were so blind with 
rage, that they fought on, utterly regardless of our presence, 
although on foot and on horseback we were firing, in open 
view, within twenty yards of them. But this did not last long. 
In a very few seconds, we created a commotion among them. 
One or two, which were knocked over by the balls, jumped up 
and ran off into the hills ; and they began to retreat slowly 
along a broad ravine to the river, fighting furiously as they 
went. By the time they had reached the bottom, we had 
pretty well dispersed them, and the old bull hobbled off to lie 
down somewhere. One of his enemies remained on the ground 
where we had first fired upon them, and we stopped there for 
a short time to cut from him some meat for our supper. We 
had neglected to secure our horses, thinking it an unnecessary 
precaution in their fatigued condition ; but our mule took it 
into his head to start, and away he went, followed at full 
speed by the pack-horse, with all the baggage and instruments 
on his back. They were recovered and brought back, after 
a chase of a mile. Fortunately, every thing was well secured, 



34 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

so that notliing, not even the barometer, was m the least in- 
jured. 

The sun was getting low, and some narrow lines of timber, 
four or five miles distant, promised us a pleasant camp, where, 
with plenty of wood for fire, and comfortable shelter, and rich 
grass for our animals, we should find clear cool springs, instead 
of the warm water of the Platte. On our arrival, we found 
the bed of a stream fifty to one hundred feet wide, sunk some 
thirty feet below the level of the prairie, with perpendicular 
banks, bordered by a fringe of green Cottonwood, but not a 
drop of water. There were several small forks to the stream, 
all in the samQ condition. With the exception of the Platte 
bottom, the country seemed to be of a clay formation, dry, and 
perfectly devoid of -any moisture, and baked hard by tlie sun. 
Turning off* towards the river, we reached the bank in about a 
mile, and were delighted to find an old tree, with thick foliage 
and spreading branches, where we encamped. At sunset, the 
barometer was at 25*950, thermometer 81°, with a strong 
wind from S. 20° E., and the sky partially covered with heavy 
masses of cloud, which settled a little towards the horizon by 
ten o'clock, leaving it sufficiently clear for astronomical obser- 
vations, which placed us in latitude 40° 33' 26'', and longitude 
103° 30' 37". 

8th. — The morning was very pleasant. The breeze was 
fresh from S. 50° E., with few clouds; the barometer at six 
o'clock standing at 25-970, and the thermometer at 70°. Since 
leaving tlie forks our route had passed over a country alter- 
nately clay and sand, each presenting the same naked waste. 
On leaving camp this morning, we struck again a sandy 
region, in which the vegetation appeared somewhat more vig- 
orous than that which we had observed for the last few days ; 
and on the opposite side of the river were some tolerably large 
groves of timber. 

Journeying along, we came suddenly upon a place where 
the ground was covered witii liorses' tracks, whicii had been 
made since the rain, and indicated the immediate presence of 
Indians in our noigIilK)rhood. The buffalo, too, Mhich the day 
before had been so numerous, were nowhere in sight — another 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 35 

sure indication that there were people near. Riding on, we 
discovered the carcass of a bufllilo recently killed — perhaps 
the day before. We scanned the horizon carefully with the 
glass, but no living object was to be seen. For the next mile 
or two, the sround was dotted with buffalo carcasses, which 
showed that the Indians had made a surround here, and were 
in considerable force. We went on quickly and cautiously, 
keeping the river bottom, and carefully avoiding the hills ; but 
we met with no interruption, and began to grow careless again. 
We had already lost one of our horses, and here Basil's mule 
showed symptoms of giving out, and finally refused to advance, 
being what the Canadians call resie. He therefore dismounted, 
and drove her along before him ; but this was a very slow way 
of traveling. We had inadvertently got about half a mile in 
advance, but our Cheyenncs, who were generally a mile or 
two in the rear, remained with him. There were some dark- 
looking objects among the hills, about two miles to the left, 
here low and undulating, which we had seen for a little time, 
and supposed to be buffalo coming in to water ; but, happening 
to look behind. Maxwell saw the Cheyennes whipping up 
furiously, and another glance at the dark objects showed them 
at once to be Indians coming up at speed. 

Had we been well mounted and disencumbered of instru- 
ments, we might have set them at defiance ; but as it was, we 
were fairly caught. It was too late to rejoin our friends, and 
we endeavored to gain a clump of timber about half a mile 
ahead ; but the instruments and tired state of our horses did 
not allow us to go faster than a steady canter, and they were 
gaining on us fast. At first, they did not appear to be more 
than fifteen or twenty in number, but group after group darted 
into view at the top of the hills, until all the little eminences 
seemed in motion ; and, in a ^&\v minutes from the time they 
were first discovered, two or three hundred, naked to the breech- 
cloth, were sweeping across the prairie. In a ^ew hundred 
yards we discovered that the timber we were endeavoring to 
make was on the opposite side of the river ; and before we 
could reach the bank, down came the Indians upon us. 

I am inclined to think that in a few seconds more the lead- 

I 



36 CAPT. Fremont's nahrative. [July, 

ing man, and perhaps some of his companions, would have 
rolled in the dust ; for we had jerked the covers from our 
guns, and our fingers were on the triggers. Men in such 
cases generally act from instinct, and a charge from three 
hundred naked savages is a circumstance not well calculated 
to promote a cool exercise of judgment. Just as he was about 
to fu-e, Maxwell recognised the leading Indian, and shouted to 
him in the Indian language, "You're a fool, G — damn you — 
don't you know me ?" The sound of his own language seemed 
to shock the savage ; and, swerving his horse a little, he passed 
us like an arrow. He wheeled, as I rode out towards him, and 
gave me his hand, striking his breast and exclaiming " Ara- 
paho !" They proved to be a village of that nation, among 
whom Maxwell had resided as a trader a year or two pre- 
viously, and recognised him accordingly. We were soon in 
the midst of the band, answering as well as we could a multi- 
tude of questions ; of which the very first was, of what tribe 
were our Indian companions who were coming in the rear ? 
They seemed disappointed to know that they were Ciieyenncs, 
for they had fully anticipated a grand dance around a Pawnee 
scalp that night. 

The chief showed us his village at a grove on the river six 
miles ahead, and pointed out a band of buffalo on the other 
side of the Platte, immediately opposite us, which he said they 
were going to surround. They had seen the band early in 
the morning from their village, and had been making a large 
circuit, to avoid giving them the wind, when they discovered 
us. In a few minutes the women came galloping up, astride 
on their horses, and naked from their knees down and the hips 
up. They followed the men, to assist in cutting up and carry- 
ing oir the meat. 

The wind was blowing directly across the river, and the 
chief requested us to halt where we were for awhile, in order 
to avoid raising the herd. We tiierefore unsaddled our horses, 
and sat down on the bank to view the scene ; and our new ac- 
quaintances rode a few hundred yards lower down, and began 
crossing the river. Scores of wild-looking dogs followed, 
looking like troops of wolves, and having, in fact, but very 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 37 

little of the dog in their composition. Some of them remained 
with us, and I checked one of the men, whom I found aiming 
at one, which he was about to kill for a wolf. The day had 
become very hot. The air was clear, with a very slight 
breeze ; and now, at 12 o'clock, while the barometer stood at 
25-920, the attached thermometer was at 108°. Our Chey- 
ennes had learned that with the Arapaho village were about 
twenty lodges of their own, including their own families ; 
they therefore immediately commenced making their toilette. 
After bathing in the river, they invested themselves in some 
handsome calico shirts, which I afterwards learned they had 
stolen from my own men, and spent some time in arranging 
their hair and painting themselves with some vermilion I had 
given them. While they were engaged in this satisfactory 
manner, one of their half-wild horses, to which the crowd of 
prancing animals which had just passed had recalled the free- 
dom of her existence among the wild droves on the prairie, 
suddenly dashed into the hills at the top of her speed. She 
was their pack-horse, and had on her back all the worldly 
wealth of our poor Cheyennes, all their accoutrements, and all 
the little articles which they had picked up among us, with 
some few presents I had given them. The loss which they 
seemed to regret most were their spears and shields, and some 
tobacco which they had received from me. However, they 
bore it all with the philosophy of an Indian, and laughingly 
continued their toilette. They appeared, however, to be a 
little mortified at the thought of returning to the village in 
such a sorry plight. " Our people will laugh at us," said one 
of them, " returning to the village on foot, instead of driving 
back a drove of Pawnee horses." He demanded to know if I 
loved my sorrel hunter very much ; to which I replied, he was 
the object of my most intense affection . Far from being able 
to give, I was myself in want of horses ; and any suggestion 
of parting with the few I had valuable, was met with a per. 
emptory refusal. In the mean time, the slaughter was about 
to commence on the other side. So soon as they reached it, 
the Indians separated into two bodies. One party proceeded 
directly across the prairie, towards the hills, in an extended 

4 



38 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

line, while the other went up the river ; and instantly as they 
had given the wind to the herd, the chase commenced. The 
butralo started for the hills, but were intercepted and driven 
back towards the river, broken and running in every direction. 
The clouds of dust soon covered the whole scene, preventing 
us from having any but an occasional view. It had a very 
singular appearance to us at a distance, especially when look- 
ing with the glass. We were too far to hear the report of the 
guns, or any sound ; and at every instant, through the clouds 
of dust, which the sun made luminous, we could see for a 
moment two or three buffalo dashing along, and close behind 
them an Indian with his long spear, or other weapon, and in- 
stantly again they disappeared. The apparent silence, and 
the dimly seen figures flitting by with such rapidity, gave it a 
kind of dreamy effect, and seemed more like a picture than a 
scene of real life. It had been a large herd when tiie cerne 
commenced, probably three or four hundred in number ; but, 
though I watched them closely, I did not see one emerge from 
the fatal cloud where the work of destruction was going on. 
After remaining here about an hour, we resumed our journey 
in the direction of the village. 

Gradually, as we rode on, Indian after Indian came drop- 
ping along, laden with meat ; and by tlie time we had nearcd 
the lodges, the backward road was covered with the returning 
horsemen. It was a pleasant contrast with the desert road we 
had been traveling. Several had joined company with u.s, and 
one of the chiefs invited us to his lodge. The village con- 
sisted of about one hundred and twenty-five lodges, of which 
twenty were Cheyennes ; the latter pitched a little apart from 
the Arapahoes. They were disposed in a scattering manner 
on both sides of a broad, irregular street, about one Jiundred 
and fifty feet wide, and running along the river. As we rode 
along, I remarked near some of the lodges a kind of tripod 
frame, formed of three slender poles of birch, scraped very 
clean, to which were affixed tlie shield and spear, with some 
other weapons of a chief. All were .scrupulously clean, the 
spear-head was burnislied bright, and the shii id white and 
stainless. It reminded me of the days of feudal chivalry ; 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 39 

and when, as I rode by, I yielded to the passing impulse, and 
touched one of the spotless shields with the muzzle of my gun, 
I almost expected a grim w'arrior to start from the lodge and 
resent my challenge. The master of the lodge spread out a 
robe for me to sit upon, and the squaws set before us a large 
wooden dish of buffalo meat. He had lit his pipe in the mean 
while, and when it had been passed around, we commenced 
our dinner while he continued to smoke. Gradually, however, 
five or six other chiefs came in, and took their seats in silence. 
When w-e had finished, our host asked a number of questions 
relative to the object of our journey, of which I made no con- 
cealment ; telling him simply that I had made a visit to see 
the country, preparatory to the establishment of military posts 
on the way to the mountains. Although this was information 
of the highest interest to them, and by no means calculated to 
please them, it excited no expression of surprise, and in no 
way altered the grave courtesy of their demeanor. The 
others listened and smoked. I remarked, that in taking the 
pipe for the first time, each had turned the stem upward, with 
a rapid glance, as in offering to the Great Spirit, before he put 
it in his mouth. A storm had been gathering for the past 
hour, and some pattering drops in the lodge warned us that we 
had some miles to our camp. An Indian had given Max- 
well a bundle of dried meat, which was very acceptable, as 
we had nothing ; and, springing upon our horses, we rode off 
at dusk in the face of a cold shower and driving wind. We 
found our companions under some densely foliaged old trees, 
about three miles up the river. Under one of them lay the 
trunk of a large Cottonwood, to leeward of which the men 
had kindled a fire, and we sat here and roasted our meat in 
tolerable shelter. Nearly opposite was the mouth of one 
of the most considerable affluents of the South fork, la Fourche 
mix Castors, (Beaver fork,) heading off in the ridge to the 
southeast. 

9th. — This morning we caught the first faint glimpse of the 
Rocky mountains, about sixty miles distant. Though a tolera- 
bly bright day, there was a slight mist, and we were just able 
to discern the snowy summit of " Long's peak," (" les deux 



40 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

oreilles^' of the Canadians,) showing liivc a douci hear the 
horizon. I found it easily distinguishable, there being a per- 
ceptible difference in its appearance from the white clouds that 
were floating about the sky. I was pleased to find that among 
the traders the name of "Long's peak" had been adopted and 
become familiar in the country. In the ravines near this 
place, a light brown sandstone made its first appearance. 
About 8, we discerned several persons on horseback a mile or 
two ahead, on the opposite side of the river. Tliey turned in 
towards the river, and we rode down to meet them. We found 
them to be two white men, and a mulatto named Jim Beck- 
with, who had left St. Louis when a boy, and gone to live with 
the Crow Indians. He had distinguished himself amonji them 
by some acts of daring bravery, and had risen to the rank of 
chief, but had now, for some years, left them. They were in 
search of a band of horses that had gone off from a camp 
some miles above, in charge of Mr. Chabonard. Two of them 
continued down the river, in search of the horses, and the 
American turned back with us, and we rode on towards the 
camp. About eight miles from our sleeping-place, we reached 
Bijou's fork, an affluent of the right bank. Where we crossed 
it, a short distance from the Platte, it has a sandy bed about 
four hundred yards broad ; the water in various small streams, 
a few inches deep. Seven miles further brought us to the camp 
of some four or five whites, (New Englandcrs, I believe,) who 
had accompanied Captain Wyeth to the Columbia river, and 
were independent trappers. All had their squaws with them, 
and I was really surprised at the number of little fat, bullalo- 
fed bnys that were tumbling about the camp, all apparently of 
the same age, about three or four years old. They were en- 
camped on a rich bottom, covered with a profusion of rich 
grass, and had a large number of fine-looking horses and 
mules. We rested with them a few minutes, and in about two 
miles arrived at Chabonard 's camp, on an island in the Platte. 
On the heights above, we met the first Spaniard I had seen in 
the country. Mr. Chabonard was in the service of Bent and 
St. Vrain's company, and had left their fort some forty or 
fifty miles above, in the spring, with boats laden with the furs 



1842.] cAPT. Fremont's narrative. 41 

of the last year's trade. He had met the same fortune as the 
voyageurs on the North tbrk ; and, finding it 'impossible to 
proceed, had taken up liis summer's residence on this island, 
which he had named St. Helena. The river hills appeared to 
be composed entirely of sand, and the Platte had lost the 
muddy character of its waters, and here was tolerably clear. 
From the mouth of the South fork, 1 had found it occasionally 
broken up by small islands ; and at the time of our journey, 
which was at a season of the year when the waters were at a 
favorable stage, it was not navigable for any thing drawing 
six inches water. The current was very swift — the bed of 
the stream a coarse gravel. From the place at which we had 
encountered the Arapahoes, the Platte had been tolerably well 
fringed with timber, and the island here had a fine grove of 
very large cottonwoods, under whose broad shade the tents 
were pitched. There was a large drove of horses in the op- 
posite prairie bottom ; smoke was rising from the scattered fires, 
and the encampment had quite a patriai'chal air. Mr. C. re- 
ceived us hospitably. One of the people was sent to gather 
mint, with the aid of which he concocted very good julep ; 
and some boiled buffalo tongue, and coffee with the luxury 
of sugar, were soon^ set before us. The people in his employ 
were generally Spaniards, and among them I saw a young 
Spanish woman from Taos, whom I found to be Beckwith's 
wife. 

10th. — We parted with our hospitable host after breakfast 
the next morning, and reached St. Vrain's fort, about forty-five 
miles from St. Helena, late in the evening. This post is situ- 
ated on the South fork of the Platte, immediately under the 
mountains, about seventeen miles east of Long's peak. It is 
on the right bank, on the verge of the upland prairie, about 
forty feet above the river, of which the immediate valley is 
about six hundred yards wide. The stream is divided into 
various branches by small islands, among which it runs with 
a swift current. The bed of the river is sand and gravel, the 
water very clear, and here may be called a mountain-stream. 
This region appears to be entirely free from the limestones and 
marls which give to the Lower Platte its yellow and dirty color. 

4* 



42 CAPT. FREiMONx's NARRATIVE. [JuLY, 

The Black hills lie between the stream and the mountains, 
whose snowy peaks glitter a few miles beyond. At the fort 
we found Mr. St. Vrain, who received us witii much kindness 
and hospitality. Maxwell had spent the last two or three years 
between this post and the village of Taos ; and here he was at 
home, and among his friends. Spaniards frequently came 
over in search of employment ; and several came in shortly 
after our arrival. They usually obtain about six dollars a 
month, generally paid to them in goods. They are very use- 
ful in a camp, in taking care of horses and mules ; and I en- 
gaged one, who proved to be an active, laborious man, and was 
of very considerable service to nie. The elevation of the 
Platte here is five thousand four hundred feet above the sea. 
The neighboring mountains did not appear to enter far the re- 
gion of perpetual snow, which was generally confined to the 
northern side of the peaks. On the southern, I remarked very 
little. Mere it appeared, so far as I could judi^e in the dis- 
tance, to descend but a few hundred feet below the summits. 

I regretted that time did not permit me to visit them ; but 
the proper object of my survey lay among the mountains far- 
ther north ; and I looked forward to an exploration of their 
snowy recesses with great pleasure. Th(j j)iney region of the 
mountains to the south was envelojjed in smoke, and I was in- 
formed had been on fire for several months. Pike's peak is 
said to be visible from tliis place, about one hundred miles to 
the southward ; but the smoky state of the atmosphere prevent- 
ed my seeing it. The weather continued overcast during my 
stay here, so that I failed in determining the latitude, but ob- 
tained good observations for the time on the mornings of the 
11th and r2th. An assumed latitude of 40^ '22' 30" from the 
evening position of the rjtli, enabled me to obtain for a toler- 
ably correct longitude, lO.'j'^ 12' 12". 

12tli. — The kindness of Mr. St. Vrain enabled me to obtain 
a couple of horses and three good tnules ; and, with a further 
addition to our party of the Spaniard whom I had hired, and 
two others, who were going to obtain service at Laramie's fork, 
we resumed our journey at ten, on tiie morning of the 12th. 
We had been able to procure nothing at the post in the way 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 43 

of provision. An expected supply from Taos had not yet ar- 
rived, and a few pounds of coffee was all that could be spared 
to us. In addition to this we had dried meat enough for the 
first day ; on the next, we expected to find buffalo. From this 
post, according to the estimate of the country, the fort at the 
mouth of Laramie's fork, which was our next point of destina- 
tion, was nearly due north, distant about one hundred and 
twenty-five miles. 

For a short distance our road lay down the valley of the 
Platte, which resembled a garden in the splendor of fields of 
varied flowers, which filled the air with fragrance. The only 
timber I noticed consisted of poplar, birch, Cottonwood, and 
willow. In something less than three miles we crossed Thomp- 
son's creek, one of the affluents to the left bank of the South 
fork — a fine stream about sixty-five feet wide, and three feet 
deep. Journeying on, the low dark line of the Black hills 
lying between us and the mountains to the left, in about ten 
miles from the fort, we reached Cache a la Poudre, where we 
halted to noon. This is a very beautiful mountain-stream, 
about one hundred feet wide, flowing with a full swift current 
over a rocky bed. We halted under the shade of some, cotton- 
woods, with which the stream is wooded scatteringly. In the 
upper part of its course, it runs amid the wildest mountain 
scenery, and, breaking through the Black hills, falls into the 
Platte about ten miles below this place. In the course of our 
late journey, I had managed to become the possessor of a very 
untractable mule — a perfect vixen — and her I had turned over 
to my Spaniard. It occupied us about half an hour to-day to 
get the saddle upon her ; but, once on her back, Jose could not 
be dismounted, realizing the accounts given of Mexican horses 
and horsemanship ; and we continued our route in the after- 
noon. 

At evening, we encamped on Crow creek, having traveled 
about twenty-eight miles. None of the party were well ac- 
quainted with the country, and I had great difliculty in ascer- 
taining what were the names of the streams we crossed between 
the North and South forks of the Platte. This I supposed to 
be Crow creek. It is A\"hat is called a salt stream, and the 



44 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Julv, 

water stands in pools, having no continuous course. A fine- 
grained sandstone made its appearance in the banks. The ob- 
servations of the niglit placed us in latitude 40^ 42', longitude 
104° 57' 49". The barometer at sunset was 25-231 ; attached 
thermometer at G6°. Sky clear, except in the east, with a 
ligiit wind from the north. 

i:3th. — There being no wood here, we used last night the 
hois de vache, which is very plentiful. At our camp this 
morning, the barometer was at 25-235 ; the attached thermom- 
eter G0°. A few clouds were moving through a deep-blue 
sky, with a light wind from the west. After a ride of twelve 
miles, in a northerly direction, over a plain covered with innu- 
merable quantities of cacti, we reached a small creek in which 
there was water, and where several herds of buffalo were 
scattered about among the ravines, which always afford good 
pasturage. We seem now to be passing along the base of a 
plateau of the Black hills, in which the formation consists of 
marls, some of thcin wliite and laminated ; the country to the 
left rising suddenly, and falling off" gradually and uniformly to 
the right. In five or six miles of a northeasterly course, we 
struck a high ridge, broken into conical peaks, on whose sum- 
mits large boulders were gathered in heaps. The magnetic 
direction of the ridge is northwest and southeast, the glittering 
white of its precipitous sides making it visible for many miles 
to tile south. It is composed of a soft earthy limestone and 
marls, resembling that hereafter described in the neighbor- 
hood of the Chimney rock, on the North fork of the Platte, 
easily worked by the winds and rains, and sometimes moulded 
into very fantastic shapes. At the foot of the northern slope 
was the bed of a creek, some forty feet wide, coming, by fre- 
quent falls, from the bench above. It was shut in by high, 
perpendicular banks, in which were strata of wliite laminated 
marl. Its bed was perfectly dry, and the leading feature of 
the whole region is one of remarkable aridity, and perfect 
freedom from moisture. In about six miles wc crossed the 
bed of another dry creek ; and, continuing our ride over i high 
level prairie, a little before sundown we came suddenly upon 
a beautiful creek, which revived us with a feeling of delighted 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 45 

surprise by the pleasant contrast of the deep verdure of its 
banks with the parclicd desert wc had passed. We had suf- 
fered much to-day, both men and horses, for want of water ; 
having met with it but once in our uninterrupted march of 
forty miles ; and an exclusive meat diet creates much thirst. 

" Les bestias iienen mucha ha7nhre," said the young Spaniard, 
inquiringly : " y la gente ta?nbien," said I, " amiago, we'll camp 
here." A stream of good and clear water ran windiag about 
through the little valley, and a herd of buffalo were quietly 
feeding a little distance below. It was quite a hunter's para- 
dise ; and while some ran down towards the band to kill one 
for supper, others collected bois de vache for a fire, there being 
no wood ; and I amused myself with hunting for plants among 
the grass. 

It will be seen, by occasional remarks on the geological 
formation, that the constituents of the soil in these regions are 
good, and every day served to strengthen the impression in 
my mind, confirmed by subsequent observation, that the barren 
appearance of the country is due almost entirely to the ex- 
treme dryness of the climate. Along our route, the country had 
seemed to increase constantly in elevation. According to the 
indication of the barometer, we were at our encampment 5,440 
feet above the sea. 

The evening was very clear, with a fresh breeze from the 
south, 50° east. The barometer at sunset was 24*802, the 
thermometer attached showing 68°. I supposed this to be a 
fork of Lodge Pole creek, so far as I could determine from our 
uncertain means of information. Astronomical observations 
gave for the camp a longitude of 104° 39' ST'''', and latitude 
41° 08' 31''. 

14th. — The wind continued fresh from the same quarter in 
the morning ; the day being clear, with the exception of a Cew 
clouds in the horizon. At our camp, at six o'clock, the height 
of the barometer was 24-830, the attached thermometer 61°. 
Our course this morning was directly north by compass, the 
variation being 15° or 16° easterly. A ride of four miles 
brought us to Lodge Pole creek, which we had seen at the 
mouth of the South fork j crossing on the way two dry streams. 



46 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

in eighteen miles from our encampment of tlie past night, we 
reached a high bleak ridge, composed entirely of the same 
earthy limestone and marl previously described. I had never 
seen any thing which impressed so strongly on my mind a 
feeling of desolation. The valley, through which ran the 
waters of Horse creek, lay in view to the north, but too far to 
have any influence on the immediate view. On the peak of 
the ridge where I was standing, some seven hundred feet 
above the river, the wind was high and bleak ; the barren and 
arid country seemed as if it had been swept by fires, and in 
every direction the same dull ash-colored hue, derived from 
the formation, met the eye. On the summits were some 
stunted pines, many of them dead, all wearing the same ashen 
hue of desolation. We left the place with pleasure ; and, 
after we had descended several hundred feet, halted in one of 
the ravines, which, at the distance of every mile or two, cut 
the flanks of the ridge with little rushing streams, wearing 
something of a mountain character. We had already begun 
to exchange the comparatively barren lands for those of a 
more fertile character. Though the sandstone formed thq 
broken banks of the creek, yet they were covered with a thin 
grass ; and the fifty or sixty feet which formed the bottom land 
of the little stream were clothed with very luxuriant grass, 
among which I remarked willow and cherry, {cerasiis vir. 
giniana,) and a quantity of gooseberry and currant bushes oc- 
cupied the greater part. 

The creek was three or four feet broad, and about six inches 
deep, with a swift current of clear water, and tolerably cool. 
We had struck it too low down to find the cold water, which 
we should have enjoyed nearer to its sources. At two, p. M., 
the barometer was at 25*050, and the attached thermometer 
104°. A day of hot sunshine, with clouds, and moderate 
breeze from the south. Continuing down the stream, in about 
four miles we reached its mouth, at one of the main branches 
of Horse creek. Looking back upon the ridge, whose direc- 
tion appeared to be a little to the north of east, we saw it 
seamed at frcfjucnt mtervals with tlie dark lines of wooded 
streams, aflluents of the river that flowed so far as we could 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 47 

see along its base. We crossed, in the space of twelve miles 
from our noon halt, three or four forks of Horse creek, and 
encamped at sunset on the most easterly. 

The fork on which wc encamped appeared to have followed 
an easterly direction up to this place ; but here it makes a 
very sudden bend to the north, passing between two ranges of 
precipitous hills, called, as I was informed, Goshen's hole. 
There is somewhere in or near this locality a place so called, 
but I am not certain that it was the place of our encampment. 
Looking back upon the spot, at the distance of a few miles to 
the northward, the hills appear to shut in the prairie, through 
which runs the creek, with a semicircular sweep, which might 
very naturally be called a hole in the hills. The geological 
composition of the ridge is the same which constitutes the rock 
of the Court-house and Chimney, on the North fork, which ap- 
peared to me a continuation of this ridge. The winds and 
rains work this formation into a variety of singular forms. The 
pass into Goshen's hole is about two miles wide, and the hill 
on the western side imitates, in an extraordinary manner, a 
massive fortified place, with a remarkable fulness of detail. 
The rock is marl and earthy limestone, white, without the 
least appearance of vegetation, and much resembles maKonry 
at a little distance ; and here it sweeps around a level area 
two or three hundred yards in diameter, and in the form of a 
half moon, terminating on either extremity in enormous bas- 
tions. Along the whole line of the parapets appear domes 
and slender minarets, forty or fifty feet high, giving it every 
appearance of an old fortified town. On the waters of White 
river, where this formation exists in great extent, it presents 
appearances which excite the admiration of the solitary voy- 
ageur, and form a frequent theme of their conversation when 
speaking of the wonders of the country. Sometimes it offers 
the perfectly illusive appearance of a large city, with numer- 
ous streets and magnificent buildings, among which the Cana- 
dians never fail to see their cabaret — and sometimes it takes 
the form of a solitary house, with many large chambers, into 
which they drive their horses at night, and sleep in these nat- 
ural defences perfectly secure from any attack of prowling 



48 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

savages. Before reaching our camp at Goshen s hole, in 
crossing the immense detritus at the foot of the Castle rock, we 
were involved amidst winding passages cut by the waters of 
the hill ; and where, with a breadth scarcely large enough 
for the passage of a horse, the walls rise thirty and forty feet 
perpendicularly. This formation supplies the discoloration of 
the Platte. At sunset, the height of the mercurial column was 
25-500, the attached thermometer 80°, and wind moderate 
from S. 38° E. Clouds covered the sky with the rise of the 
moon, but I succeeded in obtaining the usual astronomical ob- 
servations, which placed us in latitude 41° 40' 13'^, and longi- 
tude 104° 24' 36''. 

15th. — At six this morning, the barometer was at 25-515, 
the thermometer 72° ; the day was fine, with some clouds 
looking dark on the south, with a fresh breeze from the same 
quarter. We found that in our journey across the country 
we had kept too much to the eastward. This morning, ac- 
cordingly, we traveled by compass some 15 or 20 to the west 
of north, and struck the Platte some thirteen miles below Fort 
Laramie. The day was extremely hot, and among the hills 
the wind seemed to have just issued from an oven. Our 
horses were nmch distressed, as we had traveled hard ; and 
it was with some ditliculty that they were all brought to the 
Platte, which we reached at one o'clock. In riding in towards 
the river, we found the trail of our carts, which appeared to 
have passed a day or two since. 

After having allowed our animals two hours for food and 
repose, we resumed our journey, and towards the close of the 
day can)e in sight of Laramie's fork. Issuing from the river 
hills, we came first in view of Fort Platte, a post belonging to 
Messrs. Sybille, Adams & Co., .situated immediately in the 
point of land at the junction of Laramie with the Platte. Like 
the post we had visited on tlie South fork, it was built of earth, 
and still unlinished, being enclosed with walls (or rather 
houses) on three of the sides, and open on the fourth to the 
river. A few hundred yards brought us in view of the post 
of the American Fur Coujpnny, called Fort John, or Laramie. 
This was a largo jwsU having more the air of military con- 



1842.] CAPT. frejiont's nari:ativk. 49 

struction than the fort at the mouth of the river. It is on the 
left bank, on a rising ground some twenty-five feet above the 
water ; and its lofty walls, whitewashed and picketed, with 
the large bastions at the angles, gave it quite an imposing ap- 
pearance in the uncertain light of evening. A cluster of 
lodges, which the language told us belonged to Sioux Indians, 
was pitched under the walls ; and, with the fine backgroimd 
of the Black hills and tha prominent peak of Laramie moun- 
tain, strongly drawn in the clear light of the western sky, 
where the sun had already set, the whole formed at the mo- 
ment a strikingly beautiful picture. From the company at 
St. Louis I had letters for Mr. Boudeau, the gentleman in 
charge of the post, by whom I was received with great hospi- 
tality and an efficient kindness, which was invaluable to me 
during my stay in the country. I found our people encamped 
on the bank, a short distance above the fort. All were well ; 
and, in the enjoyment of a bountiful supper, which coffee and 
bread made luxurious to us, we soon forgot the fatigues of the 
last ten days. 

16th. — I found that, during my absence, the situation of af- 
fairs had undergone some change ; and the usual quiet and 
somewhat monotonous regularity of the camp had given place 
to excitement and alarm. The circumstances which occasion- 
ed this change will be found narrated in the following extract 
from the journal of Mr. Preuss, which commences with the 
day of our separation on the South fork of the Platte : 

" Gth. — We crossed the plateau or highland between the two 
forks in about six hours. I let my horse go^as slow as he 
liked, to indemnify us both for the previous hardship ; and 
about noon we reached the North fork. There was no sign 
that our party had passed ; we rode, therefore, to some pine 
trees, unsaddled the horses, and stretched our limbs on the 
grass, awaiting the arrival of our company. After remaining 
here two hours, mycompanion became impatient, mounted his 
horse again, and rode off down the river to see if he could dis- 
cover our people. I felt so marode yet, that it was a horrible 
idea to me to bestride that saddle again ; so I lay still. I knew 
they could not come any other way, and then my companion, 

5 



50 CAPT. Fremont's .narrative. [July, 

one of the best men of the company, would not abandon me. 
The sun went down — he did not come. Uneasy I did not feel, 
but very hungry. I had no provisions, but I could make a 
fire ; and as I espied two doves in a tree, I tried to kill one. 
But it needs a better marksman than myself to kill a little bird 
with a rifle. I made a fire, however, lighted my pipe — this 
true friend of mine in every emergency — lay down, and let 
my thoughts wander to the far east. It was not many niinutes 
after when I heard the tramp of a horse, and my faithful com- 
panion was by my side. He had found the party, who had 
been delayed by making their cacAe, about seven miles below. 
To tJie good supper which he brought with him I did ample 
justice. He had forgotten salt, and I tried the soldier's substi- 
tute in time of war, and used gunpowder ; but it answered 
badly — bitter enough, but no flavor of kitchen salt. I slept 
well ; and was only disturbed by two owls, which were at- 
tracted by the fire, and took their place in the tree under which 
we slept. Their music seemed as disagreeable to my compan- 
ion as to myself; he fired his rifle twice, and then they let 
us alone. 

" 7th. — At about 10 o'clock, the party arrived ; and we con- 
tinued our journey through a country which ofl'ercd but little 
to interest the traveler. The soil was much more sandy than 
in the valley below the confluence of the forks, and the face 
of the country no longer presented the refreshing green which 
had hitherto characterized it. The rich grass M'as now found 
only in dispersed spots, on low grounds, and on the bottom land 
of the streams. A long drought, joined to extreme heat, had 
so parched up the upper prairies, that they were in many 
places bald, or covered only with a thin growth of yellow and 
poor grass. The nature of the soil renders it extremely sus- 
ceptible to the vicissitudes of the climate. Between the forks, 
and from their junction to the Black hills, the formation con- 
sists of marl and a soft earthy limestone, with granitic sand- 
stone. Such a formation cannot give rise to a sterile soil ; 
and, on our return in September, when the country had been 
watered by frequent rains, the valley of the Platte looked like 
a garden ; so rich was the verdure of the grasses, and so lux- 



1812.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 51 

uriant the bloom of abundant flowers. The wild sage begins 
to make its appearance, and timber is so scarce that we gen- 
erally made our fires of the bois de vachc. With the exception 
of now and then an isolated tree or two, standing like a light- 
house on the river bank, there is none to be seen. 

" 8th. — Our road to-day was a solitary one. No game made 
its appearance — not even a buffalo or a stray antelope ; and 
notliing occurred to break the monotony until about 5 o'clock, 
when the caravan made a sudden halt. There was a galloping 
in of scouts and horsemen from every side — a hurrying to and 
fro in noisy confusion ; rifles were taken from their covers ; 
bullet pouches examined : in short, there was the cry of ' In- 
dians,' heard again. I had become so much accustomed to 
these alarms, that they now made but little impression on me ; 
and before I had time to become excited, the new-comers were 
ascertained to be whites. It was a large party of traders and 
trappers, conducted by Mr. Bridger, a man well known in the 
history of the country. As the sun was low, and there was a 
fine grass patch not far ahead, they turned back and encamped 
for the night with us. Mr. Bridger was invited to supper ; 
and, after the table-doth was removed, we listened with eager 
interest to an account of their adventures. What they had 
met, we would be likely to encounter ; the chances which had 
befallen them, would probably happen to us ; and we looked 
upon their life as a picture of our own. He informed us that 
the condition of the country had become exceedingly dangerous. 
The Sioux, who had been badly disposed, had broken out into 
open hostility, and in the preceding autumn his party had en- 
countered them in a severe engagement, in which a number 
of lives had been lost on both sides. United with the Che- 
yenne and Gros Ventre Indians, they were scouring the upper 
country in war parties of great force, and were at this time in 
the neighborhood of the Red Buttes, a famous landmark, which 
was directly in our path. They had declared war upon every 
living thing that should be found westward of that point ; 
though their main object was to attack a large camp of whites 
and Snake Indians, who had a rendezvous in the Sweet Water 
valley. Availing himself of his intimate knowledge of the 



52 CAFT. kke.mo.nt's nakkative. [July, 

country, he Iiad ivach'.d Laramie by an unusual route through 
the Black hills, and avi)ided coming into contact with any of 
the scattered parties. This gentleman offered his services to 
accompany us as far as the head of the Sweet Water ; but the 
absence of our leader, which was deeply regretted by us all, 
rendered it impossible for us to enter upon such arrangements. 
In a camp consisting of men whose lives had been spent in 
this country, I expected to find every one prepared for occur- 
rences of this nature ; but, to my great surprise, I found, on 
the contrary, that this news had thrown them all into the great- 
est consternation ; and, on every side, I heard only one excla- 
mation, '■11 n'y aura pas de vie pour nous.' All the night, 
scattered groups were assembled around the fires, smoking 
their pipes, and listening with the greatest eagerness to exag- 
gerated details of Indian hostilities ; and in the morning I found 
the camp dispirited, and agitated by a variety of conflicting 
opinions. A majority of the people were strongly disposed to 
return ; but Clement Lambert, with some five or six others, 
professed their determination to follow Mr, Fremont to the ut- 
termost limit of his journey. The others yielded to their re- 
monstrances, and somewhat ashamed of their cowardice, con- 
cluded to advance at least as far as Laramie fork, eastward of 
which they were aware no danger was to be apprehended. 
Notwithstanding the confusion and excitement, we were very 
early on the road, as the days were extremely hot, and we 
were anxious to profit by the freshness of the morning. The 
.soft marly formation, over which we were now journeying, 
frequently offers to the traveler views of remarkable and pic- 
ture.sque beauty. To several of these localities, where the 
winds and the rain have worked the bluffs into curious sliapcs, 
the voyageurs have given names according to some fancied 
resemblance. One of these, called the Court-house, we passed 
about six miles from our encampment of last night, and towards 
noon came in sight of the celebrated Chimney rock. It looks, 
at this distance of about thirty miles, like what it is called — 
the long chimney of a steam factory establishment, or a shot 
tower in Baltiinore. Nntiiiiig occurretl to interrupt tlie quiet 
of the day, and we encamped on the river, after a marcii of 



1842.] CAPT. feemont's narrative. 53 

twenty-four miles. Buffalo had become very scarce, and but 
one cow had been killed, of which the meat had been cut into 
thin slices, and hung around the carts to dry. 

" 10th. — We continued along the same fine plainly beaten 
road, which the smooth surface of the country afforded us, for 
a distance of six hundred and thirty miles, from the frontiers 
of Missouri to the Laramie fork. In the course of the day we 
met some whites, who were following along in the train of Mr. 
Bridger ; and, after a day's journey of twenty-four miles, en- 
camped about sunset at the Chimney rock. It consists of marl 
and earthy limestone, and the weather is rapidly diminishing 
its height, which is not more than two hundred feet above the 
river. Travelers who visitl^ it some years since, placed its 
height at upwards of 500 feet. 

"11th. — The valley of the North fork is of a variable 
breadth, from one to four, and sometimes six miles. Fifteen 
miles from the Chimney rock we reached one of those places 
where the river strikes the bluffs, and forces the road to make 
a considerable circuit over the uplands. This presented an 
escarpment on the river of about nine hundred yards in length, 
and is familiarly known as Scott's bluffs. We had made a 
journey of thirty miles before we again struck the river, at a 
place where some scanty grass afforded an insufficient pas- 
turage to our animals. About twenty miles from the Chimney 
rock we had found a very beautiful spring of excellent and 
cold water ; but it was in such a deep ravine, and so small, 
that the animals could not profit by it, and we therefore halted 
only a few minutes, and found a resting-place ten miles fur- 
ther on. The plain between Scott's bluffs and Chimney rock 
Was almost entirely covered with drift-wood, consisting princi- 
pally of cedar, which, we were informed, had been supplied 
from the Black hills, in a flood five or six years since. 

" 12th. — Nine miles fcom our encampment of yesterday we 
crossed Horse creek, a shallow stream of clear water, about 
seventy yards \\»ide, falling into the Platte on the right bank. 
It was lightly timbered, and great quantities of drift-wood were 
piled up on the banks, appearing to be supplied by the creek 
from above. After a journey of twenty-six miles, we encamped 

5* 



54 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

on a rich bottom, which atforded fine grass to our animals. 
BuJFalo have entirely disappeared, and we live now upon the 
dried meat, which is exceedingly poor food. The marl and 
earthy limestone, which constituted the formation for several 
days past, had changed, during the day, into a compact white 
or grayish-white limestone, sometimes containing hornstone ; 
and at the place of our encampment this evening, some strata 
in the river hills cropped out to tlie height of thirty or forty 
feet, consisting of fine-grained granitic sandstone ; one of the 
strata closely resembling gneiss. 

" 13th. — To-day, about four o'clock, we reached Fort La- 
ramie, where we were cordially received. We pitched our 
camp a little above the fort, on tj^bank of the Laramie river, 
in wliich the pure and clear water of the mountain stream 
looked refreshingly cool, and made a pleasant contrast to the 
muddy, yellow waters of the Platte." 

1 walked up to visit our friends at the fort, which is a quad- 
rangular structure, built of clay, after the fashion of the .Mexi- 
cans, who are generally employed in building them. The 
walls are about fifteen feet high, surmounted with a wooden 
palisade, and form a portion of ranges of houses, which entire, 
ly surround a yard of about one hundred and thirty feet 
square. Every apartment has its door and window, — all, of 
course, opening on the inside. There are two entrances, op- 
posite each other, and midway the wall, one of which is a 
large and public entrance ; the other smaller and more pri- 
vate — a sort of postern gate. Over the great entrance is a 
square tower with loopholes, and, like the rest of the work, 
built of earth. At two of the angles, and diagonally opposite 
each other, ure large square bastions, so arranged as to sweep 
the four faces of the walls. 

This post belongs to the American Fur Company, and, at 
the time of our visit, was in charge of Mr. Boudeau. Two of 
the company's clerks, Messrs. Galpin and Kellogg, were with 
him, and he had in the fort about sixteen men. As usual, 
these had found wives among the Indian squaws ; and, with 
the usual accompaniment of children, the place had quite a 
populous appearance. It is hardly necessary to say, that the 



1842.] CAi'T. Fremont's narrative. 55 

object of the cstablisliinent is tivule with tlie neigiiboring tribes, 
who, in the course ot' tlie year, generally make two or three 
visits to the fort. In addition to this, traders, with a small 
outfit, are constantly kept amongst them. The articles of 
trade consist, on the one side, almost entirely of buffalo robes ; 
and, on the other, of blankets, calicoes, guns, powder and lead, 
with such cheap ornaments as glass beads, looking-glasses, 
rings, vermilion for painting, tobacco, and principally, and in 
spite of the prohibition, of spirits, brought into the country in 
the form of alcohol, and diluted with water before sold. While 
mentioning this fact, it is but justice to the American Fur 
Company to state, that, throughout the country, I have always 
found them strenuously opplfeed to the introduction of spiritu- 
ous liquors. But in the present state of things, when the 
country is supplied with alcohol — when a keg of it will pur- 
chase from an Indian every thing he possesses — his furs, his 
lodge, his horses, and even his wife and children — and when 
any vagabond who has money enough to purchase a mule can 
go into a village and trade against them successfully, without 
withdrawing entirely from the trade, it is impossible for them 
to discontinue its use. In their opposition to this practice, the 
company is sustained, not only by their obligation to the laws 
of the country and the welfare of the Indians, but clearly, also, 
on grounds of policy ; for, with heavy and expensive outfits, 
they contend at manifestly great disadvantage against the nu- 
merous independent and unlicensed traders, who enter the 
country from various avenues, from the United States and 
from Mexico, having no other stock in trade than some kegs of 
liquor, which they sell at the modest price of thirty-six dollars 
per gallon. The difference between the regular trader and 
the coureiir des bois, (as the French call the itinerant or ped- 
dling traders,) with respect to the sale of spirits, is here, as it 
always has been, fixed and permanent, and growing out of the 
nature of their trade. The regular trader looks ahead, and 
has an interest in the preservation of the Indians, and in the 
regular pursuit of their business, and the preservation of their 
arms, horses, and every thing necessary to their future and 
permanent success in hunting : the coureur des bois has no 



56 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

permanent interest, and gets what he can, and for what he can, 
from every Indian he meets, even at the risk of disabling hini 
from doing any thing more at hunting. 

The fort had a very cool and clean appearance. The great 
entrance, in which I found the gentlemen assembled, and which 
was floored, and about fifteen feet long, made a pleasant, 
shaded scat, through which the breeze swept constantly ; for 
this country is famous for high winds. In the course of the 
conversation, I learned the following particulars, which will 
explain the condition of the country. For several years the 
Cheyennes and Sioux had gradually become more and more 
hostile to the whites, and in the latter part of August, 1841, 
had had a rather severe engagenj^t with a party of sixty men, 
under the command of Mr. Frapp of St. Louis. The Indians 
lost eight or ten warriors, and the whites had their leader and 
four men killed. This fight took place on the waters of Snake 
river ; and it was this party, on their return under Mr. Bridger, 
which had spread so nmch alarm among my people. In the 
course of the spring, two other small parties had been cut otT 
by the Sioux — one on their return from the Crow nation, and 
the other among the Black hills. The emigrants to Oregon 
and Mr. Bridger's party met here, a few days before our arri- 
val. Divisions and misunderstandings had grown uj) among 
them ; they were already somewhat disheartened by the fa- 
tigue of their long and wearisome journey, and the feet of their 
cattle had become so much worn as to be scarcely able to 
travel. In this situation, they were not likely to find encour- 
agement in the hostile attitude of the Indians, and the new and 
unexpected difliculties which sprang up before them. They 
were told that the country was entirely swept of grass, and that 
few or no buffalo were to be found on their line of route ; and, 
with their weakened animals, it would be impossible for them 
to transport their lieavy wagons over the mountains. Under 
these circumstances, they disposed of their wagons and cattle 
at the forts ; selling them at tiie prices they had paid in the 
States, and taking in exchange cotfec and sugar at one dollar 
a pound, and miserable worn-out horses, which died before 
they reached the mountains. Mr. Boudeau informed me that 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 51i 

he had purchased thirty, and the lower fort eighty head of line 
cattle, some of them of the Durham breed. Mr. Fitzpatrick, 
whose name and high reputation are familiar to all who inter- 
est themselves in the history of this country, had reached La- 
ramie in company with Mr. Bridger ; and the emigrants were 
fortunate enough to obtain his services to guide them as far as 
the British post of Fort Hall, about two hundred and fifty miles 
beyond the South Pass of the mountains. They had started 
for this post on the 4th of July, and immediately after their de- 
parture, a war party of three hundred and fifty braves set out 
upon their trail. As their principal chief or partisan had lost 
some relations in the recent fight, and had sworn to kill the 
first whites on his path, it was supposed that their intention 
was to attack the party, should a favorable opportunity offer ; 
or, if they were foiled in their principal object by the vigilance 
of Mr. Fitzpatrick, content themselves with stealing horses and 
cutting off stragglers. These had been gone but a few days 
previous to our arrival. 

The effect of the engagement with Mr. Frapp had been 
greatly to irritate the hostile spirit of the savages; and imme- 
diately subsequent to that event, the Gross Ventre Indians had 
united with the Oglallahs and Cheyennes, and taken the field 
in great force — so far as I could ascertain, to the amount of 
eight hundred lodges. Their object was to make an attack on 
a camp of Snake and Crow Indians, and a body of about one 
hundred whites, who had made a rendezvous somewhere in the 
Green river valley, or on the Sweet Water. After spending 
some time in bufflilo hunting in the neighborhood of the Medi- 
cine Bow mountain, they were to cross over to the Green river 
waters, and return to Laramie by way of the South Pass and 
the Sweet Water valley. According to the calculation of the 
Indians, Mr. Boudeau informed me they were somewhere near 
the head of the Sweet Water. I subsequently learned that the 
party led by Mr. Fitzpatrick were overtaken by their pursuers 
near Rock Independence, in the valley of the Sweet Water ; 
but his skill and resolution saved them from surprise ; and, 
small as his force was, they did not venture to attack him open- 
ly. Here they lost one of their party by an accident, and, 



58 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

continuing up the valley, they came suddenly upon the large 
village. From these they met with a doubtful reception. Long 
residence and familiar acquaintance had given to Mr. Fitzpat- 
rick great personal influence among them, and a portion of 
them were disposed to let him pass quietly ; but by far the 
greater number were inclined to hostile measures ; and the 
chiefs spent the whole of one night, during which they kept the 
little party in the midst of them, in council, debating the ques- 
tion of attacking them the next day ; but the influence of ** the 
Broken Hand," as they called Mr. Fitzpatrick, (one of his 
handg having been shattered by the bursting of a gun,) at 
length prevailed, and obtained for them an unmolested pass- 
age ; but they sternly assured him that this path was no longer 
open, and that any party of the whites which should hereafter 
be found upon it would meet with certain destruction. From 
all that I have been able to learn, I have no doubt that the 
emigrants owe their lives to Mr. Fitzpatrick. 

Thus it would appear tliat the country was swarming with 
scattered war parties ; and when I heard, during the day, the 
various contradictory and exaggerated rumors which were in- 
cessantly repeated to them, I was not surprised that so much 
alarm prevailed among my men. Carson, one of the best and 
most experienced mountaineers, fully supjKirted the opinion 
given by Bridger of the dangerous state of the country, and 
openly expressed his conviction that we could not escape with- 
out some sharp encounters with the Indians. In addition to 
this, he made his will ; and among the circumstancrs which 
were constantly occurring to increase their alarm, this was the 
most unfortunate ; and I found that a number of my party had 
become so much intimidated, that they had requested to be 
discharged at this place. I dined to-day at Fort Platte, which 
has been mentioned as situated at the junction of Laramie river 
with the Nebraska. Here I heard a confirmation of the state- 
ments given alx)ve. The party of warriors, which had started 
a few days since on the trail of the emigrants, M'as expected 
back in fourteen days, to join the village with which their fam- 
ilies and the old men had remained. The arrival of the latter 
was hourly expected j and sonie Indians have just come in who 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 5# 

had left them on the Laramie fork, about twenty miles above. 
Mr. Bissonctte, one of the traders belonging to Fort Platte, 
urged the propriety of taking with me an interpreter and two 
or three old men of the village ; in which case, he thought 
there would be little or no hazard in encountering any of the 
war parties. The principal danger was in being attacked be- 
fore they should know wlio we were. 

They had a confused idea of the numbers and power of our 
people, and dreaded to bring upon themselves the military force 
of the United States. This gentleman, who spoke the lan- 
guage fluently, offered his services to accompany me so far as 
the Red Buttes. He was desirous to join the large party on 
its return, for purposes of trade, and it would suit his views, as 
well as my own, to go with us to the Buttes; beyond which 
point it would be impossible to prevail on a Sioux to venture, 
on account of their fear of the Crows. From Fort Laramie to 
the Red Buttes, by the ordinary road, is one hundred and thirty- 
five miles ; and, though only on the threshold of danger, it 
seemed better to secure the services of an interpreter for the 
partial distance, than to have none at all. 

So far as frequent interruption from the Indians would allow, 
we occupied ourselves in making some astronomical calcula- 
tions, and bringing the general map to this stage of our jour- 
ney ; but the tent was generally occupied by a succession of 
our ceremonious visiters. Some came for presents, and others 
for information of our object in coming to the country ; now 
and then, one would dart up to the tent on horseback, jerk off 
his trappings, and stand silently at the door, holding his horse 
by the halter, signifying his desire to trade. Occasionally a 
savage would stalk in with an invitation to a feast of honor, a 
dog feast, and deliberately sit down and wait quietly until I 
was ready to accompany him. I went to one ; the women 
and children were sitting outside the lodge, and we took our 
seats on buffalo robes spread around. Tlie dog was in a large 
pot over the fire, in the middle of the lodge, and immediately 
on our arrival was dished up in large wooden bowls, one of 
which was handed to each. The flesh appeared very glutinous, 
with something of the flavor and appearance of mutton. Feel- 



60 CAPT. Fremont's narrative [July, 

ing something move behind me, I looked round, and found that 
I had taken my seat among a litter of fat young puppies. Had 
1 been nice in such matters, the prejudices of civilization might 
have interfered with my tranquillity ; but, fortunately, I am 
not of delicate nerves, and continued quietly to empty my 
platter. 

The weather was cloudy at evening, with a moderate south 
wind, and the thermometer at six o'clock 85°. I was disap- 
pointed in my hope of obtaining an observation of an occultation, 
which took place about midnight. The moon brought with 
her heavy banks of clouds, through which she scarcely made 
her appearance during the night. 

The morning of the 18tii was cloudy and calm, the thermom- 
eter at si.x o'clock at 64°. About nine, with a moderate wind 
from the west, a storm of rain came on, accompanied by sharp 
thunder and lightning, which lasted about an hour. During 
the day the expected village arrived, consisting principally of 
old men, women, and children. Tiiey had a considerable num- 
ber of horses, and large troops of dogs. Their lodges were 
pitched near the fort, and our camp was constantly crowded 
with Indians of all sizes, from morning until night, at which 
time some of the soldiers generally came to drive them all otf 
to the village. My tent was the only place which thry re- 
spected. Here only came the chiefs and men of distinction, 
and generally one of them remained to drive away the women 
and children. The numerous strange instruments, applied to 
still stranger uses, excited awe and admiration among them ; 
and those which I used in talking with the sun and stars they 
looked upon with especial reverence, as mysterious things of 
" great medicine." 

Of the three barometers which I had brought with me 
thus far successfully, I found that two were out of order, 
and spent the greater part of the 19th in repairing them — 
an operation of no small difficulty in the midst of the inces- 
sant interruptions to which I was subjected. We had the 
misfortune to break here a large thermometer, graduated to 
show fifths of a degree, which I used to ascertain the tempera- 
ture of boiling water, and with which I hud promised myself 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. §B 

some interesting experiments in the mountains. We had but 
one remaining, on which the graduation extended sufficiently 
high ; and this was too small fur exact observations. During 
our stay here, the men had been engaged in making numerous 
repairs, arranging pack-saddles, and otherwise preparing for 
the chance of a rough road and mountain travel. All things 
of this nature being ready, I gathered them around me in the 
evening, and told them that " I had determined to proceed the 
next day. They were all well armed. I had engaged the 
services of Mr. Bissonette as interpreter, and had taken, in the 
circumstances, every possible means to ensure our safety. la 
the rumors we had heard, I believed there Avas much exagger- 
ation ; that they were men accustomed to this kind of life and 
to the country ; and that these were the dangers of every-day 
occurrence, and to be expected in the ordinary course of their 
service. They had heard of the unsettled condition of the 
country before leaving St. Louis, and therefore could not make 
it a reason for breaking their engagements. Still, I was un- 
willing to take with me, on a service of some certain danger, 
men on whom I could not rely ; and I had understood that 
there were among them some who were disposed to cowardice, 
and anxious to return ; they had but to come forward at once, 
and state their desire, and they would be discharged, with the 
amount due to them for the time they had served." To their 
honor be it said, there was but one among them who had the 
face to come forward and avail himself of the permission. I 
asked him some few questions, in order to expose him to the 
ridicule of the men, and let him go. The day after our de- 
parture, he engaged himself to one of the forts, tmd set oft' with 
a party to the Upper Missouri. I did not think that the situa- 
tion of the country justified me in taking our young compan- 
ions, Messrs. Brant and Benton, along with us. In case of 
misfortune, it would have been thought, at the least, an act of 
great imprudence ; and therefore, though reluctantly, I deter- 
mined to leave them. Randolph had been the life of the camp, 
and the "petit garcoii''' was much regretted by the men, to 
whom his buoyant spirits had afforded great amusement. 
They all, however, agreed irt the propriety of leaving him at 

6 



63 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

the fort, because, as they said, he might cost the lives of some 
of tho mon in a fight with the Indians. 

2 1st. — A portion of our baggage, with our field-notes and 
observations, and several instruments, were left at the fort. 
One of the gentlemen, Mr. Galpin, took charge of a barometer, 
which he engaged to observe during my absence ; and I in- 
trusted to Randolph, by way of occupation, the regular wind- 
ing up of two of my chronometers, which were among the in- 
struments left. Our observations showed that the chronometer 
which I retained for the continuation of our voyage had pre- 
served its rate in a most satisfactory manner. As deduced 
from it, the longitude of Fort Laramie is 7^ 01' 2V', and from 
lunar distance 7''01'29'''; giving for the adopted longitude 
104° 47' 43". Comparing the barometrical observations made 
during our stay here, with those of Dr. G. Engleman at St. 
Louis, we find for the elevation of the fort above the Gulf of 
Mexico 4,470 feet. The winter climate here is remarkably 
mild for the latitude ; but rainy weather is frequent, and the 
place is celebrated for winds, of which the prevailing one is the 
west. An east wind in summer, and a south wind in winter, 
are said to be always accompanied with rain. 

We were ready to depart ; the tents were struck, the mules 
geared up, and our horses saddled, and we walked up to the 
fort to take the stirrup cup with our friends in an excellent 
home-brewed preparation. While thus pleasantly engaged, 
seated in one of tho little cool chambers, at the door of whicii 
a man had been stationed to prevent all intrusion from the In- 
dians, a number of chiefs, several of them powerful, fine-looking 
men, forced their way into the room in spite of all opposition. 
Handing me the following letter, they took their seats in si- 
lence : — 

" Fort Platte, Juillet 21, 1842. 
" Mr. Fremont: — Lcs chefs sYtant assembles prdseiitcmcnt me discnt 
de vous iivertir do no point vous nietlre en route, avant que le parti de 
jeunes gens, qui est en dehors, soicnt de retonr. De plus, ils me disent qu'ils 
Bont tr^s-certains qu'ils feront feu Ji la p^emi^re rencontre. lis doivent Hni 
de retour dans sept fi huit jours. Excusez si je vous fais ces ohser>'ations, 
niais il me scmbic qu'il est mon devoir do vous overtir du danger. M6me 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 68 

de plus, les chefs sont les porteurs de ce billet, qui vous defendent de partir 
avant le retour des guerriers, 

" Je suis votre ob^issant serviteur, 

"JOSEPH BISSONETTE, 

" Par L. B. CHARTRAIN. 
" Les noms de quelques chefs. — Le Chapeau de Loutre, le Casseur de 
Filches, la Nuit Noir la Queue de Boeuf." 

[Translation.] 

" Fort Platte, July 21, 1842. 
" Mr. Fremont: — The chiefs having assembled in council, have just told 
me to warn you not to set out before the party of young men which is now 
out shall have returned. Furthermore, they tell me that they are very sure 
they will fire upon you as .soon as they meet you. They are expected back 
in seven or eight days. Excuse mo for making these observations, but it 
seems my duty to warn you of danger. Moreover, the chiefs who prohibit 
your setting out before the return of the warriors are the bearers of this note- 
" I am your obedient servant, 

"JOSEPH BISSONETTE, 

" By L. B. CHARTRAIN. 

" Names of some of the chiefs. — The Otter Hat, the Breaker of Arrows, 
the Black Night, the Bull's Tail." 

After reading this, I mentioned its purport to my compan- 
ions ; and, seeing thiit all were fully possessed of its contents, 
one of the Indians rose up, and, having first shaken hands with 
me, spoke as follows : 

"You have come among us at a bad time. Some of our 
people have been killed, and our young men, who are gone to 
the mountains, are eager to avenge the blood of their relations, 
which has been shed by the whites. Our young men are bad, 
and, if they meet you, they will believe that you are carrying 
goods and ammunition to their enemies, and will fire upon 
you. You have told us that this will make war. We know 
that our great father has many soldiers and big guns, and we 
are anxious to have our lives. We love the whites, and are 
desirous of peace. Thinking of all these things, we have de- 
termined to keep you here until our warriors return. We are 
glad to see you among us. Our father is rich, and we expect- 
ed that you would have brought presents to us — horses, guns, 



64 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

and blankets. But we are glad to see you. We look upon 
your coining as the light which goes before the sun : for you 
will tell our great father that you have seen us, and that we 
are naked and poor, and have nothing to eat ; and he will send 
us all these things." He was followed by others to the same 
effect. 

Tlie observations of the savage appeared reasonable ; but I 
was awaro that they had in view only the present object of de- 
taining me, and were unwilling 1 should go further into the 
country. In reply, I asked them, through the interpretation 
of Mr. Boudeau, to select two or three of their number to ac- 
company us until we should meet their people — they should 
spread their robes in my tent, and eat at my table, and on their 
return I would wive them presents in reward of their services. 
They declined, saying, that there were no young men left in 
the village, and that they were too old to travel so many days 
on horseback, and preferred now to smoke their pipes in the 
lodge, and lot the warriors go on the war-path. Besides, they 
had no power over the young men, and were afraid to interfere 
with them. In my turn I addressed them. 

" You say that you love the whites ; why have you killed 
so many already this spring? You say that you love the 
whites, and are full of many expressions of friendship to u.s ; 
but you are not willing to undergo the fatigue of a few days' 
ride to save our lives. We do not believe what you have 
said, and will not listen to you. Whatever a chief among u.s 
tells his .soldiers to do, is done. We are the soldiers of the 
great chief, your father. He has told us to come here and see 
this country, and all the Indians, his children. Why should 
we not go i Before we came, we heard that you had killed 
his people, and cca.sed to be his children ; but we came among 
you peaceably, holding out our liands. Now we find tliat the 
.stories we hcanl are not lies, and that you are no longer his 
friends and children. We have thrown away our bodies, and 
will not turn back. When you told us that your young men 
would kill u.s, you did not know that our hearts were strong, 
and you did not see the rifles wliich my young men carry in 
their hands. We are (ew, and you are many, and may kill 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 65 

us all ; but there will be much crying in your villages, for 
many of your young men will stay behind, and forget to re- 
turn with your warriors from the mountains. Do you think 
that our great chief will let his soldiers die, and forget to cover 
their graves ? Before the snows melt again, his warriors will 
sweep away your villages as the fire does the prairie in the 
autumn. See ! I have pulled down my while houses, and my 
people are ready : when the sun is ten paces higher, we shall 
be on the march. If you have any thing to tell us, you will 
say it soon." 

I broke up the conference, as I could do nothing with these 
people ; and, being resolved to proceed, nothing was to be 
gained by delay. Accompanied by our hospitable friends, we 
returned to the camp. We had mounted our horses, and our 
parting salutations had been exchanged, when one of the chiefs 
(the Bull's Tail) arrived to tell me that they had determined 
to send a young man with us^; and if I would point out the 
place of our evening camp, he should join us there. " The 
young man is poor," said he ; " he has no horse, and expects 
you to give him one." I described to him the place where I 
intended to encamp, and, shaking hands, in a few minutes we 
were among the hills, and this last habitation of whites shut 
out from our view. 

The road led over an interesting plateau between the North 
fork of the Platte on the right, and Laramie river on the left. 
At the distance often miles from the fort, we entered the sandy 
bed of a creek, a kind of defile, shaded by precipitous rocks, 
down which we wound our way for several hundred yards, to 
a place where, on the left bank, a very large spring gushes 
with considerable noise and force out of the limestone rock. 
It is called the " Warm Spring," and furnishes to the hitherto 
dry bed of the creek a considerable rivulet. On the opposite side, 
a little below the spring, is a lofty limestone escarpment, partially 
shaded by a grove of large trees, whose green foliage, in con- 
trast with the whiteness of the rock, renders this a picturesque 
locality. The rock is fossiliferous, and, so far as I was able to 
determine the character of the fossils, belongs to the carbonif- 
erous limestone of the Missouri river, and is probably the west- 

6* 



66 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

em limit of that formation. Beyond this point I met with no 
fossils of any description. 

I was desirous to visit the Platte near the point where it 
leaves the Black hills, and therefore followed this stream, for 
two or throe miles, to its mouth, where I encamped on a spot 
which afforded good grass and prele (eqitisetiwi) for our ani- 
mals. Our tents having been found too thin to protect our- 
selves and the instruments from the rains, which in this ele- 
vated country are attended with cold and unpleasant weather, 
I had procured from the Indians at Laramie a tolerably large 
lodge, about eighteen feet in diameter, and twenty feet in 
height. Such a lodge, when properly pitched, is, from its 
conical form, almost perfectly secure against the violent winds 
which are frequent in this region, and, with a fire in the centre, 
is a dry and warm shelter in bad weather. By raising the 
lower part, so as to permit the breeze to pass freely, it is con- 
verted into a pleasant summer residence, with the extraordina- 
ry advantage of being entirely free from niusquitoes, one of 
which I never saw in an Indian lodge. While we were en- 
gaged very unskilfully in erecting this, the interpreter, Mr. 
Bissonette, arrived, accompanied by the Indian and his wife. 
She laughed at our awkwardness, and offered her assistance, 
of which we were frequently afterwards obliged to avail our- 
selves, before the men acquired suflicient expertness to pitch 
it without difficulty. From this place we had a fine view of 
the gorge where the Platte issues from the Black hills, changing 
its character abruptly from a mountain stream into a river of 
the plains. Immediately around us the valley of the stream 
was tolerably open ; and at the distance of a few miles, where 
the river had cut its way through the hills, was the narrow 
cleft, on one side of which a lofty precipice of bright red rock 
rose vertically above the low hills which lay between us. 

22d. — In the morning, while breakfast was being prepared, 
I visited this place with my favorite man, Basil Lajeunesse. 
Entering so far as there was footing for the mules, we dis- 
mounted, and, tying our animals, continued our war\' on foot. 
Like the whole country, the scenery of the river had under- 
gone an entire change, and was in this ])lace the most beautiful 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 67 

I have ever seen. The breadth of the stream, generally near 
that of its valley, was from two to three hundred feet, with a 
swift current, occasionally broken by rapids, and the water 
perfectly clear. On either side rose the red precipices, and 
sometimes overhanging, two and four hundred feet in height, 
crowned with green summits, on which were scattered a few 
pines. At the foot of the rocks was the usual detritus, formed 
of masses fallen from above. Among the pines that grew here, 
and on the occasional banks, were the cherry, (cerasus vir- 
giniana,) currants, and grains de bceuf, (shephcrdia argeniea.) 
Viewed in the sunshine of a pleasant morning, the scenery- 
was of a most striking and romantic beauty, which arose from 
the picturesque disposition of the objects, and the vivid con- 
trast of colors. I thought with much pleasure of our approach- 
ing descent in the canoe through such interesting places ; and, 
in the expectation of being able at that time to give to them a 
full examination, did not now dwell so much as might have been 
desirable upon the geological formations along the line of the 
river, where they are developed witli great clearness. The 
upper portion of the red strata consists of very compact clay, 
in which are occasionally seen imbedded large pebbles. Be- 
low was a stratum of compact red sandstone, changing a little 
above the river into a very hard silicious limestone. There is 
a small but handsome open prairie immediately below this place, 
on the left bank of the river, which would be a good locality for 
a military post. There are some open groves of Cottonwood on 
the Platte. The small stream which comes in at this place is 
well timbered with pine, and good building rock is abundant. 

If it is in contemplation to keep open the communication 
with Oregon territory, a show of military force in this country 
is absolutely necessary : and a combination of advantages ren- 
ders the neighborhood of Fort Laramie the most suitable place, 
on the line of the Platte, for the establishment of a military 
post. It is connected with the mouth of the Platte and the 
Upper Missouri by excellent roads, which are in frequent use, 
and would not in any way interfere with the range of the buf- 
falo, on which the neighboring Indians mainly depend for sup- 
port. It would render any posts on the Lower Platte unneces- 



1 



68 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jlly, 

sary ; the ordinary communication between it and the Missouri 
being sufficient to control the intermediate Indians. It would 
operate effectually to prevent any such coalitions as are now 
formed among the (iros Ventres, Sioux, Cheyennes, and other 
Indians, and would keep the Oregon road through the valley 
of the Sweet Water and the South Pass of the mountains con- 
stantly open. It lies at the foot of a broken and mountainous 
region, along which, by the establishment of small posts in the 
neighborhood of St. Vrain's fort, on the South fork of the 
Platte, and Bent's fort, on the Arkansas, a line of communica- 
tion would be formed, by good wagon-roads, with our southern 
military posts, which would entirely command the mountain 
passes, hold some of the most troublesome tribes in check, and 
protect and facilitate our intercourse with the neighboring 
Spanish settlements. The valleys of the rivers on which they 
would be situated are fertile ; the country, which supports 
immense herds of buffalo, is admirably adapted to grazing; 
and herds of cattle might be maintained by the posts, or obtained 
from the Spanish country, which already supplies a portion of 
their provisions to the trading posts mentioned above. 

Just as we were leaving the camp this morning, our Indian came 
up, and stated his intention of not proceeding any further until 
he had seen the horse which I intended to give him. I felt 
strongly tempted to drive him out of the camp ; but his pres- 
ence appeared to give confidence to my men, and the interpreter 
thought it absolutely necessary. I was therefore obliged to do 
what he requested, and pointed out the animal, with which he 
seemed satisfied, and we continued our journey. I had ima- 
gined that Mr. Bissonette's long residence had made him ac- 
quainted with the country ; and, according to his advice, pro- 
ceeded directly forward, without attempting to gain the usual 
road. He afterwards informed me that he had rarely ever 
lost sight of the fort ; but the effect of the mistake was to 
involve us for a day or two among the hills, where, although 
we lost no time, we encountered an exceedingly rough road. 

To the south, along our line of march to-day, the main chain 
of the Black or Laramie hills rises precipitously. Time did 
not permit me to visit them ; but, from comparative informa- 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 69 

tion, the ridge is composed of the coarse sandstone or conglom- 
erate hereafter described. It appears to enter the region of 
clouds, which are arrested in their course, and lie in masses 
along the summits. An inverted cone of black cloud (cumu- 
lus) rested during all the forenoon on the lofty peak of Lara- 
mie mountain, which I estimated to be about two thousand 
feet above the fort, or six thousand five hundred above 
the sea. We halted to noon on the Fourche Amerc, so 
called from being timbered principally with the Hard amere, 
(a species of poplar,) with which the valley of the little stream 
is tolerably well wooded, and which, with large expansive 
summits, grows to the height of sixty or seventy feet. 

The bed of the creek is sand and gravel, the water dispersed 
over the broad bed in several shallow streams. We found 
here, on the right bank, in the shade of the trees, a fine spring 
of very cold water. It will be remarked that I do not men- 
tion, in this portion of the journey, the temperature of the air, 
sand, springs, &c.— an omission which will be explained in 
the course of the narrative. In my search for plants, I was 
well rewarded at this place. 

With thq change in the geological formation on leaving Fort 
Laramie, the whole face of the country has entirely altered its 
appearance. Eastward of that meridian, the principal objects 
which strike the eye of a traveler are the absence of timber, 
and the immense expanse of prairie, covered with the verdure 
of rich grasses, and highly adapted for pasturage. Wherever 
they are not disturbed by the vicinity of man, large herds of 
buffalo give animation to this country. Westward of Laramie 
river, the region is sandy, and apparently sterile ; and the 
place of the grass is usurped by the artemisia and other odorif- 
erous plants, to whose growth the sandy soil and dry air of this 
elevated region seem highly favorable. 

One of the promipent characteristics in the face of the coun- 
try is the extraordinary abundance of the artemisias. They 
grow everywhere — on the hills, and over the river bottoms, 
in tough, twisted, wiry clumps ; .and, wherever the beaten 
track was left, they rendered the progress of the carts rough 
and slow. As the countrv increased in elevation on our ad- 



70 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

Vance to the west, they increased in size ; and the whole air 
is strongly impregnated and saturated with the odor of cam- 
phor and spirits of turpentine which belongs to this plant. 
This climate has been found very favorable to the restoration 
of health, particularly in cases of consumption ; and possibly 
the respiration of air so highly impregnated with aromatic 
plants may have some influence. 

Our dried meat had given outj and we began to be in want 
of food ; but one of the hunters killed an antelope this even- 
ing, which afforded some relief, although it did not go far 
among so many hungry men. At eight o'clock at night, after 
a march of twenty-seven miles, we reached our proposed en- 
campment on the Fer-d-Cheval, or Horse-shoe creek. Here 
we found good grass, with a great quantity (fi( prcic, which fur- 
nished good food fjr our tired animals. Tliis creek is well 
timbered, principally with Hard amere, and, with tiie exception 
of Deer creek, which we had not yet reached, is the largest af- 
fluent of the right bank between Laramie and the mouth of the 
Sweet Water. 

23d. — The present year had been one of unparalleled drought, 
and throughout the country the water had been almost dried 
up. By availing themselves of the annual rise, the traders 
had invariably succeeded in carrying their furs to the Mis- 
souri ; but this season, as has already been mentioned, on both 
forks of the Platte they had entirely failed. The greater num- 
ber of the springs, and many of the streams, which made halt- 
ing places for the voyageurs, had been dried up. Everywiiere 
the soil looked parched and burnt, the scanty yellow grass 
crisped under the foot, and even the hardest plants were de- 
stroyed by want of moisture. I think it necessary to mention 
this fact, because to the rapid evaporation in such an elevated 
region, nearly five thousand feet above the sea, almost wholly 
unprotected by timber, should be attributed much of the sterile 
appearance of the country, in the destruction of vegetation, and 
the numerous saline eillorescences which covered the ground. 
Such I afterwards found to be the case. 

I was informed that the roving villages of Indians and trav- 
elers had never met with dilficultv in finding abundance of 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 71 

grass for their horses ; and now it was after great search that 
we were able to find a scanty patch of grass sufficient to keep 
them from sinking ; and in the course of a day or two they 
began to suffer very much. We found none to-day at noon ; 
and, in the course of our search on the Platte, came to a grove 
of Cottonwood, where some Indian village had recently en- 
camped. Boughs of the cottonwood yet green covered the 
ground, which the Indians had cut down to feed their horses 
upon. It is only in the winter that recourse is had to this means 
of sustaining them ; and their resort to it at this time was a 
striking evidence of the state of the country. We followed 
their example, and turned our horses into a grove of young 
poplars. This began to present itself as a very serious evil, 
for on our animals depended altogether the further prosecution 
of our journey. 

Shortly after we had left this place, the scouts came gallop- 
ing in with the alarm of Indians. We turned in immediately 
towards the river, which here had a steep, high bank, where 
we formed with the carts a very close barricade, resting on 
the river, within which the animals were strongly hobbled and 
picketed. The guns were discharged and reloaded, and men 
thrown forward under cover of the bank, in the direction by 
which the Indians were expected. Our interpreter, who, with 
the Indian, had gone to meet them, came in, in about ten min- 
utes, accompanied by two Sioux. They looked sulky, and 
we could obtain from them only some confused information. 
We learned that they belonged to the party which had been on 
the trail of the emigrants, whom they had overtaken at Rock 
Independence, on the Sweet Water. Here the party had dis- 
agreed, and came nigh fighting among themselves. One portion 
were desirous of attacking the whites, but the others were op- 
posed to it ; and finally they had broken up into small bands, and 
dispersed over the country. The greatest portion of them had 
gone over into the territory of the Crows, and intended to re- 
turn by way of the Wind River valley, in the hope of being 
able to fall upon some small parties of Crow Indians. The 
remainder were returning down the Platte, in scattered par- 
ties of ten and twenty ; and those whom we had encountered 



72 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

belonged to those who had advocated an attack on the emi- 
grants. Several of the men suggested shooting them on the 
spot ; but I promptly discountenanced any such proceeding. 
They further informed me that buffalo were very scarce, and 
little or no grass to be found. There had been no rain, and 
innumerable quantities of grasshoppers had destroyed the 
grass. The insects had been so numerous since leaving Fort 
Laramie, that the ground seemed alive with them ; and in 
walking, a little moving cloud preceded our footsteps. This 
was bad news. No grass, no buffalo — food for neither horse 
nor man. I gave them some plugs of tobacco, and they went 
off, apparently well satisfied to be clear of us ; for my men 
did not look upon them very lovingly, and they glanced suspi- 
ciously at our warlike preparations, and the little ring of rifles 
which surrounded them. They were evidently in a bad hu- 
mor, and shot one of their horses when they had left us a 
short distance. 

We continued our march, and after a journey of about 
twenty-one miles, encamped on the Platte. During the day, 
I had occasionally remarked among the hills the psora/ea escu- 
lents, the bread root of tlie Indians. The Sioux use this root 
very extensively, and I have frequently met with it among 
them, cut into thin slices and dried. In the course of the 
evening we were visited by six Indians, who told us that a large 
party was encamped a few miles above. Astronomical obser- 
vations placed us in longitude 104° 59' 59'^, and latitude 
42° 29' '2b''. 

We made the next day twenty-two miles, and encamped on 
the right bank of the Platte, where a handsome meadow afford- 
ed tolerably good grass. There were the remains of an old 
fort here, thrown up in some sudden emergency, and on the 
opposite side was a picturesque bluff of ferruginous sandstone. 
There was a handsome grove a little above, and scattered 
groups of trees bordered the river. Buffalo made their ap- 
pearance this afternoon, and the hunters came in, shortly after 
we had encamped, with three fine cows. The night was fine, 
and observations gave for the latitude of the camp, 42° 47' 40''. 

2.'3th. — We made but thirteen miles this day, and encamped 



1842.] cAPT. Fremont's narrative. 73 

about noon in a pleasant grove on the right bank. Low scaf- 
folds were erected, upon which the meat was hiid, cut up into 
thin strips, and small fires kindled below. Our object was to 
profit by the vicinity of the buffalo, to lay in a stock of provi- 
sions for ten or fifteen days. In the course of the afternoon 
the hunters brought in five or six cows, and all hands were 
kept busily employed in preparing the meat, to the drying of 
which the guard attended during the night. Our people had 
recovered their gayety, and the busy figures around the bla- 
zing fires gave a picturesque air to the camp. A very serious 
accident occurred this morning, in the breaking of one of the 
barometers. These had been the object of my constant solici- 
tude, and, as I had intended them principally for mountain 
service, I had used them as seldom as possible, taking them 
always down at night, and on the occurrence of storms, in or- 
der to lessen the chances of being broken. I was reduced to 
one, a standard barometer of Troughton's construction. This 
I determined to preserve, if possible. The latitude is 42° 51' 
35^', and by a mean of the results from chronometer and 
lunar distances, the adopted longitude of this camp is 105° 
50' 45'^ 

26th. — Early this morning we were again in motion. We 
had a stock of provisions for fifteen days carefully stored away 
in the carts, and this I resolved should only be encroached 
upon when our rifles should fail to procure us present support. 
I determined to reach the mountains, if it were in any way 
possible. In the mean time, buffalo were plenty. In six 
miles from our encampment (which, by way of distinction, we 
shall call Dried Meat camp) we crossed a handsome stream, 
called La Fourche Boisce. It is well timbered, and, among 
the flowers in bloom on its banks, I remarked several asters. 

Five miles further, we made our noon halt on the banks of 
the Platte, in the shade of some cottonwoods. There were 
here, as generally now along the river, thickets of h'qypophz, 
the grains de ba^iif o( the country. They were of two kinds — 
one bearing a red berry, (the shepherdia argentea of Nuttall;) 
the other a yellow berry, of which the Tartars are said to 
make a kind of rob. 

7 



74 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

By a meridian observation, the latitude of the place was 42^ 
50^ 08'\ It was my daily practice to take observations of the 
sun's meridian altitude ; and why they are not given, will ap- 
pear in the sequel. Eight miles further we reached the mouth 
of Deer creek, where we encamped. Here was abundance 
of rich grass, and our animals were compensated for past pri- 
vations. This stream was at this time twenty feet broad, and 
well timbered with cottonwood of an uncommon size. It is 
the largest tributary of the Platte, between the mouth of the 
Sweet Water and the Laramie. Our astronomical observations 
gave for the mouth of tlie stream a longitude of lOb^ 08' 24''', 
and latitude 42° 52' 24'^ 

27th. — Nothing worthy of mention occurred on this day ; we 
traveled later than usual, having spent some time searching for 
grass, crossing and recrossing the river before we could find 
a sufficient quantity for our animals. Towards dusk we en- 
camped among some artemisia bushes, two and three feet in 
height, where some scattered patches of short tough grass af- 
forded a scanty supply. In crossing, we had occasion to ob- 
serve that the river was frequently too deep to be forded, 
though we always succeeded in finding a place where the wa- 
ter did not enter the carts. The stream continued very clear, 
with two or three hundred feet breadth of water, and the sandy 
bed and banks were frequently covered with large round peb- 
bles. We had traveled this day twenty-seven miles. The 
main chain of the Black hills was here only about seven miles 
to the south, on the right bank of the river, rising abruptly to 
the height of eight and twelve hundred feet. Patches of green 
grass in the ravines on the steep sides marked the presence of 
springs, and the summits were clad with pines. 

28th. — In two miles from our encampment, we reached the 
place where the regular road crosses the Platte. There was 
two hundred feet breadth of water at this time in the bed, 
which has a variable width of eight to fifteen hundred feet. 
The channels were generally three feet deep, ami there were 
large angular rocks on the l)ottom, which made the ford in 
some places a little dinicult. Kven at its low stages, this river 
cannot be crossed at random, and this has always been used 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's nakkative. 75 

as the best ford. Tlie low stage of the water the present year 
had made it fordable in almost any part of its course, where 
access could be had to its bed. 

For the satisfaction of travelers, I will endeavor to give some 
description of the nature of the road from Laramie to this 
point. The nature of the soil may be inferred from its geo- 
logical formation. The limestone at the eastern limit of this 
section is succeeded by limestone without fossils, a great va- 
riety of sandstone, consisting principally of red sandstone and 
fine conglomerates. The red sandstone is argillaceous, with 
compact white gypsum or alabaster, very beautiibl. The 
other sandstones are gray, yellow, and ferruginous, sometimes 
very coarse. The apparent sterility of the country must 
therefore be sought for in other causes than the nature of the 
soil. The face of the country cannot with propriety be called 
hilly. It is a succession of long ridges, made by the nu- 
merous streams which come down from the neighboring 
mountain range. The ridges have an undulating surface, 
with some such appearance as the ocean presents in an ordi- 
nary breeze. 

The road which is now generally followed through this re- 
gion is therefore a very good one, without any difficult ascents 
to overcome. The principal obstructions are near the river, 
where the transient waters of heavy rains have made deep ra- 
vines with steep banks, which I'enders frequent circuits neces- 
sary. It will be remembered that wagons pass this road only 
once or twice a year, which is by no means sutBcient to break 
down tlie stubborn roots of the innumerable artemisia bushes. 
A partial absence of these is often the only indication of the 
track ; and the roughness produced by their roots in many 
places gives the I'oad the character of one newly opened in a 
wooded country. This is usually considered the worst part of 
the road east of the mountains ; and, as it passes through an 
open prairie region, may be much improved, so as to avoid tiie 
greater part of the inequalities it now presents. 

From the mouth of the Kansas to the Green River valley, 
west of the mountains, there is no such thing as a mountain 
road on the line of communication. 



76 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

We continued our way, and four miles beyond the ford In- 
dians were discovered again ; and I halted while a party were 
sent forward to ascertain who they were. In a short time they 
returned, accompanied by a number of Indians of the Oglallah 
band of Sioux. From them we received some interesting in- 
formation. They had formed part of the great village, which 
they informed us had broken up, and was on its way liome. 
The greater part of the village,^ including the Arapahoes, 
Cheyennes, and Oglallahs, had crossed the Platte eight or ten 
miles below the mouth of the Sweet Water, and were now be- 
hind the mountains to the south of us, intending to regain the 
Platte by way of Deer creek. They had taken this unusual 
route in search of grass and game. They gave us a very 
discouraging picture of the country. The great drought, and 
the plague of grasshoppers, had swept it so that scarce a blade 
of grass was to be seen, and there was not a buffalo to be 
found in the whole region. Their people, they further said, 
had been nearly starved to death, and we would find their road 
marked by lodges, which they had thrown away in order to 
move more rapidly, and by the carcasses of the horses which 
they had eaten, or which had perished by starvation. Such 
was the prospect before us. 

When he had finished the interpretation of these things, Mr. 
Bissonette immediately rode up to me, and urgently advised 
that I should entirely abandon the further prosecution of my 
exploration. " Lc meillcitre avis que je pourrais voiis donner 
c'est de virer de suite." " The best advice I can give you, is 
to turn back at once." It was his own intention to return, as 
we had now reached the point to which he had engaged to at- 
tend me. In reply, I called up my men, and communicated 
to them fully the information I had just received. I then ex- 
pressed to them my fixed determination to proceed to the end 
of the enterprise on which I had been sent ; but as the situa- 
tion of the country gave me some reason to apprehend that it 
might be attended with an unfortunate result to some of us, I 
would leave it optional with them to continue with me or to 
return. 

Amonfj them were some five or six who I knew would re 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 77 

main. We had still ten days' provisions ; and should no game 
be found, when this stock was expended, we had our liorses 
and mules, which we could eat when other means of subsist- 
ence failed. But not a man flinched from the undertaking. 
'* We'll eat the mules," said Basil Lajeunesse ; and thereupon 
we shook hands with our interpreter and his Indians, and 
parted. With them I sent back one of my men, Dumcs, whom 
the effects of an old wound in the leg rendered incapable of 
continuing the journey on foot, and his horse seemed on the 
point of giving out. Having resolved to disencumber ourselves 
immediately of every thing not absolutely necessary to our fu- 
ture operations, 1 turned directly in towards the river, and 
encamped on the left bank, a little above the place where our 
council had been held, and where a thick grove of willows 
offered a suitable spot for the object I had in view. 

The carts having been discharged, the covers and wheels 
were taken off, and, with the frames, carried into some low 
places, among the willows, and concealed in the dense foliage in 
such a manner that the glitter of the iron-work might not attract 
the observation of some straggling Indian. In the sand, which 
had been blown up into waves among the willows, a large hole 
was then dug, ten feet square and six feet deep. In the mean 
time, all our effects had been spread out upon the ground, and 
whatever was designed to be carried along with us separated 
and laid aside, and the remaining part carried to the hole and 
carefully covered up. As much as possible, all traces of our 
proceedings were obliterated, and it wanted but a rain to ren- 
der our cache safe beyond discovery. All the men were 
now set at work to arrange the pack-saddles and make up the 
packs. 

The day was very wdrm and calm, and the sky entirely 
clear, except where, as usual along the summits of the moun- 
tainous ridge opposite, the clouds had congregated in masses. 
Our lodge had been planted, and, on account of the heat, the 
ground-pins had been taken out, and the lower part slightly 
raised. Near to it was standing the barometer, which swung 
in a tripod frame ; and within the lodge, where a small fire 
had been built, Mr. Preuss was occupied in observing the 

7* 



78 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jttly, 

temperature of boiling water. At this instant, and without 
any warning until it was within fifty yards, a violent gust of 
wind dashed down the lodge, burying under it Mr. Preuss and 
about a dozen men, who had attempted to keep it from "being 
carried away. I succeeded in saving the barometer, which 
the lodge was carrying off with itself, but the thermometer 
was broken. We had no others of a high graduation, none of 
those which remained going higher than 13.5° Fahrenheit. 
Our astronomical observations gave to this place, which we 
named Cache camp, a longitude of 106° 39' 26'^ latitude 42° 
50' 5S'\ 

29th. — All our arrangements having been completed, we 
left the encampment at 7 o'clock this morning. In this vi- 
cinity the ordinary road leaves the Platte, and crosses over to 
the Sweet Water river, which it strikes near Rock Indepen- 
dence. Instead of following this road, I had determined to 
keep the immediate valley of the Platte so far as the mouth 
of the Sweet Water, in the expectation of finding better grass. 
To this I was further prompted by the nature of my instruc- 
tions. To Mr. Carson was assigned the office of guide, as 
we had now reached a part of the country with which, or 
a great part of which, long residence had made him familiar. 
In a few miles we reached the Red Buttes, a famous land- 
mark in tliis country, whose geological composition is red sand- 
stone, limestone, and calcareous sandstone and pudding-stone. 

The river here cuts its way through a ridge ; on the eastern 
side of it are the lofty escarpments of red argillaceous sand- 
stone, which arc called the Red Buttes. In this passage the 
stream is not much compressed or pent up, there being a bank 
of considerable though variable breadth on either side. Im- 
mediately on entering, we discovered a band of buffalo. The 
hunters failed to kill any of them ; the leading hunter being 
thrown into a ravine, which occasioned some delay, and in the 
mean time the herd clambered up the steep face of the ridge. 
It is sometimes wonderful to see these apparently clumsy ani- 
mals make their way up and down the most broken precipices. 
We halted to noon before we had cleared this passage, at a 
spot twelve miles distant from Cache catnp, where we found 



1842.] CAPT. frehiont's narrative. 79 

an abundance of grass. So far, the account of the Indians 
was found to be false. On the banks were willow and cherry- 
trees. The cherries were not yet ripe, but in the thickets 
were numerous fresh tracks of the grizzly bear, which are 
very fond of this fruit. The soil here is red, the composition 
being derived from the red sandstone. About seven miles 
brought us through the ridge, in which the course of the river 
is north and south. Here the valley opens out broadly, and 
high walls of the red formation present themselves among the 
hills to the east. We crossed here a pretty little creek, an 
affluent of the right bank. It is well timbered with cotton- 
wood in this vicinity, and the absinthe has lost its shrub-like 
character, and becomes small trees six and eight feet in height, 
and sometimes eight inches in diameter. Two or three miles 
above this creek we made our encampment, having traveled 
to-day twenty-five miles. Our animals fared well here, as 
there is an abundance of grass. The river bed is made up 
of pebbles, and in the bank, at the level of the water, is a 
conglomerate of coarse pebbles, about the size of ostrich eggs, 
and which I remarked in the banks of the Laramie fork. It 
is overlaid by a soil of mixed clay and sand, six feet thick. 
By astronomical observations, our position is in longitude 106° 
54' 32'', and latitude 42° 38'. 

30th. — After traveling about twelve miles this morning, we 
reached a place where the Indian village had crossed the river. 
Here were the poles of discarded lodges and skeletons of 
horses lying about. Mr. Carson, who had never been higher 
up than this point on the river, which has the character of be- 
ing exceedingly rugged, and walled in by precipices above, 
thought it advisable to encamp near this place, where we were 
certain of obtaining grass, and to-morrow make our crossing 
amonij the rugsred hills to the Sweet Water river. According- 
ly we turned back and descended the river to an island near 
by, which was about twenty acres in size, covered with a 
luxuriant growth of grass. The formation here I found highly 
interesting. Immediately at this island the river is again shut 
up in the rugged hills, which come down to it from the main 
ridge in a succession of spurs three or four hundred feet high. 



80 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

and alternated with green level prairillons or meadows, bordered 
on the river banks with thickets of willow, and having many 
plants to interest the traveler. The island lies between two 
of these ridges, three or four hundred yards apart, of which 
that on the right bank is composed entirely of red argillaceous 
sandstone, with thin layers of fibrous gypsum. On the left 
bank, the ridge is composed entirely of silicious pudding-stone, 
the pebbles in the numerous strata increasing in size from the 
top to the bottom, where they are as large as a man's head- 
So far as I was able to determine, these strata incline to the 
northeast, with a dip of about 15°. This pudding-stone, or 
conglomerate formation, I was enabled to trace through an ex- 
tended range of country, from a few miles east of the meridian 
of Fort Laramie to where I found it superposed on tlie granite 
of the Rocky mountains, in longitude 109^ 00'. From its ap- 
pearance, the main chain of the Laramie mountain is composed 
of this rock ; and in a number of places I found isolated hills, 
which served to mark a former level which had been probably 
swept away. 

These conglomerates are very friable, and easily decom- 
posed ; and I am inclined to think this formation is the source 
from which was derived the great deposite of sand and gravel 
which forms tlie surface rock of the prairie country west of 
the Mississippi. 

Crossing the ridge of red sandstone, and traversing the little 
prairie which lies to the southward of it, we made in the after- 
noon an excursion to a place which we called the Hot Spring 
Gate. This place has much the appearance of a gate, by 
which the Platte passes through a ridge composed of a white 
and calcareous sandstone. The length of the passage is about 
four hundred yards, with a smooth green prairie on either 
side. Through this place, the stream flows with a quiet cur- 
rent, unbroken by any rapid, and is about seventy yards wide 
between tiio walls, which rise perpendicularly from the water. 
To that on the right bank, wliicl) is the lower, the barometer 
gave a height of three hundred and sixty feet. This place 
will be more particularly described hereafter, as we passed 
through it on our return. 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 81 

We saw here numerous herds of mountain sheep, and fre- 
quently heard the volley of rattling stones which accompanied 
their rapid descent down the steep hills. This was the first 
place at which we had killed any of these animals ; and, in 
consequence of this circumstance, and of the abundance of 
these sheep or goats, (for they are called by each name,) we 
gave our encampment the name of Goat Island. Their flesh 
is much esteemed by the hunters, and has very much the 
flavor of Alleghany mountain sheep. I have frequently seen 
the horns of this animal three feet long and seventeen inches 
in circumference at the base, weighing eleven pounds. But 
two or three of these were killed by our party at this place, 
and of these the horns were small. The use of these horns 
seems to be to protect the animal's head in pitching down pre- 
cipices to avoid pursuing wolves — their only safety being in 
places where they cannot be followed. The bones are very 
strong and solid, the marrow occupying but a very small por- 
tion of the bone in the leg, about the thickness of a rye straw. 
The hair is short, resembling the winter color of our common 
deer, which it nearly approaches in size and appearance. Ex- 
cept in the horns, it has no resemblance whatever to the goat. 
The longitude of this place, resulting from chronometer and 
lunar distances, and an occultation of Arietis, is 107° 13^ 29'^, 
and tlie latitude 42° 33' 27'''. One of our horses, which had 
given out, we left to receive strength on the island, intending 
to take her, perhaps, on our return. 

' 31st. — This morning we left the course of the Platte, to 
cross over to the Sweet Water. Our way, for a few miles, 
lay up the sandy bed of a dry creek, in which T found several 
interesting plants. Leaving this, we- wended our way to the 
summit of the hills, of which the peaks are here eight hundred 
feet above the Platte, bare and rocky. A long and gradual 
slope led from these hills to the Sweet Water, which we reached 
in fifteen miles from Goat Island. I made an early encamp- 
ment here, in order to give the hunters an opportunity to procure 
a supply from several bands of buffalo, which made their ap- 
pearance in the valley near by. The stream is about sixty 



82 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

feet wide, and at this time twelve to eighteen inches deep, with 
a very moderate current. 

The adjoining prairies are sandy, but the immediate river 
bottom is a good soil, which afforded an abundance of soft 
green grass to our horses, and where I found a variety of in- 
teresting plants, which made their appearance for the first 
time. A rain to-night made it unpleasantly cold ; and there 
was no tree here, to enable us to pitch our single tent, the 
poles of which had been left at our Cache camp. We had, 
therefore, no shelter except what was to be found under cover 
of the absinthe bushes, which grew in many thick patches, one 
or two and sometimes three feet high. 



AUGUST. 



1st. — The hunters went ahead this morning, as buffalo ap- 
peared tolerably abundant, and I was desirous to secure a 
small stock of provisions ; and we moved about seven miles 
up the valley, and encamped one mile below Rock Indepen- 
dence. This is an isolated granite rock, about six hundred 
and fifty yards long, and forty in height. Except in a depres- 
sion of the summit, where a little soil supports a scanty growth 
of shrubs, with a solitary dwarf pine, it is entirely bare. 
Everywhere within six or eight feel of the ground, where the 
surface is sufficiently smooth, and in some places sixty or 
eighty feet above, the rock is inscribed with the names of 
travelers. Many a name famous in the history of this country, 
and some well known to science, are to bo found mixed among 
those of the traders and travelers for pleasure and curiosity, 
and of missionaries among the savages. Some of these have 
been washed away by the rain, but the greater number are still 
very legible. The position of this rock is in longitude 107° 
.'jfi', latitude 42° 29' 36''. We remained at our camp of August 
1st until noon of the next day, occupied in drying meat. By 
observation, the longitude of the place is 107° 25' 23", latitude 
42° 29' .30". 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 83 

2d. — Five miles above Rock Independence we came to a 
place called the Devil's Gate, where the Sweet Water cuts 
through the point of a granite ridge. The length of the pas- 
sage is about three hundred yards, and the width thirty-five 
yards. The walls of rock are vertical, and about four hundred 
feet in height ; and the stream in the gate is almost entirely 
choked up by masses which have fallen from above. In the 
wall, on the right bank, is a dike of trap-rock, cutting through 
a fine-grained gray granite. Near the point of this ridge crop 
out some strata of the valley formation, consisting of a grayish 
micaceous sandstone, and fine-grained conglomerate, and marl. 
We encamped e.ight miles above the Devil's Gate. There 
was no timber of any kind on the river, but good fires were 
made of drift wood, aided by the bois de vache. 

We had to-night no shelter from the rain, which commenced 
with squalls of wind about sunset. The country here is ex- 
ceedingly picturesque. On either side of the valley, which is 
five miles broad, the mountains rise to the height of twelve 
and fifteen hundred or two thousand feet. On the south side, 
the range appears to be timbered, and to-night is luminous with 
fires — probably the work of the Indians, who have just passed 
through the valley. On the north, broken and granite masses 
rise abruptly from the green sward of the river, terminating in 
a line of broken summits. Except in the crevices of the rock, 
and here and there on a ledge or bench of the mountain, where 
a few hardy pines have clustered together, these are perfectly 
bare and destitute of vegetation. 

Among these masses, where there are sometimes isolated 
hills and ridges, green valleys open in upon the river, which 
sweeps the base of these mountains for thirty-six miles. 
Everywhere its deep verdure and profusion of beautiful 
flowers is in pleasing contrast with the sterile grandeur of the 
rock and the barrenness of the sandy plain, which, from the 
right bank of the river, sweeps up to the mountain range that 
forms its southern boundary. The great evaporation on the 
sandy soil of this elevated plain, and the saline efflorescences 
which whiten the ground, and shine like lakes reflecting in the 
sun, make a soil wholly unfit for cultivation. 



84 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

3d. — We were early on tlie road the next morning, travel- 
ing along the upper part of the valley, which is overgrown 
with arlemisia. Scattered about on the plain are occasional 
small isolated hills. One of these which I have examined, 
about fifty feet iiigh, consisted of white clay and marl, in 
nearly horizontal strata. Several bands of buffalo made their 
appearance to-day, with herds of antelope ; and a grizzly bear 
— the only one we encountered during the journey — was seen 
scrambling up among the rocks. As we passed over a slight 
rise near the river, we caught the first view of the Wind River 
mountains, appearing, at this distance of about seventy miles, 
to be a low and dark mountainous ridge. The view dissipated 
ill a moment the pictures which had been created in our minds, 
bv many descriptions of travelers,^ who have compared tiiese 
mountains to the Alps in Switzerland, and speak of the glit- 
tcring peaks which rise in icy majesty amidst the eternal 
irlaciers nine or ten thousand feet into the region of eternal 
snows. The nakedness of the river was relieved by groves 
of willows, where we encamped at night, after a march of 
twenty-six miles ; and numerous bright-colored flowers had 
made the river bottom look gay as a garden. We found here 
a horse, which had been abandoned by the Indians, because 
his hoofs had been so much worn that he was unable to travel ; 
and during the night a dog came into the camp. 

4th. — Our camp was at the foot of the granite mountains, 
which we climbed this morning to take some barometrical 
heights ; and here among the rocks was seen the first magpie. 
On our return, we saw one at the mouth of the Platto river. 
We left here one of our horses, which was unable to proceed 
farther. A few miles from the encampment we left the river, 
which makes a bend to the south, and traversing an undula- 
ting country, consisting of a grayish micaceous sandstone and 
fine-grained conglomerates, struck it again, and encamped 
after a journey of twentv-five miles. Astrnndmical observa- 
tions placed us in latitude 42° 32" 30'^ and longitude 108° 
30' 13'^ 

5th. — The morning was dark, with a driving rain, and 
disagreeably cold. We continued our route as usual ; but the 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 85 

weather became so bad, that we were glad to avail ourselves 
of the shelter offered by a small island, about ten miles above 
our last encampment, which was covered with a dense growth 
of willows. There was fine grass for our animals, and the 
timber afforded us comfortable protection and good fires. In 
the afternoon, the sun broke through the clouds for a short 
time, and the barometer at 5 p. m. was 23-713, the thermometer 
60°, with the wind strong from the northwest. We availed 
ourselves of the fine weather to make excursions in the neigh- 
borhood. The river, at this place, is bordered by hills of the 
valley formation. They are of moderate height ; one of the 
highest peaks on the right bank being, according to the barom- 
eter, one hundred and eighty feet above the river. On the 
left bank they are higher. They consist of a fine white clayey 
sandstone, a white calcareous sandstone, and coarse sandstone 
or pudding-stone. 

6th. — It continued steadily raining all day; but, notwith- 
standing, we left our encampment in the afternoon. Our ani- 
mals had been much refreshed by their repose, and an abun- 
dance of rich, soft grass, which had been much improved by 
the rains. In about three miles, we reached the entrance of a 
kamion, where the Sweet Water issues upon the more open 
valley we had passed over. Immediately at the entrance, and 
superimposed directly upon the granite, are strata of compact 
calcareous sandstone and chert, alternating with fine white and 
reddish-white, and fine gray and red sandstones. These strata 
dip to the eastward at an angle of about 18°, and form the western 
limit of the sandstone and limestone formations on the line of 
our route. Here we entered among the primitive rocks. The 
usual road passes to the right of this place ; but we wound, or 
rather scrambled, our way up the narrow valley for several 
hours. Wildness and disorder were the character of this 
scenery. The river had been swollen by the late rains, and 
came rushing through with an impetuous current, three or 
four feet deep, and generally twenty yards broad. The valley 
was sometimes the breadth of the stream, and sometimes 
opened into little green meadows, sixty yards wide, with open 
groves of aspen. The stream was bordered throughout with 

8 



86 CAPT. FREMONT S iNARRATIVE. [AUG. 

aspen, beecli,and willow ; and tall pines grew on the sides and 
summits of the crags. On both sides the granite rucks rose 
precipitously to the height of three hundred and five hundred 
feet, terminating in jagged and broken pointed peaks ; and 
fragments of fallen rock lay piled up at the foot of the preci- 
pices. Gneiss, mica slate, and a white granite, were among 
tiie varieties I noticed. Here were many old traces of beaver 
on the stream ; remnants of dams, near which were lying 
trees, which they had cut down, one and two feet in diameter. 
The hills entirely shut up the river at the end of about five 
miles, and we turned up a ravine that led to a high prairie, 
which seemed to be the general level of the country. Hence, 
to the suinmit of the ridge, tiiere is a regular and v»^ry gradual 
rise. Blocks of granite were piled up at the heads of the ra- 
vines, and small bare knolls of mica slate and njilky quartz 
protruded at frequent intervals on the prairie, which was 
whitened in occasional spots with small salt lakes, where the 
water had evaporated, and left the bed covered with a shining 
incrustation of salt. The evening was very cold, a northwest 
wind driving a fine rain in our faces; and at nightfall we de- 
scended to a little stream, on which we encamped, about two 
miles from the Sweet Water. Here had recently been a very 
large camp of the Snake and Crow Indians ; and some large 
poles lying about afforded the means of pitching a tent, and 
making other places of shelter. Our fires to-night were made 
principally of the dry branches of the artemisia, which covered 
the slopes. It burns quickly, and with a clear oily flame, and 
makes a hot fire. The hills here are composed of hard, com- 
pact mica slate, with veins of quartz. 

7th. — We left our encampment with the rising sun. As we 
rose from the bed of the creek, the snow line of the mountains 
.stretched gradually before us, the while peaks glittering in the 
sun. They had been hidden in the dark weather of the last 
few days, and it had been siwwiiig on them, while it rained in 
tho plains. We crossed a ridge, and again struck the Sweet 
Water — here a beautiful, swift stream, with a more open val- 
ley, timbered with beech and cottonwood. It now began to 
lose itself in the luaiw small forks which make its head ; and 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 87 

we continued up the main stream until near noon, when we 
left it a few miles, to make our noon halt on a small creek 
among the hills, from which the stream issues by a small open- 
ing. Within was a beautiful grassy spot, covered with an 
open grove of large beech-trees, among which I found several 
plants that I had not previously seen. 

The afternoon was cloudy, with squalls of rain ; but the 
weather became fine at sunset, when we again encamped on 
the Sweet Water, within a few miles of the South Pass. The 
country over which we have passed to-day consists principally 
of the compact mica slate, which crops out on all ridges, 
making the uplands very rocky and slaty. In the escarpments 
which border the creeks, it is seen alternating with a light- 
colored granite, at an inclination of 45° ; the beds varying in 
thickness from two or three feet to six or eight hundred. At 
a distance, the granite frequently has the appearance of irreg- 
ular lumps of clay, hardened by exposure. A variety of 
asters may now be numbered among the characteristic plants, 
and the artemisia continues in full glory ; but cacti have be- 
come rare, and mosses begin to dispute the hills with them. 
The evening was damp and unpleasant — the thermometer, at 
ten o'clock, being at 36°, and the grass wet with a heavy dew. 
Our astronomical observations placed this encampment in lon- 
gitude 109° 2r 32"^ and latitude 42° 27' \b'\ 

Early in the morning we resumed our journey, the weather 
still cloudy, with occasional rain. Our general course was 
west, as I had determined to cross the dividing ridge by a 
bridle-path among the country more immediately at the foot 
of the mountains, and return by the wagon road, two and a 
half miles to the south of the point where the trail crosses. 

About six miles from our encampment brought us to the 
summit. The ascent had been so gradual, that, with all the 
intimate knowledge possessed by Carson, who had made the 
country his home for seventeen years, we were obliged to watch 
very closely to find the place at which we had reached the 
culminating point. This was between two low hills, rising on 
either hand fifty or sixty feet. When I looked back at them, 
from the foot of the immediate slope on the western plain, their 



88 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

summits appeared to be about one hundred and twenty feet 
above. From the impression on my mind at this time, and sub- 
sequently on our return, I should compare the elevation which 
we surmounted immediately at the Pass, to the ascent of the 
Capitol hill from the avenue, at Washington. It is difficult 
for me to fix positively the breadth of this Pass. From the 
broken ground where it commences, at the foot of the Wind 
River chain, the view to the southeast is over a champaign 
country, broken, at the distance of nineteen miles, by the 
Table rock ; which, with the other isolated hills in its vicinity, 
seem to stand on a comparative plain. This 1 judged to be its 
termination, the ridge recovering its rugged character with the 
Table rock. It will be seen that it in no manner resembles the 
places to which the term is commonly applied — nothing of the 
gorge-like character and winding ascents of the Alleghany 
passes in America; nothing of the Great St. Bernard and 
Simplon passes in Europe. Approaching it from the mouth 
of the Sweet Water, a sandy plain, one hundred and twenty 
miles long, conducts, by a gradual and regular ascent, to the 
summit, about seven thousand feet above the sea ; and the 
traveler, without being reminded of any change by toilsome 
ascents, suddenly finds himself on the waters which flow to the 
Pacific ocean. By the route we had traveled, the distance 
from Fort Laramie is three hundred and twenty miles, or nine 
hundred and fifty from the mouth of the Kansas. 

Continuing our march, we reached, in eight miles from the 
Pass, the Little Sandy, one of the tributaries of the Colorado, 
or Green river of the Gulf of California. The weather had 
grown fine during the morning, and we remained here the rest 
of the day, to dry our baggage and take some astronomical 
observations. The stream was about forty feet wide, and two 
or throe deep, with clear water and a full swift current, over 
a sandy bed. It was timbered with a growth of low bushy and 
dense willows, among which were little verdant spots, which 
gave our animals fine grass, and where I found a number of 
interesting plants. Among the neighboring hills I noticed 
fragments of granite containing magnetic iron. Longitude of 
the camp was 109° 37' 59", and latitude 42° IT 34'^ 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 89 

9th. — We made our noon halt on Big, Sandy, another tribu- 
tary of Green river. The face of the country traversed was 
of a brown sand of granite materials, the detritus of the neigh- 
boring mountain. Strata of tiie milky quartz cropped out, and 
blocks of granite were scattered about, containing magnetic 
iron. On Sandy creek the formation was of parti-colored 
sand, exhibited in escarpments fifty to eighty feet high. In 
the afternoon we had a severe storm of hail, and encamped at 
sunset on the first New Fork. Within the space of a few 
miles, the Wind mountains supply a number of tributaries 
to Green river, which are called the New Forks. Near our 
camp were two remarkable isolated hills, one of them suffi- 
ciently large to merit the name of mountain. They are called 
the Two Buttes, and will serve to identify the place of our en- 
campment, which the observations of the evening placed in 
longitude 109° 58' IV, and latitude 42° 42' 46''. On the 
right bank of the stream, opposite to the large hill, the strata 
which are displayed consist of decomposing granite, which 
supplies the brown sand of which the face of the country is 
composed to a considerable depth. 

10th. — The air at sunrise is clear and pure, and the morning 
extremely cold, but beautiful. A lofty snowy peak of the moun- 
tain is glittering in the first rays of the sun, which have not 
yet reached us. The long mountain wall to the east, rising 
two thousand feet abruptly from the plain, behind which we 
see the peaks, is still dark, and cuts clear against the glowing 
sky. A fog, just risen from the river, lies along the base of 
the mountain. A little before sunrise, the thermometer was 
at 35°, and at sunrise 33°. Water froze last night, and fires 
are very comfortable. The scenery becomes hourly more in- 
teresting and grand, and the view here is truly magnificent ; 
but, indeed, it needs something to repav the long prairie jour- 
ney of a thousand miles. Tiie sun has shot above the wall, 
and makes a magical change. The whole valley is glowing 
and bright, and all the mountain peaks are gleaming like siU 
ver. Though these snow mountains are not the Alps, they 
have their own character of grandeur and magnificence, and 
doubtless will find pens and pencils to do them justice. In 

8* 



90 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

the scene before us, we feel how nvuch wood improves a view. 
The pines on the mountain seemed to give it much additional 
beauty. I was agreeably disappointed in the character of the 
streams on this side of the ridge. Instead of the creeks, which 
description had led me to expect, I find bold, broad streams, 
Avith three or four feet water, and a rapid current. The fork 
on which we are encamped is upwards of a hundred feet wide, 
timbered with groves or thickets of the low willow. We 
were now approaching the loftiest part of the Wind River 
chain ; and I left the valley a few miles from our encamp- 
ment, intending to penetrate the mountains as far as possible 
with the whole party. We were soon involved in very broken 
ground, among long ridges covered with fragments of granite. 
Winding our way up a long ravine, we came unexpectedly in 
view of a most beautiful lake, set like a gem in the mountains. 
The sheet of water lay transversely across the direction we 
had been pursuing ; and, descending the steep, rocky ridge, 
where it was necessary to lead our horses, we followed its 
banks to the southern extremity. Here a view of the utmost 
magnificence and grandeur burst upon our eyes. With noth- 
ing between us and their feet to lessen the effect of the whole 
height, a grand bed of snow-capped mountains rose before us, 
pile upon pile, glowing in the bright light of an August day. 
Immediately below them lay the lake, between two ridges, cov- 
ered with dark pines, which swept down from the main chain 
to the spot where we stood. Here, where tlie lake glittered in 
the open sunlight, its banks of yellow sand and the light foli- 
age of aspen groves contrasted well witii the gloomy pines. 
" Never before," said Mr. Preuss, " in this country or in 
Europe, have I seen such grand, magnificent rocks." I was 
so mucii pleased with tlie beauty of the place, that I determined 
to make the main camp here, where our animals would find 
good pasturage, and explore the mountains witli a small party 
of men. Proceeding a little further, we came suddenly upon 
the outlet of the lake, where it found its way through a nar- 
row j)a.ssage between low hills. Dark pines which overhung 
the stream, and massc-s of rock, wiiere tiie water foamed along, 
gave it much romantic beauty. Where we crossed, which 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 91 

was immediately at the outlet, it is two hundred and fifty feet 
wide, and so deep that with dilficully we were able to ford it. 
Its bed was an accumulation of rocks, boulders, and broad slabs, 
and large angular fragments, among which the animals fell 
repeatedly. 

The current was very swift, and the water cold, and of a 
crystal purity. In crossing this stream, I met with a great 
misfortune in having my barometer broken. It was the only 
one. A great part of the interest of the journey for me was 
in the exploration of these mountains, of which so much had 
been said that was doubtful and contradictory ; and now their 
snowy peaks rose majestically before me, and the only means 
of giving them authentically to science, the object of my anx- 
ious solicitude by night and day, was destroyed. We had 
brought this barometer in safety a thousand miles, and broke 
it almost among the snow of the nflbuntains. The loss was felt 
by the whole camp — all had seen my anxiety, and aidbd me 
in preserving it. The height of these mountains, considered 
by many hunters and traders the highest in the whole range, 
had been a theme of constant discussion among them ; and all 
had looked forward with pleasure to the moment when the in- 
strument, which they believed to be as true as the sun, should 
stand upon the summits, and decide their disputes. Their 
grief was only inferior to my own. 

The lake is about three miles long, and of very irregular 
width, and apparently great depth, and is the head-water of 
the tliird New Fork, a tributary to Green river, the Colorado 
of the west. In the narrative I have called it Mountain lake. I 
encamped on the north side, about three hundred and fifty 
yards from the outlet. This was the most western point at 
which I obtained astronomical observations, by which this 
place, called Bernier's encampment, is made in 110^ 08^ 03^^ 
west longitude from Greenwich, and latitude 43^ 49^ 49'''. 
The mountain peaks, as laid down, were fixed by bearings 
from this and other astronomical points. We had no other 
compass than the small ones used in sketching the country ; 
but from an azinmth, in which one of them was used, the va- 
riation of the compass is 18° east. The correction made in 



92 CAPT. fbemont's narrative. [Aug. 

our field-work by the astronomical observations indicates that 
this is a very correct observation. 

As soon as the camp was formed, I set about endeavoring to 
repair my barometer. As I have already said, this was a 
standard cistern barometer, of Troughton's construction. The 
glass cistern had been broken about midway ; but as the in- 
strument had been kept in a proper position, no air had found 
its way into the tube, the end of which had always remained 
covered. I had with me a number of vials of tolerably thick 
"lass, some of which were of the same diameter as the cistern, 
and I spent the day in slowly working on these, endeavoring 
to cut them of the requisite length ; but, as my instrument was 
a very rough file, I invariably broke them. A groove was 
cut in one of the trees, where the barometer was placed during 
the night, to be out of the way of any possible danger, and in 
the morning I commenced again. Among the powder-horns 
in the camp, I found one which was very transparent, so that 
its contents could be almost as plainly seen as through glass. 
This I boiled and stretched on a piece of wood to the requisite 
diameter, and scraped it very thin, in order to increase to the 
utmost its transparency. I then secured it firmly in its place 
on the instrument, with strong glue made from a bulfalo, and 
filled it with mercury, properly heated. A piece of skin, 
which had covered one of the vials, furnished a good pocket, 
which was well secured with strong thread and glue, and then 
the brass cover was screwed to its place. The instrument 
was left some time to dry ; and when I reversed it, a few 
hours after, I had the satisfaction to find it in perfect order ; 
its indications being about the same as on the other side of the 
lake before it had been broken. Our success in this little 
incident ditruscd pleasure throughout the camp ; and we im- 
mediately set about our preparations for ascending the moun- 
tains. 

As will be seen on reference to a map. on this short moun- 
tain chain are the head-waters of four great rivers on the con- 
tinent, nnmely : tlie Colorado, Columbia, Missouri, and Platte 
rivers. It had been my design, after ascending the mountains, 
to continue our route on the western side of the range, and 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 93 

crossing through a pass at the northwestern end of the chain, 
about thirty miles from our present camp, return along the 
eastern slope, across the heads of the Yellowstone river, and 
join on the line to our station of August 7, immediately at the 
foot of the ridge. In this way, I should be enabled to include 
the whole chain, and its numerous waters, in my survey ; but 
various considerations induced me, very reluctantly, to aban- 
don this plan. 

I was desirous to keep strictly within the scope of my in- 
structions, and it would have required ten or fifteen additional 
days for the accomplishment of this object ; our animals had 
become very much worn out with the length of the journey ; 
game was very scarce ; and, though it does not appear in the 
course of the narrative, (as I have avoided dwelling upon tri- 
fling incidents not connected with the objects of the expedition,) 
the spirits of the men had been much exhausted by the hardships 
and privations to which they had been subjected. Our provisions 
had wellnigh all disappeared. Bread had been long out of the 
question ; and of all our stock, we had remaining two or three 
pounds of coffee, and a small quantity of macaroni, which had 
been husbanded with great care for the mountain expedition 
we were about to undertake. Our daily meal consisted of dry 
buffalo meat, cooked in tallow ; and, as we had not dried this 
with Indian skill, part of it was spoiled ; and what remained 
of good, was as hard as wood, having much the taste and ap- 
pearance of so many pieces of bark. Even of this, our stock 
was rapidly diminishing in a camp which was capable of con- 
suming two buffaloes in every twenty-four hours. These ani- 
mals had entirely disappeared ; and it was not probable that 
we should fall in with them again until we returned to the 
Sweet Water. 

Our arrangements for the ascent were rapidly completed. 
We were in a hostile country, which rendered the greatest 
vigilance and circumspection necessary. The pass at the 
north end of the mountain was greatly infested by Blackfeet, 
and immediately opposite was one of their forts, on the edge of 
a little thicket, two or three hundred feet from our encamp- 
ment. We were posted in a grove of beech, on the margin of 



94 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 



« 



the lake, and a few hundred feet long, with a narrow prairillon 
on the inner side, bordered by the rocky ridge. In the upper 
end of this grove we cleared a circular space about forty feet 
in diameter, and, with the felled timber, and interwoven 
branches, surrounded it with a breastwork five feet in height. 
A gap was left for a gate on the inner side, by which the ani- 
mals were to be driven in and secured, while the men slept 
around the little work. It was half hidden by the foliage, and 
garrisoned by twelve resolute men, would have set at defiance 
any band of savages which might chance to discover them in 
the interval of our absence. Fifteen of the best mules, with 
fourteen men, were selected for the mountain party. Our pro- 
visions consisted of dried meat for two days, with our little 
stock of coffee and some macaroni. In addition to the ba- 
rometer and thermometer, I took with me a sextant and spy- 
glass, and we had of course our compasses. In charge of the 
camp I left Bernier, one of my most trustworthy men, who 
possessed the most determined courage. 

12th. — Early in the morning we left the camp, fifteen in 
number, well armed, of course, and mounted on our best 
mules. A pack-animal carried our provisions, with a coffee- 
pot and kettle, and three or four tin cups. Every man had a 
blanket strapped over his saddle, to serve for his bed, and the 
instruments were carried by turns on their backs. We enter- 
ed directly on rough and rocky ground ; and, just after cross- 
ing the ridge, had the good fortune to shoot an antelope. We 
heard the roar, and had a glimpse of a waterfall as we rode 
along, and, crossing in our way two fine streams, tributary to 
the Colorado, in about two hours' ride we reached the top of 
the first row or range of the mountains. Here, again, a view 
of the most romantic beauty met our eyes. It seemed as if, 
from the vast expanse of uninteresting prairie we had passed 
over. Nature had collected all her beauties together in one 
chosen place. We were overlooking a deep valley, which was 
entirely occupied by three lakes, and from the brink to the 
surrounding ridges ro.se precipitously five hundred and a thou- 
sand feet, covered with the dark green of the balsam pine, re- 
lieved on the Ix)rdor of the lako with thr licrlit foliage of the 



1842.] CAPT. fhemont's narrative. 95 

aspen. They all communicated with each other, and the 
green of the waters, common to mountain lakes of great depth, 
showed that it would be impossible to cross them. The sur- 
prise manifested by our guides when these impassable obsta- 
cles suddenly barred our progress, proved that they were 
among the hidden treasures of the place, unknown even to the 
wandering trappers of the region. Descending the hill, we 
proceeded to make our way along the margin to the southern 
extremity. A narrow strip of angular fragments of rock 
sometimes afforded a rough pathway for our mules, but gener- 
ally wo rode along the shelving side, occasionally scrambling 
up, at a considerable risk of tumbling back into the lake. 

The slope was frequently 60° ; the pines grew densely to- 
gether, and the ground was covered with the branches and 
trunks of trees. The air was fragrant with the odor of the 
pines ; and I realized this delightful morning the pleasure of 
breathing that mountain air which makes a constant theme of 
the hunter's praise, and which now made us feel as if we had 
all been drinking some exhilarating gas. The depths of this 
unexplored forest were a place to delight the heart of a bota- 
nist. There was a rich undergrowth of plants, and numerous 
gay-colored flowers in brilliant bloom. We reached the out- 
let at length, where some freshly-barked willows that lay in 
the water showed that beaver had been recently at work. 
There were some small brown squirrels jumping about in the 
pines, and a couple of large mallard ducks swimming about in 
the stream. 

The hills on this southern end were low, and the lake look- 
ed like a mimic sea, as the waves broke on the sandy beach in 
the force of a strong breeze. There was a pretty open spot, 
with fine grass for our mules ; and we made our noon halt on 
the beach, under the shade of some large hemlocks. We re- 
sumed our journey after a halt of about an hour, making our 
way up the ridge on the western side of the lake. In search 
of smoother ground, we rode a little inland ; and, passing 
through groves of aspen, soon found ourselves again among 
the pines. Emerging from these, we struck the summit of the 
ridge above the upper end of the lake. 



96 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

We had reached a very elevated point, and in the valley be- 
low, and among the hills, were a number of lakes of ditferent 
levels ; some two or three hundred feet above others, with 
which they communicated by foaming torrents. Even to our 
great height the roar of the cataracts came up, and we could 
see them leaping down in lines of snowy foam. From this 
scene of busy waters, we turned abruptly into the stillness of 
a forest, where we rode among the open bolls of the pines, over 
a lawn of verdant grass, having strikingly the air of cultivated 
grounds. This led us, after a time, among masses of rock, 
which had no vegetable earth but in hollows and crevices, 
though still the pine forest continued. Towards evening we 
reached a defile, or rather a hole in the mountains, entirely 
shut in by dark pine-covered rocks. 

A small stream, with scarcely perceptible current, flowed 
through a level bottom of perhaps eighty yards width, where 
the grass was saturated with water. Into this the mules were 
turned, and were neither hobbled nor picketed during the 
night, as the fine pasturage took away all temptation to stray ; 
and we made our bivouac in the pines. The surrounding 
masses were all of granite. While supper was being pre- 
pared, I set out on an excursion in the neighborhood, accom- 
panied by one of my men. We wandered about among the 
crags and ravines until dark, richly repaid for our walk by a 
fine collection of plants, many of them in full bloom. Ascend- 
ing a peak to find the place of our camp, we saw that the little 
defile in which we lay communicated with the long green val- 
ley of some stream, \vhich, here locked up in the mountains, 
far away to the south, found its way in a dense forest to the 
plains. 

Looking along its upward course, it seemed to conduct, by a 
smooth gradual slope, directly towards the peak, which, from 
long consultation as we approached the mountain, we had de- 
cided to be the highest of the range. Pleased with the dis- 
covery of so fine a road for the next day, we hastened down to 
the camp, where we arrived just in time for supper. Our 
table-service was rather scant ; and we held the meat in our 
hands, and clean rocks made good plates, on which we spread 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 97 

our macaroni. Among all the strange places on which we 
had occasion to encamp during our long journey, none have left 
so vivid an impression on my mind as the camp of this even- 
ing. The disorder of the masses which surrounded us — the 
little hole through which we saw the stars over head — the dark 
pines where we slept — and the rocks lit up with the gloM" of 
our fires, made a night-picture of very wild beauty. 

13th. — The morning was bright and pleasant, just cool 
enough to make exercise agreeable, and we soon entered tiie 
defile I had seen the preceding day. It was smoothly carpeted 
with soft grass, and scattered over with groups of flowers, of 
which yellow was the predominant color. Sometimes we were 
forced, by an occasional difficult pass, to pick our way on a 
narrow ledge along the side of the defile, and the mules were 
frequently on their knees ; but these obstructions were rare, 
and we journeyed on in the sweet morning air, delighted at 
our good fortune in having found such a beautiful entrance to 
the mountains. This road continued for about three miles, 
when we suddenly reached its termination in one of the grand 
views which, at every turn, meet the traveler in this magniii- 
cent region. Here the defile up which we had traveled open- 
ed out into a small lawn, where, in a little lake, the stream 
had its source. 

There were some fine asters in bloom, but all the flowering 
plants appeared to seek the shelter of the rocks, and to be of 
lower growth than below, as if they loved the warmth of the 
soil, and kept out of the way of the winds. Immediately at 
our feet, a precipitous descent led to a confusion of defiles, and 
before us rose the mountains, as we have represented them in 
the annexed view. It is not by the splendor of far-off" views, 
which have lent such a glory to the Alps, that these impress 
the mind ; but by a gigantic disorder of enormous masses, and 
a savage sublimity of naked rock, in wonderful contrast with 
innumerable green spots of a rich floral beauty, shut up in 
their stern recesses. Their wildness seems well suited to 
the character of the people who inhabit the country. 

I determined to leave our animals here, and make the rest 
of our way on foot. The peak appeared so near, that there 

9 



98 CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVt:. [ACG. 

was no doubt of our returning before night ; and a few men 
were left in charge of the mules, with our provisions and 
blankets. We took with us nothing but our arms and instru- 
ments, and, as the day had become warm, the greater pari 
left our coats. Having made an early dinner, we started 
again. We were soon involved in the most ragged precipices, 
nearing the central chain very slowly, and rising but little. 
The first ridge hid a succession of others ; and when, with 
great fatigue and difficulty, we had climbed up five hundred 
feet, it was but to make an equal descent on the other side ; 
all these intervening places wore filled with small deep lakes, 
which met the eye in every direction, descending from one 
level to another, sometimes under bridges formed by huge 
fragments of granite, beneath which was heard the roar of the 
water. These constantly obstructed our path, forcing us to 
make long detours; frequently obliged to retrace our steps, 
and frequently falling among the rocks. Maxwell was pre- 
cipitated towards the face of a precipice, and saved himself 
from going over by throwing himself flat on the ground. We 
clambered on, always expecting, with every ridge that we 
crossed, to reach the foot of the peaks, and always disappointed, 
until about four o'clock, when, pretty well worn out, we 
reached the shore of a little lake, in which was a rocky island. 
We remained here a short time to rest, and continued on 
around the lake, which had in some places a beach of white 
sand, and in others was bound with rocks, over which tiie way 
was difficult and dangerous, as the water from innumerable 
springs made them very slippery. 

By the time we had reached the further side of the lake, we 
found ourselves all exceedingly fatigued, and, much to the 
satisfaction of tlie whole party, we encamped. The spot we 
had chosen was a broad flat rock, in some measure protected 
from the winds by the surrounding crags, and the trunks of 
fallen pines aflbrded us bright fires. Near by was a foaming 
torrent, wliich tumbled into the little lake about one hundred 
and fifty feet below us, and v.hicii, by way of distinction, we 
have called Island lake. ^Ve had reached the upper limit of 
the piney region ; as, above this point, no tree was to be seen, 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 99 

and patches of snow lay everywhere around us, on the cold 
sides of the rocks. The flora of the region we had traversed 
since leaving our mules was extremely rich, and, among the 
characteristic plants, the scarlet flowers of the dodecatheon den- 
tahivi everywhere met the eye, in great abundance. A small 
green ravine, on the edge of which we were encamped, was 
filled with a profusion of alpine plants, in brilliant bloom. 
From barometrical observations, made during our three days' 
sojourn at this place, its elevation above the Gulf of Mexico is 
10,000 feet. During the day, we had seen no sign of animal 
life ; but among the rocks here, we heard what was supposed 
to be the bleat of a young goat, which we searched for with 
hungry activity, and found to proceed from a small animal of 
a gray color, with short ears and no tail — probably the Sibe- 
rian squirrel. We saw a considerable number of them, and, 
with the exception of a small bird like a sparrow, it is the only 
inhabitant of this elevated part of the mountains. On our 
return, we saw, below this lake, large flocks of the mountain- 
goat. We had nothing to eat to-night. Lajeunesse, with 
several others, took their guns, and sallied out in search of a 
goat ; but returned unsuccessful. At sunset, the barometer 
stood at 20-522 ; the attached thermometer 50°. Here we 
had the misfortune to break our thermometer, having now only 
that attached to the barometer. I was taken ill shortly after 
we had encamped, and continued so initil late in the night, 
with violent headache and vomiting. This was probably 
caused by the excessive fatigue I had undergone, and want of 
food, and perhaps, also, in some measure, by the rarity of the 
air. The night was cold, as a violent gale from the north had 
sprung up at sunset, which entirely blew away the heat of the 
fires. The cold, and our granite beds, had not been favorable 
to sleep, and we were glad to see the face of the sun in the 
morning. Not being delayed by any preparation for break- 
fast, we set out immediately. 

On every side, as we advanced, was heard the roar of waters, 
and of a torrent, which we" followed up a short distance, until 
it expanded into a lake about one mile in length. On the 
northern side of the lake was a bank of ice, or rather of snow 



100 cAi'T. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

covered with a crust of ice. Carson had been our guide into 
the mountains, and, agreeably to his advice, we left this little 
valley, and took to the ridges again, which we found ex- 
tremely broken, and where we were again involved among 
precipices. Here were ice-fields ; among which we were all 
dispersed, seeking each the best path to ascend the peak. 
Mr. Preuss attempted to walk along the upper edge of one of 
these fields, which sloped away at an angle of about twenty 
degrees ; but his feet slipped from under him, and he went 
plunging down the plain. A few hundred feet below, at 
the bottom, were some fragments of sharp rock, on which he 
landed'; and, though he turned a couple of somersets, fortu- 
nately received no injury beyond a few bruises. Two of the 
men, Clement Lambert and Descoteaux, had been taken ill, 
and lay down on the rocks, a short distance below ; and at this 
point I was attacked with headache and giddiness, accompanied 
by vomiting, as on the day before. Finding myself unable to 
proceed, I sent the barometer over to Mr. Preuss, who was in 
a gap two or three hundred yards distant, desiring him to reach 
the peak if possible, and take an observation there. He found 
himself unable to proceed further in that direction, and took an 
observation, where the barometer stood at 19*401 ; attached ther- 
mometer 50°, in the gap. Carson, who had gone over to him, 
succeeded in reaching one of the snowy summits of the main 
ridge, whence he saw the peak towards which all our efforts 
had been directed, towering eight or ten hundred feet into the 
air above him. In the mean time, finding myself grow rather 
worse than better, and doubtful how far my strength would 
carry me, I sent Basil Lajeunessc, with four men, back to the 
place where the mules had been left. 

We were now better acquainted with the topography of the 
country, and I directed him to bring back with him, if it were 
in any way possible, four or five mules, with provisions and 
blankets. Willi nie were Maxwell and Aver; and after we 
had remained nearly an hour on the rock, it became so un- 
pleasantly cold, though the day was bright, that we set out on 
our return to the camp, at which we all arrived safely, strag- 
gling in one after the other. I continued ill during the after- 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 101 

noon, but became better towards sundown, when my recovery- 
was completed by the appearance of Basil and four men, all 
mounted. The men who had gone with him had been too 
much fatigued to return, and were relieved by those in charge 
of the horses; but in his powers of endurance Basil resembled 
more a mountain-goat than a man. They brought blankets 
and provisions, and we enjoyed well our dried meat and a cup 
of good coffee. We rolled ourselves up in our blankets, and, 
with our feet turned to a blazing fire, slept soundly until 
morning. 

loth. — It had been supposed that we had finished with the 
mountains ; and the evening before it had been arranged that 
Carson should set out at daylight, and return to breakfast at 
the Camp of the Mules, taking with him all but four or five 
men, who were to stay with me and bring back the mules and 
instruments. Accordingly, at the break of day they set out. 
With Mr. Preuss and myself remained Basil Lajeunesse, Clem- 
ent Lambert, Janisse, and Descoteaux. When we had se- 
cured strength for the day by a hearty breakfast, we covered 
what remained,' which was enough for one meal, with rocks, 
in order that it might be safe from any marauding bird, and, 
saddling our mules, turned our faces once more towards the 
peaks. This time we determined to proceed quietly and 
cautiously, deliberately resolved to accomplish our object if it 
were within the compass of human means. We were of opin- 
ion that a long defile which lay to the left of yesterday's route 
would lead us to the foot of the main peak. Our mules had 
been refreshed by the fine grass in the little ravine at the 
Island camp, and we intended to ride up the defile as far as 
possible, in order to husband our strength for the main ascent. 
Though this was a fine passage, still it was a defile of the most 
rugged mountains known, and we had many a rough and steep 
slippery place to cross before reaching the end. In this place 
the sun rarely shone ; snow lay along the border of the small 
stream which flowed through it, and occasional icy passages 
made the footing of the mules very insecure, and the rocks 
and ground were moist with the trickling waters in this spring 
of mighty rivers. We soon had the satisfaction to find our- 

9=^ 



102 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

selves riding along the huge wall which forms the central 
summits of the chain. There at last it rose by our sides, a 
nearly perpendicular wall of granite, terminating 2,000 to 
3,000 feet above our heads in a serrated line of broken, jagged 
cones. We rode on until we came almost immediately below 
the main peak, which I denominated the Snow peak, as it ex- 
hibited more snow to the eye than any of the neighboring sum- 
mits. Here were three small lakes of a green color, each, 
perhaps, of a thousand yards in diameter, and apparently very 
deep. These lay in a kind of chasm ; and, according to the 
barometer, we had attained but a few hundred feet above the 
Island lake. The barometer here stood at 20'450, attached 
thermometer 70^. 

We managed to get our mules up to a little bench about a 
hundred feet above the lakes, where there was a patch of good 
grass, and turned them loose to graze. During our rough ride 
to this place, they had exhibited a wonderful surefootedness. 
Parts of the defile were filled with angular, sharp fragments 
of rock, three or four and eight or ten feet cube ; and among 
these they had worked their way, leaping from one narrow 
point to another, rarely making a false step, and giving us no 
occasion to dismount. Having divested ourselves of every 
unnecessary encumbrance, we commenced the ascent. This 
time, like experienced travelers, we did not press ourselves, 
but climbed leisurely, sitting down so soon as we found breath 
beginning to fail. At intervals we reached places wiiere a 
number of springs gushed from the rocks, and about 1800 feet 
above the lakes came to the snow line. From this point our pro- 
gress was uninterrupted climbing. Hitherto I had worn a 
pair of thick moccasins, with soles of parfli'chc, but here I put 
on a liglit, thin pair, which I had brought for the purpose, as 
now the use of our toes became necessary to a further ad- 
vance. I availed myself of a sort of comb of the mountain, 
which stood against the wall like a buttress, and which the 
wind and the solar radiation, joined to the steepness of the 
smooth rock, had kept almost entirely free from snow. Up 
this I made my way rapidly. Our cautious method of ad- 
vancing at the outset had spared my strength ; and, with the 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 103 

exception of a slight disposition to headache, I felt no remains 
of yesterday's illness. In a few minutes we reached a point 
where the buttress was overhanging, and there was no other 
way of surmounting the difficulty than by passing around one 
side of it, which was the face of a vertical precipice of several 
hundred feet. 

Putting hands and feet in the crevices between the blocks, I 
succeeded in getting over it, and, when I reached the top, 
found my companions in a small valley below. Descending 
to them, we continued climbing, and in a short time reached 
the crest. I sprang upon the summit, and another step would 
have precipitated me into an immense snow-field five hundred 
feet below. To the edge of this field was a sheer icy preci- 
pice ; and then, with a gradual fall, the field sloped off for 
about a mile, until it struck the foot of another lower ridge. 
I stood on a narrow crest, about three feet in width, with an 
inclination of about 20'^ N. 51° E. As soon as I had gratified 
the first feelings of curiosity, I descended, and each man as- 
cended in his turn ; for I would only allow one at a time to 
mount the unstable and precarious slab, which it seemed a 
breath would hurl into the abyss below. We mounted the 
barometer in the snow of the summit, and, fixing a ramrod in 
a crevice, unfurled the national flag to wave in the breeze 
where never flag waved before. During our morning's ascent, 
we had met no sign of animal life, except the small sparrow- 
like bird already mentioned. A stillness the most profound 
and a terrible solitude forced themselves constantly on the 
mind as the great features of the place. Here, on the sum- 
mit, whei'e the stillness was absolute, unbroken by any sound, 
and solitude complete, we thought ourselves beyond the region 
of animated life ; but while we were sitting on the rock, a 
solitary bee (bromus, the humble-bee) came winging his flight 
from the eastern valley, and lit on the knee of one of the 
men. 

It was a strange place, the icy rock and the highest peak 
of the Rocky mountains, for a lover of warm sunshine and 
flowers ; and we pleased ourselves with the idea that he was 
the first of his species to cross the mountain barrier — a solitary 



104 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

oioneer to foretell the advance of civilization. 1 believe that 
a moment's thought would have made us let him continue his 
way unharmed ; but we carried out the law of this country, 
where all animated nature seems at war; and, seizing him 
immediately, put him in at least a fit place — in the leaves of a 
large book, among the flowers we had collected on our way. 
The barometer stood at 18-293, the attached thermometer at 
44° ; giving for the elevation of this summit 13, -570 feet above 
the Gulf of Mexico, which may be called the highest flight 
of the bee. It is certainly the highest known flight of that 
insect. From the description given by Mackenzie of the 
mountains where he crossed them, with that of a French 
officer still farther to the north, and Colonel Long's measure- 
ments to the south, joined to the opinion of the oldest traders 
of the country, it is presumed that this is the highest peak of 
the Rocky mountains. The day was sunny and bright, but a 
slight shining mist hung over the lower plains, which interfered 
with our view of the surrounding country. On one side we 
overlooked innumerable lakes and streams, the spring of the 
Colorado of the Gulf of California ; and on the other was the 
Wind River valley, where were the heads of the Yellowstone 
branch of the Missouri ; far to the north, we could just dis- 
cover the snowy heads of the Trois Telons, where were the 
sources of the Missouri and Columbia rivers; and at the 
southern extremity of the ridge, the peaks were plainly visible, 
among which were some of the springs of the Nebraska or 
Platte river. Around us, the whole scene had one main, 
striking feature, which was tliat of terrible convulsion. Paral- 
lei to its loiigth, the ridge was split into chasms and fissures; 
between which rose the thin lofty walls, terminated with slender 
minarets and columns. According to the baromt-tcr, the little 
crest of the wall on which we stood was three thousand five 
hundriMl and seventy feet above that place, and two thousand 
seven hundred and eighty above the little lakes at the bottom, 
immediately at our feet. Our camp at the Two Hills (an as- 
tronomical station) bore south 3° east, which, with a bearing 
afterwards obtained from a fixed position, enabled us to locate 
the peak. The bearing of the Trois Tetons was north 50<^ 



1842.] CAPT. fkemont's narrative. 105 

west, and the direction of the central ridge of the Wind River 
mountains south 39° east. The summit rock was gneiss, suc- 
ceeded by sienitic gneiss. Sienite and feldspar succeeded in 
our descent to the snow line, where we found a feldspathic 
granite. I had remarked that the noise produced by the ex- 
plosion of our pistols had the usual degree of loudness, but 
was not in the least prolonged, expiring almost instanta- 
neously. 

Having now made what observations our means afforded, we 
proceeded to descend. We had accomplished an object of 
laudable ambition, and beyond the strict order of our instruc- 
tions. We had climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky moun- 
tains, and looked down upon the snow a thousand feet below ; 
and, standing where never human foot had stood before, felt 
the exultation of first explorers. It was about two o'clock 
when we left the summit, and when we reached the bottom, the 
sun had already sunk behind the wall, and the day was draw- 
ing to a close. It would have been pleasant to have lingered 
here and on the summit longer ; but we hurried away as rapidly 
as the ground would permit, for it was an object to regain our 
party as soon as possible, not knowing what accident the next 
hour might bring forth. 

We reached our deposite of provisions at nightfall. Here 
was not the inn which awaits the tired traveler on his return 
from Mont Blanc, or the orange groves of South America, 
with their refreshing juices and soft fragrant air ; but we found 
our little cache of dried meat and coffee undisturbed. Though 
the moon was bright, the road was full of precipices, and the 
fatigue of the day had been great. We therefore abandoned 
the idea of rejoining our friends, and lay down on the rock, 
and, in spite of the cold, slept soundly. 

16th. — We left our encampment with the daylight. We 
saw on our way large flocks of the mountain-goat looking 
down on us from the cliffs. At the crack of the rifle, they 
would bound off among the rocks, and in a few minutes make 
their appearance on some lofty peak, some hundred or a thou- 
sand feet above. It is needless to attempt any further descrip- 
tion of the country ; the portion over which we traveled this 



106 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

morning was rough as imagination could picture it, and to us 
seemed equally beautiful. A concourse of lakes and rushing 
waters — mountains of rocks naked and destitute of vegetable 
earth — dells and ravines of the most exquisite beauty, all kept 
green and fresh by the great moisture in the air, and sown 
with brilliant flowers, and everywhere thrown around all the 
glory of most magnificent scenes, — these constitute the features 
of the place, and impress themselves vividly on the mind of 
the traveler. It was not until 11 o'clock that we reached the 
place where our animals had been left, when we first attempted 
the mountains on foot. Near one of the still burning fires we 
found a piece of meat, which our friends had thrown away, 
and which furnished us a mouthful — a very scanty breakfast. 
We continued directly on, and reached our camp on the moun- 
tain lake at dusk. We found all well. Nothing had occurred 
to interrupt the quiet since our departure, and the fine grass 
and good cool water had done much to re-establish our animals. 
All heard with great delight the order to turn our faces home- 
ward ; and towards sundown of the 17th, we encamped again 
at the Two Buttes. 

In the course of this afternoon's march, the barometer was 
broken past remedy. I regretted it, as I was desirous to com- 
pare it again with Dr. Engleman's barometers at St. Louis, 
to which mine were referred ; but it had done its part well, 
and my objects were mainly fulfilled. 

19th. — We left our camp on Little Sandy river about seven 
in the morning, and traversed the same sandy, undulating 
country. The air was filled with the turpentine scent of the 
various artrmisias, which are now in bloom, and, numerous as 
they are, give much gayety to the landscape of the plains. 
At ten o'clock, we stood exactly on the divide in the pass, 
where the wagon- road crosses; and, descending immediately 
upon the Sweet Water, halted to take a meridian observation 
of the sun. The latitude was 4'2^ 2V 32"'. 

In the course of tiie afternoon we saw bullalo again, and at 
our evening halt on the Sweet Water the roasted ribs again 
made their appearance around the fires; and, witli them, good 
humor, and luughter and song, were restored to the camp. 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 1U7 

Our coffee had been expended, but we now made a kind of tea 
from the roots of the wild-cherry tree. 

23d. — Yesterday evening we reached our encampment at 
Rock Independence, where I took some astronomical observa- 
tions. Here, not unmindful of the custom of early travelers 
and explorers in our country, I engraved on this rock of the 
Far West a symbol of the Christian faith. Among the thickly 
inscribed names, I made on the hard granite the impression of 
a large cross, which I covered with a black preparation of 
India-rubber, well calculated to resist the influence of wind 
and rain. It stands amidst the names of many who have long 
since found their way to the grave, and for whom the huge 
rock is a giant gravestone. 

One George Weymouth was sent out to Maine by the 
Earl of Southampton, Lord Arundel, and others; and in the 
narrative of their discoveries, he says : " The next day we 
ascended in our pinnace that part of the river which lies more 
to the westward, carrying with us a cross — a thing never 
omitted by any Christian traveler — which we erected at tlio 
ultimate end of our route." This was in the year 160.5 ; and 
in 1842 I obeyed the feeling of early travelers, and left the 
impression of the cross deeply engraved on the vast rock one 
thousand miles beyond the Mississippi, to which discoverers 
have given the national name of Rock Independence. 

In obedience to my instructions to survey the river Platte, 
if possible, I had determined to make an attempt at this place. 
Tlie India-rubber boat was filled with air, placed in the water, 
and loaded with what was necessary for our operations ; and I 
embarked with Mr. Preuss and a party of men. When we 
had dragged our boat a mile or two over the sands, I abandoned 
the impossible undertaking, and waited for the arrival of the 
party, when we packed up our boat and equipage, and at nine 
o'clock were again moving along on our land journey. We 
continued along the valley on the right bank of the Sweet 
Water, where the formation, as already described, consists of 
a grayish micaceous sandstone, and fine-grained conglomerate, 
and mai'l. We passed over a ridge which borders or consti- 
tutes the river hills of the Platte, consisting of huge blocks, 



108 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Atjg 

sixty or eighty feet cube, of decomposing granite. The cement 
which united them was probably of easier decomposition, and 
has disappeared and left them isolate, and separated by small 
spaces. Numerous horns of the nnountain-goat were lying 
among the rocks ; and in the ravines were cedars, whose 
trunks were of extraordinary size. From this ridge we 
descended to a small open plain, at the mouth of the Sweet 
Water, which rushed with a rapid current into the Platte, 
here flowing along in a broad and apparently deep stream, 
which seemed, from its turbid appearance, to be considerably 
iiwollen. [ obtained here some astronomical observations, and 
the afternoon was spent in getting our boat ready for naviga- 
tion the next day. 

24th. — We started before sunrise, intending to breakfast at 
Goat island. I had directed the land party, in charge of Ber- 
nier, to proceed to this place, where they were to remain, should 
they find no note to apprize them of our having passed. In 
the event of receiving this information, they were to continue 
their route, passing by certain places which had been desig- 
nated. Mr. Preuss accompanied me, and with us were five 
of my best men, viz. : C. Lambert, Basil Lajeunesse, Honore 
Ayot, Benoist, and Descoteaux. Here appeared no scarcity 
of water, and we took on board, with various instruments and 
baggage, provisions for ten or twelve days. We paddled down 
the river rapidly, for our little craft was light as a duck on the 
water; and the sun had been some time risen, when wc heard 
before us a hollow roar, which we supposed to be that of a fall, 
of which we had heard a vague rumor, but whose exact locality 
no one had been able to describe to us. We were approach- 
ing a ridgp, through which the river passes by a plact^ called 
"canon," (pronounced knnyou,) — a Spanish word, signifying a 
piece of artillery, the barrel of a gun, or any kind of tube ; 
and which, in this country, has been adopted to describe the 
passage of a river between perpendicular rocks of great height, 
whicli frequently approach each other so closely overhead as 
to form a kind of tunnel over the stream, which foams along be- 
low, half choked up by fallen fragments. Between the mouth 
of the Sweet Water and Goat island, there is probably a fall 



1842.] CAIT. FiiE.MONx's NARRATIVE. 109 

of three hundred feet, und that was principally made in the 
canons before us ; as, without them, the water was compara- 
tively smooth. As we neared the ridge, the river made a 
sudden turn, and swept squarely down against one of the walls 
of the canon, with great velocity, and so steep a descent that it 
had, to the eye, the appearance of an inclined plane. When 
we launched into this, the men jumped overboard, to check the 
velocity of the boat ; but were soon in water up to their necks, 
and our boat ran on. But we succeeded in bringing her to a 
small point of rocks on the right, at the mouth of the canon. 
Here was a kind of elevated sand-beach, not many yards 
square, backed by the rocks ; and around the point the river 
swept at a right angle. Trunks of trees deposited on jutting 
points, twenty or thirty feet above, and other marks, showed 
that the water here frequently rose to a considerable height. 
The ridge was of the same decomposing granite already men- 
tioned, and the water had worked the surface, in many places, 
into a wavy surface of ridges and holes. We ascended the 
rocks to reconnoitre the ground, and from the summit the pas- 
sage appeared to be a continued cataract, foaming over many 
obstructions, and broken by a number of small falls. We saw 
nowhere a fall answering to that which had been described to 
us as having twenty or twenty-five feet ; but still concluded 
this to be the place in question, as, in the season of floods, the 
rush of the river against the wall would produce a groat rise ; 
and the waters, reflected squarely ofl*, would descend through 
the passage in a sheet of foam, having every appearance of a 
large fall. Eighteen years previous to this time, as I have 
subsequently learned from himself, Mr. Fitzpatrick, somewhere 
above on this river, had embarked with a valuable cargo of 
beaver. Unacquainted with the stream, which he believed 
would conduct him safely to the Missouri, he came unexpect- 
edly into this canon, where he was wrecked, with the total loss 
of his furs. It would have been a work of great time and 
labor to pack our baggage across the ridge, and I determined 
to run the canon. We all again embarked, and at first 
attempted to check the way of the boat ; but the water swept 
through with so much violence that we narrowly escaped being 

10 



110 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

swamped, and were obliged to let her go in the full force of 
the current, and trust to the skill of the boatmen. The dan- 
gerous places in this canon were where huge rocks had fallen 
from above, and hemmed in the already narrow pass of the 
river to an open space of three or four and five feet. These 
obstructions raised the water considerably above, which was 
sometimes precipitated over in a fall ; and at other places, 
where this dam was too high, rushed through the contracted 
opening with tremendous violence. Had our boat been made 
of wood, in passing the narrows she would have been staved ; 
but her elasticity preserved her unhurt from every shock, and 
she seemed fairly to leap over the falls. 

In this way we passed three cataracts in succession, where 
perhaps 100 feet of smooth water intervejied ; and, finally, 
with a shout of pleasure at our success, issued from our tun- 
nel into the open day beyond. We were so delighted with the 
performance of our boat, and so confident in her powers, that 
we would not have hesitated to leap a fall of ten feet with her. 
We put to shore for breakfast at some willows on the right 
bank, immediately below the mouth of the canon ; for it was 
now eight o'clock, and we had been working since daylight, 
and were all wet, fatigued, and hungry. While the men were 
preparing breakfast, I went out to reconnoitre. The view was 
very limited. The course of the river was smooth, so fiir as I 
could see; on both sides were broken hills; and but a mile or 
two below was another high ridge. The rock at the mouth 
of the canon was still the decomposing granite, with great 
quantities of mica, which made a very glittering sand. 

We re-embarked at nine o'clock, and in about twenty min- 
utes reached the next canon. Landing on a rocky shore at its 
commencement, we ascended the ridge to reconnoitre. Port- 
age was out of the question. So far as we could see, the jag- 
ged rocks pointed out the course of the canon, on a winding 
line of seven or eight miles. It was simply a narrow, dark 
chasm in the rock ; and here the perpendicular faces were 
much higher than in the previous pass, being at this end two 
to three hundred, and further down, as we afterwards ascer- 
tained, five hundred feet in vertical hoight. Our previous 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. Ill 

success had made us bold, and we determined agam to run 
the canon. Every thing was secured as firmly as possible ; 
and having divested ourselves of the greater part of our cloth- 
ing, we pushed into the stream. To save our chronometer 
from accident, Mr. Preuss took it, and attempted to proceed 
along the shore on the masses of rock, which in places were 
piled up on either side ; but, after he had walked about five 
minutes, every thing like shore disappeared, and the vertical 
wall came squarely down into the water. He therefore wait- 
ed until we came up. An ugly pass lay before us. We had 
made fast to the stern of the boat a strong rope about fifty feet 
long ; and three of the men clambered along among the rocks, 
and with this rope let her slowly through the pass. In several 
places high rocks lay scattered about in the channel ; and in 
the narrows it required all our strength and skill to avoid sta- 
ving the boat on the sharp points. In one of these, the boat 
proved a little too broad, and stuck fast for an instant, while 
the water flew over us ; fortunately, it was but for an instant, 
as our united strength forced her immediately through. The 
water swept overboard only a sextant and a pair of saddle- 
bags. I caught the sextant as it passed by me ; but the sad- 
dle-bags became the prey of the whirlpools. We reached the 
place where Mr. Preuss was standing, took him on board, and, 
with the aid of the boat, put the men with the rope on the suc- 
ceeding pile of rocks. We found this passage much worse 
than the previous one, and our position was rather a. bad one. 
To go back was impossible ; before us, the cataract was a 
sheet of foam ; and shut up in the chasm by the rocks, which, 
in some places, seemed almost to meet overhead, the roar of 
the water was deafening. We pushed off again ; but, after 
making a little distance, the force of the current became too 
great for the men on shore, and two of them let go the rope. 
Lajeunesse, the third man, hung on, and was jerked headfore- 
most into the river from a rock about twelve feet high ; and 
down the boat shot like an arrow, Basil following us in the 
rapid current, and exerting all his strength to keep in mid 
channel — his head only seen occasionally like a black spot in 
the white foam. How far we went, I do not exactly know; 



112 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

but we succeeded in turning the boat into an eddy below. 
*' 'Cre Dieu,''^ said Basil Lajeunesse, as he arrived immediate- 
ly after us, " Jie crois bien que fai nage un demi mile.'' He 
had owed his life to his skill as a swimmer, and I determined 
to take him and the two others on board, and trust to skill and 
fortune to reach the other end in safety. We placed ourselves 
on our knees with the short paddles in our hands, the most 
skilful boatman being at the bow ; and again we commenced 
our rapid descent. We cleared rock after rock, and shot past 
fall after fall, our little boat seeming to play with the cataract. 
We became flushed with success, and familiar with the danger ; 
and, yielding to the excitement of the occasion, broke forth into 
a Canadian boat-song. Singing, or rather shouting, we dash- 
ed along, and were, I believe, in the midst of the chorus, when 
the boat struck a concealed rock immediately at the foot of a 
fall, which whirled her over in an instant. Three of my men 
could not swim, and my first feeling was to assist them, and 
save some of our eftects ; but a sharp concussion or two con- 
vinced me that I had not yet saved myself. A few strokes 
brought me into an eddy, and I landed on a pile of rocks on 
the Icit side. Looking around, I saw that Mr. Preuss had 
gained the shore on the same side, about twenty yards below ; 
and a little climbing and swimming soon brought him to my 
side. On tlie opposite side, against tlie wall, lay the boat bot- 
tom up ; and Lambert was in the act of saving Descoteaux, 
whom he had grasped by the hair, and who could not swim ; 
" Ldche pas,'' said he, as I afterwards learned, " Idche pas, 
cher frdre." " Grains pas," was the reply : "je m'cn vais 
inourir avanl que de te idclicr." Such was the reply of cour- 
age and generosity in this danger. For a hundred yards be- 
low the current was covered with floating books and boxes, 
bales and blankets, and scattered articles of clothing ; and so 
strong and Iwiling was the stream, that even our heavy in- 
strumcnts, wiiich were all in cases, kept on the surface, and the 
sextant, circle, and the long black box of tlie telescope, were 
in view at once. For a moment, I felt somewhat dishearten- 
ed. All our books — almost every record of the journey — our 
journals and registers of astronomical and barometrical obser- 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 113 

vations — had been lost in a moment. But it was no time to 
indulge in regrets ; and I immediately set about endeavoring to 
save something from the wreck. Making ourselves understood 
as well as possible by signs, (for nothing could be heard in 
thq roar of the waters,) we commenced our operations. Of 
every thing on board, the only article that had been saved was 
my double-barreled gun, which Descoteaux had caught and 
clung to with drowning tenacity. The men continued down 
the river on the left bank. Mr. Preuss and myself descended 
on the side we were on ; and Lajeunesse, with a paddle in his 
hand, jumped on the boat alone, and continued down the can- 
on. She was now light, and cleared every bad place with 
much less difficulty. In a short time he was joined by Lam- 
bert, and the search was continued for about a mile and a half, 
which was as far as the boat could proceed in the pass. 

Here the walls were about five hundred feet high, and the 
fragments of rocks from above had choked the river into a hol- 
low pass, but one or two feet above the surface. Through 
tills and the interstices of the rock, the water found its way. 
Favored beyond our expectations, all of our registers had been 
recovered, with the exception of one of my journals, which 
contained the notes and incidents of travel, and topographical 
descriptions, a number of scattered astronomical observations, 
principally meridian altitudes of the sun, and our barometri- 
cal register west of Laramie. Fortunately, our other journals 
contained duplicates of the most important barometrical obser- 
vations which had been taken in the mountains. These, with 
a few scattered notes, were all that had been preserved of our 
ineteorolofjical observations. In addition to these, we saved 
the circle ; and these, with a few blankets, constituted every 
thing that had been rescued from the waters. 

The day was running rapidly away, and it was necessary 
to reach Goat island, whither the party had preceded us, be- 
fore night. In this uncertain country, the traveler is so much 
in the power of chance, that we became somewhat uneasy in 
regard to thenv. Should any thing have occurred, in the brief 
interval of our separation, to prevent our rejoining them, our 
situation would be rather a desperate one. We had not a 

10* 



114 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

morsel of provisions — our arms and ammunition were gone — and 
we were entirely at the mercy of any straggling party of sav- 
ages, and not a little in danger of starvation. We therefore 
set out at once in two parties, Mr. Preuss and myself on the 
left, and the men on the opposite side of the river. Climbing 
out of the canon, we found ourselves in a very broken country, 
where we were not yet able to recognise any locality. In the 
course of our descent through the canon, the rocks, which at 
the upper end was of the decomposing granite, changed into a 
varied sandstone formation. The hills and points of the ridges 
were covered with fragments of a yellow sandstone, of which 
the strata were sometines displayed in the broken ravines 
which interrupted our course, and made our walk extremely 
fatiguing. At one point of the canon the red argillaceous sand- 
stone rose in a wall of five hundred feet, surmounted by a 
stratum of white sandstone ; and in an opposite ravine a col- 
umn of red sandstone rose, in form like a steeple, about one 
hundred and fifty feet high. The scenery was extremely pic- 
turesque, and notwithstanding our forlorn condition, we were 
frequently obliged to stop and admire it. Our progress was 
not very rapid. We had emerged from the water half naked, 
and, on arriving at the top of the precipice, I found myself 
with only one moccasin. The fragments of rock made walk- 
ing painful, and I was frequently obliged to stop and pull out 
the thorns of the caciits, here the prevailing plant, and with 
Avhich a few minutes' walk covered the bottoms of my feet. 
From this ridge the river emerged into a smiling prairie, and, 
descending to the bank for water, we were joined by Bcnoist. 
The rest of the party were out of sight, having taken a more 
inland route. We crossed the river repeatedly — sometimes 
able to ford it, and sometimes swimming — climbed over the 
ridges of two more canons, and towards evening reached the 
cut, which we here named the Hot Spring gate. On our pre- 
vious visit in July, we had not entered this pass, reserving it 
for our descent in the boat ; and when we entered it this even- 
ing, Mr. Preuss was a few hundred feet in advance. Heated 
with the long march, he came suddenly upon a fine bold spring 
gushing from the rock, about ten feet above the river. Eager 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 115 

to enjoy the crystal water, he threw himself down for a hasty 
draught, and took a mouthful of water almost boiling hot. He 
said nothing to Bcnoist, who laid himself down to drink ; but 
the steam from the water arrested his eagerness, and he es- 
caped the hot draught. We had no thermometer to ascertain 
the temperature, but I could hold my hand in the water just 
long enough to count two seconds. There are eight or ten of 
these springs discharging themselves by streams large enough 
to be called runs. A loud hollow noise was heard from the 
rock, which I supposed to be produced by the fall of water. 
The strata immediately where they issue is a fine white and 
calcareous sandstone, covered with an incrustation of common 
salt. Leaving this Thermopylae of the west, in a short walk 
we reached the red ridge which has been described as lying 
just above Goat island. Ascending this, we found some fresh 
tracks and a button, which showed that the other men had al- 
ready arrived. A shout from the man who first reached the 
top of the ridge, responded to from below, informed us that our 
friends were all on the island ; and we were soon among them. 
We found some pieces of buffalo standing around the fire for 
us, and managed to get some dry clothes among the people. 
A sudden storm of rain drove us into the best shelter we could 
find, where we slept soundly, after one of the most fatiguing 
days I have ever experienced. 

25th. — Early this morning Lajeunesse was sent to the wreck 
for the articles which had been saved, and about noon we left 
the island. The mare which we had left here in July had 
much improved in condition, and she sprvcd us well again for 
some time, but was finally abandoned at a subsequent part of 
the journey. At 10 in the morning of the 26th we reached 
Cache camp, where we found every thing undisturbed. We 
disinterred our deposite, arranged our carts which had been 
left here on the way out ; and, traveling a kw miles in t!:o 
afternoon, encamped for the night at the ford of the Platte. 

27th. — At mid-day we halted at the place where we had 
taken dinner on the 27th of July. The country which, when 
we passed up, looked as if the hard winter frosts had passed 
over it, had now assumed a new face, so much of vernal fresh- 



116 CAPT. fkemont's narrative. [Aug. 

ness had been given to it by the rains. The Platte was e.\- 
ceedingly low — a mere line of water among the sandbars. We 
reached Laramie fort on the last day of August, after an 
absence of forty-two days, and had the pleasure to find our 
friends all well. The fortieth day had been fixed for our re- 
turn ; and the quick eyes of the Indians, who were on the 
lookout for us, discovered our flag as we wound among the 
hills. The fort saluted us with repeated discharges of its 
single piece, which we returned with scattered volleys of our 
small-arms, and felt the joy of a home reception in getting 
back to this remote station, which seemed so far off as we 
went out. 



SEPTEMBER. 

On the morning of the 3d September we bade adieu to our 
kind friends at the fort, and continued our homeward journey 
down the Platte, whicli was glorious with the autumnal splen- 
dor of innumerable flowers in full and brilliant bloom. On 
the warm sands, among the helianthi, one of the characteristic 
plants, we saw great numbers of rattlesnakes, of which five 
or six were killed in the morning's ride. We occupied our- 
selves in improving our previous survey of the river; and, as 
the weather was fine, astronomical observations were generally 
made at night and at noon. 

We halted for a short time on the afternoon of the .'ith with 
a village of Sioux Indians, some of whose chiefs we had met 
at Laramie. The water in the Platte was exceedingly low ; 
in many places, the large expanse of sands, with some oc- 
casional stunted tree on its banks, gave it the air of the sea- 
coast ; the bed of the river being merely a succession of sand- 
bars, among which the chunnol was divided into rivulets of a 
fi'W inches dorp. We crossed and recrossed with our carts 
repeatedly and at our pleasure ; and, whenever an obstruction 
barred our way in the shape of precipitous blufl's that came 
down upon the river, we turned directly into it, and made our 



1842.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 117 

way along the sandy bed, with no other inconvenience than 
the frequent quicksands, which greatly fatigued our animals. 
Disinterring on the way the cache which had been made by 
our party when they ascended the river, we reached without 
accident, on the evening of the 12th of September, our old 
encampment of the 2d of July, at the junction of the forks. 
Our cache of the barrel of pork was found undisturbed, and 
proved a seasonable addition to our stock of provisions. At 
this place I had determined to make another attempt to descend 
the Platte by water, and accordingly spent two days in the 
construction of a bull boat. Men were sent out on the evening 
of our arrival, the necessary number of bulls killed, and their 
skins brought to the camp. Four of the best of them were 
strongly sewed together with buffalo sinew, and stretched over 
a basket frame of willow. The seams were then covered with 
ashes and tallow, and the boat left exposed to the sun for the 
greater part of one day, which was sufficient to dry and con- 
tract the skin, and make the whole work solid and strong. It 
had a rounded bow, was eight feet long and five broad, and 
drew with four men about four inches water. On the morning 
of the 15th we embarked in our hide boat, Mr. Preuss and 
myself, with two men. We dragged her over the sands for 
three or four miles, and then left her on a bar, and abandoned 
entirely all further attempts to navigate this river. The names 
given by the Indians are always remarkably appropriate ; and 
certainly none was ever more so than that which they have 
given to this stream — "The Nebraska, or Shallow river." 
Walking steadily the remainder of the day, a little before dark 
we overtook our people at their remaining camp, about twenty- 
one miles below the junction. The next morning we crossed 
the Platte, and continued our way down the river bottom on 
the left bank, where we found an excellent, plainly-beaten 
road. 

On the 18th we reached Grand Island, which is fifty-two 
miles long, with an average breadth of one mile and three- 
quarters. It has on it some small eminences, and is sufficiently 
elevated to be secure from the annual floods of the river. As 
has been already remarked, it is well timbered, with an excel- 



118 CAPT. Fremont's nareative. [Sept. 

lent soil, and recommends itself to notice as the best point for 
a military position on the Lower Platte. 

On the 22d we arrived at the village of the Grand Paw. 
nees, on the right bank of the river, about thirty miles above 
the mouth of the Loup fork. They were gathering in their 
corn, and we obtained from them a very welcome supply of 
vegetables. 

The morning of the 24th we reached the Loup fork of the 
Platte. At the place where we forded it, this stream was four 
hundred and thirty yards broad, with a swift current of char 
water ; in this respect, differing from the Platte, which has a 
yellow muddy color, derived from the limestone and marl for- 
mation, of which we have previously spoken. The ford was 
difficult, as the water was so deep that it came into the body 
of the carts, and we reached the opposite bank after repeated 
attempts, ascending and descending the bed of the river, in 
order to avail ourselves of the bars. We encamped on the 
left bank of the fork, in the point of land at its junction with 
the Platte. During the two days that we remained here for 
astronomical observations, the bad weather permitted us to ob- 
tain but one good observation for the latitude — a meridian alti- 
tude of tiie sun, which gave for the latitude of the mouth of 
the Loup fork, 41'^ 22' IV\ 

Five or six days previously, I had sent forward C. Lambert, 
with two men, to Bellevue, with directions to ask from Mr. P. 
Sarpy, the gentleman in charge of the American Company's 
establishment at that place, the aid of his carpenters in con- 
structing a boat, in which I proposed to descend the Missouri. 
On the afternoon of the 27th we met one of the men, who had 
been dispatched by Mr. Sarpy with a welcome supply of pro- 
visions and a very kind note, which gave us the very gratify- 
ing intelligence that our boat was in rapid progress. On the 
evening of tlio 30tii we encamped in an almost impenetrable 
undergrowth on the left bank of the Platte, in the point of land 
at its confluence with the Missouri — 315 miles, according to 
our reckoning, from the junction of the forks, and o20 from 
Fort Laramie. From the jiinttion we had found the bed o( 
the Platte occupied with numerous islands, many of them 



1842.] CAPT. fremOxNt's narrative. 119 

very large, and all well timbered ; possessing, as well ^ the 
bottom lands of the river, a very excellent soil. With the 
exception of some scattered groves on the banks, the bottoms 
are generally without timber. A portion of these consist of 
low grounds, covered with a profusion of fine grasses, and are 
probably inundated in the spring ; the remaining part is high 
river prairie, entirely beyond the influence of the floods. The 
breadth of the river is usually three-quarters of a mile, except 
where it is enlarged by islands. That portion of its course 
which is occupied by Grand island has an average breadth, 
from shore to shore, of two and a half miles. 



OCTOBER. 

1st. — I rose this morning long before daylight, and heard 
with a feeling of pleasure the tinkling of cow-bells at the set- 
tlements on the opposite side of the Missouri. Early in the 
day we reached Mr. Sarpy's residence ; and, in the security 
and comfort of his hospitable mansion, felt the pleasure of 
being within the pale of civilization. We found our boat on 
the stocks ; a few days sufficed to complete her ; and, in the 
afternoon of the 4th, we embarked on the Missouri. All our 
equipage — horses, carts, and the materiel of the camp — had 
been sold at public auction at Bellevue. The strength of my 
party enabled me to*man the boat with ten oars, relieved every 
hour ; and we descended rapidly. Early on the morning of 
the 10th, we halted to make some astronomical observations 
at the mouth of the Kansas, exactly four months since we had 
left the trading-post of Mr. Cyprian Chouteau, on the same 
river, ten miles above. On our descent to this place, we had 
employed ourselves in surveying and sketching the Missouri, 
making astronomical observations regularly at night and at 
mid-day, whenever the weather permitted. These operations 
on the river were continued until our arrival at the city of St. 
Louis, Missouri, on the 17th. At St. Louis, the sale of our 



120 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

remaj^ing efTects was made ; and, leaving that city oy steam- 
boat on the 18th, I had the honor to report to you at the city 
of Washington on the 29th of October. 

Very respectfully, sir, 

Your obedient servant, 

J. C. FREMONT, 
2d Lieutenant Corps of Topographical Engineers. 



ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS 

The Longitudes given in the subjoined Table are referred to the 
meridian of Greenwich. 

For the determination of astronomical positions, we were 
provided with the following instruments : 

One telescope, magnifying power 120. 

One circle, by Gambey, Paris. 

One sextant, by Gambey, Paris. 

One sextant, by Troughton. 

One box chronometer, No. 7,810, by French. 

One Brockbank pocket chronometer. 

One small watch with a light chronometer balance, No. 
4,632, by Arnold and Dent. 

The rate of the chronometer, 7,810, is exhibited in the fol- 
lowing statement : 

" New York, May 5, 1842. 

•' Chronometer No. 7,810, by French, is this day at noon — 

" S/oiP of (Jreenwich mean time, - - - 11' 4" 

" Fust of New York mean time, - - Ah. 45' 1" 

" Loees per day 2''. 7 

"Arthur Stewart, 74 Merchants' Exchange." 

An accident among some rough ground in the neighborhood 
of the Kansas river, strained the balance of this chronometer, 
(No. 7,810,) and rendered it useless during the remainder of 
the campaign. From the 9th of June to the 24th of .\ugust, 
inclusively, the longitudes depend upon the Brockbank pocket 
chronometer ; the rate of which, on leaving St. Louis, was 



1842.] 



CAPT. FREMONT S NARRATIVE. 



121 



toiiiteen seconds. The rate obtained by observations at Fort 
Laramie, 14''''. 05, has been used in calculation. 

From the 24th of August until the termination of the jour- 
ney, No. 4,632 (of which the rate was 35^^.79) was used for 
the same purposes. The rate of this watch was irregular, and 
I place little confidence in the few longitudes which depend 
upon it, though, so far as we have any means of judging, they 
appear tolerably correct. 



Tahle of Latitudes and Longitudes, deduced from Observations 
made during the Journey. 



Dale. 



La 


titu 


de. 


Lor 


gitude. 


Des 


min 


. «c. 


Dts- 


min. 


»K. 


38 


37 


34 








39 


05 


57 


94 


25 


46 


39 


06 


40 


95 


:<8 


05 


39 


15 


19 


96 


04 


07 


39 


30 


40 


96 


14 


49 


39 


45 


08 


96 


32 


;« 


40 


20 


50 


98 


£>0 


12 


40 


41 


Ofi 


98 


45 


49 


40 


39 


32 


99 


05 


24 


40 


39 


51 








40 


39 


55 


100 


05 


47 


41 


05 


05 


100 


49 


43 


40 


51 


17 


103 


07 




40 


53 


20 


103 


30 


37 


40 


O-T 


35 


105 


12 


12 


40 


41 


59 


104 


57 


49 


41 


08 


30 


104 


39 


37 


41 


40 


13 


104 


24 


36 


42 


12 


10 


104 


47 


43 


41! 


39 


25 


104 


59 


59 


4-2 


47 


40 








4i! 


51 


35 


105 


50 


45 


42 


50 


08 








42 


52 


24 


I Ofi 


08 


24 


42 


SO 


53 


lOfi 


:i8 


26 


42 


m 


01 


km; 


54 


32 


42 


33 


27 


107 


13 


29 


42 


29 


50 


107 


25 


23 


42 


32 


31 


108 


30 


13 


42 


27 


15 


109 


21 


32 


42 


27 


34 


109 


37 


59 


42 


42 


40 


109 


58 


11 


42 


49 


49 


110 


08 


03 


42 


24 


32 








42 


22 


22 








42 


31 


46 








42 


2f. 


10 








42 


29 


30 








42 


27 


18 








42 


24 


24 









1842. 

May 27 

June 8 

16 

18 

19 

20 

25 

26 

27 

28 

30 

July 2 



7 
11 
12 
13 
14 
16 
23 
24 
25 
26 
26 
28 
29 
30 
M\s. 1 



St. Louis, residence of Colonel Brant 

Chouteau's lower tradinKpost, Kansas river, 

I.eft hank of Kansas river, 7 miles above the ford, 

Vermilion creek, 

Cold springs, near the road to Laramie, 

Big Blue river, 

Little Blue river, 

Ritiht bank of Platte river, 

Right bank of Platte river, 

Right bank of Platte river, 

Right bank of Platte river, 

Junction of north and south forks of the Nebraska 
or Platte river 

South fork of Platte river, left bank, 

South fork of Platie river, island, 

South fork of Platte river, left bank. 

South fork of Platte river, St. Vrain's fort, 

Crow creek, 

On a stream, name unknown, 

Horse creek, Goshen's hole i 

Fort Laramie, near the mouth of Laramie's fork,. 

North (()rk of Platte river, 

North fork of Platte river 

North fork of Pl.ilte river, Dried Meat camp 

North fork of Platte river, noon halt 

North fork of Platte river, mouth of Deer creek, .• 

North fork of Platte river. Cache camp, 

North fork of Platte river, left bank 

North fork of I'lalte river, Goat island 

Sweet Water river, one mile below Rock Inde- 
pendence, 

Sweet Water river, 

Sweet Water river. 

Little Sandy creek, tributary to the Colorado of 
the West, 

New fork, tributary to the Colorado, 

Mountain lake. 

Highest |)eak of the Wind River mountains, 

Sweet Water, noon halt, 

Sweet Water river 

Sweet Water river, 

Sweet Water river, noon halt, 

Sweet Water river. Rock Independence, 

North fork of Platte river, mouth of Sweet Water, 

Horse shoe creek, noon halt, 

11 



122 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [1842. 

Table of Latitudes and Liongiludea — Continued. 



Date. 



1842. 
Sept. 3 
4 



8 
9 
10 
l)i 
If. 
17 
18 
19 
20 
20 
21 
23 
23 
25 
28 
29 
Oct. 2 



StAtion . 



North fork of Platte river, right bank 

Niirlh fork of Platle river, near Scon's bluffs, 

North fork of Platte river, right bank, six miles 
above Chimney rock, 

North fork of Platte river, mouth of Ash creek,. • . 

North fork of Platte river, right hank, 

North fork of Platte river. Cedar blurts, 

Platte river, noon halt, 

Platte river, left bank. 

Platte river, lell bank, 

Platte river, left bink, 

Platte river, left bank, 

Platte river, noon halt, left bank, 

Platte river, left bank. 

Platte river, left bank. 

Platle river, noon halt, left bank, 

Platte river, left bank. 

Platte river, mouth of Loup fork, 

Plalte river, mouth of Elk Horn river, 

Platte river, left bank, 

Bellevue, at the post of the. .American Kur Com- 
pany, rinht bank of the Missouri river, 

Left bank of the Missouri, opposite to the right 
bank of the mouth of thc.Platte. 

Misiouri river 

Hertholet's island, noon hall, 

.Missouri river, mouth of Nishnabalona river, .... 

Mi.tsouri river, left Imnk, 

Missouri river, nioulh of the Kansas river 



Latitude. Longitude 



D.g. 


min 


•K. 


42 


01 


40 


41 


54 


38 


41 


43 


36 


41 


17 


19 


41 


14 


30 


41 


10 


16 


40 


54 


31 


40 


52 


:h 


40 


42 


38 


40 


40 


21 


40 


39 


44 


40 


48 


19 


40 


54 


02 


41 


05 


37 


41 


20 


20 


41 


22 


52 


41 


22 


U 


41 


09 


34 


41 


02 


15 


41 


08 


24 


41 


02 


11 


40 


34 


08 


40 


27 


08 


40 


16 


40 


39 


36 


02 


39 


06 


03 



Deg. min. 



A REPORT 

OF 

THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION 

TO 

OREGON AND NORTH CALIFORNIA, 

IN THE YEARS 1843-44. 



Washington City, March 1, 1845 
To Colonel J. J. Abert, Chief of the Corps of Top. Engineers : 

Sir : — In pursuance of your instructions, to connect the re- 
connoisance of 1842, which I had the honor to conduct, with the 
surveys of Commander Wilkes on the coast of the Pacific 
ocean, so as to give a connected survey of the interior of our 
continent, I proceeded to the Great West early in the spring 
of 1843, and arrived, on the 17th of May, at the little town of 
Kansas, on the Missouri frontier, near the junction of the Kan- 
sas river with the Missouri river, where I was detained near 
two weeks in completing the necessary preparations for the 
extended explorations which my instructions contemplated. 

My party consisted principally of Creole and Canadian 
French, and Americans, amounting in all to thirty-nine men ; 
among whom yotf will recognise several of those who were 
with me in my first expedition, and who have been favorably 
brought to your notice in a former report. Mr. Thomas Fitz- 
patrick, whom many years of hardship and exposure, in the 
western territories, had rendered familiar with a portion of the 
country it was designed to explore, had been selected as our 
guide; and Mr. Charles Preuss, who had been my assistant in 
a previous journey, was again associated with me in the same 
capacity, on the present expedition. Agreeably to your direc- 
tions, Mr. Theodore Talbot, of Washington city, had been 



124 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Mat, 

attached to the party, with a view to advancement in his pro- 
fession ; and at St. Louis I had been joined by Mr. Frederick 
D wight, a gentleman of Springfield, Massachusetts, who availed 
himself of our overland journey to visit the Sandwich Islands 
and China, by way of Fort Vancouver. 

The men engaged for the service were : Alexis Ayot, Fran- 
cis Badeau, Oliver Beaulieu, Baptiste Bernier, John A. Camp- 
hell, John G. Campbell, Manuel Chapman, Ransom Clark, 
Philibert Courteau, Michel Crelis, William Creuss, Clinton 
Deforest, Baptiste Derosier, Basil Lajeunesse, Francois Lajeu- 
nesse, Henry Lee, Louis Menard, Louis Montreuil, Samuel 
Neal, Alexis Pera, Fran(?ois Pera, James Power, Raphael 
Proue, Oscar Sarpy, Baptiste Tabeau, Charles Taplin, Bap- 
tiste Tesson, Auguste Vasquez, Joseph Verrot, Patrick White, 
Tiery Wright, Louis Zindel, and Jacob Dodson, a free young 
colored man of Washington city, who volunteered to accom- 
pany the expedition, and performed his duty manfully through- 
out the voyage. Two Delaware Indians — a fine-looking old 
man and his son — were engaged to accompany the expedition 
as hunters, through the kindness of Major Cummins, the excel- 
lent Indian agent. L. Maxwell, who had accompanied the 
expedition as one of the hunters in 1842, being on his way to 
Taos, in New Mexico, also joined us at this place. 

The party was generally armed with Hall's carbines, which, 
with a brass twelve-pound howitzer, had been furnished to me 
from the United States arsenal at St. Louis, agreeably to tlie 
orders of Colonel S. W. Kearney, commanding the third mili- 
tary division. Three men were especially detailed for the 
management of this piece, under the charge of Louis Zindel, a 
native of Germany, who had been nineteen years a non-com- 
missioned officer of artillery in the Prussian army, and regu- 
larly instructed in the duties of his profession. The camp 
equipage and provisions were transported in twelve carts, 
drawn each l)y two mules ; and a light covered wagon, mounted 
on good springs, had been provided for the safer carriage of 
instruments. • These were : 

One refracting telescope, by Frauenhofer. 

One reflecting circle, by Gambey. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 125 

Two sextants, by Troughton. 

One pocket chronometer, No. 837, by Goffe, Falmouth. 

One pocket chronometer, No. 739, by Brockbank. 

One syphon barometer, by Bunten, Paris. 

One cistern barometer, by Frye and Shaw, New York. 

Six thermometers, and a number of small compasses. 

To make the exploration as useful as possible, I determined, 
in conformity to your general instructions, to vary the route to 
the Rocky mountains from that followed in 1842, The route 
was then up the valley of the Great Platte river to the South 
Pass, in north latitude 42° ; the route now determined on was 
up the valley of the Kansas river, and to the head of the Ar- 
kansas river, and to some pass in the mountains, if any could 
be found, at the sources of that river. 

By making this deviation from the former route, the problem 
of a new road to Oregon and California, in a climate more 
genial, might be solved ; and a better knowledge obtained of 
an important river, and the country it drained, while the great 
object of the expedition would find its point of commencement 
at the termination of the former, which was at that great gate 
in the ridge of the Rocky mountains called the South Pass, and 
on the lofty peak of the mountain which overlooks it, deemed 
the highest peak in the ridge, and from the opposite side of 
which four great rivers take their rise, and flow to the Pacific 
or the Mississippi. 

Various obstacles delayed our departure until the morning 
of the 29th, when we commenced our long voyage ; and at 
the close of a day, rendered disagreeably cold by incessant 
rain, encamped about four miles beyond the frontier, on the 
verge of the great prairies. 

Resuming our journey on the 31st, after the delay of a day 
to complete our equipment and furnish ourselves with some of 
the comforts of civilized life, we encamped in the evening at 
Elm Grove, in company with several emigrant wagons, con- 
stitiitihg a party which was proceeding to Upper California, 
under the direction of Mr. J. B. Childs, of Missouri. The 
wagons were variously freighted with goods, furniture, and 
farming utensils, containing among other things an entire set 

11* 



12G CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

of machinery for a mill which Mr. Childs designed erecting 
on the waters of the Sacramento river, emptying into the bay 
of San Francisco. 

We were joined here by Mr. Wm. Gilpin of Mo., who, in- 
tending this year to visit the settlements in Oregon, had been 
invited to accompany us, and proved a useful and agreeable 
addition to the party. 



JUNE- 

From Elm Grove, our route until the third of June was 
nearly the same as that described to you in 1842. Trains of 
wagons were almost constantly in sight ; giving to the road a 
populous and animated appearance, although the greater por- 
tion of the emigrants were collected at the crossing, or already 
on their march beyond the Kansas river. Leaving at the ford 
the usual emigrant road to the mountains, we continued our 
route along the southern side of the Kansas, where we found 
the country much more broken than on the northern side of 
the river, and where our progress was much delayed by the 
numerous small streams, which obliged us to make frequent 
bridges. On the morning of the 4th we crossed a handsome 
stream, called by the Indians Otter creek, about 130 feet wide, 
where a flat stratum of limestone, which forms the bed, made 
an excellent ford. We met here a small party of Kansas and 
Delaware Indians, the latter returning from a hunting and 
trapping expedition on the upper waters of the river; and on 
the heights above were five or six Kansas women, engaged in 
digging prairie potatoes, (psoralen esculenfa.) On the after- 
noon of the 6th, whilst busily engaged in crossing a wooded 
stream, we were thrown into a little confusion by the sudden 
arrival of Maxwell, who entered the camp at full speed at the 
head of a war party of Osage Indians, with gay red blankets, 
and heads shaved to the scalp lock. They had run him a 
distance of about nine miles, from a creek on which we had 
encamped the day previous, and to wl)ich he had returned in 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 127 

search of a runaway horse belonging to Mr. Dwight, which 
had taken the homeward road, carrying with him saddle, 
bridle, and holster-pistols. The Osages were probably igno- 
rant of our strength, and, when they charged into the camp, 
drove off a number of our best horses ; but we were fortunately 
well mounted, and, after a hard chase of seven or eight miles, 
succeeded in recovering them all. This accident, which oc- 
casioned delay and trouble, and threatened danger and loss, 
and broke down some good horses at the start, and actually 
endangered the expedition, was a first fruit of having gentle- 
men in company — very estimable, to be sure, but who are not 
trained to the care and vigilance and self-dependence which 
such an expedition required, and who are not subject to the 
orders which enforce attention and exertion. We arrived on 
the 8th at the mouth of the Smoky-hill fork, which is the prin- 
cipal southern branch of the Kansas ; forming here, by its 
junction with the Republican, or northern branch, the main 
Kansas river. Neither stream was fordable, and the necessity 
of making a raft, together with bad weather, detained us here 
until the morning of the 11th ; when we resumed our journey 
along the Republican fork. By our observations, the junction 
of the streams is in lat. 39° 30" 38"^ long. 96° 24" 36"", and 
at an elevation of 926 feet above the Gulf of Mexico. For 
several days we continued to travel along the Republican, 
through a country beautifully watered with numerous streams, 
and handsomely timbered ; and rarely an incident occurred to 
vary the monotonous resemblance which one day on the prairies 
here bears to another, and which scarcely require a particular 
description. Now and then, we caught a glimpse of a small 
herd of elk ; and occasionally a band of antelopes, whose 
curiosity sometimes brought them within rifle range, would 
circle round us and then scour off into the prairies. As we 
advanced on our road, these became more frequent ; but as 
we journeyed on the line usually followed by the trapping and 
hunting parties of the Kansas and Delaware Indians, game of 
every kind continued very shy and wild. The bottoms which 
form the immediate valley of the main river were generally 
about three miles wide ; having a rich soil of black vegetable 



128 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

mould, and, for a prairie country, well interspersed with wood. 
The country was everywhere covered with a considerable 
variety of grasses, occasionally poor and thin, but far more 
frequently luxuriant and rich. We had been gradually and 
regularly ascending in our progress westward, and on the 
evening of the 14th, when we encamped on a little creek in 
tiie valley of the Republican, 265 miles by our traveling road 
from the mouth of the Kansas, we were at an elevation of 
1,520 feet. That part of the river where we were now en- 
camped is called by the Indians the Bi\g Timber. Hitherto our 
route had been laborious and extremely slow, the unusually 
wet spring and constant rain having so saturated the whole 
country that it was necessary to bridge every water-course, 
and, for days together, our usual march averaged only five or 
six miles. Finding that at such a rate of travel it would be 
impossible to comply with your instructions, I determined at 
this place to divide the party, and, leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick 
with twenty-five men in charge of the provisions and heavier 
baggage of the camp, to proceed myself in advance, with a 
light party of fifteen men, taking with me the howitzer and the 
light wagon which carried the instruments. 

Accordingly, on the morning of the 16th, the parties sepa- 
rated : and, bearing a little out from the river, with a view of 
heading some of the numerous affluents, after a few hours' 
travel over somewhat broken ground, we entered upon an ex- 
tensive and high level prairie, on which we encamped towards 
evening at a little stream, where a single dry Cottonwood af- 
forded the necessary fuel for preparing supper. Among a 
variety of grasses which to-day made their first appearance, I 
noticed bunch-grass, (fesluca,) and butfalo-grass, (seskria dac- 
iyloides.) Aniorpha canescens [lead plant) continued the char- 
acteristic plant of the country, and a narrow. leaved lathtirus 
occurred during the morning, in beautiful patches. Sida cocci- 
Ilea occurred frequently, with a psoralen near psoralea floribim- 
da, and u number of plants not hitherto met, just verging into 
bloom. The water on which we had encamped belonged to 
Solomon's fork of the Smoky-hill river, along whose tributaries 
we continued to travel for several days. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 129 

The country afforded us an excellent road, the route being 
generally over high and very level prairies; and we met with 
no other delay than being frequently obliged to bridge one of the 
numerous streams, which were well timbered with ash, elm, 
Cottonwood, and a very large oak — the latter being occasion- 
ally five and six feet in diameter, with a spreading summit. 
Sida coccinea is very frequent in vermilion-colored patches on 
the high and low prairie ; and I remarked that it has a very 
pleasant perfume. 

The wild sensitive plant {schrankia anguslata) occurs fre- 
quently, generally on the dry prairies, in valleys of streams, 
and frequently on the broken prairie bank. I remark that 
the leaflets close instantly to a very light touch. Amorpha, 
with the same psoralea, and a dwarf species of lupinus, are the 
characteristic plants. 

On the 19th, in the afternoon, we crossed the Pawnee road 
to the Arkansas, and traveling a few miles onward, the mo- 
notony of the prairies was suddenly dispelled by the appear- 
ance of five or six buffalo bulls, forming a vanguard of im- 
mense herds, among which we were traveling a kv/ days af- 
terwards. Prairie dogs were seen for the first time during 
the day ; and we had the good fortune to obtain an antelope 
for supper. Our elevation had now increased to 1,900 feet. 
Sida coccinea was the characteristic on the creek bottoms, and 
buffalo grass is becoming abundant on the higher parts of the 
ridges. 

21st. — During the forenoon w^e traveled up a branch of the 
creek on which we had encamped, in a broken country, where, 
however, the dividing ridges always afforded a good road. 
Plants were few ; and with the short sward of the bulTalo- 
grass, which now prevailed everywhere, giving to the prai- 
ries a smooth and mossy appearance, were mingled frequent 
patches of a beautiful red grass, {aristida pallens,) which had 
made its appearance only within the last few days. 

We halted to noon at a solitary cottonwood in a hollow, 
near which was killed the first buffalo, a large old bull. 

Antelope appeared in bands during the day. Crossing here 
to the affluents of the Republican, we encamped on a fork, 



130 CAPT. Tremoxt's narrative. [June, 

about forty feet wide and one foot deep, flowing with a swift 
current over a sandy bed, and well wooded with ash-leaved 
maple, {negundo fraxinifolium,) elm, cotton wood, and a few 
white oaks. We were visited in the evening by a very vio- 
lent storm, accompanied by wind, lightning, and thunder ; a 
cold rain fulling in torrents. According to the barometer, our 
elevation was 2,130 feet above the gulf. 

At noon, on the 23d, we descended into the valley of a prin- 
cipal fork of the Republican, a beautiful stream with a dense 
border of wood, consisting principally of varieties of ash, forty 
feet wide and four deep. It was musical with the notes of 
many birds, which, from the vast expanse of silent prairie 
around, seemed all to have collected here. We continued 
during the afternoon our route along the river, which was 
populous with prairie dogs, (the bottoms being entirely occu- 
pied with their villages,) and late in the evening encamped on 
its banks. The prevailing timber is a blue-foliaged ash, [frax- 
inus, near F. Americana,) and ash-leaved maple. With these 
were fraxinus Americana, Cottonwood, and long-leaved willow. 
We gave to this stream tlie name of Prairie Dog river. Ele- 
vation 2,350 feet. Our road on the 2r>th lay over high smooth 
ridges, 3,100 feet above the sea ; bullalo in great numbers, 
absolutely covering the face of the country. At evening wc 
encamped within a few miles of the main Republican, on a 
little creek, whore the air was fragrant with the perfume of 
arlemisia filifolia, which we here saw for the first time, and 
which was now in bloom. Shortly after leaving our encamp- 
ment on the 26th, we found suddenly that the nature of the 
country had entirely changed. Bare sand-hills everywhere 
surrounded us in the undulating ground along which we were 
moving, and the plants peculiar to a sandy soil made their 
appearance in abundance. A few miles further we entered 
the valley of a large stream, afterwards known to be the Re- 
publican fork of the Kansas, whose shallow waters, with a 
depth of only a few inches, were spread out over a bed of yel- 
lowish white sand 001) yards wide. With the exception of one 
or two distant and detached groves, no timber of any kind was 
to be seen ; and the features of the country assumed a desert 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narkative. 131 

character, with which the broad river, struggling for existence 
among the quicksands along the treeless banks, was strikingly 
in keeping. On the opposite side, the broken ridges assumed 
almost a mountainous appearance ; and fording the stream, 
we continued on our course among these ridges, and encamp- 
ed late in the evening at a little pond of very bad water, from 
which we drove away a herd of buffalo that were standing in 
and about it. Our encampment this evening was 3,500 feet 
above the sea. We traveled now for several days through a 
broken and dry sandy region, about 4,000 feet above the sea, 
where there were no running streams ; and some anxiety was 
constantly felt on account of the uncertainty of water, which 
was only to be found in small lakes that occurred occasional- 
ly among the hills. The discovery of these always brought 
pleasure to the camp, as around them were generally green 
flats, which afforded abundant pasturage for our animals ; and 
here we usually collected herds of the buffalo, which now were 
scattered over all the country in countless numbers. 

The soil of bare and hot sands supported a varied and exu- 
berant growth of plants, which were much farther advanced 
than we had previously found them, and whose showy bloom 
somewhat relieved the appearance of general sterility. Cross- 
ing the summit of an elevated and continuous range of rolling 
hills, on the afternoon of the 30th of June, we found ourselves 
overlooking a broad and misty valley, where, about ten miles 
distant, and 1,000 feet below us, the South fork of the Platte 
was rolling magnificently along, swollen with the waters of the 
melting snows. It was in strong and refreshing contrast with 
the parched country from which we had just issued ; and when, 
at night, the broad expanse of water grew indistinct, it almost 
seemed that we had pitched our tents on the shore of the sea. 



JULY. 

Traveling along up the valley of the river, here 4,000 feet 
above the sea, in the afternoon of July 1, we caught a far and 
uncertain view of a faint blue mass in the west, as the sun sank 






182 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

behind it ; and from our camp in the morning, at the mouth of 
Bijou, Long's peak and the neighboring mountains stood out 
into the sky, grand and luminously white, covered to their . 
bases with glittering snow. 

On the evening of the 3d, as we were journeying along the 
partially overflowed bottoms of the Platte, where our passage 
stirred up swarms of musquitoes, we came unexpectedly on an 
Indian, who was perched upon a blulf, curiously watching the 
movements of our caravan. He belonged to a village of Og- 
lallah Sioux, who had lost all their animals in the severity of 
the preceding winter, and were now on their way up the Bijou 
fork to beg horses from the Arapahoc^s, who were hunting buf- 
falo at the head of that river. Several came into our camp at 
noon ; and, as they were hungry, as usual, they were provided 
with buffalo-meat, of which the hunters had brought in an 
abundant supply. 

About noon, on the 4th of July, we arrived at the fort, where 
Mr. St. Vrain received iis with his customary kindness, and 
invited us to join him in a feast which had been prepared in 
honor of the day. 

Our animals were very much worn out, and our stock of 
provisions entirely exhausted, when we arrived at the fort ; 
but I was disappointed in my hope of obtaining reliel', as I found 
it in a very impoverished condition ; and we were able to pro- 
cure only a little unbolted Mexican flour, and some salt, with 
a few pounds of powder and lead. 

As regarded provisions, it did not much matter in a country 
where rarely the day passed without seeing some kind of game, 
and where it was frequently abundant. It was a rare thing to 
lie down hungry, and we had already learned to think bread a 
luxury; but we could not proceed without animals, and our 
own were not capable of prosecuting the journey beyond the 
mountains without relief. 

I had been informed that a large number of mules had re- 
cently arrived at Taos, from Upper California ; and as our 
friend, Mr. Maxwell, was about to continue his journey to tliat 
place, where a portion of his family resided, I engaged him to 
purchase for mo ten or twelve mules, with the understanding 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 133 

that he should pack them with provisions and other necessaries, 
and meet me at the mouth of the Fontaine-qui-bouit, on the 
Arkansas river, to which point I would be led in the course of 
the survey. ' 

Agreeably to his own request, and in the conviction that his 
habits of life and education had not qualified him to endure the 
hard life of a voyageur, I discharged here one of my party, 
Mr. Oscar Sarpy, having furnished him with arms and means 
of transportation to Fort Laramie, where he would be in the 
line of caravans returning to the States. 

At daybreak, on the 6th of July, Maxwell was on his way 
to Taos ; and a few hours after we also had recommenced our 
journey up the Platte, which was continuously timbered with 
Cottonwood and willow, on a generally sandy soil. Passing on 
the way the remains of two abandoned forls, (one of which, 
however, was still in good condition,) we reached, in ten miles. 
Fort Lancaster, the trading establishment of Mr. Lupton. 

His post was beginning to assume the appearance of a com- 
fortable farm : stock, hogs, and cattle, were ranging about on 
the prairie — there were different kinds of poultry ; and there 
was a wreck of a promising garden, in which a considerable 
variety of vegetables had been in a flourishing condition ; but 
it had been almost entirely ruined by the recent high waters. 
I remained to spend with him an agreeable hour, and set off in 
a cold storm of rain, which was accompanied with violent thun- 
der and lightning. We encamped immediately on the river, 
sixteen miles from St. Vrain's. Several Arapahoes, on their 
way to the village which was encamped a few miles above us, 
passed by the camp in the course of the afternoon. Night set 
m stormy and cold, with heavy and continuous rain, which 
lasted until morning. 

7th. — We made this morning an early start, continuing to 
travel up the Platte ; and in a few miles frequent bands of 
horses and mules, scattered for several miles round about, 
indicated our approach to the Arapaho village, which we found 
encamped in a beautiful bottom, and consisting of about one 
hundred and sixty lodges. It appeared extremely populous, 
with a great number of children — a circumstance which indi- 

12 



134 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

cated a regular supply of the means of subsistence. The 
chiefs, who were gathered together at the farther end of the 
village, received us (as probably strangers are always received 
to whom they desire to show respect or regard) by throwing 
their arms around our necks and embracing us. 

It required some skill in horsemanship to keep the saddle 
during the performance of this ceremony, as our American 
horses exhibited for them the same fear they have for a bear, 
or any other wild animal. Having very few goods with me, I 
was only able to make them a meager present, accounting for 
the poverty of the gift by explaining that my goods iiad been 
left with the wagons in charge of Mr. Fitzpatrick, who was 
well known to them as the White Head, or the Broken Hand. 
I saw here, as I had remarked in an Arapaho village the pre- 
ceding year, near the lodges of the chiefs, tall tripods of white 
poles supporting their spears and shields, which showed it to be 
a regular custom. 

Though disappointed in obtaining the presents which had 
been evidently expected, they behaved very courteously ; and, 
after a little conversation, I left them, and, continuing on up 
the river, halted to noon on the blulf, as the bottoms are almost 
inundated ; continuing in the afternoon our route along the 
mountains, which were dark, misty, and shrouded — threatening 
a storm ; the snow peaks sometimes glittering througli the 
clouds beyond the first ridge. 

We surprised a grizzly bear sauntering along the river, 
which, raising himself upon his hind legs, took a deliberate 
survey of us, that did not appear very satisfactory to him, and 
he scrambled into the river and swam to the opposite side. We 
halted for the nicht a little above Cherrv creek : the eveninff 
cloudy, with many musquitoes. Some indiilerent observations 
placed the camp in lat. 39^ 43' 53''', and chronometric long. 
105° 24' 34". 

8lh. — We continued to-day to travel up the Platte : the morn- 
ing pleasant, with a prospect of fairer weather. During the 
f-irenoon our way lay over a more broken country, witli a 
gravelly and sandy surface ; although the inmicdiate bottom 
of the river was a good soil, of a dark and sandy mould, 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 135 

resting upon a stratum of large pebbles, or rolled stones, as at 
Laramie fork. On our right, and apparently very near, but 
probably 8 or 10 miles distant, and two or three thousand feet 
above us, ran the first range of the mountains, like a dark 
corniced line, in clear contrast with the great snowy chain 
wliich, immediately beyond, rose glittering five thousand feet 
above them. We caught this morning a view of Pike's peak; 
but it appeared for a moment only, as clouds rose early over 
the mountains, and shrouded them in mist and rain all the day. 
In the first range were visible, as at the Red Buttes on the 
North fork, very lofty escarpments of red rock. While travel- 
ing through this region, I remarked that always in the morning 
the lofty peaks were visible and bright, but very soon small 
white clouds began to settle around them — brewing thicker and 
thicker as the day advanced, until the afternoon, when the 
thunder began to roll ; and invariably at evening we had more 
or less of a thunder storm. At 11 o'clock, and 21 miles from 
St. Vrain's fort, we reached a point in this southern fork of the 
Platte, where the stream is divided into three forks ; two of 
these (one of them being much the largest) issuing directly 
from the mountains on the west, and forming, with the eastern- 
most branch, a river of the plains. The elevation of this 
point is about 5,o()0 feet above the sea ; this river falling 2,800 
feet in a distance of 316 miles, to its junction with the North 
fork of the Platte. In this estimate, the elevation of the junc- 
tion is assumed as given by our barometrical observations in 
1842. On the easternmost branch, up which we took our way, 
we first came among the pines growing on the top of a very 
high bank, and where we halted on it to noon ; quaking asp 
(populus iremuloides) was mixed with the cottonwood, and 
there were excellent grass and rushes for the animals. 

During the morning there occurred many beautiful flow-ers, 
which we had not hitherto met. Among them, the common 
blue flowering flax made its first appearance ; and a tall and 
handsome species of gilia, with slender scarlet flowers, which 
appeared yesterday for the first time, was very frequent 
to-day. 

We had found very little game since leaving the fort, and 



136 CAPT. Fremont's nabhative. [July, 

provisions began to get unpleasantly scant, as we had had no 
meat for several days ; but towards sundown, when we had 
already made up our minds to sleep another night without 
supper, Lajeunesse had the good fortune to kill a fine deer, 
which he found feeding in a hollow near by ; and as the rain 
began to fall, threatening an unpleasant night, we hurried to 
secure a comfortable camp in the timber. 

To-night the camp fires, girdled with appolas of fine venison, 
looked cheerful in spite of the stormy weather. 

9th. — On account of the low state of our provisions and the 
scarcity of game, I determined to vary our route, and proceed 
several camps to the eastward, in the hope of falling in with 
the buffalo. This route along the dividing grounds between 
the South fork of the Platte and the Arkansas, would also 
afford some additional geographical information. This morn- 
ing, therefore, we turned to the eastward, along the upper 
waters of the stream on which we had encamped, entering a 
country of picturesque and varied scenery ; broken into rocky 
hills of singular shapes ; little valleys, with pure crystal water, 
here leaping swiftly along, and there losing itself in the sands; 
green spots of luxuriant grass, flowers of all colors, and timber 
of different kinds — every thing to give it a varied beauty, ex- 
cept game. To one of these remarkably shaped hills, having 
on the summit a circular flat rock two or three hundred yards 
in circumference, some one gave the name of Poundcake, 
which it has been permitted to retain, as our hungry people 
seemed to think it a very agreeable comparison. In the after- 
noon a bud'alo bull was killed, and we encamped on a small 
stream, near the road which runs from St. Vrain's fort to the 
Arkansas. 

10th. — Snow fell heavily on the mountains during the night, 
and Pike's peak this morning is luminous and grand, covered 
from the summit, as low down as we can see, with glittering 
white. Leaving the encampment at 6 o'clock, we continued 
our easterly course over a rolling country, near to the high 
ridges, which are generally rough and rocky, with a coarse 
conglomerate displayed in masses, and covered with pines. 
The rock is very friable, and it is undoubtedly from its de- 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 137 

composition that the prairies derive their sandy and gravelly 
formation. In six miles we crossed a head-water of the Kioway 
river, on which we found a strong fort and coral that had been 
built in the spring, and halted to noon on the principal branch 
of the river. During the morning our route led over a dark 
and vegetable mould, mixed with sand and gravel, the charac- 
teristic plant being esparcette, (onobrychis saliva,) a species of 
clover which is much used in certain parts of Germany for 
pasturage of stock — principally hogs. It is sown on rocky 
waste ground, which would otherwise be useless, and grows 
very luxuriantly, requiring only a renewal of the seed about 
once in fifteen years. Its abundance here greatly adds to the 
pastoral value of this region. A species of antennaria in 
flower was very common along the line of road, and the creeks 
were timbered with willow and pine. We encamped on Bijou's 
fork, the water of w^hich, unlike the clear streams we had 
previously crossed, is of a whitish color, and the soil of the 
bottom a very hard, tough clay. There was a prairie dog 
village on the bottom, and, in the endeavor to unearth one of 
the little animals, we labored ineffectually in the tough clay 
until dark. After descending, with a slight inclination, until 
it had gone the depth of two feet, the hole suddenly turned at 
a sharp angle in another direction for one more foot in depth, 
when it again turned, taking an ascending direction to the next 
nearest hole. I have no doubt that all their little habitations 
communicate with each other. The greater part of the people 
were sick to-day, and I was inclined to attribute their indis- 
position to the meat of the bull which had been killed the 
previous day. 

11th. — There were no indications of buffalo having been 
recently in the neighborhood ; and, unwilling to travel far- 
ther eastward, I turned this morning to the southward, up 
the valley of Bijou. Esparcetle occurred universally, and 
among the plants on the river I noticed, for the first time du- 
ring this journey, a few small bushes of the absinthe of the 
voyageurs, which is commonly used for firewood, (artemisia 
iridentata.) Yesterday and to-day the road has been orna- 
mented with the showy bloom of a beautiful lupinus, a charac- 

12* 



138 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

teristic in many parts of the mountain region, on which were 
generally great numbers of an insect with very bright colors, 
(litta vesicaloria.) 

As we were riding quietly along, eagerly searching every 
hollow in search of game, we discovered, at a little distance iu 
the prairie, a large grizzly bear, so busily engaged in digging 
roots that he did not perceive us until we were galloping down 
a little hill fifty yards from him, when he charged upon us with 
such sudden energy that several of us came near losing our 
saddles. Being wounded, he commenced retreating to a rocky 
piny ridge near by, from whicii we were not able to cut him 
off, and we entered the timber with him. The way was very 
much blocked up with fallen timber ; and we kept up a run- 
ning fight for some time, animated by the bear charging among 
the horses. He did not fall until after he had received six rifle 
balls. He was miserably poor, and added nothing to our stock 
of provisions. 

We followed the stream to its head in a broken ridge, which, 
according to the barometer, was about 7,500 feet above the 
sea. This is a piny elevation, into which the prairies are 
gathered, and from wliich the waters flow, in almost every di- 
rection, to the Arkansas, Platte, and Kansas rivers ; the latter 
stream having here its remotest sources. Although somewhat 
rocky and broken, and covered with pines, in comparison 
with the neighboring mountains, it scarcely forms an inter- 
ruption to the great prairie plains which sweep up to their 
bases. 

We had an excellent view of Pike's peak from this camp, at 
the distance of forty miles. This mountain barrier presents 
itself to travelers on the plains, which sweep almost directly 
to its l)ascs — an immense and comparatively smootii and gnissy 
prairie, in very strong contrast with tiie black masses of timber, 
and the glittering snow above them. With occasional exceptions, 
comparatively so very snmll as not to require mention, these 
prairies are every wiicre covered with a close and vigorous growth 
of a groat variety of grasses, among which the most abundant 
is the buflalo grass, {sc.s/frin (lucli/hidcs.) Between the Platte 
and Arkansas rivers, that part of this region which forms the 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 139 

basin drained by the waters of the Kansas, with which "our 
operations made us more particularly acquainted, is based upon 
a formation of calcareous rocks. The soil of all this country 
is excellent, admirably adapted to agricultural purposes, and 
would support a large agricultural and pastoral population. A 
glance at the map, along our several lines of travel, will show 
you that this plain is watered by many streams. Throughout 
the western half of the plain, these are shallow, with sandy 
beds, becoming deeper as they reach the richer lands ap- 
proaching the Missouri river ; they generally have bottom 
lands, bordered by blufls varying from fitly to five hundred 
feet in height. In all this region the timber is entirely con- 
fined to the streams. In the eastern half, where the soil is a 
dee{), rich, vegetable mould, retentive of rain and moisture, it 
is of vigorous growth, and of many different kinds ; and 
throughout the western half it consists entirely of various spe- 
cies of Cottonwood, which deserves to be called the tree of the 
desert — growi^ig in sandy soils, where no other tree will grow — 
pointing out the existence of water, and furnishing to the trav- 
eler fuel, and food for his animals. Add to this that the west- 
ern border of the plain is occupied by the Sioux, Arapaho, and 
Cheyenne nations, with the Pawnees and other half-civilized 
tribes in its eastern limits, for whom the intermediate country 
is a war-ground, and you will have a tolerably correct idea of the 
appearance and condition of the country. Descending a some- 
what precipitous and rocky hillside among the pines, which 
rarely appear elsewhere than on the ridge, we encamped at its 
foot, where there were several springs, which you will find 
laid down upon the map as one of the extreme sources of the 
Smoky Hill fork of the Kansas. From this place the view ex- 
tended over the Arkansas valley, and the Spanish peaks in the 
south beyond. As the greater part of the men continued sick, 
I encamped here for the day, and ascertained conclusively, 
from experiments on myself, that their illness was caused by 
the meat of the buffalo bull. 

On the summit of the ridge, near the camp, were several 
rock-built f()rts, which in front were very difficult of approach, 
and in the rear were protected by a precipice entirely beyond 



140 cAPT. fremonU^p narrative. [July, 

the reach of a rifle-ball. The evening was tolerably clear, 
with a temperature at sunset of 63°. Elevation of the camp 
seven thousand and three hundred feet. 

Turning the next day to the southwest, we reached, in the 
course of the morning, the wagon-road to the settlements on the 
Arkansas river, and encamped in the afternoon on the Fori- 
Imne-qui-houit (or Boiling Spring) river, where it was fifty feet 
wide, with a swift current. I afterwards found that the spring 
and river owe their names to the bubbling of the etTervescing 
gas in the former, and not to the temperature of the water, 
which is cold. During the morning a tall species of gilia, with 
a slender white flower, was characteristic ; and, in the latter 
part of the day, another variety of esparcette, (wild clover,) 
having the flower white, was equally so. We had a fine sun- 
set of golden brown ; and, in the evening, a very bright moon, 
with the near mountains, made a beautiful scene. Thermom- 
eter, at sunset, was 69°, and our elevation above the sea 5,800 
feet. 

13th. — The morning was clear, with a northwesterly breeze, 
and the thermometer at sunrise at 46°. There were no clouds 
along the mountains, and the morning sun showed very clear- 
ly their rugged character. 

We resumed our journey very early down the river, follow- 
ing an extremely good lodge-trail, which issues by the liead of 
this stream from the bayou Salade, a high mountain valley be- 
hind Pike's peak. The soil along the road was sandy and 
gravelly, and the river well timbered. We halted to noon 
under the shade of some fine large cottonwoods, our animals 
luxuriating on rushes, (rquisclnm hyemah,) which, along this 
river, were remarkably abundant. A variety of cactus made 
its appearance, and among several strange plants were numer- 
ous and beautiful clusters of a plant resembling mirabilis jala- 
pa, with a handsome convolvulus I had not hitherto seen, 
(calystegia .) In the afternoon we passed near the encampment 
of a hunter named Maurice, who had been out into the plains 
in pursuit of bufl'alo calves, a number of which I saw among 
some domestic cattle near his lodge. Shortly afterwards, a 
party of mountaineers galloped up to us — fine-looking and 



1843. J CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 141 

hardy men, dressed in skins, and mounted on good fat horses ; 
among them were several Connecticut men, a portion of 
Wyeth's party, whom I had seen the year before, and others 
were men from the western states. 

Continuing down the river, we encamped at noon on the 
14th, at its mouth, on the Arkansas river. A short distance 
above our encampment, on the left bank of the Arkansas, is a 
pueblo, (as the Mexicans call their civilized Indian villages,) 
where a number of mountaineers, who had married Spanish 
women in the valley of Taos, had collected together and 
occupied themselves in farming, carrying on at the same time 
a desultory Indian trade. They were principally Americans, 
and treated us with all the rude hospitality their situation ad- 
mitted ; but as all commercial intercourse with New Mexico 
was now interrupted, in consequence of Mexican decrees to 
that effect, there was nothing to be had in the way of provis- 
ions. They had, however, a fine stock of cattle, and furnished 
us an abundance of excellent milk. I learned here that Max- 
well, in company with two other men, had started for Taos on 
the morning of the 9th, but that he would probably fall into 
the hands of the Utah Indians, commonly called the Spanish 
Yutes. As Maxwell had no knowledge of their being in the 
vicinity when he crossed the Arkansas, his chance of escape 
was very doubtful ; but I did not entertain much apprehension 
for his life, having great confidence in his prudence and cour- 
age. I was further informed that there had been a popular 
tumult among the pueblos, or civilized Indians, residing near 
Taos, against the '^foreigners'' of that place, in which they had 
plundered their houses and ill-treated their families. Among 
those whose property had been destroyed, was Mr. Beaubien, 
father-in-law of Maxwell, from whom I had expected to ob- 
tain supplies, and who had been obliged to make his escape to 
Santa Fe. 

By this position of affairs, our expectation of obtaining sup- 
plies from Taos was cut off. I had here tlie satisfaction to 
meet our good buffalo-hunter of 1842, Christopher Carson, 
whose services I considered myself fortunate to secure again ; 
and as a reinforcement of mules was absolutely necessary, I 



14"2 cAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

dispatclirfl him imnicdiatelv, with an account of our necessi- 
ties, to Mr. Charles Bent, whose principal post is on the Ar- 
kansas river, about seventy-live miles below Fontaine-qui-bouit. 
He was directed to proceed from that post by the nearest route 
across the country, and meet me, with- what animals lie should 
be able to obtain, at St. Vrain's fort. I also admitted into the 
party Charles Towns, a native of St. Louis, a serviceable man, 
with many of the qualities of a good voyageur. According to 
our observations, the latitude of the mouth of the river is 38° 
15' 23'''', its longitude 104=' 58' 30''', and its elevation above 
the sea 4,880 feet. 

On the morninjj of the 16th, the time for Maxwell's arrival 
having expired, we resumed our journey, leaving for him a 
note, in which it was stated that I would wait for him at St. 
Vrain's fort, until the morning of the 26th, in the event that he 
should succeed in his commission. Our direction was up the 
Boiling Spring river, it being my intention to visit the cele- 
brated springs from which the river takes its name, and which 
are on its upper waters, at the foot of Pike's peak. Our ani- 
mals fared well while we were on this stream, there being 
everywhere a great abundance of prc/e. Jpomea lepiophylla^ 
in bloom, was a characteristic plant along the river, generally 
in large bunches, with two to five flowers on each. Beautiful 
clusters of the plant resembling mirahUis jalapa were numer- 
ous, and glycyrrhiza Icpidota was a characteristic of the hot- 
toms. Currants nearly ripe were abundant, and among the 
shrubs which covered the bottom was a very luxuriant growth 
of chenopodiaceous shrubs, four to six feet high. On the af- 
ternoon of the 17th we entered among the broken ridges at the 
foot of the mountains, where the river made several forks. 
Leaving the camp to follow slowly, I rode ahead in the after- 
noon in search of the springs. In the mean time, the clouds, 
which had been gathered all the afternoon over the mountains, 
began to roll down their sides ; and a storm so violent burst 
upon me, that it appeared I had entered the storehouse of the 
thunder-storms. I continued, however, to ride along up the 
river until about sunset, and was beginning to be doubtful of 
finding the springs before the next day, when I came suddenly 



1843.] CAPT. fuejiont's narrative 143 

upon a large smooth rock, about twenty yards in diameter, 
where the water from several springs was bubbling and boil- 
ing up in the midst of a white incrustation, with which it had 
covered a portion of the rock. As this did not correspond with 
the description given me by the hunters^ I did not stop to taste 
the water, but dismounting, walked a little way up the river, 
and, passing through a narrow thicket of shrubbery bordering 
the stream, stepped directly upon a huge white rock, at the 
foot of which the river, already become a torrent, foamed 
along, broken by a small fall. A deer which had been drink- 
ing at the spring was startled by my approach, and, springing 
across the river, bounded otT up the mountain. In the upper 
part of the rock, which had apparently been formed by deposi- 
tion, was a beautiful white basin, overhung by currant bushes, 
in which the cold clear water bubbled up, kept in constant mo- 
tion by the escaping gas, and overflowing the rock, which it had 
almost entirely covered with a smooth crust of glistening white. 
I had all day refrained from drinking, reserving myself for the 
spring ; and as I could not well be more wet than the rain had 
already made me, I lay down by the side of the basin, and 
drank heartily of the delightful water. The spring is situated 
immediately at the foot of lofty mountains, beautifully timber- 
ed, wliich sweep closely round, shutting up the little valley in 
a kind of cove. As it was beginning to grow dark, I rode quickly 
down the river, on which I found the camp a few miles below. 

The morning of the 1.8th was beautiful and clear; and, all 
the people being anxious to drink of these famous waters, we 
encamped immediately at the springs, and spent there a very 
pleasant day. On the opposite side of the river is another lo- 
cality of springs, which are entirely of the same nature. The 
water has a very agreeable taste, which Mr. Preuss found very 
much to resemble that of the famous Selter springs in the grand 
duchy of Nassau, a country famous for wine and mineral wa- 
ters ; and it is almost entirely of the same character, though 
still more agreeable than that of the famous Bear springs, near 
Bear river of the Great Salt lake. The following is an analy- 
sis of an incrustation with which the water had covered a piece 
of wood lying on the rock : 



144 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 



Carbonate of lime, 92-25 

Carbonate of magnesia, ...... l-ai 

Sulphate of lime, j 

Chloride of calcium, >..-.-- -23 

Chloride of magnesia, * 

Silica, - - , 1-50 

Vegetable matter, ....... -20 

Moisture and loss, - - - - - - -4-61 

10000 

At eleven o'clock, when the temperature of the air was 
73°, that of the water in this was 60-5^ ; and that of the upper 
spring, which issued from the flat rock, more exposed to tiie sun, 
was 69°. At sunset, when the temperature of the air was 66°, 
that of the lower springs was 58°, and that of the upper 61°. 

19th. — A beautiful and clear morning, with a slight breeze 
from the northwest ; the temperature of the air at sunrise be- 
ing 57-5°. At this time the temperature of the lower spring 
was .57*8°, springs was 58°, and that of the upper 54-3-. 

The trees in the neighborhood were birch, willow, pine, and 
an oak resembling quercus alba. In the shrubbery along the 
river are currant bushes, {ribes,) of which the fruit has a sin- 
gular piny flavor ; and on the mountain side, in a red gravelly 
soil, is a remarkable coniferous tree, (perhaps an abics,) having 
the leaves singularly long, broad and scattered, with bushes of 
spircBa aricpfoUa. By our observations, this place is 6,350 
feet above the sea, in latitude 38° 52' 10", and longitude 
10.5° 22M5". 

Resuming our journey on this morning, we descended the 
river, in order to reach the mouth of the eastern fork, which I 
propo.scd to ascend. The left bank of the river here is very 
much broken. There is a handsome little bottom on the right, 
and both banks are exceedingly picturesque — strata of red 
rock, in nearly perpendicular walls, crossing the valley from 
north to south. About three miles below the springs, on the 
right bank of the river, is a nearly perpendicular limestone 
rock, presenting a uniformly unbroken surface, twenty lo forty 
feet high, cf)ntaining very great numbers of a large univalve 
shell, which appears to belong to the genus inoccratnus. 

In contact with this, to the westward, was another stratum 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 145 

of limestone, containing fossil shells of a different character ; 
and still higher up on the strean) were parallel strata, consist- 
ing of a compact somewhat cr3'^stalline limestone, and argilla- 
ceous bituminous limestone in thin layers. During the morn- 
ing, we traveled up the eastern fork of the Fontaine-qui-houit 
river, our road being I'oughened by fre^ent deep gullies tim- 
bered with pirte, and halted to noon on a small branch of the 
stream, timbered principally with the narrow-leaved cottonwood, 
(populus angusti folia,) called by the Canadians Hard amcre. On 
a hill near by, were two remarkable columns of a grayish-white 
conglomerate rock, one of which was about twenty feet high, and 
two feet in diameter. They are surmounted by slabs of a dark 
ferruginous conglomerate, forming black caps, and adding very 
much to their columnar effect at a distance. This rock is very 
destructible by the action of the weather, and the hill, of which 
they formerly constituted a part, is entirely abraded. 

A shaft of the gun-carrjage was broken in the afternoon ; 
and we made an early halt, the stream being from twelve to 
twenty feet wide, with clear water. As usual, the clouds had 
gathered to a storm over the mountains, and we had a showery 
evening. At sunset, the thermometer stood at 62°, and our 
elevation above the sea was 6, .530 feet. 

20th. — This morning (as we generally found the mornings 
under these mountains) was very clear and beautiful, and the 
air cool and pleasant, with the thermometer at 44°. We con- 
tinued our march up the stream, along a green sloping bottom, 
between pine hills on the one hand, and the main Black hills 
on the other, towards the ridge which separates the waters of 
the Platte from those of the A rkansas. As we approached the 
diving ridge, the whole valley was radiant with flowers ; blue, 
yellow, pink, white, scarlet, and purple, vie with each other 
in splendor. Esparcctte was one of the highly characteristic 
plants, and a bright-looking flower {gaillardia aristatii) was 
very frequent ; but the most abundant plant along our road to- 
day, \\?^s geranium maculaium, which is the characteristic plant 
on this portion of the diving grounds. Crossing to the waters of 
the Platte, fields of blue flax added to the magnificence of this 
mountain garden ; this was occasionally four feet in height, 

13 



146 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Julv, 

which was a luxuriance of growth that I rarely saw this al- 
most universal plant attain throughout the journey. Continu- 
ing down a branch of the Platte, among high and very steep 
timbered hills, covered with fragments of rock, towards even- 
ing we issued from ihe piny region, and made a late encamp- 
ment near Poundcake%ock, on that fork of the river which we 
had ascended on the 8th of .July. Our animals enjoyed the 
abundant rushes this evening, «as the flies were so bad among 
the pines that they had been much harassed. A deer was 
killed here this evening ; and again the evening was overcast, 
and a collection of brilliant red clouds in the west was follow- 
ed by the customary squall of rain. 

Achillea mi/Iefoliuin (niilfoil) was among the characteristic 
plants of the river bottoms to-day. This was one of the most 
common plants during the whole of our journey, occurring in 
almost every variety of situation. I noticed it on the lowlands 
of the rivers, near the coast of the Pacific, and near to the 
snow among the mountains of the Sierra Nevada. 

During this excursion, we had surveyed to its head one of 
the two princii)al branches of the upper Arkansas, 7.5 miles in 
length, and entirely completed our survey of the South fork of 
the Platte, to the extreme sources of that portion of the river 
which belongs to the plains, and heads in the broken hills- of 
the Arkansas dividing ridge, at the foot of the mountains. 
That portion of its waters which were collected among these 
mountains, it was hoped to explore on our homeward voyage. 

Reaching St. Vrain's fort on the morning of the 23d, we 
foimd Mr. Fitzpatriek and his party in good order and excel- 
lent health, and my true and reliable friend, Kit Carson, who 
had brought with him ten good mules, with the necessary 
pack-saddles. Mr. Fitzpatriek, who had often endured every 
extremity of want during the course of his mountain life, and 
knew well the value of provisions in this country, had watch- 
ed over our stock with jealous vigilance, and there was an 
abundance of flour, rice, sugar, and coffee, in the camp; and 
again we fared luxuriously. Meat was, however, very scarce; 
and two very small pigs, which wo obtained at the fort, did 
not go far among forty men. Mr. Fitzpatriek had been 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative, 147 

here a week, during which time his men had been occupied in 
refitting the camp ; and the repose had been very beneficial to 
his animals, which were now in tolerably good condition. 

I had been able to obtain no certain information in regard 
to the character of the passes in this portion of the Rocky 
Mountain range, which had always been represented as im- 
practicable for carriages, but the exploration of which was in- 
cidentally contemplated by my instructions, with the view of 
finding some convenient point of passage for the road of emi- 
gration, which would enable it to reach, on a more direct line, 
the usual ford of the Gi'eat Colorado — a place considered as 
determined by the nature of the country beyond that river. It 
is singular, that immediately at the foot of the mountains, I 
could find no one sufficiently acquainted with them to guide 
us to the plains at their western base ; but the race of trap- 
pers, who formerly lived in their recesses, has almost entirely 
disappeared — dwindled to a few scattered individuals — some 
one or two of whom are regularly killed in the course of each 
year by the Indians. You will remember, that in the previous 
year I brought with me to their village near this post, and hos- 
pitably treated on the way, several Cheyenne Indians, whom 
I met on the Lower Platte. Shortly after their arrival here, 
these were out with a party of Indians, (themselves the princi- 
pal men,) which discovered a few trappers in the neighboring 
mountains, whom they immediately murdered, although one 
of them had been nearly thirty years in the country, and was 
perfectly well known, as he had grown gray among them. 

Through this portion of the mountains, also, are the cus- 
tomary roads of the war parties going out against the Utah 
and Shoshonee Indians ; and occasionally parties from the 
Crow nation make their way down to the southward along 
this chain, in the expectation of surprising some straggling 
lodges of their enemies. Shortly before our arrival, one of 
their parties had attacked an Arapaho village in the vicinity, 
which they had found unexpectedly strong ; and their assault 
was turned into a rapid flight and a hot pursuit, in which they 
had been compelled to abandon the animals they had rode 
and escape on their war-horses. 



148 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jult, 

Into this uncertain and dangerous region, small parties of 
three or four trappers, who now could collect together, rarely 
ventured ; and consequently it was seldom visited and little 
known. Having determined to try the passage by a pass 
through a spur of the mountains made by the Cache-d-la-Pou- 
dre river, which rises in the high bed of mountains around 
Long's peak, I thought it advisable to avoid any encumbrance 
which would occasion detention, and accordingly again sepa- 
rated the party into two divisions — one of which, under the 
command of Mr. Fitzpatrick, was directed to cross the plains 
to the mouth of Laramie river, and, continuing thence its route 
along the usual emigrant road, meet me at Fort Hall, a post 
belonging to the Fludson Bay Company, and situated on Snake 
river, as it is commonly called in the Oregon Territory, al- 
thougli better known to us as Lewis's fork of the Columbia. 
The latter name is there restricted to one of the upper forks 
of the river. 

Our Delaware Indians having determined to return to their 
homes, it became necessary to provide this party with a good 
hunter; and I accordingly engaged in that capacity Alexander 
Godev, a young man about 25 years of age, who had been in 
this country six or seven years, all of which time had been 
actively employed in hunting for the support of the posts, or 
in solitary trading expeditions among the Indians. In courage 
and professional skill lie was a formidable rival to Carson, and 
constantly afterwards was among the best and most efficient of 
the party, and in difficult situations was of incalculable value. 
Hiram Powers, one of the men belonging to Mr, Fitzpatrick's 
party, was discharged at this place. 

A French engagf', at Lupton's fort, had been shot in the 
back on the 4th of July, and died during our absence to the 
Arkansas. The wife of the murdered man, an Indian woman 
of the Snake nation, desirous, like Naomi of old, to return to 
her pco|)le, roqiicsteil and r)l)tained permission to travel Avith 
my party to the ruighborhood of Bear river, where she expected 
to meet with some of tlieir villages. Happier than the Jewish 
widow, she carried witli her two children, pretty little halt- 
breeds, who added much to the liveliness of the camp. Her 



1843,] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 149 

baggage was carried on five or six pack-horses ; and I gave her 
a small tent, for which I no longer had any use, as I had 
procured a lodge at the fort. 

For my own party I selected the following men, a number 
of whom old associations had rendered agreeable to me : 

Charles Preuss, Christopher Carson, Basil Lajeunesse, Fran- 
cois Badcau, J. B. Bernier, Louis Menard, Raphael Proue, 
Jacob Dodson, Louis Zindel, Henry Lee, J. B. Derosier, Fran- 
cois Lajeunesse, and Auguste Vasquez. 

By observation, the latitude of the post is 40° 16' 33'^, and 
its longitude 105° 12' 23", depending, with all the other lon- 
gitudes along this portion of the line, upon a subsequent occul- 
tation of September 13, 1843, to which they are referred by 
the chronometer. Its distance from Kansas landing, by the 
road we traveled, (which, it will be remembered, was very 
winding along the lower Kansas river,) was 750 miles. The 
rate of the chronometer, determined b}'' observations at this 
place for the interval of our absence, during this month, 
was 33-72''', which you will hereafter see did not sensibly 
change during the ensuing month, and remained nearly con- 
stant during the remainder of our journey across the continent. 
This was the rate used in referring to St. Vrain's fort, the 
longitude between that place and the mouth of the Foniaine- 
qui-bouit. 

Our various barometrical observations, which are better 
worthy of confidence than the isolated determination of 1842, 
give, for the elevation of the fort above the sea, 4,930 feet. 
The barometer here used was also a better one, and less liable 
to derangement. 

At the end of two days, which was allowed to my ani- 
mals for necessary repose, all the arrangements had been 
completed, and on the afternoon of the 26th we resumed our 
respective routes. Some little trouble was experienced in 
crossing the Platte, the waters of which were still kept up by 
rains and melting snow ; and having traveled only about four 
miles, we encamped in the evening on Thompson's creek, where 
we were very much disturbed by musquitoes. 

The following days we continued our march westward over 

13* 



150 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

comparative plains, and, fording the Cache-a-la-Poudre on the 
morning of the 28th, entered the Black hills, and nooned on 
this stream in the mountains beyond them. Passing over a 
fine large bottom in the afternoon, we reached a place where 
the river was shut up in the hills; and, ascending a ravine, 
made a laborious and very difiicult passage around by a gap, 
striking the river again about dusk. A little labor, however, 
would remove this difficulty, and render the road to this point 
a very excellent one. The evening closed in dark with rain, 
and the mountains looked gloomy. 

*29th. — Leaving our encampment about seven in the morn- 
ing, we traveled until three in the afternoon along the river, 
which, for the distance of about six miles, runs directly thfough 
a spur of the main mountains. 

We were compelled by the nature of the ground to cross 
the river eight or nine times, at difficult, deep, and rocky 
fords, the stream running with great force, swollen by the 
rains — a true mountain torrent, only forty or fifty feet wide. 
It was a mountain valley of the narrowest kind — almost a 
chasm — and the scenery very wild and beautiful. Towering 
mountains rose round about ; their sides sometimes dark with 
forests of pine, and sometimes with lofty precipices, washed 
by the river ; while below, as if they indemnified themselves 
in luxuriance for the scanty space, the green river-bottom was 
covered with a wilderness of flowers, their tall spikes some- 
times rising above our heads as we rode among them. A pro- 
fusion of blossoms on a white flowering vine, {clemntis htsianthi,) 
which was abundant along the river, contrasted handsomely 
with tlie green foliage of the trees. The mountains appeared 
to be compoi^ed of a greeni.sli-gray and red granite, which in 
some places appeared to be in a state of decomposition, making 
a red soil. 

The stream was wooded with cottonwood, box-elder, and 
cherry, with currant and serviceberry bushes. After a some- 
wliat laborious day, during whieli it had rained inccs-santly, 
we encamped near the end of the pa.ss at the mouth of a small 
creek, in si^lit of the great Laramie j)lains. It continued to 
rain heavilv, and at evening tiie mountuins were hid in mists ; 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 151 

but there was no lack of wood, and the large fires we made to 
dry our clothes were very comfortable ; and at niglit the iiunters 
came in with a fine deer. Rougli and difficult as we found the 
pass to-day, an excellent road may be made with a little labor. 
Elevation of the camp 5,540 feet, and distance from St. Vrain's 
fort 56 miles. 

30th. — The day was bright again ; the thermometer at sun- 
rise 52° ; and leaving our encampment at eight o'clock, in 
about half a mile we crossed the CacJie-d-la-Poudre river for 
the last time ; and, entering a smoother country, we traveled 
along a kind of vallon, bounded on the right by red buttes and 
precipices, while to the left a high rolling country extended to 
a range of the Black hills, beyond which rose the great moun- 
tains around Long's peak. 

By the great quantity of snow visible among tliem, it had 
probably snowed heavily there the previous day, while it had 
rained on us in the valley. 

We halted at noon on a small branch ; and in the afternoon 
traveled over a high country, gradually ascending towards a 
range of buttes, or higji hills covered with pines, which forms 
the dividing ridge between the waters we had left and those of 
Laramie river. 

Late in the evening we encamped at a spring of cold water, 
near the summit of the ridge, having increased our elevation 
to 7,520 feet. During the day we had traveled 24 miles. By 
some indifferent observations, our latitude is 41° 02' 19''''. A 
species of hedcome was characteristic along the whole day's 
route. 

Emerging from the mountains, we entered a region of bright, 
fair weather. In my experience in this country, I was forci- 
bly impressed with the different character of tlie climate on 
opposite sides of the Rocky Mountain range. The vast prairie 
plain on the east is like the ocean ; the rain and clouds from 
the constantly evaporating snow of the mountains rushing down 
into the heated air of the plains, on which you w^ill have occa- 
sion to remark the frequent storms of rain we encountered du- 
ring our journey. 

31st. — The morning was clear; temperature 48°. A fine 



152 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jcly, 

rolling road, among piny and grassy hills, brought us this morn- 
ing into a large trail where an Indian village had rcctiitly 
passed. The weather was pleasant and cool ; we were dis- 
turbed by neither musquitoes nor flies ; and the country was 
certainly extremely beautiful. The slopes and broad ravines 
were absolutely covered with fields of flowers of the most ex- 
quisitely beautiful colors. Among those whicii had not hith- 
erto made their appearance, and which here were character- 
istic, was a new delphinium, of a green and lustrous metallic 
blue color, mingled with compact fields of several bright-col- 
ored varieties of astragalus, which were crowded together in 
splendid profusion. This trail conducted us, through a remark- 
able defile, to a little timbered creek, up which we wound our 
way, passing by a singular and massive wall of dark-red gran- 
ite. The formation of the country is a red feldspathic granite, 
overlaying a decomposing mass of the same rock, forming the 
soil of all this region, which everywhere is red and gravelly, 
and appears to be of a great floral fertility. 

As we emerged on a small tributary of the Laramie river, 
coming in sight of its principal stream, the flora became per- 
fectly magnificent ; and we congratulated ourselves, as we 
rode along our pleasant road, that we had substitutcnl this for 
the uninteresting country between Laramie hills and the Sweet 
Water valley. We had no meat for supper last night or break- 
fast this morning, and were glad to see Carson come in at noon 
witli a good antelope. 

A meridian observation of the sun placed us in latitude 
41° 04' 06'''. In the evening we encamped on the Laramie 
river, which is here very thinly timbered with scattered groups 
of Cottonwood at considerable intervals. From our camp, we 
are able to distinguish tiie gorges, in which arc the sources of 
Cache-a-la-Poudrc and Laramie riv<'rs ; and the Medicine Bow 
mountain, towards the point of which we are directing our 
course this afternoon, has been in sight the greater part of the 
day. By observation the latitude was ^\^ l.V 02'", and longi- 
tude 106° 16' 54". The .same beautiful flora continued till 
about four in the aftoriUKan, when it suddonlv disappeared, with 
the red soil, which became sandy, and of a wiiitish-gray color. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 153 

The evening was tolerably clear ; temperature at sunset 64°. 
The day's journey was 30 miles. 



AUGUST. 

1st. — The morning was calm and clear, with sunrise tem- 
perature at 42°. We traveled to-day over a plain, or open 
rolling country, at the foot of the Medicine Bow mountain ; 
the soil in the morning being sandy, with fragments of rock 
abundant, and in the afternoon, when we approached closer 
to the mountain, so stony that we made but little vvay. The 
beautiful plants of yesterday reappeared occasionally ; flax in 
bloom occurred during the morning, and esparcette in luxu- 
riant abundance was a characteristic of the stony ground in the 
afternoon. The camp was roused into a little excitement by 
a chase after a buffalo bull, and an encounter with a war 
party of Sioux and Cheyenne Indians about 30 strong. Hares 
and antelope were seen during the day, and one of the latter 
was killed. The Laramie peak was in sight this afternoon. 
The evening was clear, with scattered clouds ; temperature 
62°. The day's journey was 26 miles. 

2d. — Temperature at sunrise 52°, and scenery and weather 
made our road to-day delightful. The neighboring mountain 
is thickly studded with pines, intermingled with the brighter 
foliage of aspens, and occasional spots like lawns between the 
patches of snow among the pines, and here and there on the 
heights. Our route below lay over a comparative plain, cov- 
ered with the same brilliant vegetation, and the day was clear 
and pleasantly cool. During the morning, we crossed many 
streams, clear and rocky, and broad grassy valleys, of a strong 
black soil, washed down from the mountains, and producing 
excellent pasturage. These were timbered with the red wil- 
low and long-leaved Cottonwood, mingled with aspen, as we 
approached the mountain more nearly towai'ds noon. Espar- 
cette was a characteristic, and flax occurred frequently in 
bloom. We halted at noon on the most western fork of Lara- 



154 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

mie river — a handsome stream about sixty feet wide and two 
feet deep, witli clear water and a swift current, over a bed 
composed entirely of boulders or roll-stones. There was a 
large open bottom here, on which were many lodge poles lying 
about : and in the edge of the surrounding timber were three 
strong forts, that appeared to have been recently occupied. At 
this place I became first acquainted with the yampali, {ancthum 
graveolens,) which I found our Snake woman engaged in dig- 
ging in the low timbered bottom of the creek. Among the 
Indians along the Rocky Mountains, and more particularly 
among the Shoshonee or Snake Indians, in whose territory it 
is very abundant, this is considered the best among the roots 
used for food. To us it was an interesting plant — a little link 
between the savage and civilized life. Here, among the In- 
dians, its root is a common article of food, which they take 
pleasure in ollering to strangers ; while with us, in a consider- 
able portion of America and Europe, the seeds are used to 
flavor soup. It grows more abundantly, and in greater luxu- 
riance, on one of the neighboring tributaries of the Colorado, 
than in any other part of this region ; and on that stream, to 
which the Snakes are accustomed to resort every year to pro- 
cure a supply of their favorite plant, they have bestowed the 
name of Yampah river. Among the trappers it is generally 
known as Little Snake river ; but in this and other instances, 
where it illustrated the history of the people inhabiting the 
country, I have preferred to retain on the map the aboriginal 
name. By a meridional observation, the latitude is 41*^ 45' 59". 
In the afternoon we took our way directly across the spurs 
from the point of the mountain, where we had several ridges 
to cross ; and, although the road was not rendered bad by tiie 
nature of the ground, it was made extremely rough by the still* 
tough bushes oi arte mis ia tridcniata* in this country commonly 
called sage. 



•The preatcr portion of (.m r-ulpr.. iju. m journry was through a region 
whore this Khnit) ronsliliitod thv tree of Ihc conntr)- ; ami, us it will ol'trn 
be mrntiont'd in occnsional ilesoriptions, the word nrtrmisia only will b« 
used, without the specific name. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 155 

This shrub now began to make its appearance in compact 
fields ; and we were about to quit for a long time this country 
of excellent pasturage and brilliant flowers. Ten or twelve 
buffalo bulls were seen during the afternoon ; and we were 
surprised by the appearance of a large red ox. We gathered 
around him as if he had been an old acquaintance, with all 
our domestic feelings as much awakened as if we had come in 
sight of an old farm-house. He had probably made his escape 
from some party of emigrants on Green river ; and, with a 
vivid remembrance of some old green field, he was pursuing 
the straightest course for the frontier that the country admitted. 
We carried him along with us as a prize ; and, wiien it was 
found in the morning that he had wandered off, I would not 
let him be pursued, for I would rather have gone through a 
starving time of three entire days, than let him be killed after 
he had successfully run the gauntlet so far among the Indians. 
I hav^een told by Mr. Bent's people of an ox born and rais- 
ed at St. Vrain's fort, which made his escape from them at 
Elm grove, near the frontier, having come in that year with 
the wagons. They were on their way out, and saw occasion- 
ally places ^v1lere he had eaten and laid down to rest ; but did 
not see him for about 700 miles, when they overtook him on 
the road, traveling along to the fort, having unaccountably 
escaped Indians and every other mischance. 

We encamped at evening on the principal fork of Medicine 
Bow river, near to an isolated mountain called the Medicine 
Butte, which appeared to be about 1,800 feet above the plain, 
from which it rises abruptly, and was still white, nearly to its 
base, with a great quantity of snow. The streams were tim- 
bered with the long-leaved cottonwood and red willow ; and 
during the afternoon a species of onion was very abundant. I 
obtained here an immersion of the first satellite of Jupiter, 
which, corresponding very nearly with the chronometer, 
placed us in longitude 106° 47' 2W\ The latitude, by obsei'- 
vation, was 41° 37' IG''; elevation above the sea, 7,800 feet, 
and distance from St. Vrain's fort, 147 miles. 

3d. — There was a white frost last night ; the morning is 
clear and cool. We were early on the road, having break- 



156 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

fasted before sunrise, and in a few miles' travel entei-ed the 
pass of the Medicine Butte, through which led a broad traiJ, 
which had been recently traveled by a very large party. Ira- 
mediately in the pass, the road was broken by ravines, and we 
were obliged to clear a way through groves of aspens, which 
generally made their appearance when we reached elevated 
regions. According to the barometer, this was 8,.300 feet ; and 
wiiile we were detained in opening a road, I obtained a meri- 
dional observation of the sun, which gave 41° 35' 48^'' for the 
latitude of the pass. The Medicine Butte is isolated by a 
small tributary of the North fork of the Platte, but the moun- 
tains approach each other very nearly ; the stream running at 
their feet. On the south they are smooth, with occasional 
streaks of pine ; but the butte itself is ragged, with escarp- 
ments of red feldspathic granite, and dark with pines ; the 
snow reaching from the summit to within a few hundred feet 
of the trail. The granite here was more compact and durable 
than that in the formation which we had passed through a few 
days before to the eastward of Laramie. Contiiming our way 
over a plain on the west side of the pass, where the road was 
terribly rough with artemisia, we made our everting encamp- 
ment on the creek, where it took a northern direction, unfavor- 
ably to the course we were pursuing. Bands of buffalo were 
discovered as we came down upon the plain ; and Carson 
brought into the camp a cow which had the fat on the fleece 
two inches thick. Even in this country of rich pasturage and 
abundant game, it is rare that a hunter chances upon a finer 
animal. Our voyage had already been long, but this was the 
first good buffalo meat we had obtained. We traveled to-day 
•JO miles. 

4th. — The morning was clear and calm ; and, leaving the 
creek, we traveled towards the North fork of the Platte, over 
a plain which was rendered rough and broken by ravines. 
With the exception of some thin grasses, the sandy soil here 
was occupied almost exclusively by artemisia, with its usual 
turpentine odor. We had expected to meet with some difficulty 
in crossing the river, but happened to strike it where there was 
a very excellent ford, and halted to noon on the left bank, two 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 157 

hundred miles from St. Vrain's fort. The hunters brought in 
pack-animals loaded with fine meat. According to our imper- 
fect knowledge of the country, there should have been a small 
affluent to this stream a few miles higher up ; and in the after- 
noon we continued our way among the river hills, in the ex- 
pectation of encamping upon it in the evening. The ground 
proved to be so exceedingly difficult, broken up into hills, ter- 
minating in escarpments and broad ravines, five hundred or 
six hundred feet deep, with sides so precipitous that we could 
scarcely find a place to descend, that, towards sunset, I turned 
directly in towards the river, and, after nightfall, entered a sort 
of ravine. We were obliged to feel our way, and clear a road 
in the darkness ; the surface being much broken, and the pro- 
gress of the carriages being greatly obstructed by the artemi- 
sia, which had a luxuriant growth of four to six feet in height. 
We had scrambled along this guUey for several hours, during 
which we had knocked off the carriage-lamps, broken a ther- 
mometer and several small articles, when, fearing to lose some- 
thing of more importance, I halted for the night at ten o'clock. 
Our animals were turned down towards the river, that they 
might pick up what little grass they could find ; and after a 
little search, some water was found in a small ravine, and im- 
proved by digging. We lighted up the ravine with fires of 
artemisia, and about midnight sat down to a supper which we 
were hungry enough to find delightful — although the buffalo- 
meat was crusted with sand, and the coffee was bitter with the 
wormwood taste of the artemisia leaves. 

A successful day's hunt had kept our hunters occupied until 
late, and they slept out, but rejoined us at daybreak, when, 
finding ourselves only about a mile from the river, we followed 
the ravine down, and camped in a cottonwood grove on a beau- 
tiful grassy bottom, where our animals indemnified themselves 
for the scanty fare of the past night. It was quite a pretty 
and pleasant place ; a narrow strip of prairie, about five hun- 
dred yards long, terminated at the ravine where we entered 
by high precipitous hills closing in upon the river, and at the 
upper end by a ridge of low rolling hills. 

In the precipitous bluffs were displayed a succession of 

14 



158 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

strata containinn^ fossil vegetable remains, and several beds of 
coal. In some of tlie beds the coal did not appear to be per- 
fectly mineralized, and in some of the seams it was compact, 
and remarkably lustrous. In these latter places, there were 
also thin Jayers of a very fine white salts, in powder. As we 
had a large supply of meat in the camp, which it was necessary 
to dry, and the surrounding country appeared to be well stocked 
with buffalo, which it was probable, after a day or two, we 
would not .see again until our return to the Mississippi waters, 
I determined to make here a provision of dried meat, which 
would be necessary for our subsistence in the region we were 
about entering, which was said to be nearly destitute of game. 
Scaffolds were accordingly soon erected, fires made, and the meat 
cut into thin slices to be dried; and all were busily occupied, 
when the camp was thrown into a sudden tumult, by a charge 
from about seventy mounted Indians, over the low hills at the up- 
per end of the little bottom. Fortunately, the guard, who was 
between them and our animals, had caught a glimpse of an In- 
dian's head, as he raised himself in his stirrups to look over the 
hill, a moment before he made the charge, and succeeded in turn- 
ing the band into the camp, as the Indians charged into the bottom 
with the usual yell. Before they reached us, the grove on the 
verge of the little bottom was occupied by our people, and the In- 
dians brought to a sudden halt, which they made in time to save 
themselves from a howitzer siiot, which would undoubtedly have 
been very effective in such a compj^ct body ; and further pro- 
ceedings were interrupted by their signs for peace. They 
proved to be a war party of Arapaho and Cheyenne Indians, 
and informed us that they had charged upon the camp under 
the belief that we were hostile Indians, and had discovered 
their mistake only at the moment of the attack — an excuse 
which policy required us to receive as true, though under the 
lull conviction that the display of our little howitzer, and our 
favorable position in the grove, certainly saved our horses, and 
probably ourselves, from their marauding intentions. They 
had been on a war party, and had been defeated, and were 
consequently in the state of mind which aggrnvatCR their innate 
thirst for plunder and blood. Their excuse, however, was 



1843.] CAPT. fre3I0Nt's narrative. 159 

taken in good part, and the usual evidences of friendship inter- 
changed. The pipe went round, provisions were spread, and 
the tobacco and goods furnished the customary presents, which 
they look for even from traders, and much more from govern- 
ment authorities. 

They were returning from an expedition against the Sho- 
shonee Indians, one of wliose villages they had surprised, at 
Bridger's fort, on Ham's fork of Green river, (in the absence 
of the men, who were engaged in an antelope surround,) and 
succeeded in carrying off their horses, and taking several 
scalps. News of the attack reached the Snakes immediately, 
who pursued and overtook them, and recovered their horses ; 
and, in the running fight which ensued, the Arapahoes had 
lost several men killed, and a number wounded, who were 
coming on more slowly with a party in the rear. Nearly all 
the horses they had brought off were the property of the wiiites 
at the fort. A fter remaining until neaVly sunset, they took their 
departure ; and the excitement which their arrival had afforded 
subsided into our usual quiet, a little enlivened by the vigilance 
rendered necessary by the neighborhood of our uncei'tain 
visiters. At noon the thermometer \yas at 75°, at sunset 70°, 
and the evening clear. Elevation above the sea 6,820 feet ; 
latitude 41° 36^ 00^'; longitude 107° 22' 27'^ 

6th. — At sunrise the thermometer was 46°, the morning 
being clear and calm. We traveled to-day over an extremely 
rugged country, barren and uninteresting — nothing to be seen 
but artemisia bushes ; and, in the evening, found a grassy 
spot among the hills, kept green by several springs, where we 
encamped late. Within a few hundred yards was a very 
pretty little stream of clear cool water, whose green banks 
looked refreshing among the dry, rocky hills. The hunters 
brought in a fat mountain sheep, (ovis montana.) 

Our road the next day was through a continued and dense 
field of ortcmisin, which now entirely covered the country in 
such a luxuriant growth that it was difficult and laborious for 
a man on foot to force his way through, and nearly impractica- 
ble for our light carriages. The region through which we 
were traveling was a high plateau, constituting the dividing 



160 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

ridge between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and 
extendiuif to a considerable distance southward, from the neigh- 
borhood of the Table rock, at the southern side of the South 
Pass. Though broken up into rugged and rocky hills of a dry 
and barren nature, it lias nothing of a mountainous character ; 
the small streams which occasionally occur belonging neither 
to the Platte nor the Colorado, but losing themselves either in 
the sand or in small lakes. From an eminence, in the after- 
noon, a mountainous range became visible in the north, in 
which were recognised some rocky peaks belonging to the 
range of the Sweet Water valley ; and, determining to aban- 
don any further attempt to struggle through this almost im- 
practicable country, we turned our course directly north, to- 
wards a puss in the valley of the Sweet Water river. A shaft 
of the gun-carriage was broken during the afternoon, causing 
a considerable delay ; and it was late in an unpleasant even- 
ing before we succeeded in finding a very poor encampment, 
where there was a little water in a deep trench of a creek, and 
some scanty grass among the shrui)s. All the game here con- 
sisted of a few straggling bullulo bulls, and during the day 
there had been but very little grass, except in some green 
spots where it had collected around springs or shallow lakes. 
Within fifty miles of the Sweet Water, the country changed 
into a vast saline plain, in many places extremely level, occa- 
sionally resembling the flat sandy beds of shallow lakes. 
Here the vegetation consisted of a shrubby growth, among 
which were several varieties of chciiopodiaccous plants ; but 
the characteristic shrub was Frcmonlia vermicii/aris, with 
smaller saline shrubs growing with singular luxuriance, and 
in many places holding exclusive possession of the ground. 

On the evening of the 8th we encamped on one of these 
fresh-wafer lakes, which the traveler considers himself fortu- 
nate to find ; and the next day. in latitude, by observation, 42° 
20' 06'^ halted to noon immediattly at the foot of the southern 
side of the range which walls in the Sweet Water valley, on 
the head of a small tributary to that river. 

Continuing in the afternoon our course down the stream, 
which here cuts directly tlirough the ridge, ibrniing a very 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 161 

practicable pass, we entered the valley ; and, after a march 
of about nine miles, encamped on our familiar river, endearpd 
to us by the acquaintance of the previous expedition — the night 
having already closed in whh a cold rain-storm. Our camp 
was about twenty miles above the Devil's gate, which we had 
been able to see in coming down the plain ; and, in the course 
of the night, the clouds broke away around Jupiter for a short 
time, during which we obtained an emersion of the first satel- 
lite, the result of which agreed very nearly with the chronom- 
eter, giving for the mean longitude 107° 50^ 07'^ ; elevation 
above the sea 6,040 feet ; and distance from St. Vrain's fort, 
by the road we had just traveled, 315 miles. t 

Here passes the road to Oregon ; and the broad smooth 
highway, where the numerous heavy wagons of the emigrants 
had entirely beaten and crushed the artemisia, was a happy 
exchange to our poor animals, for the sharp rocks and tough 
shrubs among which they had been toiling so long ; and we 
moved up the valley rapidly and pleasantly. With very little 
deviation from our route of the preceding year, we continued 
up the valley ; and on the evening of the 12th encamped on 
the Sweet Water, at a point where the road turns off'to cross 
to the plains of Green river. The increased coolness of the 
weather indicated that we had attained a greater elevation, 
which the barometer here placed at 7,220 feet ; and during the 
night water froze in the lodge. 

The morning of the 13th was clear and cold, there being a 
white-frost, and the thermometer, a little before sunrise, stand- 
ing at 26-5°. Leaving this encampment, (our last on the wa- 
ters which flow towards the rising sun,) we took our way along 
the upland, towards the dividing ridge which separates the 
Atlantic from the Pacific waters, and crossed it by a road 
some miles further south than the one we had followed on our 
return in 1842. We crossed very near the Table mountain, 
at the southern extremity of the South Pass, which is near 
twenty miles in width, and already traversed by several differ, 
cnt roads. Selecting, as well as 1 could, in the scarcely dis- 
tinguishable ascent, what might be considered the dividing 

ridge in this remarkable depression in the mountain, I took a 

14c 



102 CAPT. Fremont's .\AnRATiVE. [Aug. 

barometrical observation, which gave 7,490 feet for the eleva- 
tion above; the Gulf of Mexico. You will remember that, in 
my report of 1842, I estimated the elevation of this pass at 
about 7,000 feet ; a correct observation with a good barometer 
enables mc to give it with more precision. Its importance, 
as the great gate through which commerce and traveling 
may hereafter pass between the/valley of the Mississippi and 
the North Pacific, justifies a precise notice of its locality and 
distance from leading points, in addition to this statement of its 
el.vation. As stated in the report of l'!*42, its latitude, at the 
point where we crossed, is 42° 24'' 32'^; its longitude 109° 
2G' 00^' ; its distance from the mouth of the Kansas, by the 
common traveling route, 962 miles ; from the mouth of the 
Great Platte, along the valley of that river, according to our 
survey of 1842, 862 miles ; and its distance from St. Louis 
about 400 miles more by the Kansas, and about 700 by 
the Great Platte route ; these additions being steamboat con- 
veyance in both instances. From this pass to the mouth of the 
Oregon is about 1,400 miles by the common traveling route ; 
so that under a general point of view, it may be assumed to be 
about half-way between the Mississippi and the Pacific ocean, 
on the common traveling route. Following a hollow of slight 
and easy descent, in which was very soon formed a little trib- 
utary to the Gulf of California, (for the waters which flow west 
from the South Pass go to this gulf,) we made our usual halt 
four miles from the pass, in latitude, by observation, 42° 19' 
53'''. Entering here the valley of Green river — the great 
Colorado of the West — and inclining very much to the south- 
ward along the streams which form the Sandy river, the road 
led for several days over dry and level uninteresting plains ; 
to which a low scrubby growth of artemisia gave a uniform 
dull grayish color; and on the evening of the loth we en- 
camped in the Mexican territory, on the left bank of Green 
river, 09 miles from the South Pass, in longitude 110° 0.")' 05", 
and latitude 41° 53' 54", distant 1,031 miles from the mouth 
of the Kansas. This is the emigrant road to Oregon, which 
bears much to the southward, to avoid the mountains about the 
western heads of Greeti river — the Rio Verde of ihe Spaniards. 



1843.] CAPT. fkemont's narrative. 163 

16th. — Crossing the river, here about 400 feet wide, by a 
very good ford, we continued to descend for seven or eight 
miles on a pleasant road along the right bank of the stream, 
of which the islands and shores are handsomely timbered with 
Cottonwood. The refreshing appearance of the broad river, 
with its timbered shores and green wooded islands, in contrast 
to its dry and sandy plains, probably obtained for it the name 
of Green river, which was bestowed on it by the Spaniards 
"who first came into this country to trade some 25 years ago. 
It was then familiarly known as the Seeds-ke-dee-agie, or 
Prairie Hen {tetrao urophasianus) river ; a name which it re- 
ceived from the Crows, to whom its upper waters belong, and 
on which this bird is still very abundant. By the Shoshonee 
and Utah Indians, to whom belongs, for a considerable distance 
below, the country where we were now traveling, it was called 
the Bitter Root river, from a great abundance in its valley of 
a plant which affords them one of their favorite roots. Lower 
down, from Brown's hole to the southward, the river runs 
through lofty chasms, walled in by precipices of red rock ; 
and even among the wilder tribes which inhabit that portion of 
its course, I have heard it called by Indian refugees from the 
California settlements the Rio Colorado. We halted to noon 
at the upper end of a large bottom, near some old houses, 
which had been a trading post, in lat. 41° 46^ 54^'. At this 
place the elevation of the river above the sea is 6,230 feet. 
That of Lewis's fork of the Columbia at Fort Hall is, accord- 
ing to our subsequent observations, 4,500 feet. The dessent 
of each stream is rapid, but that of the Colorado is but little 
known, and that little derived from vague report. Three 
hundred miles of its lower part, as it approaches the Gulf of 
California, is reported to be smooth and tranquil ; but its upper 
part is manifestly broken into many falls and rapids. From 
many descriptions of trappers, it is probable that in its foaming 
course among its lofty precipices it presents many scenes of 
wild grandeur ; and though offering many temptations, and 
often discussed, no trappers have been found bold enough to 
undertake a voyage which has so certain a prospect of a fatal 
termination. The Indians have strange stories of beautiful 



164 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

valleys abounding with beaver, shut up among inaccessible 
walls of rock in the lower course of the river; and to which 
the neighboring Indians, in their occasional wars with the 
Spaniards and among themselves, drive their herds of cattle 
and flocks of sheep, leaving them to pasture in perfect se- 
curity. 

The road here leaves the river, which bends considerably to 
the east ; and in the afternoon we resumed our westerly 
course, passing over a somewhat high and broken country ; 
and about sunset, after a day's travel of 26 miles, readied 
Black's fork of the Green river — a shallow stream, with a 
somewhat sluggish current, about 120 feci wide, limbered prin- 
cipally with willow, and here and there an occasional large 
tree. At three in the morning I obtained an observation of an 
emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter, with other observations. 
The heavy wagons have so completely pulverized the soil, that 
clouds of fine light dust are raised by the slightest wind, ma- 
king the road sometimes very disagreeable. 

ITtli. — Leaving our encampment at six in the morning, we 
traveled along the bottom, which is about two miles wide, 
bordered by low hills, in which the strata contained handsome 
and very distinct vegetable fossils. In a gully a short distance 
farther up the river, and underlying these, was exposed a 
stratum of an impure or argillaceous limestone. Crossing on 
the way Black's fork, where it is one foot deep and forty wide, 
with clear water and a pebbly bed, in nine miles we reached 
Ha«n's fork, a tributary to the former stream, having now 
about sixty feet breadth, and a few inches depth of water. It 
is wooded with thickets of red willow, and in the bottom is a 
tolerably strong growth of grass. The road here makes a 
traverse of twelve miles across a bend of the river. Passing 
in the way some remarkable hills, two or three hundred feet 
high, with frequent and nearly vertical escarpments of a green 
stone, consisting of an argillaceous carbonate of lime, alter- 
nating with strata of an iron-bruwn limestone, and worked into 
picturesque forms by wind and rain, at two in the afternoon 
we reached the river again, having made to-day 21 miles. 
Since crossing the great dividing ridge of the Rocky moun- 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 165 

tains, plants have been very few in variety, the country being 
covered principally with artemisia. 

18th. — We passed on the road, this morning, the grave of 
one of the emigrants, being the second we had seen since fall- 
ing into their trail ; and halted to noon on the river, a short 
distance above. 

The Shoshonee woman took leave of us here, expecting to 
find some of her relations at Bridger's fort, which is only a 
mile or two distant, on a fork of this stream. In the evening 
we encamped on a salt creek, about fifteen feet wide, having 
to-day traveled 32 miles. 

I obtained an emersion of the first satellite under favorable 
circumstances, the night being still and clear. 

One of our mules died here, and in this portion of our jour- 
ney we lost six or seven of our animals. The grass which the 
coiintry had lately afforded was very poor and insufficient ; 
and animals which have been accustomed to grain become soon 
weak and unable to labor, when reduced to no other nourish- 
ment than grass. The American horses (as those are usually 
called which are brought to this country from the States) are 
not of any serviceable value until after they have remained a 
winter in the country, and become accustomed to live entirely 
on grass. 

19th. — Desirous to avoid every delay not absolutely neces- 
sary, I sent on Carson in advance to Fort Hall this morning, to 
make arrangements for a small supply of provisions. A few 
miles from our encampment, the road entered a high ridge, 
which the trappers called the " little mountain," connecting the 
Utah with the Wind River chain ; and in one of the hills near 
which we passed I remarked strata of a conglomerate forma- 
tion, fragments of which were scattered over the surface. We 
crossed a ridge of this conglomerate, the road passing near a 
grove of low cedar, and descending upon one of the heads of 
Ham's fork, called Muddy, where we made our mid-day halt. 
In the river hills at this place, I discovered strata of fossilifer- 
ous rock, having an oolitic structure, which, in connection 
with the neighboring strata, authorize us to believe that here, 
on the west side of the Rocky mountains, we find repeated the 



166 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

modern formations of Great Britain and Europe, which have 
hitiierto been wanting to complete the system of Nortli Ameri- 
can geology. 

In the afternoon we continued our road, and searching amuii;^ 
the hills a few miles up the stream, and on the same bank, I 
discovered, among the alternate beds of coal and clay, a stra- 
tum of white indurated clay, containing very clear and beauti- 
ful impressions of vegetable remains. This was the most in- 
teresting fossil locality I had met in the country, and I deeply 
regretted that time did not permit me to remain a day or two 
in the vicinity ; but I could not anticipate the delays to which 
I might be exposed in the course of our journey — or, rather, I 
knew that they were many and inevitable ; and after remain- 
ing here only about an hour, I hurried off, loaded with as 
many specimens as I could conveniently carry. 

Coal made its appearance occasionally in the hills duHng 
the afternoon, and was displayed in rabbit burrows in a kind 
of gap, through which we passed over some high hills, and we 
descended to make our encampment on the same stream, where 
we found but very poor grass. In the evening a fine cow, 
with her calf, which had strayed off from some emigrant party, 
was found several miles from the road, and brouglit into 
camp ; and as she gave an abundance of milk, we enjoyed to- 
night an excellent cup of coffee. We traveled to-day 28 
miles, and, as has been usual since crossing the Green river, 
the road has been very dusty, and the weather smoky and 
oppressively hot. Artemisia was characteristic among the 
few plants. 

20tli. — We continued to travel uj) the creek by a very 
gradual ascent and a very excellent grassy road, passing on 
the way several small forks of the stream. The hills la-re are 
higher, presenting escarpments of party-colored and apparently 
clay rocks, purple, dark-red, and yellow, containing strata of 
sandstone and limestone with shells, with a bed of cemented 
pebbles, the whole overlaid by beds of limestone. The iltcr- 
nation of rod and yellow gives a bright appearance to the hills, 
one of which was called by our people the Rainbow hill, and 
the character of the country became more agreeable, and 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 167 

traveling tar more pleasant, as now we found timber and 
very good grass. Gradually ascending, we reached the lower 
level of a bed of white limestone, lying upon a white clay, on 
the upper line of which the whole road is abundantly supplied 
with beautiful cool springs, gushing out a foot in breadth and 
several inches deep, directly from the hill-side. 

At noon we halted at the last main fork of the creek, at an 
elevation of 7,200 feet, and in latitude, by observation, 41° 39' 
45''' ; and in the afternoon continued on the same excellent 
.road, up the left or northern fork of the stream, towards its 
head, in a pass which the barometer placed at 8,230 feet above 
the sea. This is a connecting ridge between the Utah or Bear 
River mountains and the Wind River chain of the Rocky moun- 
tains, separating the waters of the Gulf of California on the 
east, and those on the west belonging more directly to the Pa- 
cific, from a vast interior basin whose rivers are collected into 
numerous lakes having no outlet to the ocean. From the sum- 
mit of this pass, the highest which the road crosses between 
the Mississippi and the Western ocean, our view was over a 
very ntfountainous region, whose rugged appearance was great- 
ly increased by the smoky weather, through which the broken 
ridges were dark and dimly seen. The ascent to the summit 
of the gap was occasionally steeper than the national road in the 
Alleghanies ; and the descent, by way of a spur on the west- 
ern side, is rather precipitous, but the pass may still be called 
a good one. Some thickets of the willow in the hollows below 
deceived us into the expectation of finding a camp at our 
usual hour at the foot of the mountain ; but we found them 
without water, and continued down a ravine, and encamped 
about dark at a place where the springs began again to make 
their appearance, but where our animals fared badly ; the 
stock of the emigrants having razed the grass as completely as 
if we were again in the midst of the buffalo. 

21st. — An hour's travel this morning brought us into the 
fertile and picturesque valley of Bear river, the principal trib- 
utary to the Great Salt lake. The stream is here two hundred 
feet wide, fringed with willows and occasional groups of haw- 
thorns. We were now entering a region whicii, for us, pos- 



168 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

sessed a strange and extraordinary interest. We were upon 
the waters of tiie famous lake which forms a salient point among 
the remarkable geographical i'eaturcs of the country, and aroiiml 
which the vague and superstitious accounts of the trappers had 
thrown a delightful obscurity, which we anticipated pleasure 
in dispelling, but which, in the mean time, left a crowded field 
for the exercise of our imagination. 

In our occasional conversations with the few old hunters who 
had visited the region, it had been a subject of frequent specu- 
lation ; and the wonders which they related were not the less 
agreeable because they were highly exaggerated and impos- 
sible. • 

Hitherto this lake had been seen only by trappers who were 
wandering through the country in search of new beaver-streams, 
caring very little for geography ; its islands had never been 
visited ; and none were to be found who had entirely made the 
circuit of its shores ; and no instrumental observations or geo- 
graphical survey, of any description, had ever been made any- 
where in the neighboring region. It was generally supposed 
that it had no visible outlet ; but among the trappers, including 
those in my own camp, were many who believed that some- 
where on its surface was a terrible whirlpool, tlirough which 
its waters found their way to the ocean by some subterranean 
communication. All these things had made a frequent subject 
of discussion in our desultory conversations around the fires at 
niglit ; and my own mind had become tolerably well filled 
witii their indefinite pictures, and insensibly colored with their 
romantic descriptions, which, in the pleasure of excitement, I 
was well disposed to believe, and half expected to realize. 

Where we descended into this beautiful valley, it is three to 
four miles in breadth, perfectly level, and bounded by moun- 
tainous ridges, one above another, rising suddenly from the plain. 

We continued our road down the river, and at night en- 
camped with a family of emigrants — two men, women, and 
several children — wlio appeared to be bringing up the rear of 
the great caravan. 1 was struck with the fine ajipearance of 
their cattle, some six or eight yokeof oxen, which really kxiked 
as well as if they had been all the summer at work on some 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 169 

good farm. It was strange to see one small family traveling 
along through such a country, so remote from civilization. 
Some nine years since, such a security might have been a 
fatal one, but since their disastrous defeats in the country a 
little north, the Blackfeet have ceased to visit these waters. 
Indians, however, are very uncertain in their localities ;«and 
the friendly feelings, also, of those now inhabiting it may be 
changed. 

According to barometrical observation at noon, the elevation 
of the valley was 6,400 feet above the sea ; and our encamp- 
ment at night in latitude 42° 03' 47^^ and longitude 111° 
10' 53^', by observation — the day's journey having been 26 
miles. This encampment was therefore within the territorial 
limit of the United States ; our traveling, from the time we 
entered the valley of the Green river, on the 15th of August, 
having been south of the 42d degree of north latitude, and con- 
sequently on Mexican territory ; and this is the route all the 
emigrants now travel to Oregon. 

The temperature at sunset was 65° ; and at evening there 
was a distant thunder-storm, with a light breeze from the 
north. 

Antelope and elk were seen during the day on the opposite 
prairie ; and there were ducks and geese in the river. 

The next morning, in about three miles from our encamp- 
ment, we reached Smith's fork, a stream of clear water, about 
50 feet in breadth. It is timbered with cottonwood, willow, and 
aspen, and makes a beautiful debouchement through a pass about 
600 yards wide, between remarkable mountain iiills, rising ab- 
ruptly on either side, and forming gigantic columns to the gate 
by which it enters Bear River valley. The bottoms, which 
below Smith's fork liad been two miles wide, narrowed as we 
advanced to a gap 500 yards wide, and during the greater part 
of the day we had a winding route, the river making very 
sharp and sudden bends, the mountains steep and rocky, and 
the valley occasionally so narrow as only to leave space for a 
passage through. 

We made our halt at noon in a fertile bottom, where the 
common blue flax was growing abundantly, a few miles below 

15 



170 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

the mouth of Thomas's fork, one of the larger tributaries of the 
river. 

Crossing, in the afternoon, the point of a narrow spur, we 
descended into a beautiful bottom, formed by a lateral valley, 
which presented a picture of home beauty that went directly 
to our hearts. The edge of the wood, for several miles along 
the river, was dotted with the white covers of emigrant wagons, 
collected in groups at ditlerent camps, where the smoke was 
rising lazily from the fires, around which the women were oc- 
cupied in preparing the evening meal, and the children playing 
in the grass ; and herds of cattle, grazing about in the bottom, 
had an air of quiet security, and civilized comfort, that made a 
rare sight for the traveler in such a remote wilderness. 

In common with all the emigration, they had been reposing 
for several days in this delightful valley, in order to recruit 
their animals on its luxuriant pasturage after their long jour- 
ney, and prepare them for tlie hard travel along the con)para- 
tively sterile banks of the Upper Columbia. At the lower end 
of this extensive bottom, the river passes through an open canon, 
where there were high vertical rocks to the water's edge, and 
the road here turns up a broad valley to the right. It was al- 
ready near sunset ; but, hoping to reach the river again before 
night, we continued our march along the valley, finding the 
road tolerably good, until we arrived at a point where it crosses 
the ridge by an ascent of a mile in length, which was so very 
steep and difficult for the gun and carriage, that we did not 
reacli'^tiie summit until dark. 

It was absolutely necessary to descend into the valley for 
water and grass; and we were obliged to grope our way in 
the darkness down a very steep, ]jad mountain, reaching the 
river at about ten o'clock. It was late before our animals 
were gathered into the camp, several of those which were very 
weak being necessarily left to pass the night on the ridge ; and 
we sat down again to a midnight supper. The road, in the 
morning, pre.sented an animated appearance. We found that 
we had encamped near a large party of emigrants; and a few 
miles below, another party was alreatly in motion. Here the 
valley had resumed its usual breadth, and the river swept otT 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 171 

along the mountains on the western side, the road continuing 
directly on. 

In about an hour's travel we met several Shoshonee Indians, 
who informed us that they belonged to a large village which 
had just come into the valley from the mountain to the west- 
ward, where they had been hunting antelope and gathering 
service-berries. Glad at the opportunity of seeing one of their 
villages, and in the hope of purchasing from them a few horses, 
I turned immediately off into the plain towards their encamp, 
ment, which was situated on a small stream near the river. 

We had approached within something more than a mile of 
the village, when suddenly a single horseman emerged from it 
at full speed, followed by another and another in rapid succes- 
sion ; and tiien party after party poured into the plain, until, 
when the foremost rider reached us, all the whole intervening 
plain was occupied by a mass of horsemen, which came charg- 
ing down upon us with guns and naked swords, lances, and 
bows and arrows — Indians entirely naked, and warriors fully 
dressed for war, with the long red streamers of their war-bon- 
nets reaching nearly to the ground, all mingled together in the 
bravery of savage warfare. They had been thrown into a 
sudden tumult by the appearance of our flag, which, among 
these people, is regarded as an emblem of hostility — it being 
usually borne by the Sioux and the neighboring mountain 
Indians, when they come here to war ; and we had, accordingly, 
been mistaken for a body of their enemies. A few words from 
the chief quieted the excitement; and the whole band, in^eas- 
ing every moment in number, escorted us to their encampment, 
where the chief pointed out a place for us to encamp, near his 
own lodge, and we made kn(^wn our purpose in visiting the vil- 
lage. In a very short time we purchased eight horses, for 
which we gave in exchange blankets, red and blue cloth, beads, 
knives, and tobacco, and the usual other articles of Indian 
traffic. We obtained from them also a considerable quantity 
of berries, of different kinds, among which service-berries were 
the most abundant ; and several kinds of roots and seeds, which 
we could eat with pleasure, as any kind of vegetable food was 
gratifying to us. I ate here, for the first time, the kooyah, or 



172 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

tobacco-root, {Valeriana edulis,) — the principal edible root among 
the Indians who inhabit the upper waters of the streams on ihe 
western side of the mountains. It has a very strong and 
remarkably peculiar taste and odor, which I can compare to 
no other vegetable that I am acquainted with, and which to 
some persons is extremely offensive. It was characterized by 
Mr. Preuss as the most horrid food he had ever put in his 
mouth ; and when, in the evening, one of the chiefs sent his 
wife to me with a portion which she had prepared as a delicacy 
to regale us, the odor immediately drove him out of the lodge ; 
and frequently afterwards he used to beg that when those who 
liked it had taken what they desired, it might be sent away. 
To others, however, the taste is rather' an agreeable one ; and 
I was afterwards glad when it formed an addition to our scanty 
meals. It is full of nutriment ; and in its unprepared state is 
said by the Indians to have very strong poisonous qualities, of 
which it is deprived by a peculiar process, being baked in the 
ground for about two days. 

The morning of the 24th was disagreeably cool, with an 
easterly wind, and very smoky weather. We made a late 
start from the village, and, regaining the road, (on which, 
during all the day, were scattered the emigrant wagons.) we 
continued on down the valley of the river, bordered by high 
and mountainous hills, on which fires are seen at the summit. 
The soil appears generally good, although, with the grasses, 
many of the plants are dried up, probably on account of the 
great heat and want of rain. The common blue flax of culti- 
vation, now almo.st entirely in seed — only a scattered flower 
here and there remaining — is the most characteristic plant of 
the Bear River valley. When we encamped at night, on the 
right bank of the river, it was growing as in a sown field. We 
had traveled during the day twenty-two miles, encamping in 
latitude (by observation) 42° Se'' bQ'\ chronometric longitude 
111° 42' 05''. 

In our neighborhood the mountains appeared extremely 
rugged, giving still greater value to this beautiful natural |)ass. 

2.'Jth. — This was a cloudless but smoky autumn morning, 
with a cold wind from the southeast, and a temperature of 45° 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 173 

at sunrise. In a feyv miles I noticed, where a little stream 
crossed the road, fragments of scoriated basalt scattered about — 
the first volcanic rock we had seen, and which now became a 
characteristic rock along our future road. In about six miles' 
travel from our encampment, we reached one of the points in 
our journey to which we had always looked forward with great 
interest — the famous Beer springs. The place in which they 
are situated is a basin of mineral waters enclosed by the moun- 
tains, which sweep around a circular bend of Bear river, here 
at its most northern point, and which, from a northern, in the 
course of a few miles acquires a southern direction towards the 
Great Salt Lake. A pretty little stream of clear water en- 
ters the upper part of the basin, from an open valley in the 
mountains, and, passing through the bottom, discharges into 
Bear river. Crossing this stream, we descended a mile below, 
and made our encampment in a grove of cedar immediately at 
the Beer springs, which, on account of the effervescing gas and 
acid taste, have received their name from the voyageurs and 
trappers of the country, who, in the midst of their rude and 
hard lives, are fond of finding some fancied resemblance to the 
luxuries they rarely have the fortune to enjoy. 

Although somewhat disappointed in the expectations which 
various descriptions had led me to form of unusual beauty of 
situation and scenery, I found it altogether a place of very 
great interest ; and a traveler for the first time in a volcanic 
region remains in a constant excitement, and at every step is 
arrested by something remarkable and new. There is a con- 
fusion of interesting objects gathered together in a small space. 
Around the place of encampment the Beer springs were numer- 
ous ; but, as far as we could ascertain, were confined en- 
tirely to that locality in the bottom. In the bed of the river, 
in front, for a space of several hundred yards, they were very 
abundant ; the effervescing gas rising up and agitating the 
water in countless bubbling columns. In the vicinity round 
about were numerous springs of an entirely different and 
equally marked mineral character. In a rather picturesque 
spot, about 1,300 yards below our encampment, and inmie- 
diately on the river bank, is the most remarkable spring of the 

15=^ 



174 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

place. In an opening on the 'rock, a white column of scat- 
tered water is thrown up, in form like tx jet-d^eau, to a variable 
height of about three feet, and, though it is maintained in a 
constant supply, its greatest height is only attained at regular 
intervals, according to the action of the force below. It is ac- 
companied by a subterranean noise, which, together with the 
motion of the water, makes very much the impression of a 
steamboat in motion ; and, without knowing that it had been 
already previously so called, we gave to it the name of the 
Sleamhoal spring. The rock through which it is forced is 
slightly raised in a convex manner, and gathered at the open- 
ing into an urn-mouthed form, and is evidently formed by con- 
tinued deposition from the water, and colored bright red by 
oxide of iron. An analysis of this deposited rock, which I 
subjoin, will give you some idea of the properties of the water, 
which, with the exception of the Beer springs, is the mineral 
water of the place.* It is a hot spring, and the water has a 
pungent and disagreeable metallic taste, leaving a burning 
effect on the tongue. Within perhaps two yards of the jct- 
d^eau is a small hole of about an inch in diameter, through 
which, at regular intervals, escapes a blast of hot air with a 
light wreath of smoke, accompanied by a regular noise. This 
hole had been noticed by Doctor Wislizenus, a gentleman who 
had several years since passed by this place, and who re- 
marked, with very nice observation, that smelling the gas 
which issued from the orifice produced a sensation of giddiness 
and nausea. Mr. Preuss and myself repeated the observation, 
and were so well satisfied with its correctness, that we did not 
find it pleasant to continue the experiment, as the sensation of 
giddiness which it produced was certainly strong and decided. 
A huge emigrant wagon, with a large and diversified family, 

• ANALYSIS. 

Carbonate of linie ------ 92-55 

Carbonate of magnesia .... - 042 

Oxide of iron -.....- 1-05 

Silica ^ 

Alumina > ...... 598 

Water and Io68 j 

10000 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 175 

had overtaken us and halted to noon at our encampment ; and, 
wliile we were sitting at tiie spring, a band of boys and girls, 
with two or three young men, came up, one of whom I asked 
to stoop down and smell the- gas, desirous to satisfy myself 
further of its effects. But his natural caution had been 
awakened by the singular and suspicious features of the place, 
and he declined my proposal decidedly, and with a few indis- 
tinct remarks about the devil, whom he seemed to consider 
the genius loci. The ceaseless motion and the play of the 
fountain, the red rock and the green trees near, make this a 
picturesque spot. 

A short distance above the spring, and near the foot of the 
same spur, is a very remarkable, yellow-colored rock, soft and 
friable, consisting principally of carbonate of lime and oxide 
of iron, of regular structure, which is probably a fossil coral. 
The rocky bank along the shore between the Steamboat spring 
and our e-ncampment, along which is dispersed the water from 
the hills, is composed entirely of strata of a calcareous tufa, 
with the remains of moss and reed-like grasses, which is 
probably the formation of springs. The Beer or Soda springs, 
which have given name to this locality, are agreeable, but less 
highly flavored than the Boiling springs at the foot of Pike's 
peak, which are of the same character. They are very 
numerous, and half hidden by tufts of grass, which we amused 
ourselves in removing and searching about for more highly 
impregnated springs. They are some of them deep, and of 
various sizes — sometimes several yards in diameter, and kept 
in constant motion by columns of escaping gas. By analysis, 
one qutirt of the water contains as follows: 

Grains. 

Sulphate of magnesia ...... 12-10 

Sulphate of lime 2-12 

Carbonate of lime --...-. 3'86 

Carbonate of magnesia ...... 322 

Chloride of calcinm ....... 133 

Chloride of magnesium - - - . . - 1-12 

Chloride of sodium ....... 224 

Vegetable extractive matter, &c. ... - 0-85 

26-84 



176 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

The carbonic acid, originally contained in the water, had 
mainly escaped before it was subjected to analysis ; and it was 
not, therefore, taken into consideration. 

In the afternoon I wandered about annong the cedars, which 
occupy the greater part of the bottom towards the mountains. 
The soil here has a dry and calcined appearance ; in some 
places, the open grounds are covered with saline elllorescences, 
and there are a number of regularly-shaped and very remark- 
able hills, which are formed of a succession of convex strata 
that have been deposited by the waters of extinct springs, the 
orifices of which are found on their summits, some of them 
having the form of funnel-shaped cones. Others of" these re- 
markably-shaped hills are of a red-colored earth, entirely 
bare, and composed principally of carbonate of lime, with 
oxide of iron, formed in the same manner. Walking near one 
of them, on the summit of which the springs were dry, my 
attention was attracted by an underground noise, around which 
I circled repeatedly, until I found the spot from beneath which 
it came ; and, removing the red earth, discovered a hidden 
spring, which was boiling up from below, with the same disa- 
greeable metallic taste as the Steamboat spring. Continuing 
up the bottom, and crossing the little stream which has been 
already mentioned, I visited several remarkable red and white 
hills, which had attracted my attention from the road in the 
morning. These are immediately upon the stream, and, like 
those already mentioned, are formed by the deposition of suc- 
cessive strjita from the springs. On their summits, the orifices 
through which the waters had been discharged were so large, 
that they resembled miniature craters, being some cff them 
several feet in diameter, circular, and regularly formed as if 
by art. At a former time, when these dried-up fountains were 
all in motion, they must have made a beautiful display on a 
grand scale ; and nearly all this basin appears to me to have 
l)een formed under their action, and should be calletl tin 
p/ace of fountains. At the foot of one of these hills, or rather 
on its side near the base, are several of these small limesloiu- 
columns, about one foot in diameter at the base, and tapering 
upwards to a height of three or four feet j and on the summit 



1843.] CAPT. fkemo-nt's narrative. 177 

the water is boiling up and bubbling over, constantly adding 
to the height of the little obelisks. In some, the water only 
boils up, no longer overflowing, and has here the same taste as 
at the Steamboat spring. The observer will remark a gradual 
subsidence in the water, which formerly supplied the foun- 
tains ; as on all the summits of tiie hills the springs are now 
dry, and are found only low down upon their sides, or on the 
surrounding plain. 

A little higher up the creek its banks are formed by strata 
of very heavy and hard scoriaceous basalt, having a bright 
metallic lustre when broken. The mountains overlooking the 
plain are of an entirely different geological character. Con- 
tinuing on, I walked to the sun)mit of one of them, where the 
principal rock was a granular quartz. Descending the moun- 
tains, and returning towards the camp along the base of the 
ridge which skirts the plain, I found, at the foot of a mountain 
spur, and issuing from a compact rock of a dark blue color, a 
great number of springs having the same pungent and disa- 
greeably metallic taste already mentioned, the water of which 
was collected into a very remarkable basin, whose singularity, 
perhaps, made it appear to me very beautiful. It is large — 
perhaps fifty yards in circumference ; and in it the water is 
contained, at an elevation of several feet above the surrounding 
ground, by a wall of calcareous tvfa, composed principally of 
the remains of mosses, three or four, and sometimes ten feet 
high. The water within is very clear and pure, and three or 
four feet deep, where it could be measured, near the wall ; and 
at a considerably low level, is another pond or basin of very 
clear water, and apparently of considerable depth, from the 
bottom of which the gas was escaping in bubbling columns at 
many places. This water was collected into a small stream, 
which, in a few hundred yards, sank under ground, reappear- 
ing among the rocks between the two great springs near the 
river, which it entered by a little fall. 

Late in the afternoon 1 set out on my return to the camp, 
and, crossing in the way a large field of salt that was several 
inches deep, found on my arrival that our emigrant friends, 
who had been encamped in company with us. had resumed 



178 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

their journey, and the road had again assumed its solitary 
character. The temperature of the hirgest of the Beer springs 
at our encampment was 65° at sunset, that of the air being 
62*5°. Our barometric observation gave 5,840 feet for the 
elevation above the gulf, being about 5U0 feet lower than the 
Boiling springs, which are of a similar nature, at the foot of 
Pike's peak. The astronomical observations gave for our lati- 
tude 42° 39' 57", and 111° 46' 00'' for the longitude. The 
night was very still and cloudless, and I sat up for an observa- 
tion of the first satellite of Jupiter, the emersion of which took 
place about midnight ; but fell asleep at the telescope, awaking 
just a few minutes after the appearance of the star. 

The morning of the 26th was calm, and the sky without 
clouds, but smoky, and the temperature at sunrise 28"5'^. At 
the same time, the temperature of the large Beer spring, where 
we were encamped, was 56° ; that of the Steamboat spring 
87°, and that of the steam-hole, near it, 81-5°. In the course 
of the morning, the last wagons of the emigration passed by, 
and we were again left in our place, in the rear. 

Remaining in camp until nearly 11 o'clock, we traveled a 
short distance down the river, and halted to noon on the bank, 
at a point where the road quits the valley of Bear river, and, 
crossing a ridge which divides the Great basin from the Pacific 
waters, reaches Fort Hall, by way of the Porlneuf river, in a 
distance of probably fifty miles, or two and a half days' jour- 
ney for wagons. An examination of the great lake which is 
the outlet of this river, and the principal feature of geographi- 
cal interest in the basin, was one of the main objects con- 
templated in the general plan of our survey, and I accordingly 
determined at this place to leave the road, and, after having 
completed a reconnoissance of the lake, regain it subsequently 
at F'ort Hall. But our little stock of provisions had again be- 
come extremely low ; we had only dried meat sufficient for 
one meal, and our supplv of Hour and other comforts was en- 
tirely exhausted. I therefore immediately dispatched one of 
the party, Henry Lee, with a note to Carson, at Fort Hall, di- 
recting him to load a pack-horse with whatever could be oh- 
taincd there in tlie way of jirovisions, and endeavor to overtuke 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 179 

me on the river. In the mean time, we had picked up along 
the road two tolerably well-grown calves, which would have 
become food for wolves, and which had probably been left by 
some of the earlier emigrants, none of those we had met hav- 
ing made any claim to tliem ; and on these I mainly relied for 
support during our circuit to the lake. 

In sweeping around the point of the mountain which runs 
down into the bend, the river here passes between perpendicu- 
lar walls of basalt, which always fix the attention, from the 
i-cgular form in which it occurs, and its perfect distinctness 
from the surrounding rocks among which it had been placed. 
The mountain, which is rugged and steep, and, by our meas- 
urement, 1,400 feet above the river directly opposite the place 
of our h^lt, is called the Sheep-rock — probably because a flock 
of the mountain sheep [ovis montana) had been seen on the 
craggy point. 

As we were about resuming our march in the afternoon, I 
was attracted by the singular appearance of an isolated hill 
with a concave summit, in the plain, about two miles from the 
river, and turned off towards it, while the camp proceeded on 
its way southward in search of the lake. I found the thin and 
stony soil of the plain entirely underlaid by the basalt which 
forms the river walls ; and when 1 reached the neighborhood 
of the hill, the surface of the plain was rent into frequent fis- 
sures and chasms of the same scoriated volcanic rock, from 40 
to 60 feet deep, but which there was not sufficient light to pen- 
etrate entirely, and which I had not time to descend. Arrived 
at the summit of the hill, I found that it terminated in a very 
perfect crater, of an oval, or nearly circular form, 360 paces 
in circumference, and 60 feet at the greatest depth. The 
walls, which were perfectly vertical, and disposed like mason- 
ry in a very regular manner, were composed of a brown-color- 
ed scoriaceous lav^, similar to the light scoriaceous lava o£ Mt. 
Etna, Vesuvius, and other volcanoes. The faces of the walls 
were reddened and glazed by the fire, in which they had been 
melted, and which had left them contorted and twisted by its 
violent action. 

Our route during the afternoon was a little rough, being (in 



180 CAPT. Fremont's nakrative. [Aug. 

the direction we had taken) over a volcanic plain, where our 
progress was sometimes obstructed by fissures, and black beds, 
composed of fragments of the rock. On both sides, the moun- 
tains appeared very broken, but tolerably well timbered. 

Crossing a point of ridge which makes in to the river, 
we fell upon it again before sunset, and encamped on the right 
bank, opposite to the encampment of three lodges of Snake In- 
dians. They visited us during the evening, and we obtained 
from them a small quantity of roots of different kinds, in ex- 
change for goods. Among them was a sweet root of very 
pleasant flavor, having somewhat the taste of preserved quince. 
My endeavors to become acquainted with the plants which fur- 
nish to the Indians a portion of their support, were only grad- 
ually successful, and after long and persevering attention ; 
and even after obtaining, I did not succeed in preserving them 
until they could be satisfactorily determined. In this portion 
of the journey, I found this particular root cut up into small 
pieces, that it was only to be identified by its taste, when the 
bulb was met with in perfect form among the Indians lower 
down on the Columbia, among whom it is the highly celebrated 
kamas. It was long afterwards, on our return through Upper 
California, that I found the plant itself in bloom, which I sup- 
posed to furnish the kamas root, (camassia esculenta.) The 
root diet had a rather mournful effect at the commencement, 
and one of the calves was killed this evening for food. The 
animals fared well on rushes. 

27th. — The morning was cloudy, with appearance of rain, 
and the thermometer at sunrise at 29^. .Making an unusually 
early start, we crossed the river at a good ford ; and, follow- 
ing for about three hours a trail which led along the bottom, 
we entered a labyrinth of hills below the main ridge, and halt- 
ed to noon in the ravine of a pretty little stream, timbered 
with Cottonwood of a large size, ash-leaved maple, with cherry 
and other shrubby trees. The ha/.y weather, whirh had pro- 
vented any very extended views since entering the (Ireen 
River valley, began now to disappear. There was a slight 
rain in tiie earlier part of the day, and at noon, when the 
thermometer had risen to 79-5*^, we had a bright sun, vdx\\ blue 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 181 

sky and scattered cumuli. According to the barometer, our 
halt here among the hills was at an elevation of 5,320 feet. 
Crossing a dividing ridgo in the afternoon, we followed down 
another little Bear River tributary, to the point where it emerged 
on an open green flat among the hills, timbered with groves, 
and bordered with cane thickets, but without water. A pretty 
little rivulet coming out of the hillside, and overhung by tall 
flowering plants of a species I had not hitherto seen, furnish- 
ed us with a good camping-place. The evening was cloudy, 
the temperature at sunset 69°, and the elevation 5,140 feet. 
Among the plants occurring along the road during the day, 
ephieUes des prairies (grindelia squarraso) was in considerable 
abundance, and is among the very few plants remaining in 
bloom — the whole country having now an autumnal appear- 
ance, in the crisp and yellow plants, and dried-up grasses. 
Many cranes were seen during the day, with a kw antelope, 
very shy and wild. 

28th. — During the night we had a thunder-storm, with 
moderate rain, which has made the air this morning very clear, 
the thermometer being at 55°. Leaving our encampment at 
the Cane spring, and quitting the trail on which we had been 
traveling, and which would probably have afforded us a good 
road to the lake, we crossed some very deep ravines, and, in 
about an hour's traveling, again reached the river. We were 
now in a valley five or six miles wide, between mountain 
ranges, which, about thirty miles below, appeared to close up and 
terminate the valley, leaving for the river only a very narrow 
pass, or canon, behind which we imagined we would find the 
broad waters of the lake. We made the usual halt at the 
mouth of a small clear stream, having a slightly mineral taste, 
(perhaps of salt,) 4,760 feet above the gulf. In the afternoon 
we climbed a very steep sandy hill ; and after a slow and 
winding day's march of 27 miles, encamped at a slough on the 
river. There were great quantities of geese and ducks, of 
which only a few were shot; the Indians having probably 
made them very wild. The men employed themselves in fish- 
ing, but caught nothing. A skunk, (mephitis Americana,) 
which was killed in the afternoon, made a supper for one of 



182 CAPT. Fremont's nabrative. [Aug. 

the messes. The river is bordered occasionally with fields of 
cane, wiiich we regarded as an indication of our approach to 
a lake-country. We had frequent showers of rain during the 
night, with thunder. 

•29th. — The thermometer at sunrise was 54°, with air from 
the NW., and dark rainy clouds moving on the horizon ; rain 
squalls and bright sunshine by intervals. I rode ahead with 
Basil to explore the country, and, continuing about three miles 
along the river, turned directly off on a trail running towards 
three marked gaps in the bordering range, where the moun- 
tains appeared cut through their bases, towards which the river 
plain rose gradually. Putting our horses into a gallop on 
some fresh tracks which showed very plainly in the wet 
path, we came suddenly upon a small party of Shoshonee In- 
dians, who had fallen into the trail from the north. We could 
only communicate by signs ; but they made us understand 
that the road through the chain was a very excellent one, 
leading into a broad valley which ran to the southward. We 
halted to noon at what may be called the gate of the pass ; on 
either side of which were huge mountains of rock, between 
which stole a little pure water stream, with a margin just suf- 
ficiently large for our passage. From the river, the plain had 
gradually risen to an altitude of 5,500 feet, and, by meridian 
observation, the latitude of the entrance was 42°. 

In the interval of our usual halt, several of us wandered 
along up the stream to examine the |)ass more at leisure. 
Within the gate, the rocks receded a little back, leaving a very 
narrow, but most beautiful valley, through which the little 
stream wound its way, hidden by the different kinds of trees 
and shrubs — aspen, maple, willow, cherry, and elder ; a fine 
verdure of smooth short grass spread over the remaining space 
to the bare sides of the rocky walls. These were of a blue 
limestone, which constitutes the mountain here ; and opening 
directly on the grassy bottom were several curious caves, 
wliieh appeared to be inhabited by root-diggers. On one side 
was gathered a hciip of leaves for a bed, and they were dry, 
open, iiiid pleasant, (^n tlw uxifs of llie caves I niiiiukt'd 
bituminous exudations from the rock. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 183 

The trail was an excellent one for pack-horses ; but as it 
sometimes crossed a shelving point, to avoid the shrubbery we 
were obliged in several places to open a road for the carriage 
through the wood. A squaw on horseback, accompanied by 
five or six dogs, entered the pass in the afternoon ; but was 
too much terrified at finding herself in such unexpected com- 
pany to make any pause for conversation, and hurried oif at a 
good pace — being, of course, no further disturbed than by an 
accelerating shout. She was well and showily dressed, and 
was probably going to a village encamped somewhere near, 
and evidently did not belong to the tribe of root-diggers. We 
now had entered a country inhabited by these people ; and as 
in the course of the voyage we shall frequently meet with them 
in various stages of existence, it will be well to inform you 
that, scattered over the great' region west of the Rocky moun- 
tains, and south of the Great Snake river, are numerous In- 
dians whose subsistence is almost solely derived from roots and 
seeds, and such small animals as chance and great good for- 
tune sometimes bring within their reach. They are miserably 
poor, armed only with bows and arrows, or clubs ; and, as the 
country they inhabit is almost destitute of game, they have no 
means of obtaining better arms. In the northern part of the 
region just mentioned, they live generally in solitary families; 
and farther to the south they are gathered together in villages. 
Those who live together in villages, strengthened by associa- 
tion, are in exclusive possession of the more genial and richer 
parts of the country ; while the others are driven to the ruder 
mountains, and to the more inhospitable parts of the country. 
But by simply observing, in accompanying us along our road, 
you will become better acquainted with these people than we 
could make you in any other than a very long description, and 
you will find them worthy of your interest. 

Roots, seeds, and grass, every vegetable that afibrds any 
nourishment, and every living animal thing, insect or worm, 
they eat. Nearly approaching to the lower animal ci'eation, 
their sole employment is to obtain food ; and they are con- 
stantly occupied in struggling to support existence. 

The most remarkable feature of the pass is the Standing 



184 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Arc. 

rock, wnieli has fallen from the clifls above, and standing pf r- 
pendicularly near the middle of the valley, presents itsflf 
like a watch-tower in the pass. It will give you a tolerably 
correct idea of the character of the scenery in this country, 
where generally the mountains rise abruptly up from com- 
paratively unbroken plains and level valleys ; but it will en- 
tirely fail in representing the picturesque beauty of this de- 
lightful place, where a green valley, full of foliage and a hun- 
dred yards wide, contrasts with naked crags that spire up into 
a blue line of pinnacles 3,000 feet above, sometimes crested 
with cedar and pine, and sometimes ragged and bare. 

The detention that we met with in opening the road, and 
perhaps a willingness to linger on the way, made the after- 
noon's travel short ; and about two miles from the entrance, 
we passed through another gate, and encamped on the stream 
at the junction of a little fork from the southward, around 
which the mountains stooped more gently down, forming a 
small open cove. 

As it was still early in the afternoon, Basil and myself in 
one direction, and Mr. Preuss in another, set out to explore 
the country, and ascended different neighboring peaks, in 
the hope of seeing some indications of the lake ; but though 
our elevation afforded magnificent views, the eye ranging over 
a large extent of Bear river, with the broad and fertile Cache 
valley in the direction of our search, was only to be seen a bed 
of apparently impracticable mountains. Among tluse, the trail 
we had been following turned sharply to the northward, and it 
began to be doubtful if it would not lead us away from the oh- 
ject of our destination ; but I nevertheless determined to keep 
it, in the belief that it would eventually bring us right. A 
squall of rain drove us out of the mountain, and it was late 
when we reached the camp. The evening closed in with fre- 
quent showers of rain, with some lightning and thunder. 

30th. — We had constant thunder-storms during the night, 
but in the morning the clouds were sinking to the horizon, and 
the air was clear and cold, with the thermometer at sunrise at 
39°. Elevation by barometer 5,580 feet. We were in mo- 
tion early, continuing up the little stream without encountering 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 185 

any ascent where a horse would not easily gallop; and, cross- 
ing a slight dividing ground at the summit, descended upon 
a small stream, along which continued the same excellent 
road. In riding through the pass, numerous cranes were seen ; 
and prairie hens, or grouse, [honasia umhellus,) which lately 
had been rare, were very abundant. 

This little affluent brought us Ao a larger stream, down 
which we traveled through a more open bottom, on a level 
road, where heavily-laden wagons could pass without obstacle. 
The hills on the right grew lower, and, on entering a more 
open country, we discovered a Shoshonee village ; and being 
desirous to obtain information, and purchase from them some 
roots and berries, we halted on the river, which was lightly 
wooded with cherry, willow, maple, service-berry, and aspen. 
A meridian observation of the sun, which I obtained here, gave 
42° 14^ 22^^ for our latitude, and the barometer indicated a 
height of 5,170 feet. A number of Indians came immediately 
over to visit us, and several men were sent to the village with 
goods, tobacco, knives, cloth, vermilion, and the usual trinkets, 
to exchange for provisions. But they had no game of any 
kind ; and it was difficult to obtain any roots from them, as 
they were miserably poor, and had but little to spare from 
their winter stock of provisions. Several of the Indians drew 
aside their blankets, showing me their lean and bony figures ; 
and I would not any longer tempt them with a display of our 
merchandise to part with their wretched subsistence, when they 
gave as a reason that it would expose them to temporary starv- 
ation. A great portion of the region inhabited by this nation, 
formerly abounded in game — the buffalo ranging about in 
herds, as we had found them on the eastern waters, and the 
plains dotted with scattered bands of antelope ; but so rapidl)- 
have they disappeared within a few years, that now, as we 
journeyed along, an occasional buffalo skull and a ^ew wild 
antelope were all that remained of the abundance which had 
covered the country with animal life. 

The extraordinary rapidity with which the buffalo is disap- 
pearing from our territories will not appear surprising when 
we remember the great scale on which their destruction is 

16=^ 



186 CAPT. Fremont's iNarrative. [Aug. 

yearly carried on. Willi inconsiderable exceptions, the busi- 
ness of the American trading-posts is carried on in tlieir skins; 
every year the Indian villages make new lodges, for whicii the 
skin of the butlalo furnishes the material ; and in that portion 
of the country where they are still found, the Indians derive 
their entire support from them, and slaughter them with a 
thougiitless and abominably extravagance. Like tlie Indians 
themselves, they have been a characteristic of the Great West; 
and as, like them, they are visibly diniinishing, it will be in- 
teresting to throw a glance backward through the last twenty 
years, and give some account of their former distribution 
through the country, and the limit of their western range. 

The information is derived principally from Mr. Fitzpatrick, 
supported by my own personal knowledge and acquaintance 
with the country. Our knowledge does not go farther back 
than the spring of 1824, at which time the bulFalo were spread 
in immense numbers over the Green River and Bear River 
valleys, and through all the country lying between tlie Colora- 
do, or Green river of the Gulf of California, and Lewis's fork 
of the Columbia river ; the meridian of Fort Hall then form- 
ing the western limit of their range. The buffalo then re- 
mained for many years in that country, and frequently moved 
down the valley of the Columbia, on both sides of tiie river as 
far as the Fishing falk. Below this point they never descend- 
ed in any numbers. About the year 1834 or 1835 they began 
to diminisii very rapidly, and continued to decrease; until 1838 
or 1840, when, with the country we have just described, they 
entirely abandoned all the waters of the Pacific nortii of Lew- 
is's fork of the Columbia. At that time, the Flathead Indians 
were in the habit of finding their buffalo on the heads of Salm- 
on river, and other streams of the Columbia; but now they 
never meet with them farther west tlian the three forks of the 
Missouri, or the plains of the Yellow-stone river. 

In the course of our journey it will bo remarked that the 
buffalo have not so entirely abandoned the waters of the Pacif- 
ic, in the .Rocky-Mountain region south of the Sweet Water, as 
in the country north of the Great Pass. This |)artial distribu- 
tion can only be accounted for in the great pastoral beauty of 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 187 

that country, which bears marks of having been one of their 
favorite liaunts, and by the fact that the white hunters have 
more frequented the northern tiian the southern I'egion — it be- 
ing north of the South Pass that the hunters, trappers, and tra- 
ders, have had their rendezvous for many years past ; and 
from that section also the greater portion of the beaver and rich 
furs were taken, ahhougli always the most dangerous as well as 
the most profitable hunting-ground. 

In that region lying between the Green or Colorado river 
and the head-waters, of the Rio del Norte, over the Yampah, 
Koot/ali, While, and Grand rivers — all of which are the waters 
of the Colorado — the bufialo never extended so far to the west- 
ward as they did on the waters of the Columbia ; and only in 
one or two instances have they been known to descend as far 
west as the mouth of White river. In traveling through the 
country west of the Rocky mountains, observation readily led 
me to the impression that the buffalo had, for the first time, 
crossed that range to the waters of the Pacific only a few years 
prior to the period we are considering ; and in this opinion I 
am sustained by Mr. Fitzpatrick, and the older trappers in that 
country. In the region west of the Rocky mountains, we never 
meet with any of the ancient vestiges which, throughout all the 
country lying upon their eastern waters, are found in the great 
highways, continuous for hundreds of miles, always several 
inches, and sometimes several feet in depth, which the buffalo 
have made in crossing from one river to another, or in traver- 
sing the mountain ranges. The Snake Indians, more pai'ticu- 
larly those low down upon Lewis's fork, have always been 
very grateful to the American trappers, for the great kindness 
(as they frequently expressed it) which they did to them, in 
driving the buffalo so low down the Columbia river. 

The extraordinary abundance of the buffalo on the east side 
of the Rocky mountains, and their extraordinary diminution, 
will be made clearly evident from the following statement : 
At any time between the years 1824 and 1836, a traveler 
might start from any given point south or north in the Rocky 
Mountain range, journeying by the most direct route to the 
Missouri river j and, during the whole distance, his road would 



188 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

always bo among large bands of bufTalo, which would never 
be out of his view until he arrived almost within sight of the 
abodes of civilization. 

At this time, the buffalo occupy but a very limited space, 
principally along the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, 
sometimes extending at their southern extremity to a conside- 
rable distance into the plains between the Platte and Arkansas 
rivers, and along the eastern frontier of New Mexico as far 
south as Texas. 

The folloviring statement, which I owe to the kindness of Mr. 
Sanford, a partner in the American Fur Company, will fur- 
ther illustrate this subject, by extensive knowledge acquired 
during several years of travel through the region inhabited by 
the bulTalo: 

" The total amount of robes annually traded by ourselves 
and others will not be found to dider much from the following 
statement : 

Robes. 
American Fur Company ..... 70,000 

Hudson's Bay Company .... - 10,000 

All other companies, probably .... 10,000 

Making a total of .... 90,000 

as au average annual return for the last eight or ten years. 

" In the northwest, the Hudson's Bay Company purchase 
from the Indians but a very small number — their only market 
being Canada, to which the cost of transportation nearly equals 
the produce of the furs; and it is only within a very recent 
period that they have received bufTalo robes in trade ; and out 
of the great number of buffalo annually killed througliout the 
extensive region inhabited by tiie Camanches and other kindred 
tribes, no robes whatever are furnished for trade. During 
only four months of the year, (from November until March,) 
the skins are good for dressing ; those obtained in the remain- 
ing eight months are valueless to traders ; and the hides of 
bulls are never taken off or dressed as robes at any season. 
Probably not more than one-third of the skins are taken from 
the animals killed, even when they arc in good season, the 
labor of preparing and dressing the robes being very great ; 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 189 

and it is seldom that a lodge trades more than twenty skins 
in a year. It is during the summer months, and in the early 
part of autumn, that the greatest number of buffalo are killed, 
and yet at this time a skin is never taken for the purpose of 
trade." 

From these data, Avhich are certainly limited, and decidedly 
within bounds, the reader is left to draw his own inference of 
the immense number annually killed. 

In 1842, I found the Sioux Indians of the Upper Platte 
detnontes, as their French traders expressed it, with the failure 
of the buffalo ; and in the following year, large villages from 
the Upper Missouri came over to the mountains at the heads 
of the Platte, in search of them. The rapidly progressive 
failure of their principal, and almost their only means of sub- 
sistence, has created great alarm among them ; and at this 
time there are only two modes presented to them, by which 
they see a good prospect for escaping starvation : one of these 
is to rob the settlements along the frontier of the States ; and 
the other is to form a league between the various tribes of the 
Sioux nation, the Cheyonnes, and Arapahoes, and make war 
against the Crow nation, in order to take from them their 
country, which is now the best buffalo country in the west. 
Thfis plan they now have in consideration ; and it would proba- 
bly be a war of extermination, as the Crows have long been 
advised of this state of affairs, and say that they arc perfectly 
prepared. These are the best warriors in the Rocky moun- 
tains, and are now allied with the Snake Indians ; and it is 
probable that their combination would extend itself to the 
Utahs, who have long been engaged in war against the Sioux. 
It is in this section of country that my observation formerly led 
me to recommend the establishment of a military post. 

The farther course of our narrative will give fuller and more 
detailed information of the present disposition of the butlalo in 
the country we visited. 

Among the roots we obtained here, I could distinguish only 
five or six different kinds ; and the supply of the Indians whom 
we met consisted principally of yampah, {anethum gravcolens,) 
tobacco-root, {Valeriana,) and a large root of a species of 



190 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Aug. 

thistin, (circium Virginiautim,) which now is occasionally abun- 
dant, and -is a very agreeably flavored vegetable. 

We had been detained so long at the village, that in tlie af- 
ternoon we made only five miles, and encamped on the same 
river after a day's journey of 19 miles. The Indians inform- 
ed us that we should reach the big salt water after havinir 
slept twice and traveling in a south direction. The stream 
had here entered nearly a level plain or valley, of good soil, 
eight or ten miles broad, to which no termination was to be 
seen, and lying between ranges of mountains which, on the 
right, were grassy and smooth, unbroken by rock, and lower 
than on the left, where they were rocky and bald, increasing 
in height to the southward. On the creek were fringes of 
young willows, older trees being rarely found on the plains, 
where the Indians burn the surface to produce better grass. 
Several magpies (pica Hudsopica) were seen on the creek this 
afternoon; and a rattlesnake was killed here, the first which 
had been seen- since leaving the eastern plains. Our camp to- 
night had such a hungry appearance that I sufliered the little 
cow to be killed, and divided the roots and berries amonji the 
people. A number of Indians from the village encamped 
near. 

The weather the next morning was clear, the thermometer 
at sunrise at 44-5° ; and, continuing down the valley, in about 
five miles we followed the little creek of our encampment to 
its junction with a larger stream, called Roseatix, or Reed river. 
Immediately opposite, on the right, the range was gathered into 
its highest peak, sloping gradually low, and running oil" to a 
point apparently some forty or fifty miles below. Between this 
(now become the valley stream) and the foot of the mountains, 
we journeyed along n handsome sloping level, which frequent 
springs from the hills made occasionally miry, and halted to 
noon at a swampy spring, where there were good grass and 
abundant rushes. Here the river was forty feet wide, with a 
considerable current, and the vallny a mile and a half in 
breadth ; the soil being gicnerally good, of a dark color, and 
apparently well adapted to cultivation. The day had become 
bright and pleasant, with the thermometer at 71°. By obser- 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 191 

vation, our latitude was 41° 59^ 31^^, and the elevation above 
tlie sea 4,670 feet. On our left, this afternoon, the range at 
bng intervals formed itself into peaks, appearing to terminate, 
about forty miles below, in a rocky cape, beyond which sev- 
eral others were faintly visible ; and we were disappointed 
when, at every little rise, we did not see the lake. Towards 
evening, our way was somewhat obstructed by fields of arte- 
viisia, which began to make their appearance here, and we 
encamped on the Roseaux, the water of which had acquired a 
decidedly salt taste, nearly opposite to a canon gap in the 
mountains, through which the Bear river enters this valley. 
As we encamped, the night set in dark and cold, with heavy 
rain, and the artemisia, which was our only wood, was so 
wet that it would not burn. A poor, nearly starved dog, with 
a wound in his side from a ball, came to the camp, and re- 
mained with us until the winter, when he met a very unex- 
pected fate. 



SEPTEMBER. 



1st. — The morning was squally and cold;, the sky scatter- 
ed over with clouds ; and the night had been so uncomfortable, 
that we were not on the road until eight o'clock. Traveling 
between Roseaux and Bear rivers, we continued to descend the 
valley, which gradually expanded, as we advanced, into a level 
plain, of good soil, about 25 miles in breadth, between moun- 
tains 3,000 and 4,000 feet high, rising suddenly to the clouds, 
which all day rested upon the peaks. These gleamed out in 
the occasional sunlight, mantled with the snow which had fallen 
upon them, while it rained on us in the valley below, of which 
the elevation here was 4,500 feet above the sea. The coun- 
try before us plainly indicated that we were approaching the 
lake, though, as the ground we were traveling afforded no ele- 
vated point, nothing of it as yet could be seen ; and at a 
great distance ahead were several isolated mountains resem- 
bling islands, which they were afterwards found to be. On this 
upper plain the grass was everywhere dead ; and among the 



192 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

shrubs with which it was ahnost exclusively occupied, (urte- 
misia being the most abundant,) frequently occurred handsome 
clusters of several species of dietcria in bloom. Purshia tri- 
dentala was among the frequent shrubs. Descending to the 
bottoms of Bear river, we found good grass for the aniinals, 
and encamped about 300 yards above the mouth of Roseaux, 
which licrc makes its junction, without communicating any of 
its salty taste to the main stream, of which the water remains 
perfectly pure. On the river are only willow thickets, (salix 
longifolia,) and in the bottoms the abundant plants are canes, 
soldiago, and helianthi, and along the banks of Roseaux are 
fields of maha rotundifolia. At sunset the thermometer was 
at 54-5'^, and the evening clear and calm ; but I deferred 
making any use of it until one o'clock in the morning, when I 
endeavored to obtain an emersion of the first satellite ; but it 
was lost in a bank of clouds, which also rendered our usual 
observations indifferent. 

Among the useful things which formed a portion of our 
equipage, was an India-rubber boat, 18 feet long, made some- 
what in the form of a bark canoe of the northern lakes. The 
sides were formed by two air-tight cylinders, eighteen inches 
in diameter, connected witli others forming the bow and stern. 
To lessen the danger from accidents to the boat, these were 
divided into four different compartments, and the interior space 
was sufficiently large to contain five or six persons, and a con- 
siderable weight of baggage. The Roseaux being too deep to 
be forded, our boat was filled with air, and in about one hour 
all the equipage of the camp, carriage and gun included, fer- 
ried across. Thinking that perhaps in the course of the day 
we might reach the outlet of the lake, I got into the boat with 
Basil Lajouncsse, and paddlod down Bear river, intending at 
night to rejoin the party, which in the mean time proceeded 
on its way. Tlio river was from sixty to one hundred yards 
broad, and tiie water so deep, that even on the comparatively 
shallow points we could not reach the bottom with 15 feet. 
On cither side were alternately low bottoms and willow points, 
with an occasional high prairie ; and for five or six hours we 
followed slowly the winding course of the river, which crept 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 193 

along with a sluggish current among frequent detours sevei'al 
miles around, sometimes running for a considerable distance 
directly up the valley. As we were stealing quietly down the 
stream, trying in vain to get a shot at a strange large bird that 
was numerous among the willows, but very shy, we came un- 
expectedly upon several families of Root-Diggers, who were 
encamped among the rushes on the shore, and appeared very 
busy about several weirs or nets which had been rudely made 
of canes and rushes for the purpose of catching fish. They 
were very much startled at our appearance, but we soon es- 
tablished an acquaintance ; and finding that they had some 
roots, I promised to send some men with goods to trade with 
them. Tl]cy had the usual very large heads, remarkable 
amoncr the Digtrer tribe, with matted hair, and were almost 
entirely naked : looking very poor and miserable, as if their 
lives had been spent in the rushes where they were, beyond 
which they seemed to have very little knowledge of any thing. 
From the words we could comprehend, their language was 
that of the Snake Indians. 

Our boat moved so heavily, that we had made very little 
progress ; and, finding that it would be impossible to overtake 
the camp, as soon as we were sufficiently far below the Indians, 
we put to the shore near a high prairie bank, hauled up the 
boat, and cached our effects in the willows. Ascending the 
bank, we found that our desultory labor had brought us only a 
few miles in a direct line ; and, going out into the prairie, after 
a search we found the trail of the camp, which was nowhere in 
sight, but had followed the general course of the river in a large 
circular sweep which it makes at this place. The sun was 
about three hours high when we found the trail ; and as our 
people had passed early in the day, we had the prospect of a 
vigorous walk before us. Immediately where we landed, the 
high arable plain on which we had been traveling, for several 
days past, terminated in extensive low flats, very generally 
occupied by salt marshes, or beds of shallow lakes, whence the 
water had in most places evaporated, leaving their hard surface 
incrusted with a shining white residuum, and absolutely cov- 
«;rcd with very small univalve shells. As we advanced, the 

17 



194 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

whole country around us assumed tliis appearance ; and there 
was no other vegetation than tlie shrubby chenopodiaceous and 
other apparently saline plants, which were confined to the 
rising grounds. Here and there, on the river bank, whicii 
was raised like a levee above the flats through wiiich it ran, 
was a narrow border of grass and short black-burnt willows; 
the stream being very deep and sluggish, and sometimes six 
hundred to eight hundred feet wide. After a rapid walk of about 
fifteen miles, we caught sight of the camp-fires among clumps 
of willows, just as the sun had sunk behind the mountains on 
the west side of the valley, filling the clear sky with a golden 
yellow. These last rays, to us so precious, could not have 
revealed a more welcome sight. To the traveler and the 
hunter, a camp-fire in the lonely wilderness is always cheer- 
ing ; and to ourselves, in our present situation, after a hard 
march in a region of novelty, approaching the debouches of a 
river, in a lake of almost fabulous reputation, it was doubly so. 
A plentiful supper of aquatic birds, and the interest of the scene, 
soon dissipated fatigue ; and I obtained during the night emcr- 
sions of the second, third, and fourth satellites of Jupiter, witii 
observations for time and latitude. 

3d. — The morning was clear, with a light air from the north, 
and the thermometer at sunrise at 45*5°. At three in the 
morning, Basil was sent back with several men and horses for 
the boat, which, in a direct course across the flats, was not ten 
miles distant ; and in the mean time there was a pretty spot of 
grass here for the animals. The ground was so low that we 
could not get high enough to see across the river, on account 
of the willows ; but we were evidently in the vicinity of the 
lake, and the water-fowl made this morning a noise like thun- 
der. A pelican (pc/ccanv.s' onocrolalus) was killed as he passed 
by, and many geese and (Kicks flew over the camp. On the 
dry salt marsli iiore is scarce any other plant than salicornia 
hcrbacea. 

In the afternoon the men returned with the boat, bringing 
with them a small quantity of r(.)Ots and sonie meat, which tlie 
Indians had told them was bear-meat. 

Descending the river for about three miles, in the afternoon, 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's •NARRATIVE. 19.5 

we found a bar to any further traveling in that direction — the 
stream being spread out in several branches, and covering the 
low grounds with water, where the miry nature of the bottom 
did not permit any further advance. We were evidently on 
the border of the lake, although the rushes and canes which 
covered the marshes prevented any view ; and we accordingly 
encamped at the little delta which forms the mouth of Bear 
river — a long arm of the lake stretching up to the north, be- 
tween us and the opposite mountains. The river was bordered 
with a fringe of willows and canes, among which were inter- 
spersed a few plants ; and scattered about on the marsh was a 
species of tmio/a, closely allied to U. spicata of our sea-coast. 
The whole morass was animated with multitudes of water-fowl, 
which appeared to be very wild — rising for the space of a mile 
round about at the sound of a gun, with a noise like distant 
thunder. Several of the people waded out into the marshes, 
and we had to-night a delicious supper of ducks, geese, and 
plover. 

Although the moon was bright, the night was otherwise 
favorable ; and I obtained this evening an emersion of the first 
satellite, with the usual observations. A mean result, depend- 
ing on various observations made during our stay in the neigh- 
borhood, places the mouth of the river in longitude 112° 19' .3C 
west from Greenwich; latitude 41° 30' 22''; and, according 
to the barometer, in elevation 4,200 feet above the Gulf of 
Mexico. The night was clear, with considerable dew, which 
I had remarked every night since the first of September. The 
next morning, while we were preparing to start, Carson rode 
into the camp with flour and a few other articles of light pro- 
vision, sufficient for two or three days — a scanty but very ac- 
ceptable supply. Mr. Fitzpatrick had not yet arrived, and 
provisions were very scarce, and difficult to be had at Fort 
Hall, which had been entirely exhausted by the necessities of 
the emigrants. He brought me also a loiter from Mr. Dwight, 
who, in company with several emigrants, had reached that 
place in advance of Mr. Fitzpatrick, and was about continuing 
his journey to Vancouver. 

Returning about five miles up the river, we were occupied 



196 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

until nearly sunset in crossing to the left bank — the stream, 
which in the last five or six miles of its course is very much 
narrower than above, being very deep immediately at the 
banks ; and we had great difficulty in getting our animals 
over. The people with the baggage were easily crossed in 
the boat, and we encamped on the left bank where we crossed 
the river. At sunset the thermometer was at 75°, and there 
was some rain during the night, with a thunder-storm at a dis- 
tance. 

5th. — Before us was evidently the bed of the lake, being a 
great salt marsh, perfectly level and bare, whitened in places 
by saline efflorescences, with here and there a pool of water, 
and having the appearance of a very level seashore at low tide. 
Immediately along the river was a very narrow strip of vege- 
tation, consisting of willows, helianthi, roses, flowering vines, 
and grass ; bordered on the verge of the great marsh by a 
fringe of singular plants, which appear to be a shrubby sali- 
cornia, or a genus allied to it. 

About 12 miles to the southward was one of those isolated 
mountains, now appearing to be a kind of peninsula ; and to- 
wards this we accordingly directed our course, as it probably 
afforded a good view of the lake ; but the deepening mud as 
we advanced forced us to return towards the river, and gain 
the higher ground at the foot of the eastern mountains. Mere 
we halted for a few minutes at noon, on a beautiful little 
stream of pure and remarkably clear water, with a bed of rock 
in situ, on which was an abundant water-plant with a white 
blossom. There was good grass in the bottoms ; and, amidst 
a rather lu.xuriant growth, its banks were bordered with a 
large showy plant, {cnpaforium purpurcuin,) which I here saw 
for the first time. We named the stream C/ear creek. 

We continued our way along the mountain, having found 
here a broad plainly-beaten trail, over what was apparently 
the shore of the lake in the spring ; the ground Ixing high and 
firm, and the soil excellent, and covered with vegetation, 
among which a leguminous plant {gfyryrrhiza Icpidota) was a 
characteristic plant. The ridge here rises abruptly to the 
height of about 4,000 feet, its face being very prominently 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 197 

marked with a massive stratum of rose-colored granular quartz, 
which is evidently an altered sedimentary rock, the lines of 
deposition being very distinct. It is rocky and steep — :divided 
into several mountains — and the rain in the valley appears to 
be always snow on their summits at tliis season. Near a re- 
markably rocky point of the mountain, at a large spring of 
pure water, were several hackberry-trees, (celtis,) probably a 
new species, the berries still green ; and a short distance far- 
ther, thickets of sumach, (rhus.) 

On the plain here I noticed blackbirds and grouse. In about 
seven miles from Clear creek, the trail brought us to a place 
at the foot of the mountain where there issued, with considera- 
ble force, 10 or 12 hot springs, highly impregnated with salt. 
In one of these the thermometer stood at 136°, and in another 
at 132-50, and the water, which was spread in pools over the 
low ground, was colored red. 

An analysis of the red earthy matter deposited in the bed of 
the stream from the springs, gives the following result : 

Peroxide of iron ....... 33-50 

Carbonate of magnesia ...... 2-40 

Carbonate of lime 5043 

Sulphate of lime 200 

Chloride of sodium -.-...- 3'45 

Silica and alumina ....... 3-00 

Water and loss ....... 522 

10000° 
At this place the trail we had been following turned to the 
left, apparently with a view of entering a gorge in the moun. 
tain, from which issued the principal fork of a large and com. 
paratively well-timbered stream, called Weber's fork. We 
accordingly turned off towards the lake, and encamped on this 
river, which was 100 to 150 feet wide, with high banks, and 
very clear pure water, without the slightest indication of 
salt. 

Gth. — Leaving the encampment early, we again directed our 
course for the peninsular butfe across a low shrubby plain, 
crossing in the way a slough-like creek with miry banks, and 
wooded with thickets of thorn, {cratagus,) which were loaded 

17* 



198 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

with berries. Tliis time we reached the butte without any 
difficulty, and, ascending to the summit, immediately at our 
feet beheld the object of our anxious search — the waters of the 
Inland Sea, stretching in still and solitary grandeur far beyond 
the limit of our vision. It was one of the great points of the 
exploration ; and as we looked eagerly over the lake in the first , 
emotions of excited pleasure, I am doubtful if the followers of 
Balboa felt more enthusiasm when, from the heights of the 
Andes, they saw for the first time the great Western ocean. 
It was certainly a magnificent object, and a noble terminus to 
this part of our expedition ; and to travelers so long shut up 
among mountain ranges, a sudden view over the expanse of 
silent waters had in it something sublime. Several large isl- 
ands raised their high rocky heads out of the waves ; but 
whether or not they were timbered, was still left to our imagi- 
nation, as the distance was too great to determine if the dark 
hues upon them were woodland or naked rock. During the 
day the clouds had been gathering black over the mountains to 
the westward, and, while w-e were looking, a storm burst down 
with sudden fury upon the lake, and entirely hid the inlands 
from our view. So far as we could see, along the shores there 
was not a solitary tree, and but little appearance of grass ;. and 
on Weber's fork, a k\v miles below our last encampment, the 
timber was gathered into groves, and then disappeared entire- 
ly. As this appeared to be the nearest point to the lake, where 
a suitable camp could be found, we directed our course to one 
of the groves, where we found a handsome encampment, with 
good grass and an abundance of rushes, {cqiiiscliiin hi/cmafe.) 
At sunset the thermometer was at 55° ; the evening clear and 
calm, with some cumuli. 

7th. — The morning was calm and clear, with a temperature 
at sunrise of 39-i3°. The day was spent in active preparation 
for our intended voyage on the lake. On the edge of the stream 
a favorable spot was selected in a grove, and, felling the tim- 
ber, we made a strong coral, or horse-pen, for the animals, 
and a little fort for the people who were to remain. We were 
now probably in the oounfrv of the Utah Indians, though none 
reside on the lake, ^i'he India-rubber boat was repaired with 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 199 

prepared cloth and gum, and filled with air, in readiness for 
the Axt day. 

The provisions which Carson brought with hiin being now 
exhausted, and our stock reduced to a small quantity of roots, 
I determined to retain with me only a sufficient number of 
men for the execution of our design ; and accordingly seven 
were sent back to Fort Hall, under the guidance of Francois 
Lajeunesse, who, having been for many years a trapper in the 
country, was considered an experienced mountaineer. Though 
they were provided with good horses, and the road was a re- 
markably plain one of only four days' journey for a horse- 
man, they became bewildered, (as we afterwards learned,) and, 
losing their way, wandered about the country in parties of one 
or two, reaching the fort about a week afterwards. Some 
straggled in of themselves, and the others were brought in by 
Indians who had picked them up on Snake river, about sixty 
miles below the fort, traveling along the emigrant road in full 
march for the Lower Columbia. The leader of this adventurous 
party was Francois. 

Hourly barometrical observations were made during the 
day, and, after the departure of the party for Fort Hall, we 
occupied ourselves in continuing our little preparations, and in 
becoming acquainted with the country in the vicinity. The 
bottoms along the river were timbered with several kinds of 
willow, hawthorn, and fine cotton wood-trees (populns canaden- 
sis) with remarkably large leaves, and sixty feet in height by 
measurement. 

We formed now but a small family. With Mr. Preuss and 
myself, Carson, Bernier, and Basil Lajeunesse, had been 
selected for the boat expedition — the first attempted on this in- 
terior sea ; and Badeau, with Derosier, and Jacob, (the colored 
man,) were to be left in charge of the camp. We were favor- 
ed with most delightful weather. To-night there was a bril- 
liant sunset of golden orange and green, which left the west- 
ern sky clear and beautifully pure ; but clouds in the east made 
me lose an occultalion. The summer frogs were singing around 
us, and the evening was very pleasant, with a temperature of 
60° — a night of a more southern autumn. For our supper 



200 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

we had yampah, the most agreecibly flavored of the roots, 
seasoned by a small fat duck, which had come in the way of 
Jacob's rifle. Around our fire to-night were many specula- 
tions on what to-morrow would bring forth, and in our busy 
conjectures we fancied that we should find every one of the 
large islands a tangled wilderness of trees and shrubbery, 
teeming with game of every description that the neighboring 
region afforded, and which the foot of a white man or Indian 
had never violated. Frequently, during the day, clouds had 
rested on the sunmiits of their lofty mountains, and we be- 
lieved that we should find clear streams and springs of fresh 
water; and we indulged in anticipations of the luxurious re- 
pasts with which we were to indemnify ourselves for past 
privations. Neither, in our discussions, were the whirlpool 
and other mysterious dangers forgotten, which Indian and 
hunters' stories attributed to this unexplored lake. The men 
had Ibund that, instead of being strongly sewed, (like that of 
the preceding year, which had so triumphantly rode the canons 
of the upper Great Platte,) our present boat was only pasted 
together in a very insecure manner, the maker having been 
allowed so little time in the construction, that he was obliged 
to crowd the labor of two months into several days. The 
insecurity of the boat was sensibly felt by us ; and, mingled 
with the enthusiasm and excitement that we all felt at the 
prospect of an undertaking which hud never before been ac- 
complished, W£is a certain impression of danger, suflicient to 
give a serious character to our conversation. The momentary 
view which had been had of the lake the day before, its great 
extent and rugged islands, dimly seen amidst the dark waters 
in the obscurity of the sudden storm, were calculated to heighten 
tiie idea of undefined danger with w liieli the hike was generally 
associated. 

8th. — A calm, clear day, with a sunrise temperature of 
41°. In view of our present enterprise, a part of the equip- 
ment of the boat had been made to consist in three air-tight 
bags, about three feet long, and capable each of containing five 
gallons. These had been filled with water the night before, 
and were now placed in the boat, with our blankets and inslru- 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 201 

merits, consisting of a sextant, telescope, spy-glass, thermome- 
ter, and barometer. 

We left the camp at sunrise, and had a very pleasant voyage 
down the river, in which there was generally eight or ten feet 
of water, deepening as we neared the mouth in the latter part 
of the day. In the course of the morning we discovered that 
two of the cylinders leaked so much as to require one man 
constantly at the bellows, to keep them sufficiently full of air 
to support the boat. Although we had made a very early 
start, we loitered so much on the way — stopping every now 
and then, and floating silently along, to get a shot at a goose 
or duck — that it was late in the day when we reached the 
outlet. The river here divided into several branches, filled with 
fluvials, and so very shallow that it was with difficulty we 
could get the boat along, being obliged to get out and wade. 
We encamped on a low point among rushes and young willows, 
where was a quantity of drift-wood, which served for our fires. 
The evening was mild and clear ; we made a pleasant bed of 
young willows ; and geese and ducks enough had been killed 
for an abundant supper at night, and for breakfast the next 
morning. The stillness of the night was enlivened by millions 
of water-fowl. Lat. (by observation) 41° 11^ 26^^; and long. 
112° 11' 30^'. 

9th. — The day was clear and calm ; the thermometer at 
sunrise at 49°. As is usual with the trappers on the eve of 
any enterprise, our people had made dreams, and theirs hap- 
pened to be a bad one — one which always preceded evil — and 
consequently they looked very gloomy this morning ; but we 
hurried through our breakfast, in order to made an early start, 
and have all the day before us for our adventure. The chan- 
nel in a short distance became so shallow that our navigation 
was at an end, being merely a sheet of soft mud, with a few 
inches of water, and sometimes none at all, forming the low- 
water shore of the lake. All this place was absolutely cover- 
ed with flocks of screaming plover. We took off" our clothes, 
and, getting overboard, commenced dragging the boat — making, 
by this operation, a verv curious trail, and a very disagreeable 
smell in stirring up the mud, as we sank above the knee at 



202 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

every step. The water here was still fresh, with only an in- 
sipid and disagreeable taste, probably derived from tlie bed of 
fetid mud. After proceeding in this way about a mile, we ^ 
came to a small black ridge on the bottom, beyond M'hich the 
water became suddenly salt, beginning gradually to deepen, 
and the bottom was sandy and firm. It was a remarkable di- 
vision, separating the fresh waters of the rivers from the briny 
water of the lake, which was entirely saturated with common 
salt. Pushing our little vessel across the narrow boundary, 
we sprang on board, and at length were afloat on the waters 
of the unknown sea. 

We did not steer for the mountainous islands, but directed 
our course towards a lower one, which it had been decided we 
should first visit, the summit of which was formed like the 
crater at the upper end of Bear River valley. So long as we 
could touch the bottom with our paddles, we were very gay ; 
but gradually, as the water deepened, we became more still in 
our frail batteau of gum-cloth distended with air, and with 
pasted seams. Although the day was very calm, there was a 
considerable swell on the lake ; and there were white patches 
of foam on the surface, which were slowly moving to the 
southward, indicating the set of a current in that direction, and 
recalling the recollection of the whirlpool stories. The water 
continued to deepen as we advanced — the lake beeoniing al- 
most transparently clear, of an extremely beautiful bright-green 
color ; and the spray, which was thrown into the boat and 
over our clothes, was directly converted into a crust of com- 
mon salt, which covered also our hands and arms. " Captain," 
said Carson, who for some time had been looking suspiciously 
at some whitening appearances outside the nearrst islands, 
" what are those yonder ? — won't you just take a look with 
the glass ?" We ceased paddling for a mon)ent, and found 
them to be the caps of the waves that were beginning to 
break under the force of a strong breeze that was coming up 
the lake. 

The form of the boat seemrd to be an admirablo one, and it 
rode on the waves liko a water-bird ; but, at the same time, it 
was extremely slow in its progress. When we were a little 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 203 

more than half way across the reach, two of the divisions be- 
tween the cylinders gave way, and it required the constant use 
of the bellows to keep in a sufficient quantity of air. For a 
long time we scarcely seemed to approach our island, but 
gradually we worked across the rougher sea of the open chan- 
nel, into the smoother water under the lee of the island, and 
began to discover that what we took for a long row of pelicans, 
ranged on the beach, were only low cliffs whitened with salt 
by the spray of the waves ; and about noon we reached the 
shore, the transparency of the water enabling us to see the bot- 
tom at a considerable depth. 

It was a handsome broad beach where we landed, behind 
which the hill, into which the island was gathered, rose some- 
what abruptly ; and a point of rock at one end enclosed it in a 
sheltering way; and as there was an abundance of drift-wood 
along the shore, it offered us a pleasant encampment. We did 
not suffer our frail boat to touch the sharp rocks, but, getting 
overboard, discharged the baggage, and, lifting it gently out of 
the water, carried it to the upper part of the beach, which was 
composed of very small fragments of rock. 

Among the successive batiks of the beach, formed by the ac- 
tion of the waves, our attention, as we approached the island, 
had been attracted by one 10 to 20 feet in breadth, of a dark- 
brown color. Being more closely examined, this was found to 
be composed, to the depth of seven or eight and twelve inches, 
entirely of the larvm of insects, or, in common language, of the 
skins of worms, about the size of a grain of oats, which had 
been washed up by the waters of the lake. 

Alluding to this subject some months afterwards, when trav- 
eling through a more southern portion of this region, in com- 
pany with Mr. Joseph Walker, an old hunter, I was informed 
by him, that, wandering with a party of men in a mountain 
country east of the great Calitbrnia range, he surprised a party 
of several Indian families encamped near a small salt lake, 
who abandoned their lodges at his approach, leaving every 
thing behind them. Being in a starving condition, they were 
delii^hted to find in the abandoned lodjies a number of skin 
bags, containing a quantity of what appeared to be fish, dried 



204 CAPT. Fremont's narrative [Sept. 

and pounded. On this they made a hearty supper, and were 
gathering around an abundant breakfast the next morning, 
when Mr. Walker discovered that it was with these, or a simi- 
lar worm, that the bags had been filled. The stomachs of the 
stout trappers were not proof against their prejudices, and the 
repulsive food was suddenly rejected. Mr. Walker had fur- 
ther opportunities of seeing these worms used as an article of 
food ; and I am inclined to think they are the same as those 
we saw, and appear to be a product of the salt lakes. It may 
be well to recall to your mind that Mr. Walker was associated 
with Capt. Bonneville in his expedition to the Rocky moun- 
tains, and has since that time remained in the country, gener- 
ally residing in some one of the Snake villages, when not en- 
gaged in one of his numerous trapping expeditions, in which he 
is celebrated as one of the best and bravest leaders who have 
ever been in the country. 

The clifFs and masses of rock along the shore were whitened 
by an incrustation of salt where the waves dashed up against 
them ; and the evaporating water, which had been left in holes 
and hollows on the surface of the rocks, was covered with a 
crust of salt about one-eighth of an inch in thickness. It ap- 
peared strange that, in the midst of this grand reservoir, one 
of our greatest wants lately had been salt. Exposed to be 
more perfectly dried ifi the sun, this became very white and 
fine, having the usual flavor of very excellent common salt, 
without any foreign taste ; but only a little was collected for 
present use, as there was in it a number of small black insects. 

Carrying with us the barometer and other instruments, in the 
afternoon we ascended to the highest point of the island — a 
bare, rocky peak, eight hundred feet above the lake. Stand- 
ing on the summit, Wc enjoyed an extended view of the lake, 
enclosed in a basin of rugged mountains, which sometimes lef\ 
marshy flats and extensive bottoms between them and the shore, 
and in other places came directly down into the water with 
bold and precipitous bluffs. Following with our glasses the 
irregular shores, we searched for some indications of a commu- 
nication with other bodies of water, or the entrance of other 
rivers ; but the distance was so great that we could make out 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 205 

nothing with certainty. To the southward, several peninsular 
mountains, 3,000 or 4,000 feet liigh, entered the lake, appear- 
ing, so far as the distance and our position enabled us to deter- 
mine, to be connected by flats and low ridges with the moun- 
tains in the rear. These are probably the islands usually in- 
dicated on maps of this region as entirely detached from the 
shore. The season of our operations was when the waters were 
at their lowest stage. At the season of high waters in the 
spring, it is probable that the marshes and low grounds are 
overflowed, and the surface of the lake considerably greater. 
In several places the view was of unlimited extent — here and 
there a rocky islet appearing above the waters, at a great dis- 
tance ; and beyond, every thing was vague and undefined. As 
we looked over the vast expanse of water spread out beneath 
us, and strained our eyes along the silent shores over which 
hung so much doubt and uncertainty, and which were so full 
of interest to us, I could hardly repress the almost irresistible 
desire to continue our explorations ; but the lengthening snow 
on the mountains was a plain indication of the advancing sea- 
son, and our frail lifien boat appeared so insecure that I was 
unwilling to trust our lives to the uncertainties of the lake. I 
therefore unwillingly resolved to terminate our survey here, 
and remain satisfied for the present with what we had been 
able to add to the unknown geography of the region. We felt 
pleasure, also, in remembering that we were the first who, in 
the traditionary annals of the country, had visited the islands, 
and broken, with the cheerful sound of human voices, the long 
solitude of the place. From the point where we were standing, 
the gi'ound fell off" on every side to the water, giving us a per- 
fect view of the island, which is twelve or thirteen miles in 
circumference, being simply a rocky hill, on which there is 
neither water nor trees of any kind ; although the Fremonlia 
vermicularis, which was in great abundance, might easily be 
taken for timber at a distance. The plant seemed here to de- 
light in a congenial air, growing in extraordinary luxuriance 
seven to eight feet high, and was very abundant on the upper 
parts of the island, where it was almost the only plant. This 
is eminently a saline shrub ; its leaves have a salt taste ; and 

18 



206 CAPT. FilEMONx's NARRATIVE. [SePT. 

it luxuriates in saline soils, where it is usually a characteristic. 
It is widely ditTused over all this country. A chenopodiaceous 
shrub, which is a new species of obione, (O. rigida, Torr. and 
Frem.,) was equally characteristic of the lower parts of the 
island. These two are the striking plants on the island, a«d 
belong to a class of plants which form a prominent feature in 
the vegetation of this country. On the lower parts of the 
island, also, a prickly pear of very large size was frequent. 
On the shore, near the water, was a woolly species of phaca ; 
and a new species of umbelliferous plant (/cptolcemia) was scat- 
tered about in very considerable abundance. These consti- 
tuted all the vegetation that now appeared upon the island. 

I accidentally left on the summit the brass cover to the ob- 
ject end of my spy-glass : and as it will probably remain there 
undisturbed by Indians, it will furnish matter of speculation to 
some future traveler. In our excursions about the island, we 
did not meet with any kind of animal ; a magpie, and another 
larger bird, probably attracted by the smoke of our fire, paid 
us a visit from the shore, and wore the only living things sten 
durin" our stay. The rock constituting the clitls along the 
shore, where we were encamped, is a talcous rock, or steatite, 
with brown spar. 

At sunset, the temperature was 70°. We had arrived just 
in time to obtain a meridian altitude of the sun, and other ob- 
servations were obtained this evening, which placed our camp 
in latitude 41° 10' 42", and longitude 112^ 21' 05" from 
Greenwich. From a discussion of the barometrical observa- 
tions made during our stay on the shores of the lake, we have 
adopted 4,200 fert for its elevation above the Gulf of Mexico. 
In the first disappointment we felt from the dissipation of our 
dream of the fertile islands, I called this Disnppointmcnt island. 

Out of the drift-wood, we made ourselves pleasant little 
lodges, open to the water ; and, after having kindled large fires 
to excite the wonder of any straggling savage on the lake 
shores, lay down, for the first time in a long journey, in per- 
feet security ; no one thinking about his arms. The evening 
was extremely bright and pleasant ; but the wind rose during 
the night, and the waves began to break heavily on the shore, 



1843.] CAPT. fkejiont's narrative. 207 

making our island tremble. I had not expected in our inland 
journey to hear the roar of an ocean surf; and the strange- 
ness of our situation, and the excitement we felt in the associ- 
ated interest of the place, made this one of the most interesting 
niglits I made during our long expedition. 

In the morning, the surf was breaking heavily on the shore, 
and we were up early. The lake was dark and agitated, and 
we hurried through our scanty breakfast, and embarked — hav- 
ing first filled one of the buckets with water from the lake, of 
which it was intended to make salt. The sun had risen by 
the time we were ready to start ; and it was blowing a strong 
gale of wind, almost directly off the shore, and raising a con- 
siderable sea, in which our boat strained very much. It 
roughened as we got away from the island, and it re<|uired all 
the etlbrts of the men to make any head against the wind and 
sea, the gale rising with the sun ; and there was danger of 
being blown into one of the open reaches beyond the island. 
At the distance of half a mile from the beach, the depth of the 
water was 16 feet, with a clay bottom ; but, as the working of 
the boat was very severe labor, and during the operation of 
sounding it was necessary to cease paddling, during which the 
boat lost considerable way, I was unwilling to discourage the 
men, and reluctantly gave up my intention of ascertaining the 
depth and the character of the bed. There was a general 
shout in the boat when we found ourselves in one fathom, and 
we soon after landed on a low point of mud, immediately un- 
der the hdte of the peninsula, where we unloaded the boat, 
and carried the baggage about a quarter of a mile to fii-mer 
ground. We arrived just in time for meridian observation, 
and carried the barometer to the summit of the butte, which is 
500 feet above the lake. Mr. Preuss set off on foot for the 
camp, which was about nine miles distant ; Basil accompany- 
ing him, to bring back horses for the boat and baggage. 

The rude-looking shelter we raised on the shorc, our scat- 
tered baggage and boat lying on the beach, made quite a pic- 
ture ; and we called this the Fisherman' s camp. Lynosiris 
gravcohns, and another new species of obione, (O. confertifo- 
lia — Ton. 4* Frem.,) were growing on the low grounds, with 



208 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

interspersed spots of an unwholesome salt grass, on a saline 
clay soil, with a few other plants. 

The horses arrived late in the afternoon, by which time the 
gale had increased to such a height that a man could scarcely 
stand before it; and we were obliged to pack our baggage 
hastily, as the rising water of the lake had already reached 
the point where we were halted. Looking back as we rode 
off, we found the place of recent encampment entirely cover- 
ed. The low plain through which we rode to the camp was 
covered with a compact growth of shrubs of extraunlinary 
size and luxuriance. The soil was sandy and saline ; flat 
places, resembling the beds of ponds, that were bare of vegeta- 
tion, and covered with a powdery white salt, being interspersed 
among the shrubs. Artemisia tridentata was very abundant, 
but the plants were principally saline ; a large and vigorous 
chenopodiaccous shrub, five to eight feet high, being charac- 
teristic, with Fremontia vermicularis, and a shrubby plant 
which seems to be a new salicornia. We reached the camp 
in time to escape a thunder-storm which blackened the sky, and 
were received with a discharge of the howitzer by the peo- 
ple, who, having been unable to see any thing of us on the 
lake, had begun to feel some uneasiness. 

11th. — To-day we remained at this camp, in order to obtain 
some further observations, and to boil down the water which 
had been brought from tiie lake, for a supply of salt. Roughly 
evaporated over the fire, the five gallons of water yielded four- 
teen pints of very fine-grained and very white salt, of which 
the whole lake may be regarded as a saturated solution. A 
portion of the salt thus obtained has been subjected to analysis, 
giving, in 100 parts, the following proportions: 

Analysis of the sail. 

Chloride of sodium, (cominon salt,) - - - . 97"80 

Chloride of calcium, ...... OGl 

Chloride of mui^ncHium, .-..-. ()-24 

Sulphate of soda, ..-.-.. 0-23 

Sulphute of lime, ....... 112 

lt»0-00 
Glancing your eye along the map, you will see u small 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narkative. 209 

stream entering Utah lake, south of the Spanish fork, and the 
first waters of that lake which our road of 1844 crosses in 
coming up from the southward. When I was on this stream 
with Mr. Walker in that year, he informed me that on the up- 
per part of the river are immense beds of rcck-salt of very 
great thickness, which he had frequently visited. Farther to 
the southward, the rivers which are affluent to the Colorado, 
such -as the Rio Virgen, and Gila river, near their mouths, 
are impregnated with salt by the cliffs of rock-salt between 
which they pass. These mines occur in the same ridge in 
vhich, about 120 miles to the northward, and subsequently in 
their more immediate neighborhood, we discovered the fossils 
belonging to the oolitic period, and they are probably connect- 
ed with that formation, and are the deposite from wliich the 
Great Lake obtains its salt. Had we remained longer, we 
should have found them in its bed, and iij the mountains around 
its shores. By observation the latitude of this camp is 41° 15' 
50'^ and longitude 112° 06' 43". 

The observations made during our stay give for the rate of 
the chronometer 31-72''', corresponding almost exactly with the 
rate obtained at St. Vrain's fort. Barometrical observations 
were made almost hourly during the day. This morning we 
breakfasted on yampah, and had only kamas for supper ; but 
a cup of good coffee still distinguished us from our Digger ac-- 
quaintances. 

12th. — The morning was clear and calm, with a tempera- 
ture at sunrise of 32°. We resumed our journey late in the 
day, returning by nearly the same route which we had traveled 
in coming to the lake ; and, avoiding the passage of Hawthorn 
creek, struck the hills a little below tiie hot salt-springs. The 
flat plain we had here passed over consisted alternately of tolera- 
bly good sandy soil and of saline plats. We encamped early 
on Clear creek, at the foot of the high ridge ; one of the peaks 
of which we ascertained by measurement to be 4,210 feet 
above the lake, or about 8,400 feet above the sea. Behind 
these front peaks the ridge rises towards the Bear River moun- 
tains, which are probably as high as the Wind River chain. 
This creek is here unusually well timbered with a variety of 



210 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

trees. Among them were birch, (bctufa,) the narrow. leaved 
pophir, [populus angusii folia,) several kinds of willow, (^solix,) 
hawthorn, [cratcrgus,) alder, [a/nus viridis,) and cerastis, with 
an oak allied to quercns afba, but very distinct from that or any 
other species in the United States. 

We had to-night a supper of sea-gulls, which Carson killed 
near the lake. Although cool, the thermometer standing at 
47°, musquitoes were sufficiently numerous to be troublesome 
this evening. 

13th. — Continuing up the river valley, we crossed .several 
small streams ; the mountains on the right appearing to con- 
sist of the blue limestone which we had observed in the same 
ridge to the northward, alternating here with a granular quartz 
already mentioned. One of these streams, which forms a 
smaller lake near the river, was broken up into several chan- 
nels ; and the irrigated bottom of fertile soil was covered 
with innumerable flowers, among which were purple fields of 
eupator/iim purpureum, with holianthi, a handsome solidago, (S. 
canadensis,) and a variety of other plants in bloom. Continu- 
ing along the foot of the hills, in the afternoon we found five 
or six hot-springs gushing out together, beneath a conglomerate, 
consisting principally of fragments of a grayish-blue limestone, 
efflorescing a salt upon the surface. The temperature of these 
springs was 134°, and the rocks in the bed were colored with 
a red depositc, and there was common salt crystallized on the 
margin. There was also a white incrustation upon leaves and 
roots, consisting principally of carbonate of lime. There 
were rushes seen along the road this afternoon, and the soil 
under the hills was very black, and apparently very good ; 
but at this time the grass is entirely dried up. Wo encamped 
on Bear river, immediately below a cut-off, the canon by which 
thn river enters this valley bearing north by compass. The 
night was mild, with a very clear sky ; and I obtained a very 
excellent observation of an occultation of Tau. Arietis, with 
other observations. Both immersion and emersion of the star 
were observed ; but, as our observations have shown, the 
phase at the bright limb generally gives incorrect longitudes, 
and we liave adopted the result obtained from the emersion 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 211 

at the dark limb, without allowing any weight to the immer- 
sion. According to these observations, the longitude is 112° 
05' 12'^ and the latitude 41° 42' 43''. All the longitudes 
on the line of our outward journey, between St. Vrain's fort 
and the Dalles of the Columbia, which were not directly de- 
termined by satellites, have been chronomctrically referred to 
this place. 

The people to-day were rather low-spirited, hunger making 
them very quiet and peaceable ; and there was rarely an oath 
to be heard in the camp — not even a solitary enfant de garce. 
It was time for the men with an expected supply of provisions 
from Mr. Fitzpatrick to be in the neighborhood ; and the gun 
was fired at evening, to give notice of our locality, but met 
with no response. 

14th. — About four miles from this encampment, the trail 
led us down to the river, where we unexpectedly found an ex- 
cellent ford — the stream being widened by an island, and not 
yet disengaged from the hills at the foot of the range. We 
encamped on a little creek where we had made a noon halt in 
descending the river. The night was very clear and pleasant, 
the sunset temperature being 67°. 

The people this evening looked so forlorn, that I gave them 
permission to kill a fat young horse which I had purchased 
with goods from the Snake Indians, and they were very soon 
restored to gayety and good humor. Mr. Preuss and myself 
could not yet overcome some remains of civilized prejudices, 
and preferred to starve a little longer ; feeling as much sad- 
dened as if a crime had been committed. 

The next day we continued up the valley, the soil being 
sometimes very black and good, occasionally gravelly, and 
occasionally a kind of naked salt plains. We found on the 
way this morning a small encampment of two families of 
Snake Indians, from whom we purchased a small quantity of 
kooyah. They had piles of seeds, of three "different kinds, 
spread out upon pieces of buffalo robe ; and the squaws had 
just gathered about a bushel of the root of a thistle, (circium 
Virginiantim.) They were about the ordinary size of carrots, 
and, as I have previously mentioned, are sweet and well 



212 CAl'T. KllIiMONT's NAKKATIVE. [SePT. 

flavored, requiring only a long preparation. They had a band 
of twelve or fil'teen horses, and appeared to be growing in 
the sunshine with about as little labor as the plants they were 
eating. 

Shortly afterwards we met an Indian on horseback who had 
killed an antelope, which we purchased of him for a little 
powder and some balls. We crossed the Roseaux, and en- 
camped on the left bank ; halting early for the pleasure of 
enjoying a wholesome and abundant supper, and were pleasant- 
ly engaged in protracting our unusual comfort, when Tabeau 
galloped into the camp with news that Mr. Fitzpatrick was en- 
camped close by u.s, with a good supply of provisions — flour, 
rice, and dried meat, and even a little butter. Excitement to- 
night made us all wakeful ; and after a breakfast before sun- 
rise the next morning, we were again on the road, and, con- 
tinuing up the valley, crossed some high points of hills, and 
halted to noon on the same stream, near several lodges of 
Snake Indians, from whom we purchased about a bushel of 
service-berries, partially dried. By the gift of a knife. I pre- 
vailed upon a little boy to show me the kooyah plant, which 
proved to be Valeriana edulis. The root wliich constitutes the 
kooyah, is large, of a very bright yellow color, with the charac- 
teristic odor, but not so fully developed as in the prepared sub- 
stance. It loves the rich moist soil of river bottoms, which 
was the locality in which I always afterwards found it. It 
was now entirely out of bloom ; according to my observation, 
flowering in the months of May and June. In the afternoon 
we entered a long ravine leading to a pass in the dividing ridge 
between the waters of Bear river and the Snake river, or 
Lewis's fork of the Columbia ; our way being very much im- 
peded, and almost entirely blocked up, by compact fields of 
luxuriant artemisia. Taking leave at this point of the waters 
of Bear river, and of the geographical basin which encloses the 
system of rivers and creeks which belong to the (Ircat Salt 
Lake, and which so richly deserves a future detailed and ample 
exploration, I can say of it, in general terms, that the liot- 
toms of this river, (Bear,) and of some of the creeks which I 
saw, form a natural resting and recruiting station for travel- 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 213 

ers, now, and in all time to come. The bottoms are extensive ; 
water excellent ; timber sufficient ; the soil good, and well 
adapted to grains and grasses suited to such an elevated re- 
gion. A military post, and a civilized settlement, would be 
of great value here ; grass and salt so much abound. The 
lake will furnish exhaustless supplies of salt. All the moun- 
tains here are covered with a valuable nutritious grass, called 
bunch-grass, from the form in which it grows, which has a 
second growth in the fall. The beasts of the Indians were fat 
upon it ; our own found it a good subsistence ; and its quantity 
will sustain any amount of cattle, and make this truly a bucolic 
region. 

We met here an Indian family on horseback, which had 
been out to gather service-berries, and were returning loaded. 
This tree was scattered about on the hills ; and the upper part 
of the pass was timbered with aspen, (^populus trem. ;) the 
common blue flowering-flax occurring among the plants. The 
approach to the pass was very steep, and the summit about 
6,300 feet above the sea — probably only an uncertain approxi- 
mation, as at the time of observation it was blowing a violent 
gale of wind from the northwest, with cumuli scattered in 
masses over the sky, the day otherwise bright and clear. We 
descended, by a steep slope, into a broad open valley — good 
soil — from four to five miles wide, coming down immediately 
upon one of the head-waters of the Pannack river, Avhich here 
loses itself in swampy ground. The appearance of the coun- 
try here is not very interesting. On either side is a regular 
range of mountains of the usual character, with a little timber, 
tolerably rocky on the right, and higher and more smooth on 
the left, with still higher peaks looking out above the range. 
The valley afforded a good level road, but it was late when it 
brought us to water, and we encamped at dark. The north- 
west wind had blown up very cold weather, and the artemisia, 
which was our firewood to-night, did not happen to be very 
abundant. This plant loves a dry, sandy soil, and cannot 
grow in the good bottoms where it is rich and moist, but on every 
little eminence, where water does not rest long, it maintains 
absolute possession. Elevation above the sea about 5,100 feet. 



214 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

At night scattered fires glimmered along the mountains, 
pointing out camps of the Indians ; and we contrasted the com- 
parative security in which wc traveled tlirough this country, 
with the guarded vigilance we were compelled to exert among 
the Sioux and other Indians on the eastern side of the Rocky 
mountains. 

At sunset the thermometer was at 50°, and at midnight at 
30°. 

17th. — The morning sky was calm and clear, the tempera- 
ture at daylight being 25°, and at sunrise 20°. There is 
throughout this country a remarkable difference between the 
morning and mid-day temperatures, which at this season was 
very generally 40° or 50°, and occasionally greater ; and fre- 
quently, after a very frosty morning, the heat in a few iiours 
would render the thinnest clothing agreeable. About noon we 
reached the main fork. The Pannack river was before us, the 
valley being here 1^ miles wide, fertile, and bordered by 
smooth hills, not over 500 feet high, partly covered with ce- 
dar ; a high ridge, in which there is a prominent peak, rising 
behind those on the left. We continued to descend this stream, 
and found on it at night a warm and comfortable camp. Flax 
occurred so frequently during the day as to be almost a cha- 
racteristic, and the soil appeared excellent. The evening was 
gusty, with a temperature at sunset of 59°. I obtained, about 
midnight, an observation of an emersion of the first satellite, 
the night being calm and very clear, the stars remarkably 
bright, and the thermometer at 30°. Longitude, from mean 
of satellite and chronometer, 112° 29' 52'^, and latitude, by 
observation, 42° 44' 40''. 

18th. — The day clear and calm, with a temperature of 2.5° 
at sunVise. After traveling seven or eight miles, we emerged 
on the plains of the Columbia, in sight of the famous " Three 
Buttcs," a well-known landmark in the country, distant about 
45 miles. The French word butte, which so often occurs in 
this narrative, is retained from the familiar langungo of the 
country, and identifies the objects to which it refers. It is 
naturalized in the region of the Rncky mountains, and, even if 
desirable to render it in English, I know of no word which 



1843.] CAPT. fkejiont's xakuativs. 215 

would be its precise equivalent. It is applied lo the detached 
hills and ridges which rise rapidly, and reach too high to be 
called hills or ridges, and not high enough to be called moun- 
tains. Knob, as applied in the western states, is their descrip- 
tive term in English. Cerro is the Spanish term ; but no 
translation, or periphrasis, would preserve the identity of these 
picturesque landmarks, familiar to the traveler, and often seen 
at a great distance. Covered as far as could be seen with ar- 
temisia, the dark and ugly appearance of this plain obtained 
for it the name of Sage Desert ; and we were agreeably sur- 
prised, on reaching the Portneuf river, to see a beautiful green 
valley with scattered timber spread out beneath us, on which, 
about four miles distant, were glistening the white walls of the 
fort. The Portneuf runs along the upland plain nearly to its 
mouth, and an abrupt descent of perhaps two hundred feet 
brought us down immediately upon the stream, which at the 
ford is one hundred yards wide, and three feet deep, with 
clear water, a swift current, and gravelly bed ; but a little 
higher up the breadth was only about thirty-five yards, with 
apparently deep water. 

In the bottom I remarked a very great number of springs 
and sloughs, with remarkably clear water and gravel beds. 
At sunset we encamped with Mr. Talbot and our friends, who 
came on to Fort Hall when we went to the lake, and whom we 
had the satisfaction to find all well, neither party having met 
with any mischance in the interval of our separation. They, 
too, had had their share of fatigue and scanty provisions, as 
there had been very little game left on the trail of the populous 
emigration ; and Mr. Fitzi)atrick had rigidly husbanded our 
stock of flour and light provisions, in view of the approaching 
winter and the long journey before us. 

19th. — This morning the sky was very dark and gloomy, 
and at daylight it began snowing thickly, and continued all 
day, with cold, disagreeable weather. At sunrise the temper- 
ature was 43°. I rode up to the fort, and purchased from Mr. 
Grant (the officer in charge of the post) several very indiffer- 
ent horses, and five oxen, in very fine order, which were re- 
ceived at the camp with great satisfaction ; and, one being 



216 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

killed at evening, the usual gayety and good humor were ;it 
once restored. Night came in stormy. 

20th. — We had a night of snow and rain, and the thermom- 
eter at sunrise was at 84° ; the morning was dark, with a 
steady rain, and there was still an inch of snow on the ground, 
with an abundance on the neighboring hills and mountains. 
The sudden change in the weather was hard for our animals, 
who trembled and shivered in the cold — sometimes taking ref- 
uge in the timber, and now and then coming out and raking 
the snow off the ground for a little grass, or eating the young 
willows. 

21st. — Ice made tolerably thick during this night, and in the 
morning the weather cleared up very bright, with a tenipera- 
lure at sunrise of 29° ; and I obtained a meridian observation 
for latitude at the fort, with observations for time. The sky 
was again covered in the afternoon, and the thermometer at 
sunset 48°. 

22d. — The morning was cloudy and unpleasant, and at sun- 
rise a cold rain commenced, with a temperature of 41°. 

The early approach of winter, and the difiiculty of support- 
ing a largo partv, determined me to send back a number of 
the men who had become satisfied that they were not fitted for 
the laborious service and frequent privation to which they were 
necessarily exposed, and whicii there was reason to believe 
would become more severe in the further extension of the voy- 
age. I accordingly called them together, and, infljrming them 
of my intention to continue our journey during the ensuing 
winter, in the course of which they would probably be exposed 
to considerable hardship, succeeded in prevailing on a number 
of thrin to return voluntarily. These were : Charles de For- 
rest, Henry Lee, .1. C'anipbcll, Wm. Creuss, A. Vasquez, A. 
Pera, Patrick VViiite, K. Tesson, M. Creely, Francois Lajeu- 
nesse, Basil Lajeunesse. Among these I regretted very 
much to lose Basil Lajeunesse, one of the best men in my 
party, who was obliged, by the condition of his family, to be 
at home in th(> coming winter. Our preparations having been 
completed in the interval of our stay here, both parties were 
ready this morning to resume their respective routes. 



1843.] CAPT, Fremont's narrative. 217 

Except that there is a greater quantity of wood used in its 
construction, Fort Hall very much resembles the other trading 
posts which have already been described to you, and would be 
another excellent post of relief for the emigration. It is in the 
low rich bottom of a valley, apparently 20 miles long, formed 
by the confluence of Portneuf river with Lewis's fork of the 
Columbia, which it enters about nine miles below the fort, and 
narrowing gradually to the mouth of the Pannack river, where it 
has a breadth of only two or three miles. Allowing 50 miles 
for the road from the Beer springs of Bear river to Fort Hall, 
its distance along the traveled road from the town of Westport, 
on the frontier of Missouri, by way of Fort Laramie and the 
great South Pass, is 1,323 miles. Beyond this place, on the 
line of road along the barren valley of the Upper Columbia, 
there does not occur, for a distance of nearly 300 miles to the 
westward, a fertile spot of ground sufficiently large to produce 
the necessary quantity of grain, or pasturage enough to allow 
even a temporary repose to the emigrants. On their recent 
passage, they had been able to obtain, at very high prices and 
in insufficient quantity, only such assistance as could be afford- 
ed by a small and remote trading- post — and that a foreign one — 
which, in the supply of its own wants, had necessarily drawn 
around it some of the resources of civilization, but which ob- 
tained nearly all its supplies from the distant depot of Van- 
couver, by a difficult water-carriage of 250 miles up the Co- 
lumbia river, and a land-carriage by pack-horses of 600 miles. 
An American military post, sufficiently strong to give to their 
road a perfect security against the Indian tribes, who are un- 
settled in locality and very uncertain in their disposition, and 
which, with the necessary facilities for the repair of their 
equipage, would be able to afford them relief in stock and 
grain from the produce of the post, would be of extraordinary 
value to the emigration. Such a post (and all others which 
may be established on the line to Oregon) would naturally 
form the nucleus of a settlement, at which supplies and repose 
would be obtained by the emigrant, or trading caravans, which 
may hereafter traverse these elevated, and. in many places, 
desolate and inhospitable regions. 

19 



yi8 CAPT. frejio.nt's narrative. [Sept. 

I subjoin an analysis of the soil in the river bottom near 
Fort Hall, which will be of assistance in enabling you to form 
some correct idea of its general character in the neighboring 
country. I characterize it as good land, but the analysis will 
show its precise properties. 

Analysis of the Soil. 

Silicina 6855 

Alumina 745 

Carbonate of lime ...... 8ol 

Carbonate of magnesia . .... 5*09 

Oxide of iron ....... 1-40 

Organic vegetable matter . ... 4'74 

Water and loss . 4 ;26 



100-00 



Our observations place this post in longitude 112° 29' 54''', 
latitude 43° 01' 30'', and the elevation above the sea, 4,500 
feet. 

Taking leave of the homeward party, we resumed our jour- 
ney down the valley, the weather being very cold, and the 
rain coming in hard gusts, which the wind blew directly in our 
faces. We forded the Portneuf in a storm of rain, the water 
in the river being frequently up to the a.xles, and about 110 
yards wide. After the gust, the weather improved a little, 
and we encamped about three miles below, at the mouth of the 
Pannack river, on Lewis's fork, which here has a breadth of 
about r^O yards. The temperature at sunset was 42°; the 
sky partially covered with dark, rainy clouds. 

23d. — The temperature at sunri.se wa.s 32°; the morning 
dark, and snow falling steadily and thickly, with a light air 
from the southward. Profited of being obliged to remain in 
camp, to take hourly barometrical observations from sunrise to 
midniglit. The wind at eleven o'clock set in from the north- 
ward in heavy gusl.s, and the .snow changed into rain. In the 
ufternoun, when the sky brightened, the rain had washed all 
the snow from the bottoms ; but the neighboring mountains, 
from summit to Cnnt, were luminously white — an inauspicious 
commencement of the autumn, of which this was the first day. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 219 

24th. — The thermometer at sunrise was 35°, and a blue sky- 
in the west promised a fine day. The river bottoms here are 
narrow and swampy, with frequent sloughs ; and after cross- 
ing the Pannack, the road continued along the uplands, ren- 
dered very slippery by the soil of wet 'clay, and entirely cov- 
ered with artemisia bushes, among which occur frequent frag- 
ments of obsidian. At noon we encamped in a grove of 
willows, at the upper end of a group of islands about half a 
mile above the American falls of Snake river. Among the 
willows here, were some bushes of Lewis and Clarke's currant, 
[rihes aureum.) The river here enters between low mural 
banks, which consist of a fine vesicular trap-rock, the interme- 
diate portions being compact and crystalline. Gradually be- 
coming higher in its downward course, these banks of scoriatcd 
volcanic rock form, with occasional interruptions, its cliarac- 
teristic feature along the whole line to the Dalles of tiie Lower 
Columbia, resembling a chasm which had been rent through 
the country, and which the river had afterwards taken for its 
bed. The immediate valley of the river is a high plain cov- 
ered with black rocks and artemisias. In the south is a bor- 
dering range of mountains, which, although not very high, are 
broken and covered with snow ; and at a great distance to the 
north is seen the high, snowy line of the Salmon river moun- 
tains, in front of which stand out prominently in the plain the 
three isolated rugge(^looking mountains commonly known as 
the Three Buttes. Between the river and the distant Salmon 
river range, the plain is represented by Mr. Fitzpatrick as so 
entirely broken up and rent into chasms as to be impracticable 
for a man even on foot. In the sketch annexed, the point of 
view is low, but it conveys very well some idea of the open 
character of the country, with the buttes rising out above the 
general line. By measurement, the river above is 870 feet 
wide, immediately contracted at the fall in the form of a lock, 
by jutting piles of scoriaceous basalt, over which the foaming 
river must present a grand appearance at the time of high 
water. The evening was clear and pleasant, with dew ; and 
at sunset the temperature was 54^. By observation, the lati- 
tude is 420 47' 05", and the longitude 112° 40'' 13". A few 



220 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

hundred yards below the falls, and on tlie left bank of the river, 
is an escarpment from which we obtained some specimens. 

25th. — Thermometer at sunrise 47°, The day came in 
clear, with a strong gale from the south, which commenced at 
eleven of the last night. The road to-day led along the river, 
which is full of rapids and small falls. Grass is very scanty ; 
and along the rugged banks are scattered cedars, with an 
abundance of rocks and sage. We traveled fourteen miles, 
and encamped in the afternoon near the river, on a rocky 
creek, the bed of which was entirely occupied with boulders 
of a very large size. For the last three or four miles the 
right bank of the river has a palisaded appearance. One of 
the oxen was killed here for food. The thermometer at eve- 
ning was at 5.5°, the sky almost overcast, and the barometer 
indicated an elevation of 4,400 feet. 

26th. — Rain during the night, and the temperature at sun- 
rise 42°. Traveling along the river, in about four miles we 
reached a picturesque stream, to which we gave the name of 
Fall creek. It is remarkable for the many falls which occur 
in a short distance ; and its bed is composed of a calcareous 
tufa, or vegetable rock, composed principally of the remains 
of reeds and mosses, resembling that at the Basin spring, on 
Bear river. 

The road along the river bluffs had been occasionally very 
bad ; and imagining that some rough obstacles rendered such 
a detour necessary, we followed for several miles a plain 
wagon-road leading up this stream, until wc reached a point 
whence it could be seen making directly towards a low place 
in the range on the south side of the valley, and we became 
immediately aware that we were on a trail formed by a party 
of wagons, in company with whom we had encamped at Elm 
grove, near the frontier of Missouri, and which you will re- 
member were proceeding to Upper California under the direc- 
tion of Mr. .los. Chiles. At the time of their departure, no 
practicable passes were known in the southern Rocky moun- 
tains within the territory of the United States ; and the prob- 
able apprehension of difficulty in attempting to pass near the 
settled frontier of New Mexico, together with the desert char- 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 221 

acter of the unexplored region beyond, had induced them to 
take a more nortliern and circuitous route by way of the Sweet 
Water pass and Fort Hall. They had still between them and the 
valley of the Sacramento a great mass of mountains, forming 
the Sierra Nevada, here commonly known as the Great Call- 
fornia mountain, and which were at this time considered as 
presenting an impracticable barrier to wheeled-carriages. 
Various considerations had suggested to them a division of the 
party ; and a greater portion of the camp, including the wag- 
ons, with the mail and other stores, were now proceeding under 
the guidance of Mr. Joseph Walker, who had engaged to con- 
duct them, by a long sweep to the southward, around what is 
called the point of the mountain ; and, crossing through a pass 
known only to himself, gain the banks of the Sacrameato by 
the valley of the San Joaquin. It was a long and a hazardous 
journey for a party in which there were women and children. 
Sixty days was the shortest period of time in which they could 
reach the point of the mountain, and their route lay through a 
country inhabited by wild and badly-disposed Indians, and 
very poor in game ; but the leader was a man possessing great 
and intimate knowledge of the Indians, with an extraordinary 
firmness and decision of character. In the mean time, Mr. 
Chiles had passed down the Columbia with a party of ten or 
twelve men, with the intention of reaching the settlements on 
the Sacramento by a more direct course, which indefinite infor- 
mation from hunters had indicated in the direction of the head- 
waters of the Riviere aux Malheurs ; and having oijtained 
there a reinforcement of animals, and a supply of provisions, 
meet the wagons before they should have reached the point of 
the mountain, at a place which had been previously agreed 
upon. In the course of our narrative, we shall be able to give 
you some information of the fortunes which attended the move- 
ments of these adventurous travelers. 

Having discovered our error, we immediately regained the 
line along the river, which the road quitted about noon, and 
encamped at five o'clock on the stream called Raft river, {Ri- 
viire aux Cajeux,) having traveled only 13 miles. In the north, 
the Salmon River mountains are visible at a very far distance ; 

19* 



222 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

and on the left, the ridge in wiiich Raft river heads is about 20 
miles distant, rocky, and tolerably high. Thermometer at 
sunset 44°, with a partially clouded sky, and a sharp wind 
from the S.VV. 

27th. — It was now no longer possible, as in our previous 
journey, to travel regularly every day, and find at any mo- 
ment a convenient place for repose at noon or a camp at night ; 
but the halting-places were now generally fixed along the road, 
by the nature of the country, at places where, with water, 
there was a little scanty grass. Since leaving the American 
falls, the road had frequently been very bad ; the many short, 
steep ascents, exhausting the strength of our worn-out animals, 
requiring always at such places the assistance of the men to 
get ui» each cart, one by one ; and our progress with twelve 
or fourteen wheeled-carriages, though light and made for the 
purpose, in such a rocky country, was extremely slow ; and I 
again determined to gain time by a division of the camp. Ac- 
cordingly, to-day, the parties again separated, constituted very 
much as before — Mr. Fitzpatrick remaining in charge of the 
heavier baggage. 

The morning was calm and clear, with a wliite frost, and 
the temperature at sunrise 24°. 

To-day the country had a very forbidding appearance ; and, 
after traveling 20 miles over a slightly undulating plain, we 
encamped at a considerable spring, called Swamp creek, ris- 
ing in low grounds near the point of a spur from the moun- 
tain. Returning with a small party in a starving condition 
from the westward 12 or 14 years since, Carson had met here 
three or four bufi'alo bulls, two of which were killed. They 
were among the pioneers which had made the experiment of 
colonizing in the valley of the Columbia, and whicli had fail- 
ed, as heretofore stated. At sunset the thermometer was at 
46°, and the evening was overcast, with a cool wind from the 
S. E., and to-night we had only sage for firewood. Mingled 
with the artemisia was a shrubby and thorny chenopodiaceous 
plant. 

28th. — Thermometer at sunrise 40°. The wind rose early 
to a gale from the west, with a very cold driving rain ; and. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 228 

after an uncomfortable day's ride of 25 miles, we were glad 
when at evening we found a sheltered camp, where there was 
an abundance of wood, at some elevated rocky islands covered 
with cedar, near the commencement of another long canon of 
the river. With the exception of a short detention at a deep 
little stream called Goose creek, and some occasional I'ocky 
places, we had to-day a very good road ; but the country has 
a barren appearance, sandy, and densely covered with the ar- 
temisias from the banks of the river to the foot of the moun- 
tains. Here I remarked, among the sage bushes, green bunchy 
es of what is called the second growth of grass. The river 
to-day has had a smooth appearance, free from rapids, with a 
low sandy hill-slope bordering the bottoms, in which thei-e is a 
little good soil. Thermometer at sunset 45°, blowing a gale, 
and disagreeably cold. 

29th. — The thermometer at sunrise 36°, with a bright sun, 
and appearance of finer weather. The road for several miles 
was exlremely rocky, and consequently bad ; but, entering af- 
ter this a sandy country, it became very good, with no other in- 
terruption than the sage bushes, which covered the river plain 
as far as the eye could reach, and, with their uniform tint of 
dark gray, gave to the country a gloomy and sombre appear- 
ance. All the day the course of the river has been between 
walls of the black volcanic rock, a dark line of the escarp- 
ment on the opposite side pointing out its course, and sweeping 
alopc in foam at places where the mountains which border 
the valley present always on the left two ranges, the lower 
one a spur of the higher ; and, on the opposite side, the 
Salmon River mountains are visible at a great distance. Hav- 
ing made 24 miles, we encamped about five o'clock on Rock 
creek — a stream having considerable water, a swift current, 
and wooded with willow. 

30th. — Thermometer at sunrise 28°. In its progress towards 
the river, this creek soon enters a chasm of the volcanic rock, 
which in places along the wall presents a columnar appearance ; 
and the road becomes extremely rocky whenever it passes near 
its banks. It is only about twenty feet wide where the road 
crosses it, with a deep bed, and steep banks, covered with rocky 



224 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Sept. 

fragments, with willows and a little grass on its narrow bottom. 
The soil appears to be full of calcareous matter, with which 
the rocks are incrusted. The fragments of rock which had 
been removed by the emigrants in making a road, where we 
ascended from the bed of this creek, were whitened with lime; 
and during the afternoon's march I remarked in the soil a con- 
siderably quantity of calcareous concretions. Towards even- 
ing the sages became more sparse, and the clear spaces were 
occupied by tufts of green grass. The river still continued its 
course through a trough, or open canon ; and towards sunset 
we followed the trail of several wagons which had turned in 
towards Snake river, and encamped, as they had done, on the 
top of the escarpment. There was no grass here, the soil 
among the sage being entirely naked ; but there is occasionally 
a little bottom along the river, which a short ravine of rocks, 
at rare intervals, leaves accessible ; and by one of these we 
drove our animals down, and found some tolerably good grass 
bordering the water. 

Immediately opposite to us, a subterranean river bursts out 
directly from the face of the escarpujent, and falls in white 
foam to the river below. The main river is enclosed with 
mural precipices, which form its characteristic feature along a 
great portion of its course. A melancholy and strange-looking 
country — one of fracture, and violence, and fire. 

We had brought with us, when we separated from the camp, 
a large gaunt ox, in appearance very poor ; but, being killed 
to-night, to the great joy of the people, he was found to be 
riMiiarkably fat. As usual at such occurrences, the evening 
was devoted to gayety and feasting ; abundant fiire now made 
an epoch among us ; and in this laborious life, in such a coun- 
try as this, our men had but little else to enjoy. The temper- 
ature at sunset was G^y^, with a clear sky and a very high 
wind. By the observation of the evening, the encampment 
was in longitu<Ic 114° 2')' 04", and in latitude 42° 38' 44". 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 225 



OCTOBER. 

1st. — The morning clear, with wind from the west, and the 
thermometer at 5.5°. We descended to the bottoms, taking 
with us the boat, for the purpose of visiting the fall in the op- 
posite cliffs ; and while it was being filled with air, we occu- 
pied ourselves in measuring the river, which is 1,786 feet in 
breadth, with banks 200 feet high. We were surprised, on 
our arrival at the opposite side, to find a beautiful basin of 
clear water, formed by the falling river, around which the 
rocks were whitened by some saline incrustation. Here the 
Indians had constructed wicker dams, although I was informed 
that the salmon do not ascend the river so far ; and its charac- 
ter below would apparently render it impracticable. 

The ascent of the steep hill-side was rendered a little diffi- 
cult by a dense growth of shrubs and fields ofcane ; and there 
were frequent hidden crevices among the rocks, where the 
water was heard rushing below ; but we succeeded in reach- 
ing the main stream, which, issuing from between strata of the 
trap-rock in two principal branches, produced almost imme- 
diately a torrent, 22 feet wide, and white with foam. It is a 
picturesque spot of singular beauty, overshadowed by bushes, 
from under which the torrent glance's, tumbling into the white 
basin below, where the clear water contrasted beautifully with 
the muddy stream of the river. Its outlet was covered with a 
rank growth of canes, and a variety of unusual plants, and 
nettles, [urtica canabina,) which, before they were noticed, had 
set our hands and arms on fire. The temperature of the spring 
was 58°, while that of the river was 51°. The perpendicular 
height of the place at which this stream issues is 45 feet above 
the river, and 162 feet below the summit of the precipice — 
making nearly 200 feet for the height of the wall. On the 
hill-side here was obtained a specimen consisting principally 
of fragments of the shells of small Crustacea, and which was 
probably formed by deposition from these springs, proceeding 
from some lake or river in the highlands above. 

We resumed our journey at noon, the day being hot and 



226 CAPT. frEiMont's narhative. [Oct. 

bright ; and, after a marcli of 17 miles, encamped at sunset on 
the river, near several lodges of Snake Inilians. 

Our encampment was about one mile below the Fishing 
falls — a series of cataracts with very inclined planes, which 
are probably so named because they form a barrier to the as- 
cent of the salmon ; and the great fisheries, from which the 
inhabitants of this barren region almoiil entirely derive a sub- 
sistence, commence at this place. Thcse^ appeared to be un- 
usually gay savages, fond of loud laughter ; and, in their ap- 
parent good nature and merry character, struck me as being 
entirely different from the Indians we had been accustomed to 
see. From several who visited our camp in the evening, we 
purchased, in exchange for goods, dried Sainton. At this season 
they are not very fat, but we were easily pleased. The In- 
dians made us comprehend, that when the salmon came up the 
river in the spring, they are so abundant that they merely 
throw in their spears at random, certain of bringing out a fish. 

These poor people are but slightly provided with winter 
clothing ; there is but little game to furnish skins for the pur- 
pose ; and of a little animal which seemed to be the most numer- 
ous, it required 20 skins to make a covering to the knees. But 
they arc still a joyous, talkative race, who grow fat and be- 
come poor with the salmon, which at least never fail them — 
the dried being used in the absence of the fresh. We are en- 
camped immediately on the river bank, and with the salmon 
jumping up out of the water, and Indians paddling about in 
boats made of rushes, or laughing around the fires, the camp 
to-night has quite a lively apj)carance. 

The river at this place is more open than for some distance 
above, and, for the time, the black precipices have disappear- 
ed, and no calcareous matter is visible in the soil. The ther- 
mometer at sunset 74°, clear and calm. 

2d. — The sunrise temperature was 48° ; the weather clear 
and calm. Shortly after leaving the encampment, we crossed 
a stream of clear water, with a variable breadth of 10 to 25 
yards, broken by rapids, and lightly wooded with willow, and 
having a little grass on its small bottom-land. The barren- 
ness of the country is in fine contrast to-day with the mingled 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 227 

beauty and grandeur of the river, which is more open than 
hitherto, with a constant succession of falls and rapids. Over 
the edge of the black cliffs, and out from their faces, are fall- 
ing numberless streams and springs ; and all the line of the 
river is in motion with the play of the water. In about seven 
miles we reached the most beautiful and picturesque fall I 
had seen on the river. 

On the opposite side, the vertical i'all is perhaps 18 feet 
high ; and nearer, the sheet of foaming water is divided and 
broken into cataracts, where several little islands on the brink 
and in the river above, give it much picturesque beauty, and 
make it one of those places the traveler turns again and again 
to fix in his memory. There were several lodges of Indians 
here, from whom we traded salmon. Below this place the 
river makes a remarkable bend ; and the road, ascending the 
ridge, gave us a fine view of the river below, intersected at 
many places by numerous fish dams. In the north, about 
50 miles distant, were some high snowy peaks of the Salmon 
River mountains ; and in the northeast, the last peak of the 
range was visible at the distance of perhaps 100 miles or more. 
The river hills consist of very broken masses of sand, covered 
everywhere with the same interminable fields of sage, and oc- 
casionally the road is very heavy. We now frequently saw 
Indians, who were strung along the river at every little rapid 
where fish are to be caught, and the cry haggai, haggai, (fish,) 
was constantly heard whenever we passed near their huts, or 
met them in the road. Very many of them were oddly and 
partially dressed in overcoat, shirt, waistcoat, or pantaloons, 
or wiiatever article of clothing they had been able to procure 
in trade from the emigrants; for we had now entirely quitted 
the country where hawks' bells, beads, and vermilion were 
the current coin, and found that here only useful articles, and 
chiefly clothing, were in great request. These, however, are 
eagerly sought after ; and for a few trifling pieces of clothing, 
travelers may procure food sufficient to carry them to the 
Columbia. 

We made a long stretch across the upper plain, and en- 
camped on the bluff", where the grass was very green and 



228 CAPT. Fremont's narrative, [Oct. 

good, the soil of the upper plains containing a considerable pro- 
portion of calcareous matter. This green freshness of the 
grass was very remarkable for the season of the year. Again 
we heard the roar of the fall in the river below, where the 
water in an unbroken volume goes over a descent of several 
feet. The night is clear, and.the weather continues very warm 
and pleasant, with a sunset temperature of 70°. 

3d. — The morning was pleasant, with a temperature at sun- 
rise of 42°. The road was broken by ravines among the 
hills, and in one of these, which made the bed of a dry creek, 
I found a fragmentary stratum, or brecciated conglomerate, 
consisting of flinty slate pebbles, with fragments of limestone 
containing fossil shells. 

On the left, the mountains arc visible at the distance of 20 
or 30 miles, appearing smooth and rather low ; but at inter- 
vals higher peaks look out from beyond, and indicate that the 
main ridge, which we are leaving with the course of the river, 
and which forms the northern boundary of the Great Basin, 
still maintains its elevation. About two o'clock wo arrived at 
the ford where the road crosses to the right bank of Snake 
river. An Indian was hired to conduct us through the ford, 
which proved impracticable for us, the water sweeping away 
the howitzer and nearly drowning tlie mules, which we were 
obliged to extricate by cutting them out of the harness. The 
river here is expanded into a little bay, in which there are two 
islands, across which is the road of the ford ; and the emi- 
grants had passed by placing two of their heavy wagons abreast 
of each other, so as to oppose a considerable mass against the 
bodv of water. The Indians informed ns tliat one of the men, 
in attempting to turn some cattle whicii had taken a wrong di- 
rection, was carried off by the current and drowned. Since 
their passage, the water had risen considerably ; but, fortu- 
nately, we had a resource in a boat, which was filled with air 
and launched; and at seven o'clock we were safely encamped 
on the opposite bank, the animals swimming across, and the 
carriage, howitzer, and baggage of the camp, being carried 
over in the boat. At the place where we crossed, above the 
islands, the river had narrowed to a breadth of 1,049 feet by 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 229 

measurement, the greater portion of which was from six to 
eight feet deep. We were ohliged to make our camp where 
we landed, among the Indian lodges, which are semicircular 
huts made of willow, thatched over with straw, and open to the 
sunny south. By observation, the latitude of our encampment 
on the right bank of the river was 42° 55^ 58'^ ; chronometric 
longitude 115° 04' 46^'', and the traveled distance from Fort 
Hall 208 miles. 

4th. — Calm, pleasant day, with the thermometer at sunrise 
at 47°. Leaving the river at a considerable distance to the 
left, and following up the bed of a rocky creek, with oc- 
casional holes of water, in about six miles we ascended, by a 
long and rather steep hill, to a plain 600 feet above the river, 
over which we continued to travel during the day, having a 
broken ridge 2,000 or 3,000 feet high on the right. The plain 
terminates, where we ascended, in an escarpment of vesicular 
trap-rock, which supplies the fragments of the creek below. 
The sky clouded over with a strong wind from the northwest, 
with a few drops of rain and occasional sunlight, threatening 
a change. 

Artemisia still covers the plain, but Purshia tridentata 
makes its appearance here on the hill-sides and on bottoms of 
the creeks — quite a tree in size, larger than the artemisia. 
We crossed several hollows with a little water in them, and 
improved grass ; and, turning off from the road in the after- 
noon in search of water, traveled about three miles up the bed 
of a willow creek, towards the mountain, and found a good 
encamprffent, with wood and grass, and little ponds of water 
in the bed of the creek ; which must be of more importance 
at other seasons, as we found there several old fixtures for fish- 
ing. There were many holes on the creek prairie, wliich had 
been made by the Diggers in search of roots. 

Wind increased to a violent gale from the N. W., with a 
temperature at sunset of 57°. 

5th. — The morning was calm and clear, and at sunrise the 
thermometer was at 32°. The road to-day was occasionally 
extremely rocky, with hard volcanic fragments, and our travel- 
ing very slow. In about nine miles the roacW)rought us to a 

20 



230 cAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

group of smoking hot springs, with a temperature of 164°. 
There were a few helianthi in bloom, with some other low 
plants, and the place was green round about ; the ground warm 
and the air pleasant, with a summer atmosphere that was very 
gratetul in a day of high and cold, searcliiiig wind. The 
rocks were covered with a white and red incrustation ; and 
the water has on the tongue the same unpleasant elfect as that 
of the Basin spring on Bear river. They form several branch- 
es, and bubble up with force enough to raise the small peb- 
bles several inches. The following is an analysis of the deposite 
with which the rocks arc incrusted : 

Silica 72-55 

Carbonate of lime ....... 14'60 

Carbonate of maguesia --.... 1-20 

Oxide of iron 4-65 

Alumina --------- 0'70 

Chloride of sodium, iScc. ^ 

Sulphate of soda \ ..... 110 

Sulphate of lime, &c. J 

Organic vegetable matter ) r.on 

Water and loss S 

lOOUO 

These springs arc neur the foot of the ridge, (a dark and 
rugged-looking mountain,) in which some of the nearer rocks 
have a reddish appearance, and probably consist of a reddish- 
brown trap, fragments of which were scattered along tho road 
after leaving the spring. The road was now about to cross 
the point of this mountain, which we judged to be a spur from 
the Salmon River range. We crossed a small creek, and en- 
camped about sunset on a stream, which is probably Lake 
river. This is a small stream, some tive or six feet broad, 
with a swift current, timbered principally with willows and 
i-ome few cotton woods. Along the banks were canes, rose- 
bushes, and clematis, with Purshia tridentata and artemisias 
on the upper bottom. The sombre appearance of the country 
is soniewhat relieved in coming unexpectedly from the ilark 
rocks upon these green and wooded water-courses, sunk in 
chasms ; and, in the spring, the contrasted elfect must make 
them beautiful. 



1S43.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 231 

The thermometer at sunset 47°, and the night threatening 
snow. 

6th. — The morning warm, the thermometer 46° at sunrise, 
and sky entirely clouded. After traveling about three miles 
over an extremely rocky road, the volcanic fragments began 
to disappear; and, entering among the hills at the point of the 
mountain, we found ourselves suddenly in a granite country. 
Here, the character of the vegetation was very much changed ; 
the artemisia disappeared almost entirely, showing only at in- 
tervals towards the close of the day, and was replaced by 
Purshia tridentata, with flowering shrubs, and small fields of 
dieteria divaricata, which gave bloom and gayety to the hills. 
These were everywhere covered with a fresh and green short 
grass, like that of the early spring. This is the fall or second 
growth, the dried grass having been burnt off by the Indians ; 
and wherever the fire has passed, the bright, green color is 
universal. The soil among the hills is altogether different 
from that of the river plain, being in many places black, in 
others sandy and gravelly, but of a firm and good character, 
appearing to result from the decomposition of the granite rocks, 
which is proceeding rapidly. 

In quitting for a time the artemisia (sage) through which we 
had been so long voyaging, and the sombre appearance of 
which is so discouraging, I have to remark, that I have been 
informed that in Mexico wheat is grown upon the ground which 
produces tiiis shrub; which, if true, relieves the soil from the 
character of sterility imputed to it. Be this as it may, there 
is no dispute about the grass, which is almost universal on the 
hills and mountains, and always nutritious, even in its dry 
state. We passed on the way masses of granite on the slope 
of the spur, which was very much weathered and abraded. 
This is a white feldspathic granite, with small scales of black 
mica ; smoky quartz and garnets appear to constitute this por- 
tion of the mountain. 

The road at noon reached a broken ridge, on which were 
scattered many boulders or blocks of granite ; and, passing 
very small streams, where, witli a little more than the usual 
timber, was sometimes gathered a little wilderness of plants. 



232 cAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

we encamped on a small stream, after a march of 22 miles, in 
company with a few Indians. Temperature at sunset 51<J ; 
and the ni^ht was partially clear, with a few stars visible 
througii drifting white clouds. The Indians made an un- 
successful attempt to .steal a few horses from us — a thing of 
course with them, and to prevent w-hich the traveler is on per- 
petual watch. 

7th. — The day was bright, clear, pleasant, with a tempera- 
ture of 45°; and we breakfasted at sunrise, the birds singing 
in the trees as merrily as if we were in the midst of summer. 
On the upper edge of the hills on the opposite side of the creek, 
the black volcanic rock appears ; and ascending these, the 
road passed through a basin, around which the hills swept in 
such a manner as to give it the appearance of an old crater. 
Here were strata and broken beds of black scoriated rock, and 
hills composed of the same, on the summit of one of which 
there was an opening resembling a rent. We traveled to-day 
through a country resembling that of yesterday, where, al- 
though the surface was hilly, the road was good, being firm, 
and entirely free from rocks and artomisia. To our left, be- 
low, was the great sage plain ; and on the right were the near 
mountains, which presented a smoothly-broken character, or 
rather a surface waved into numberless hills. The road was 
occasionally enlivened by meeting Indians, and the day was 
extremely beautiful and pleasant ; and we were pleased to be 
free from the sage, even for a day. When we had traveled 
about eight miles, we were nearly opposite to the highest por- 
tion of the mountains on the left side of the Smoke River val- 
ley ; and, continuing on a few miles beyond, we came sud- 
denly in sight of the broad green line of the valley of the 
Riviere Bois^e, (wooded river,) black near the gorge where it 
debouches into the plains, with high precipices of basalt, be- 
tween walls of which it passes, on emerging from the moun- 
tains. Following with the eye its upward course, it appears 
to be shut in among lofty mountains, nuifining its valley in a 
very rugged country. 

Descending the hills, after traveling a few miles along the 
high plain, the road bnjnght us down upon the bottoms of the 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 233 

river, which is a beautiful, rapid stream, with clear mountain 
watei* ; and, as the name indicates, well wooded with some va- 
rieties of timber — among which are handsome cottonwoods. 
Such a stream had become quite a novelty in this country, and 
we were delighted this afternoon to make a pleasant camp under 
fine old trees again. There were several Indian encampments 
scattered along the river ; and a number of their inhabitants, 
in the course of the evening, came to the camp on horseback 
with dried and fresh fish, to trade. The evening was clear, 
and the temperature at sunset 57°. 

At the time of the first occupation of this region by parties 
engaged in the fur-trade, a small party of men, under the com- 
mand of Reid, constituting all the garrison of a small fort 

on this river, were surprised and massacred by the Indians ; 
and to this event the stream owes its occasional name of Reid's 
river. On the 8th we traveled about 26 miles, the ridge on 
the j'ight having scattered pines on the upper parts ; and, con- 
tinuing the next day our road along the river bottom, after a 
day's travel of 24 miles, we encamped in the evening on the 
right bank of the river, a mile above the mouth, and early the 
next morning arrived at Fort Boise. This is a simple dwelling- 
house on the right bank of Snake river, about a mile below the 
mouth of Riviere Boisee ; and on our arrival we were re- 
ceived with an agreeable hospitality by Mr. Payette, an officer 
of the Hudson's Bay Company, in charge of the fort, all of whose 
garrison consisted in a Canadian engage. 

Here the road recrosses the river, which is broad and deep ; 
but, with our good boat, aided by two canoes, which were 
found at the place, the camp was very soon transferred to the 
left bank. Here we found ourselves again surrounded by the 
sage ; artemisia tridentata, and the different shrubs which du- 
ring our voyage had always made their appearance abundantly 
on saline soils, being here the prevailing and almost the only 
plants. Among them the surface was covered with the usual 
saline efflorescences, which here consist almost entirely of car- 
bonate of soda, with a small portion of chloride of sodium. Mr. 
Payette had made but slight attempts at cultivation, his efforts 
being limited to raising a few vegetables, in which he succeed- 

20* 



234 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

ed tolerably well ; the post being principally supported by 
salmon. He was very hospitable and kind to us, and we made 
a sensible impression upon all his comestibles; but our princi- 
pal inroad was into the dairy, which was abundantly supplied, 
stock appearing to thrive extremely well ; and we had an un- 
usual luxury in a present of fresh butter, which was, however, 
by no means equal to that of Fort Hall — probably from some 
accidental cause. During the day we remained here, there 
were considerable numbers of miserable, half-naked Indians 
around the fort, who had arrived from the neighboring moun- 
tains. During the summer, the only subsistence of these peo- 
ple is derived from the salmon, of which they are not provident 
enough to lay up a sufHcicnt store for the winter, during which 
many of tliem die from absolute starvation. 

Many little accounts and scattered histories, together with 
an acquaintance which I gradually acquired of their modes of 
life, had left the aboriginal inhabitants of this vast region pic- 
tured in my mind as a race of people whose great and constant 
occupation was the means of procuring a subsistence ; and 
though want of space and other reasons will prevent me from 
detailing the many incidents which made this familiar to me, 
this great feature among the characteristics of the country will 
gradually be forced upon your mind. 

Pointing to the group of Indians who had just arrived from 
the mountains on the left side of the valley, and who were re- 
garding our usual appliances of civilization with an air of be- 
wildered curiosity, Mr. Payette informed me that, every year 
since his arrival at this post, he had unsuccessfully endeavored 
to induce these people to lay up a store of salmon for their 
winter provision. While the summer weather and the salmon 
lasted, they lived contentetlly and happily, scattered along the 
different streams where fish are to be found ; and as soon as 
the winter snows began to fall, little smokes would be seen 
rising among the mountains, where they would be found in 
miserable groups, starving out the winter ; and sometimes, ac- 
cording to the general brlief, reduced to the horror of canni- 
balism — the strou!:, of course, preying on the weak. Certain 
it is they are driven to any extremity for food, and eat every 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 235 

insect, and every creeping thing, however loathsome and re- 
pulsive. Snails, lizards, ants — all are devoured with the readi- 
ness and greediness of mere animals. 

In common with all the other Indians we had encountered 
since reaching the Pacific waters, these people use the Shosho- 
nee or Snake language, which you will have occasion to re- 
mark, in the course of the narrative, is the universal language 
over a very extensive region. 

On the evening of the 10th, I obtained, with the usual obser- 
vations, a very excellent emersion of the first satellite, agree- 
ing very nearly with the chronometer. From these observa- 
tions, the longitude of the fort is 116° 47' 00''", latitude 43^' 49' 
22'', and elevation above the sea 2,100 feet. 

Sitting by the fire on the river bank, and waiting for the 
immersion of the satellite, which did not take place until after 
midnight, we heard the monotonous song of the Indians, with 
which they accompany a certain game of which they are very 
fond. Of the poetry we could not judge, but the music w^as 
miserable. 

11th. — The morning was clear, with a light breeze from 
the east, and a temperature at sunrise of 33°. A part of a 
bullock purchased at the fort, together with the boat, to assist 
him in crossing, was left here for Mr. Fitzpatrick, and at 11 
o'clock we resumed our journey ; and directly leaving the 
river, and crossing the artemisia plain, in several ascents w^e 
reached the foot of a ridge, where the road entered a dry sandy 
hollow, up which it continued to the head ; and, crossing a 
dividing ridge, entered a similar one. We met here two poor 
emigrants, (Irishmen,) who had lost their horses two days 
since — probably stolen by the Indians ; and were returning to 
the fort, in hopes to hear something of them there. They had 
recently had nothing to eat ; and I halted to unpack an ani- 
mal, and gave them meat for their dinner. In this hollow, the 
artemisia is partially displaced on the hill-sides by grass ; 
and descending it — miles, about sunset we reached the 
Riviere aux Mulhcurs, (the unfortunate or unlucky river,) — a 
considerable stream, with an average breadth of 50 feet, and, 
at this time, 18 inches' depth of water. 



236 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

The bottom lands were generally one and a half mile broad, 
covered principally with long dry grass ; and we had difficulty 
to find sufficient good grass for the camp. With the exception 
of a bad place of a few hundred yards long, which occurred in 
rounding a point of hill to reach the ford of the river, tlic road 
during the day had been very good. 

12th. — The morning was clear and calm, and the thermom- 
eter at sunrise 23°. My attention was attracted by a smoke 
on the right side of the river, a little below the ford, where I 
found, on the low banks near the water, a considerable num- 
ber of hot springs, in which the temperature of the water was 
193°. The ground, which was too hot for the naked foot, was 
covered above and below the springs with an incrustation of 
common salt, very white and good, and fine-grained. 

Leading for five miles up a broad dry branch of the Malheurs 
river, the road entered a sandy hollow, where the surface was 
rendered firm by the admixture of other rock ; being good and 
level until arriving near the head of the ravine, where it be- 
came a little racky, and we met witii a number of sharp as- 
cents over an undulating surface. Crossing here a dividing 
ridge, it becomes an e.\cellent road of gradual descent down a 
very marked hollow ; in which, after ten miles, willows began 
to appear in tlie dry bed of a head of the Riviire aux BoukauXy 
(Birch river;) and descending seven miles, we found, at its 
junction with another branch, a little water, not very good or 
abundant, but sufficient, in case of necessity, for a camp. 
Crossing Birch river, we continued for about four miles across 
a point of hill ; the country on the left being entirely moun- 
tainous, with no level spot to be seen ; whence we descended 
to Snake river — here a line-looking stream, with a large body 
of water and a smooth current; although we hear the roar, 
and see below us the commencement of rapids, where it enters 
among the hills. It forms here a deep bay, with a low sand 
island in the midst ; and its course among tiie mountains is 
agreeably exchanged for the black volcanic rock. The 
weather during the day had been very bright and extremely 
hot ; but, as usual, so soon as the sun went down, it was neces- 
sary to put on overcoats. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 237 

I obtained this evening an observation of an emersion of the 
first satellite, and our observations of the evening place this 
eneampmefnt in latitude 44° 17^ 36'^, and longitude 116° 56^ 
45'^, which is the mean of the results from the satellite and 
chronometer. The elevation above the sea is 1,880 feet. At 
this encampment, the grass is scanty and poor. 

13th. — The morning was bright, vi'ith the temperature at 
sunrise 28°. The horses had strayed off during the night, 
probably in search of grass ; and, after a considerable delay, 
we had succeeded in finding all but two, when, about nine 
o'clock, we heard the sound of an Indian song and drum ap- 
proaching ; and shortly after, three Cayuse Indians appeared 
in sight, bringing with them the two animals. They belonged 
to a party which had been on a buftlilo-hunt in the neighbor- 
hood of the Rocky mountains, and were hurrying home in ad- 
vance. We presented them with some tobacco and other 
things, with which they appeared well satisfied, and, moderating 
their pace, traveled in company with us. 

We were now about to leave the valley of the great southern 
branch of the Columbia river, to which the absence of timber, 
and the scarcity of water, give the appearance of a desert, to 
enter a mountainous region, where the soil is good, and in 
which the face of the country is covered with nutritious grasses 
and dense forest — land embracing many varieties of trees pe- 
culiar to the country, and on which the timber exhibits a luxu- 
riance of growth unknown to the eastern part of the continent 
and to Europe. This mountainous region connects itself in 
the southward and westward with the elevated country be- 
longing to the Cascade or California range ; and, as will be 
remarked in the course of the narrative, forms the eastern 
limit of the fertile and timbered lands along the desert and 
mountainous region included within the Great Basin — aterm 
which I apply to the intermediate region between the Rocky 
mountains and the next range, containing many lakes, with 
their own system of rivers and creeks, (of which the Great 
Salt is the principal,) and which have no connection with the 
ocean, or the great rivers which flow into it. This Great Basin 
is yet to be adequately explored. And here, on quitting the 



23S cAi'T. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

banks of a sterile river, to enter on arable mountains, the re- 
mark may be made, that, on this western slope of our continent, 
the usual order or distribution of good and bad soilMs often re- 
versed ; the river and creek bottoms being often sterile, and 
darkened with the gloomy and barren artemisia ; while the 
mountain is often fertile, and covered with rich grass, pleasant 
to the eye, and good for flocks and herds. 

Leaving entirely the Snake river, which is said henceforth 
to pursue its way through canons, amidst rocky and imprac- 
ticable mountains, where there is no possibility of traveling 
with animals, we ascended a long and steep hill ; and crossing 
the dividing ridge, came down into the valley o{ Burnt river, 
which here looks like a hole among the hills. The average 
breadth of the stream here is thirty feet ; it is well fringed 
with* the usual small timber; and the soil in the bottoms is 
good, with better grass than we had lately been accustomed to 
see. 

We now*traveled through a very mountainous country ; the 
stream running rather in a ravine than a valley, and tlie road 
is decidedly bud and dangerous for single wagons, frequently 
crossing the stream where the water is sometimes deep ; and 
all the day the animals were fatigued in climbing up and de- 
scending a succession of steep ascents, to avoid the precipitous 
hill-sides ; and the common trail, which leads along the moun- 
tain-side at places where the river strikes the base, is some- 
times bad even for a horseman. The mountains along this 
day's journey were composed, near the river, of a slaty cal- 
careous rock in a metamorphic condition. It appears origi- 
nally to have been a slaty sedimentary limestone, but its 
present condition indicates that it has been altered, and has 
become partially crystalline — probably from the pro.ximity of 
volcanic rocks. But though traveling was slow and fatiguing 
to the animals, we were delighted with the appearance of the 
country, which was green and refreshing after our tedious 
journey down the parched valley of Snake river. The moun- 
tains were covered with good bunch-gra.ss, {fesluca;) the 
water of the streams was cold and pure ; their bottoms were 
handsomely wooded with various kinds of trees ; and huge and 



1843.] CfM'T. fremo.n't's narrative. 239 

lofty picturesque precipices where the river cut through the 
mountain. 

We found in the evening some good grass and rushes ; and 
encamped among large timber, principally birch, which had 
been recently burnt, and blackened, and almost destroyed by 
fire. The night was calm and tolerably clear, with the ther- 
mometer at sunset at 59°. Our journey to-day was about 
twenty miles. 

14th. — The day was clear and calm, witli a temperature at 
sunrise of 46°. After traveling about three miles up the 
valley, we found the river shut up by precipices in a kind of 
canon, and the road makes a circuit over the mountains. In 
the afternoon we reached the river again, by another little 
ravine ; and, after traveling along it for a few miles, left it en- 
closed among rude mountains ; and, ascending a smaller 
branch, encamped on it about five o'clock, very much elevated 
above the valley. The view was everywhere limited by 
mountains, on which were no longer seen the black and barren 
rocks, but a fertile soil, with excellent grass, and partly well 
covered with pine. I have never seen a wagon-road equally 
bad in the same space, as this of yesterday and to-day. I 
noticed where one wagon had been overturned twice, in a very 
short distance ; and it was surprising to me that those wagons 
which were in the rear, and could not have had much assist- 
ance, got through at all. Still, there is no mud ; and the road 
has one advantage, in being perfectly firm. The day had been 
warm and very pleasant, and the night was perfectly clear. 

1.5th. — The thermometer at daylight was 42°, and at sun- 
rise 40° ; clouds, which were scattered over all the sky, dis- 
appeared with the rising sun. The trail did not much im- 
prove until we had crossed the dividing-ground between the 
BriiUe (Burnt) and Powder rivers. The rock displayed on the 
mountains, as we approached the summit, was a compact trap, 
decomposed on the exposed surficcs, and apparently an altered 
argillaceous sandstone, containing small crystalline nodules of 
anolcime, apparently filling cavities originally existing. From 
the summit here, the whole horizon shows high mountains ; 
no high plain or level is to be seen ; and on the left, from south 



240 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

around by the west to north, the mountains are black with 
pines ; wiiilc, through the remaining space to the eastward, 
they are bald, with the exception of some scattered pindS. 
You will remark that we are now entering a region where all 
the elevated parts are covered with dense and heavy forests. 
From the dividing-grounds we descended by a mountain-road 
to Powder river, on an old bed of which we encamped. De- 
scending from the summit, we enjoyed a picturesque view of 
high rocky mountains on the right, illuminated by the setting 
sun. 

From the heights we had looked in vain for a well-known 
landmark on Powder river, which had been described to me 
by Mr. Payette as Varbre seul, (the lone tree ;) and, on arriving 
at the river, we found a fine tall pine stretched on the ground, 
which had been felled by some inconsiderate emigrant axe. 
It had been a beacon on the road for many years past. Our 
Cayuses had become impatient to reach their homes, and trav- 
eled on ahead to day ; and this afternoon we were visited by 
several Indians who belonged to the tribes on the Columbia. 
They were on horseback, and were out on a hunting excur- 
sion, but had obtained no better game than a large gray hare, 
of which each had some six or seven hanging to his saddle. 
We were also visited by an Indian who had his lodge and 
family in the mountain to the left. He was in want of ammu- 
nition, and brought with him a beaver-skin to exchange, and 
which ho valued at six charges of powder and ball. I learned 
from him that there are very few of these animals remaining 
in this part of the country. 

The temperature at sunset was 61°, and the evening clear. 
I obtained, with other observations, an immersion and emersion 
of the third satellite. Elevation 3,100 feet. 

IGth. — For several weeks the weather in the daytime iias 
been very beautiful, clear, and warm ; but the nights, in com- 
parison, lire very cold. During the night there was ice a quar- 
ter of an inch thick in the lodge ; and at daylight the thermo- 
meter was at IG-^, and the same at sunrise, the weather being 
calm and clear. The annual vegetation now is nearly gone, 
almost all the plants being out of blootn. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 241 

Last night two of our horses had run off again, wliich delay- 
ed us until noon, and we made to-day but a short journey of 
13 miles, the road being very good, and encamped in a fine 
bottom of Powder river. • 

The thermometer at sunset was at 61°, with an easterly 
wind, and partially clear sky ; and the day has been quite 
pleasant and warm, though more cloudy than yesterday ; and 
the sun was frequently faint, but it grew finer and clearer to- 
wards evening. 

17th. — Thermometer at sunrise 25°. The weather at day- 
light was fine, and the sky without a cloud ; but these came 
up, or were formed by the sun, and at seven were thick over 
all the sky. Just now, this appears to be the regular course — 
clear and brilliant during the night, and cloudy during the 
day. There is snow yet visible in the neighboring mountains, 
which yesterday extended along our route to the left, in a lofty 
and dark-blue range, having much the appearance of the Wind 
River mountains. It is probable that they have received their 
name of the Blue mountains from the dark-blue appearance 
given to them by the pines. We traveled this morning across 
the affluents to Powder river, the road being good, firm, and 
level, and the country became constantly more pleasant and 
interesting. The soil appeared to be very deep, and is black 
and extremely good, as well among the hollows of the bills on 
the elevated plats, as on the river bottoms, the vegetation being- 
such as is usually found in good ground. The following ana- 
lytical result shows the precise qualities of this soil, and will 
justify to science the character of fertility which the eye at^ 
tributes to it : 

Analysis of Powder river soil. 

Silica 72-30 

Alumina ..-...., 6-25 

Carbonate of lime ....... ()-86 

Carbonate of magnesia .-.-.. 4-62 

0.\ide of iron 1-20 

Organic matter ....... 4-50 

Water and loss ----.... 4-27 

10000 
21 



242 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

From the waters of this stream, the road ascended by a good 
and moderate ascent to a dividing ridge, but immediately en- 
tered upon ground covered with fragments of an altered sili- 
cious slate, •which are in many places large, and render the 
road racking to a carriage. In this rock the planes of deposi- 
tion are distinctly preserved, and the metamorphism is evident- 
ly due to the proximity of volcanic rocks. On either side, the 
mountains here are densely covered with tall and handsome 
trees ; and, mingled with the green of a variety of pines, is the 
yellow of the European larch, {piims larix,) which loses its 
leaves in the foil. From its present color, we were enabled to 
see that it forms a large proportion of the forests on the moun- 
tains, and is here a magnilicent tree, attaining sometimes the 
height of 200 feet, which I believe is elsewhere unknown. 
About two in tlie afternoon we reached a high point of the di- 
viding ridge, from which we obtained a good view of the Grand 
Rond — a beautiful level basin, or mountain valley, covered 
with good grass, on a rich soil, abundantly watered, and sur- 
rounded by high and well-timbered mountains — and its name 
descriptive of its form — the great circle. It is a place-^— one 
of the few we have seen on our journey so far — where a farmer 
would delight to establish himself, if he were content to live in 
the seclusion which it imposes. It is about 20 miles in diame- 
ter, and may, in time, form a superb county. Probably with 
the view of avoiding a circuit, the wagons had directly de- 
.scended into the Rond by the face of a hill so very rocky and 
continuously steep as to be apparently impracticable, and, fol- 
lowing down on their trail, we encamped on one of the branches 
of the Grand Rond river, immediately at the foot of the hill. I 
had remarked, in descending, some very white spots glistening 
on the plain, and, going out in that direction after we had en- 
camped, I found them to be the bed of a dry salt lake, or 
marsh, very firm and bare, which was covered thickly with a 
fine white powder, containing a large quantity of carbonate of 
.soda, (thirty-three in one hundred parts.) 

The old grass had been lately burnt ofT from the surround- 
ing liills, and, wherever the fire had passed, there was a recent 
growth of strong, green, and vigorous grass ; and the soil of 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 243 

the level prairie, which sweeps directly up to the foot of the 
surrounding mountains, appears to be very rich, producing 
flax spontaneously and luxuriantly in various places. 

Analysis of Grand Rond soil. 

Silica, 70-81 

Alumina, 10-97 

Lime and magnesia, ..-..- 1-38 

Oxide of iron, 2-21 

Vegetable matter, partly decomposed, ... 816 

Water and loss, -..-... 5*46 

Phosphate of lime, ....... 1-01 

100-00 
The elevation of this encampment is 2,940 feet above the sea. 
18th. — It began to rain an hour before sunrise, and con- 
tinued until ten o'clock ; the sky entirely overcast, and the 
temperature at sunrise 48°. 

We resumed our journey somewhat later than usual, travel- 
ing in a nearly north direction across the beautiful valley ; and 
about noon reached a place on one of the principal streams, 
where I had determined to leave the emigrant trail, in the ex- 
pectation of finding a more direct and better road across the 
Blue mountains. At this place the emigrants appeared to 
have held some consultation as to their further route, and finally 
turned directly off to the left; reaching the foot of the moun- 
tain in about three miles, which they ascended by a hill 
as steep and difficult as that by which we had yesterday de- 
scended to the Rond. Quitting, therefore, this road, which, af- 
ter a very rough crossing, issues from the mountains by the 
heads of the Umaiilah river, we continued our northern course 
across the valley, following an Indian trail which had been 
indicated to me by Mr. Payette, and encamped at the northern 
extremity of the Grand Rond, on a slough-like stream of very 
deep water, without any apparent current. There are some 
pines here on the low hills at the creek ; and in the northwest 
corner of the Rond is a very heavy body of timber, which de- 
scends into the plain. The clouds, which had rested very low 
along the mountain sides during the day, rose gradually up in 
the afternoon ; and in the evening the sky was almost entirely 



244 CAi'T. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

clear, with a temperature at sunset of 47°. Some indifferent 
observations placed the camp in longitude 117° 28' 26'"', lati- 
tude 45° 26' 47" ; and the elevation was 2,600 feet above 
the sea. 

19th. — This morning the mountains were hidden by fog ; 
there was a heavy dew during the night, in which the exposed 
thermometer at daylight stood at 32°, and at sunrise the tem- 
perature was 35°. 

We passed out of the Grand Rond by a fine road along the 
creek, which, for a short distance, runs in a kind of rocky 
chasm. Crossing a low point, wliich was a little rocky, the 
trail conducted into the open valley of the stream — a handsome 
place for farms ; the soil, even of the hills, being rich and 
black. Passing through a point of pines, which bore evidences 
of being very much frequented by the Indians, and in which 
the trees were sometimes apparently 200 feet high, and three 
to seven feet in diameter, we halted for a few minutes in the 
afternoon at the foot of the Blue mountains, on a branch of the 
Grand Rond river, at an elevation of 2,700 feet. Rtsuming 
our journey, we commenced the ascent of the mountains 
through an open pine forest of large and stately trees, among 
which the balsam pine made its appearance ; the road being 
good, with the exception of one steep ascent, with a corres- 
ponding descent, which might both have been easily avoided 
by opening the way for a short distance through tlie timber. 
It would have been well had we encamped on the stream where 
we had halted below, as the night overtook us on the mountain, 
and we were obliged to encamp without water, and tie up the 
animals to the trees for the night. We halted on a smooth 
open place of a narrow ridgo, which descended very rapidly to 
a ra'#!ne or piny hollow, at a considerable distance below ; and 
it was quite a pretty spot, had there been water near. But 
the fires at night look very cheerless after a day's march, 
when there is no preparntion fnr supper going on ; and, after 
sitting some time around the blazing logs, Mr. Preuss and 
Carson, with several others, volunteered to take the India-rub- 
ber buckets and go down into the ravine in .search of water. 
It was a very diflicult way in the darkness down the slippery 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 245 

side of the steep mountain, and harder still to climb about half 
a mile up again ; but they found the water, and the cup of 
coffee (which it enabled us to make) and bread were only en- 
joyed with greater pleasure. 

At sunset the temperature was 46° ; the evening remarka- 
bly clear ; and I obtained an emersion of the first satellite, 
which does not give a good result, although the observation 
was a very good one. The chronometric longitude was 117° 
28' 34'^ latitude 45° 38' 07'', and we had ascended to an 
elevation of 3,830 feet. It appeared to have snowed yes- 
terday on the mountains, their summits showing very white 
to-day. 

20th. — There was a heavy ^vhite frost during the night, and 
at sunrise the temperature was 37°. 

The animals had eaten nothinji; duringr the night : and we 

o o o ^ 

made an early start, continuing our route among the pines, 
which were more dense than yesterday, and still retained their 
magnificent size. The larches cluster together in masses on the 
side of the mountains, and their yellow foliage contrasts hand- 
somely with the green of the balsam and other pines. After a 
few miles we ceased to see any pines, and the timber consisted 
of several varieties of spruce, larch, and balsam pine, which 
have a regularly conical figure. These trees appeared from GO 
to nearly 200 feet in height ; the usual circumference being 10 
to 12 feet, and in the pines sometimes 21 feet. In open places 
near the summit, these trees became less high and more branch- 
ing, the conical form having a greater base. The instrument 
carriage occasioned much delay, it being frequently necessary 
to fell trees and remove the fallen timber. The trail we were 
following led up a long spur, with a very gradual and gentle 
rise. At the end of three miles, we halted at an open place 
near the summit, from which we enjoyed a fine view over the 
mountainous country where we had lately traveled, to take a 
barometrical observation at the height of 4,460 feet. 

After traveling occasionally through open places in the 
forest, we were obliged to cut a way through a dense body of 
timber, from which we emerged on an open mountain-side, 
where we found a number of small springs, and encamped 

21* 



246 cAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

after a day's journey of ten miles. Our elevation here was 
5,000 feet. 

21st. — There was a very heavy white frost during the night, 
and the thermometer at sunrise was 30°. 

We continued to travel through the forest, in which tlie road 
was rendered difficult by fallen trunks, and obstructed by 
many small trees, which it was necessary to cut down. But 
these are only accidental difficulties, which could easily be re- 
moved, and a very excellent road may be liad through this 
pass, with no other than very moderate ascents or declivities. 
A laborious day, which had advanced us only six miles on the 
road, brought us in the afternoon to an opening in the forest, 
in which there was a fine mount-ain meadow, with good grass, 
and a large clear-wutcr stream — one of the head branches of 
the Umatilah river. During this day's journey, the barometer 
was broken ; and the elevations above the sea, hereafter given, 
depend upon the temperature of boiling water. Some of the 
white spruces which I measured to-day were twelve feet in 
circumference, and one of the larches ten ; but eight feet was 
the average circumference of those measured along the road. 
I held in my hand a tape line as I walked along, in order to 
form some correct idea of the size of the timber. Their height 
appeared to be from 100 to 180, and perhaps 200 feet, and the 
trunks of the larches were sometimes 100 feet without a limb; 
but the white spruces were generally covered with branches 
nearly to the root. All these trees have their branches, par- 
ticularly the lower ones, declining. 

22d. — The white frost this morning wus like snow on the 
ground ; the ice was a quarter of an inch thick on the creek, 
and the thermometer at sunrise was at 20°. But, in a few 
hours, the day became warm and pleasant, and our road over 
the mountains was delightful and full of enjoyment. 

The trail passed sometimes through very thick young timber, 
in which there was much cutting to be done ; but, after travel- 
ing a few miles, the n)ountains became more bald, and we 
reached a point from which there was a very e.xtensive view 
in the northwest. We were on the wi-stern verge of the Blue 
mountains, long spurs of which, very precipitous on either side, 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narkative. 247 

extended down into the valley, the waters of the mountain 
roaring between them. On our right was a mountain plateau, 
covered with a dense forest ; and to the westward; immediate- 
ly below us, was the great Nez Perce (pierced nose) prairie, in 
which dark lines of timber indicated the course of many afflu- 
ents to a considerable stream that was pursuing its way across 
the plain towards what appeared to be the Columbia river. 
This I knew to be the Walahwalah river, and occasional spots 
along its banks, which resembled clearings, were supposed to 
be the mission or Indian settlements ; but the weather was 
smoky and unfavorable to far views with the glass. The rock 
displayed here in the escarpments is a compact amorphous trap, 
which appears to constitute the mass of the Blue mountains in 
this latitude ; and all the region of country through which we 
have traveled since leaving the Snake river has been the seat 
of violent and extensive igneous action. Along the Burnt 
River valley, the strata are evidently sedimentary rocks, altered 
by the intrusion of volcanic products, which in some instances 
have penetrated and essentially changed their original condi- 
tion. Along our line of route from this point to the California 
mountains, there seems but little essential change. All our 
specimens of sedimentary rocks show them much altered, and 
volcanic productions appear to prevail throughout the whole 
intervening distance. 

The road now led along the mountain side, around heads of 
the precipitous ravines ; and keeping men ahead to clear the 
road, we passed alternately through bodies of timber and small 
open prairies, and encamped in a large meadow, in view of the 
great prairie below. 

At sunset the thermometer was at 40^, and the night was 
very clear and bright. Water was only to be had here by 
descending a bad ravine, into which we drove our animals, and 
had much trouble with them in a very close growth of small 
pines. Mr. Preuss had walked ahead and did not get into the 
camp this evening. The trees here maintained their size, and 
one of the black spruces measured 15 feet in circumference. 
In the neighborhood of the camp, pines have reappeared here 
amonof the timber. 



248 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

'23(J. — Thr> morning was very clear ; there had been a heavy 
white frost during the niglit, and at sunrise the thermometer 
was at 31°. 

After cutting througli two thick bodies of timber, in which 
I noticed some small trees of hemlock spruce, (perusse,) the 
forest became more open, and we had no longer any trouble to 
clear a way. The pines here were 11 or 12 feet in circum- 
ference, and about 110 feet high, and appeared to love the 
open grounds. The trail now led along one of the long spurs 
of the mountain, descending gradually towards the plain ; and 
after a few miles traveling, we emerged finally from the forest, 
in full view of the plain below, and saw the snowy mass of 
Mount Hood, standing high out above the surrounding country 
at the distance of 180 miles. The road along the ridge was 
excellent, and the grass very green and good ; the old grass 
having been burnt off early in the autumn. About 4 o'clock 
in the afternoon we reached a little bottom of the Walahwalah 
river, where we found Mr. Preuss, who yesterday had reached 
this place, and found himself too far in advance of the camp 
to return. The stream here has just issued from the narrow 
ravines, which are walled with precipices, in which the rock 
has a brown and more burnt appearance than above. 

At sunset the thermometer was at 48°, and our position was 
in longitude 118° GO" 39'', and in latitude 45o 53' 35". 

The morning was clear, with a temperature at sunrise of 
24'^. Crossing the river, we traveled over a hilly country 
with a good bunch-grass ; the river bottom, which generally 
contains the best soil in other countries, being here a sterile 
level of rocks and pebbles. We had found the soil in the Blue 
mountains to be of excellent quality, and it appeared also to be 
good here among the lower hills. Reaching a little eminence 
over which the trail passed, we had an extensive view along 
the course of the river, which was divided and spread over its 
bottom in a network of water, receiving several other tribu- 
taries from the moimfains. There was a band of several hun- 
dred horses grazing on the hills about two miles ahead ; anil 
as we advanced on the road we met other bands, which Indians 
were driving out to pasture also on the hills. True to its gen- 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 249 

eral character, the reverse of other countries, «the hills and 
mountains here were rich in grass, the bottoms barren and 
sterile. . 

In six miles we crossed a principal fork, below which the 
scattered waters of the river were gathened into one channel ; 
and, passing on the way several unfinished houses, and some 
cleared patches, where corn and potatoes were cultivated, we 
reached, in about eight miles further, the missionary establish- 
ment of Dr. Whitman, which consisted at this time of one 
adobe house — i. e., built of unburnt bricks as in Mexico. 

I found Dr. Whitman absent on a visit to the Dalles of the 
Columbia ; but had the pleasure to see a fine-looking family 
of emigrants, men, women, and children, in robust health, all 
indemnifying themselves for previous scanty fare, in a hearty 
consumption of potatoes, which are produced here of a remark- 
ably good quality. We were disappointed in our expectation 
of obtaining corn-meal or flour at this station, the mill belong- 
ing to the mission having been lately burned down : but an 
abundant supply of excellent potatoes banished regrets, and 
furnished a grateful substitute for bread. A small town of 
Nez Perce Indians gave an inhabited and even a populous ap- 
pearance to the station ; and, after remaining about an hour, 
we continued our route and encamped on the river about four 
miles below, passing on the way an emigrant encampment. 

Temperature at sunset, 49°. 

25th. — The weather was pleasant, with a sunrise tempei'a- 
ture of 36*^. Our road to-day had nothing in it of interest ; 
and the country offered to the eye only a sandy, undulating 
plain, through which a scantily-timbered river takes its course. 
We halted about three miles above the mouth, on account of 
grass ; and the next morning arrived at the Nez Perce fort, 
one of the trading establishments of the Hudson Bay Company, 
a few hundred yards above the junction of the Walahwalah with 
the Columbia river. Here we had the first view of this river, and 
found it about 1,200 yards wide, and presenting the appear- 
ance of a fine, navigable stream. We made our camp in a 
little grove of willows on the Walahwalah, which are the only 
trees to be seen in the neighborhood ; but were obliged to send 



250 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

the animals back to the encanipincnt uc had left, as there was 
scarcely a blade of grass to be found. The post is on the 
bank of the Columbia, on a plain of bare sands, from which the 
air was literally filled with clouds of dust and sand, during one 
of the few days we refnained here ; this place being one of the 
several points on the river which are distinguished for prevail- 
ing high winds, that come from the sea. The appearance of 
the post and country was without interest, except that we here 
saw, for the first time, the great river on which the course of 
events for the last half century has been directing attention and 
conferring historical fame. The river is, indeed, a noble ob- 
ject, and has here attained its full magnitude. About nine 
miles above, and in sight from the heights about this post, is 
the junction of the two great forks which constitute the main 
stream — that on which we had been traveling from Fort Hall, 
and known by the names of Lewis's fork, Shoshonee, and 
Snake river; and the North fork, which has retained the 
name of Columbia, as being the main stream. 

Wf did not go up to the junction, being pressed for time ; 
but tln' union of two large streams, coming one from the south- 
east, and the other from the northeast, and meeting in what 
may be treated as the geographical centre of the Oregon val- 
ley, thence doubling the volume of water to the ocean, while 
openiilg two great lines of communication with the interior 
continent, constitutes a feature in the map of the country 
which cannot be overlooked ; and it was probably in reference 
to this junction of waters, and these lines of communication, 
that this post was established. They are important lines, and, 
from tlie structure of the country, must forever remain so, 
— one of them leading to the Soutli Pass and to the valley of 
the Mississippi, the other to the pass at the head of the Atha- 
basca river, and to the countries drained by the waters of the 
Hudson liay. The British fur companies now use both lines ; 
the Americans, in their emigration to Oregon, have begun to 
follow the one which leads towards the United States. Bateaux 
from tide-water ascend to the junction, and thence high up 
the North fork, or Columbia. Land conveyance only is used 
upon the line of Lewis's fork. To the emigrants to Oregon, 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 251 

the Nez Perce is a point of great interest, as being, to those 
who choose it, the termination of their overland journey. The 
broad expanse of the river here invites them to embark on its 
bosom ; and the lofty trees of the forest furnish the means of 
doing so. 

From the South Pass to this place is about 1,000 miles ; and 
as it is about tiie same distance from that pass to the Missouri 
river at the mouth of the Kansas, it may be assumed that 2,000 
miles is the necessary land travel in crossing from the 'United 
States to the Pacific ocean on this line. From the mouth of 
the Great Platte it would be about 100 miles less. 

Mr. McKinley, the commander of the post, received us with 
great civility ; and both to myself, and the heads of the emi- 
grants who were there at the time, extended the rights of hos- 
pitality in a comfortable dinner to which he invited us. 

By a meridional altitude of the sun, the only observation 
that the weather permitted us to obtain, the mouth of the Wa- 
lahwalah river is in latitude 46° 03' 46^'' ; and, by the road we 
had traveled, 612 miles from Fort Hall. At the time of our 
arrival, a considerable body of emigrants, under the direction 
of Mr. Applegate, a man of considerable resolution and energy, 
had nearly completed the building of a number of Mackinaw 
boats, in which they proposed to continue their further voyage 
down the Columbia. I had seen, in descending the Walahwa- 
lah river, a fine drove of several hundred cattle, which they 
had exchanged for California cattle, to be received at Vancou- 
ver, and which are considered a very inferior breed. The 
other portion of the emigration had preferred to complete their 
journey by land along the banks of the Columbia, taking their 
stock and wagons with them. 

Having reinforced our animals with eight fresh horses, hired 
from the post, and increased our stock of provisions with dried 
salmon, potatoes, and a little beef, we resumed our journey 
down the left bank of the Columbia, being guided on our road 
by an intelligent Indian boy, wliom I had engaged to accom- 
})any us as far as tlie Dalles. 

From an elevated point over which the road led, we obtained 
another far view of Mount Hood, 150 miles distant. We ob- 



252 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Oct. 

tained on the river bank an observation of the sun at noon, 
which gave for the latitude 45° 58' 08'^. The country to-day 
was very unprepossessing, and our road bad ; and as we toiled 
slowly along through deep loose sands, and over fragments of 
black volcanic rock, our laborious traveling was strongly con- 
trasted with the rapid progress of Mr. Applegate's fleet of 
boats, which suddenly came gliding swiftly down the broad 
river, which here chanced to be tranquil and smooth. At even- 
ing we encamped on the river bank, where there was very 
little grass, and less timber. We frequently met Indians on 
the road, and they were collected at every favorable spot along 
the river. 

29th. — The road continued along the river, and in the course 
of the day Mount St. Helens, another snowy peak of the Cas- 
cade range, was visible. We crossed the Umatilah river at a 
fall near its mouth. This stream is of the same class as the 
Walahwaluh river, with a bed of volcanic rock, in places split 
into fissures. Our encampment was similar to that of yester- 
day ; there was very little grass, and no wood. The Indians 
brought us some pieces for sale, which were purchased to make 
our fires. 

31st. — By observation, our camp is in latitude 45'^ 50' 05'', 
and longitude 119° 22' 18". The night has been cold, and 
we have white frost this morning, with a temperature at day- 
light of 25°, and at sunrise of 24°. The early morning was 
very clear, and the stars bright ; but, as usual, since we are 
on the Columbia, clouds formed immediately with the rising 
sun. The day continued fine, the east being covered with 
scattered clouds, but the west remaining clear, showing the 
remarkable cone-like peak of Mount IIocxl brightly drawn 
against the sky. This was in view all day in the southwest, 
but no other peaks of the range were visible. Our road was 
a bad one, of very loose, deep sand. We n)et on the way a 
party of Indians unusually well-dressed. They appeared in- 
telligent, and, in our slight intercourse, impressed me with 
■the belief that they possessed some aptitude for acquiring lan- 
guages. 

Wc continued to travel along the river, the stream being 



1843.] CAPT. F7JE:.iora\s aakrative. 253 

interspersed with many sand-bars (it being the season of low 
water) and with many islands, and an apparently good navi- 
gation. Small willows were the only wood ; rock and sand 
the prominent geological feature. The rock of this section is 
a very compact and tough basalt, occurring in strata which 
have the appearance of being broken into fragments, assuming 
the form of columnar hills, and appearing always in escarp- 
ments, with the broken fragments strewed at the base and over 
the adjoining country. 

We made a late encampment on the river, and used to-night 
the purshia tridentata for firewood. Among the rocks which 
formed the bank, was very good green grass. Latitude 45° 
44' 23'', longitude 11 9° 45' 09". 



NOVEMBER. 



1st. — Mount Hood is glowing in the sunlight this morning, 
and the air is pleasant, with a temperature of 38°. We con- 
tinued down the river, and, passing through a pretty green 
valley, bounded by high precipitous rocks, encamped at the 
lower end. 

On the right shore, the banks of the Columbia are very high 
and steep ; the river is 1,690 feet broad, and dark blulfs of 
rock give it a picturesque appearance. 

2d. — The river here entered among bluffs, leaving no longer 
room for a road ; and we accordingly left it, and took a more 
inland way among the river hills — on which we had no sooner 
entered, than we found a great improvement in the country. 
The sand had disappeared, and the soil was good, and covered 
with excellent grass, although the surface was broken into high 
hills, with uncommonly deep valleys. At noon we crossed 
John Day's river, a clear and beautiful stream, with a swift 
current and a bed of rolled stones. It is sunk in a deep val- 
ley, which is characteristic of all the streams in this I'cgion ; 
and the hill we descended to reach it well deserves the name 

22 



254 CAPT. frejiont's narrative. [Nov. 

of mountain. Some of the emigrants had encamped on the 
river, and others at the summit of the farther hill, the ascent 
of which had probably cost their wagons a day's labor ; and 
others again had halted for the night a few miles beyond, 
whore they had slept without water. We also encamped in a 
grassy hollow without water ; but, as we had been forewarned 
of this privation by the guide, the animals had all been water- 
ed at the river, and we had brought with us a sufficient quan- 
tity for the night. 

3d. — After two hours' ride through a fertile, hilly country, 
covered, as all the upland here appears to be, with good green 
grass, we descended again into the river bottom, along which 
we resumed our sterile road, and in about four miles reached 
the ford of the Fall river, (Riviire anx Chutes,) a considerable 
tributary to the Columbia. We had heard, on reaching the 
Nez Perce fort, a repetition of the account in regard to the un- 
settled character of the Columbia Indians at the present time ; 
and to our little party they had at various points manifested a 
not very friendly disposition, in .several attempts to steal our 
horses. At this place I expected to find a badly-disposed band, 
who had plundered a party of 14 emigrant men a few days 
before, and taken away their horses ; and accordingly we made 
the necessary preparation for our security, but happily met 
with no difficulty. 

The river was high, divided into several arms, with a rocky 
island at its outlet into the Columbia, which at this place it 
rivalled in size, and apparently derived its highly characteris- 
tic name, which is received from one of its many falls some 
forty miles up the river. It entered the Columbia with a roar 
of falls and rapids, a.id is probably a favorite fishing station 
among the Indians, with whom both banks of the river were 
populous ; but they scarcely paid any attention to us. The 
ford was very difficult at this time, and, had they entertained 
any bad intentions, they were otlered a gobd opportunity to 
carry them out, as I drove directly into the river, and during 
the crossing the howitzer was occasionally several feet under 
water, and a number of the men appeared to be more often be- 
low than above. Our guide was well acquainted with the 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 255 

ford, ana we succeeded in getting every thing safe over to the 
left bank. We delayed here only a short time to put the gun 
in order, and, ascending a long mountain hill, resumed our 
route again among the interior hills. 

The roar of the Falls of the Columbia is heard from the 
heights, where we halted a few moments to enjoy a fine view 
of the river below. In the season of high water, it would be 
a very interesting object to visit, in order to witness what is re- 
lated of the annual submerging of the fall under the waters 
which back up from the basin below, constituting a great natu- 
ral lock at this place. But time had become an object of 
serious consideration ; and the Falls, in their present state, had 
been seen and described by many. 

After a day's journey of 17 miles, we encamped among the 
hills on a little clear stream, where, as usual, the Indians im- 
mediately gathered round us. Among them was a very old 
man, almost blind from age, with long and very white hair. I 
happened of my own accord to give this old man a present of 
tobacco, and was struck with the impression which my unpro- 
pitiated notice made on the Indians, who appeared in a remark- 
able manner acquainted with the real value of goods, and to 
understand the equivalents of trade. At evening, one of them 
spoke a few words to his people, and, telling me that we need 
entertain no uneasiness in regard to our animals, as none of 
them would be disturbed, they went all quietly away. In the 
morning, when they again came to the camp, I expressed to them 
the gratification we felt at their reasonable conduct, making 
them a present of some large knives and a few smaller articles. 

4th. — The road continued among the hills, and, reaching an 
eminence, we saw before us, watered by a clear stream, a tol- 
erably large valley, through which the trail passed. 

In comparison with the Indians of the Rocky mountains and 
the great eastern plain, these are disagreeably dirty in their 
habits. Their huts were crowded with half-naked women and 
children, and the atmosjihere within was any thing but pleasant 
to persons who had just been riding in the fresh morning air. 
We were somewhat amused with the scanty dress of a woman, 
who, in common with the others, rushed out of the huts on our 



256 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Nov. 

arrival, and who, in default of other covering, used a child for 
a fig- leaf. 

The road in about half an hour passed near an elevated 
point, from which wo overlooked the valley of the Columbia 
for many miles, and saw in the distance several houses sur- 
rounded by fields, which a chief, who had accomj)anicd us 
from the village, pointed out to us as the Methodist missionary 
station. 

In a few miles we descended to the river, which we reached 
at one of its remarkably interesting features, known as the 
Dalles of the Columbia. The whole volume of the river at this 
place passed between the walls of a chasm, which has the ap- 
pearance of having been rent through the basaltic strata which 
form the valley-rock of the region. At the narrowest place 
we found the breadth, by measurement, 58 yards, and the 
average height of the walls above the water 25 feet ; forming 
a trough between the rocks — whence the name, probably ap. 
plied by a Canadian voyageur. The mass of water, in the 
present low state of the river, passed swiftly between, deep and 
black, and curled into many small whirlpools and counter cur- 
rents, but unbroken by foam, and so still that scarcely the 
sound of a ripple was heard. The rock, for a considerable 
distance from the river, was worn over a large portion of its 
surface into circular holes and well-like cavities, by the abra- 
sion of the river, which, at the season of high waters, is spread 
out over the adjoining bottoms. 

In the recent passage through this chasm, an unfortunate 
event had occurred to Mr. Appiegate's party, in the loss of one 
of their boats, which had been carried under water in the midst 
of tiic Dalles, and two of Mr. Appiegate's children and one 
man drowned. This misfortune was attributed only to want 
of skill in the steersman, as at this season there was no inipedi- 
ment to navigation ; although the place is entirely impassable 
at high wator, when boats pass safely over the great falls above, 
in the submerged state in which they then find themselves. 

The basalt hero is precisely the same as that which consti- 
tutes the rock of the valley higher up the Columbia, being very 
compact, with a few round cavities. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's nakrative. 257 

We passed rapidly three or four miles down the level valley, 
and encamped near the mission. The character of the forest 
growth here changes, and we found ourselves, with pleasure, 
again among oaks and other forest-trees of the east, to which 
we had long been strangers ; and the hospitable and kind re- 
ception with which we were welcomed among our country 
people at the mission, aided the momentary illusion of home. 

Two good-looking wooden dwelling-houses, , and a large 
schoolhouse, with stables, barn, and garden, and large cleared 
fields between the houses and the river bank, on which were 
scattered the wooden huts of an Indian village, gave to the 
valley the cheerful and busy air of civilization, and had in our 
eyes an appearance of abundant and enviable comfort. 

Our land journey found here its western termination. The 
delay involved in getting our camp to the right bank of the 
Columbia, and in opening a road through the continuous forest 
to Vancouver, rendered a journey along the river impractica- 
ble ; and on this side the usual road acroas the mountain re- 
quired strong and fresh animals, tiiere being an interval of three 
days in which they could obtain no food. I therefore wrote 
immediately to Mr. Fitzpatrick, directing him to abandon the 
carts at the Walahwalah missionary station, and, as soon as 
the necessary pack-saddles could be made, which his party re- 
quired, meet me at the Dalles, from which point I proposed to 
commence our homeward journey. The day after our arrival 
being Sunday, no business could be done at the mission ; but 
on Monday, Mr. Perkins assisted me in procuring from the 
Indians a large canoe, in which I designed to complete our 
journey to Vancouver, where I expected to obtain the necessary 
supply of provisions and stores for our winter journey. Three 
Indians, from the family to whom the canoe belonged, were 
engaged to assist in working her during the voyage, and, with 
them, our water party consisted of Mr. Preuss and myself, 
with Bernier and Jacob Dodson. In charge of the party which 
was to remain at the Dalles I left Carson, with instructions to 
occupy the people in making pack-saddles and refitting their 
equipage. The village from which we were to take the canoe 
was on the right bank of the river, about ten miles below, at 

22* 



258 CAPT. Fremont's narkative. [Nov. 

the mouth of the Tinanens creek ; and while Mr. Preuss pro- 
ceeded down the river with the instruments, in a little canoe 
paddled by two Indians, Mr. Perkins accompanied me with 
the remainder of the party by land. The lust of the emigrants 
had just left the Dalles at the time of our arrival, traveling 
some by water and others by land, making ark-like rafts, on 
which they had embarked their families and households, with 
their large wagons and other furniture, while their stock were 
driven along the shore. 

For about five miles below the Dalles, the river is narrow, 
and probably very deep ; but during this distance it is some- 
what open, with grassy bottoms on the left. Entering, then, 
among the lower mountains of the Cascade range, it assumes 
a general character, and high and steep rocky hills shut it in 
on cither side, rising abruptly in places to the height of fifteen 
hundred feet above the water, and gradually acquiring a 
more mountainous character as the river approaches the 
Cascades. 

After an hour's travel, when the sun was nearly down, we 

searched along the shore for a pleasant place, and halted to 

prepare supper. We had been well supplied by our friends at 

the mission with delicious salted salmon, which had been taken 

at the fattest season ; also, with potatoes, bread, cotTee, and 

sucrar. We were deliiihted at a change in our mode of travel- 
er Co 

ing and living. The canoe sailed smoothly down the river ; 
at night we encamped upon the shore, and a plentiful supply 
of comfortable provisions supplied the first of wants. We en- 
joyed the contrast which it presented to our late toilsome march- 
ings, our night watchings, and our frequent privation of food. 
We were a motley group, but all happy : three unknown In- 
dians ; Jacob, a colored man ; Mr. Preuss, a German ; Bernier, 
Creole French; and myself. 

Being now upon the ground explored by the South Sea 
expedition under Captain Wilkes, and having accomplished 
the object of uniting my survey with his, and thus presenting 
a connected exploration from the Mississippi to the Pacific, 
and the winter being at hand, I deemed it necessary to econo- 
mize time by voyaging in the night, as is customary here, to 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 259 

avoid the high winds, which rise with the morning, and decline 
with the day. 

Accordingly, after an hour's halt, we again embarked, and 
resumed our pleasant voyage down the river. The wind rose 
to a gale after several hours ; but the moon was very bright, 
« and the wind was fair, and the canoe glanced rapidly down the 
stream, the waves breaking into foam alongside ; and our night 
voyage, as the wind bore us rapidly along between the dark 
mountains, was wild and interesting. About midnight we put 
to the shore on a rocky beach, behind which was a dark-look- 
ing pine forest. We built up large fires among the rocks, 
which were in large masses round about ; and, arranging our 
blankets on the most sheltered places we could find, passed a 
delightful night. 

After an early breakfast, at daylight we resumed our jour- 
ney, the weather being clear and beautiful, and the river 
smooth and still. On either side the mountains are all pine- 
timbered, rocky, and high. We were now approaching one 
of the marked features of the lower Columbia where the river 
foi'ms a great cascade, with a series of rapids, in breaking 
through the range of mountains to which the lofty peaks of 
Mount Hood and St. Helens belong, and which rise as great 
pillars of snow on either side of the passage. The main 
branch of the Sacramento river, and the Tlamath, issue in 
cascades from this range ; and the Columbia, breaking through 
it in a succession of cascades, gives the idea of cascades to 
the whole range ; and hence the name of Cascade Range, 
which it bears, and distinguishes it from the Coast Range lower 
down. In making a short turn to the south, the river forms 
the cascades in breaking over a point of agglomerated masses 
of rock, leaving a handsome bay to the right, with several 
rocky, pine-covered islands, and the mountains sweep at a dis- 
tance around a cove where several small streams enter the 
bay. In less than an hour we halted on the left bank, about 
five minutes' walk above the cascades, where there were several 
Indian huts, and where our guides signified it was customary 
to hire Indians to assist in making the portfire. When travel- 
ing with a boat as light as a canoe, which may easily be car- 



260 CAPT. Fremont's narkative. [Nov. 

ried on the shoulders of the Indians, this is much the better 
side of the river for the portage, as the ground here is very 
good and level, being a handsome bottom, which I remarked 
was covered (as was noio always the case along the river) with 
a growth of green and fresh-looking grass. It was long be- 
fore we could come to an understanding with the Indians ; but 
to length, when they had first received the price of their assist- 
ance in goods, they went vigorously to work ; and, in a shorter 
time than had been occupied in making our arrangements, the 
canoo, instruments, and baggage, were carried through (a 
distance of about half a mile) to the bank below the main 
cascade, where we again embarked, the water being white 
with foam among ugly rocks, and boiling into a thousand whirl- 
pools. The boat passed with great rapidity, crossing and re- 
crossing in the eddies of the current. After passing through 
about two miles of broken water, we ran some wild looking 
rapids, which are called the Lower Rapids, being the last on 
the river, which below is tranquil and smooth — a broad, mag- 
nificent stream. On a low broad point on the right bank of 
the river, at the lower end of these rapids, were pitched many 
tents of the emigrants, who were waiting here for their friends 
from above, or for boats and provisions which were expected 
from Vancouver. In our passage down the rapids, I had 
noticed their camps along tiie shore, or transporting their 
goods across the portage. This portage makes a head of navi- 
gation, ascending the river. It is about two miles in length ; 
and above, to the Dalles, is 45 miles of smooth and good navi- 
gation. 

We glided on without further interruption between very 
rocky and high steep mountains, which sweep along the river 
valley at a little distance, covered with forests of pine, and 
showing occasionally lofty escarpments of red rock. Nearer, 
the shore is bordered by steep escarped hills and huge vertical 
rf)eks, from which the waters of the niountain reach the river 
in a variety of beautiful falls, sometimes several hundred feet 
in height. Occasionally along the river occurred pretty bot- 
toms, covered with the greenest verdure of the spring. To a 
professional farmer, however, it docs not oiler many places of 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 261 

sufficient extent to be valuable for agriculture ; and after 
passing a few miles below the Dalles, I had scarcely seen a 
place on the south shore where wagons could get to the river. 
The beauty of the scenery was heightened by the continuance 
of very delightful weather, resembling the Indian summer of 
the Atlantic. A few miles below the cascades we passed a 
singular isolated hill ; and in the course of the next six miles 
occurred five very pretty falls, from the heights on the left 
bank, one of them being of a very picturesque character ; and 
towards sunset we reached a remarkable point of rocks, distin- 
guished, on account of prevailing high winds, and the delay it 
frequently occasions to the canoe navigation, by the name of 
Cape Horn. It borders the river in a high wall of rock, which 
comes boldly down into deep water ; and in violent gales down 
the river, and from the opposite shore, which is the prevailing 
direction of strong winds, the water is dashed against it with 
considerable violence. It appears to form a serious obstacle 
to canoe traveling; and I was informed by Mr. Perkins, that 
in a voyage up the river he had been detained two weeks at 
this place, and was finally obliged to return to Vancouver. 

The winds of this region deserve a particular study. They 
blow in currents, which show them to be governed by fixed 
laws ; and it is a problem how far they may come from the 
mountains, or from the ocean through the breaks in the moun- 
tains which let out the river. 

The hills here had lost something of their rocky appearance, 
and had already begun to decline. As the sun went down, 
we searched along the river for an inviting spot ; and, finding 
a clean rocky beach, where some large dry trees were lying 
on the ground, we ran our boat to the shore ; and, after another 
comfortable supper, ploughed our way along the river in dark- 
ness. Heavy clouds covered the sky this evening, and the 
wind began to sweep in gusts among the trees, as if bad weather 
were corning. As we advanced, the hills on both sides grew 
constantly lower ; on the right, retreating from the shore, and 
forming a somewhat extensive bottom of intermingled prairie 
and wooded land. In the course of a few hours, and opposite 
to a small stream coming in from the north, called the Tea 



262 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Nov. 

Prairie river, the highlands on the left declined to the plains, 
and three or four miles more disappeared entirely on both sides, 
and the river entered the low country. The river had gradu- 
ally expanded ; and when we emerged from the highlands, the 
opposite shores were so distant as to appear indistinct in the^ 
uncertainty of the light. About ten o'clock our pilots halted, 
apparently to confer about the course ; and, after a little hesi- 
tation, pulled directly across an open expansion of the river, 
where the waves were somewhat rough for a canoe, the wind 
blowing very fresh. Much to our surprise, a kw minutes af- 
terwards we ran aground. Backing oft' our boat, we made 
repeated trials at various places to cross what appeared to be a 
point of shifting sand-bars, where we had attempted to shorten 
the way by a cut-ofi'. Finally, one of our Indians got into the 
water, and waded about until he found a channel sufficiently 
deep, through which we wound along after him, and in a few 
minutes again entered the deep water below. As we paddled 
rapidly down the river, we heard the noise of a saw-mill at 
work on the right bank ; and, letting our boat float quietly 
down, we listened with pleasure to the unusual sounds, and 
before midnight, encamped on the bank of the river, about a 
mile above Fort Vancouver. Our fme dry weather had given 
place to a dark cloudy night. At midnight it began to rain ; 
and we found ourselves suddenly in the gloomy and humid 
season, which, in the narrow region lying between the Pacific 
and the Cascade mountains, and for a considerable distance 
along the coast, supplies the place of winter. 

In the morning, the first object that attracted my attention 
was the barque Columbia, lying at anchor near the landing. 
She was about to start on a voyage to England, and was now 
ready for sea; being detained only in waiting the arrival of 
the express bateaux, which descend the Columbia and its north 
fork with the overland mail from Canada and Hudson's Bay, 
which liad been delayed beyond the usual time. I immediately 
waited upon Dr. iMcLaughlin, the executive oHiccr of the Ilud- 
.son Bay Company, in the territory west of the Rocky moun- 
tains, who received nje with the courtesy and hospitality for 
which he has been eminently distinguished, and which makes 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 263 

a forcible and delightful impression on a traveler from the long 
wilderness from which we had issued. I was immediately 
supplied by him with the necessary stores and provisions to re- 
fit and support my party in our contemplated winter journey 
to the States ; and also with a Mackinaw boat and canoes, 
manned with Canadian and Iroquois voyageurs and Indians, 
for their transportation to the Dalles of the Columbia. In ad- 
dition to this efficient kindness in furnishing me with these 
necessary supplies, I received from him a warm and gratifying 
sympathy in the suffering which his great experience led him 
to anticipate for us in our homeward journey, and a letter of 
recommendation and credit for any officers of the Hudson Bay 
Company into whose posts we might be driven by unexpected 
misfortune. 

Of course, the future supplies for my party were paid for, 
bills on the Government of the United Slates being readily 
taken ; but every hospitable attention was extended to me, and 
I accepted an invitation to take a room in the fort, " and to 
make myself at home while I stayed." 

I found many American emigrants at the fort; others had 
already crossed the river into their land of promise — the Wa- 
lahmette valley. Others were daily arriving ; and all of them 
have been furnished with shelter, so far as it could be afforded 
by the buildings connected with the establishment. Necessary 
clothing and provisions (the latter to be returned in kind from 
the produce of their labor) were also furnished. This friendly 
assistance was of very great value to the emigrants, whose 
families were otherwise exposed to much suflering in the 
winter rains, which had now commenced ; at the same time 
they were in want of all the common necessaries of life. 
Those who had taken a water conveyance at the Nez Perce 
fort continued to arrive safely, with no other accident than has 
been already mentioned. The party which had crossed over 
the Cascade mountains were reported to have lost a number of 
their animals : and those who had driven their stock down the 
Columbia had brought them safely in, and found for them a 
ready and very profitable market, and were already proposing 
to return to the States in the spring for another supply. 



264 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Nov. 

In t'le space of two days our prpparations had been com- 
pleted, and we were ready to set out on our return. It would 
have been very gratifying to have gone down to the Pacific, 
and, solely in the interest and love of geography, to have seen 
the ocean on the western as well as on the eastern side of 
the continent, so as to give a satisfactory completeness to the 
geographical picture which had been formed in our minds ; 
but the rainy season had now regularly set in, and the air was 
filled with fogs and rain, which left no beauty in any scenery, 
and obstructed observations. The object of my instructions 
had been entirely fulfilled in having connected our reconnois- 
sance with the surveys of Captain Wilkes ; and although it 
would have been agreeable and satisfactory to terminate here 
also our ruder astronon)ical observations, I was not, for such a 
reason, justified to make a delay in waiting for favorable 
weather. 

Near sunset of the 10th, the boats left the fort, and encamped 
after making only a few miles. Our flotilla consisted of a 
Mackinaw barge and three canoes — one of them that in which 
we had descended the river; and a party in all of twenty men. 
One of the emigrants, Mr. Burnet, of Missouri, who had left 
his family and property at the Dalles, availed himself of the 
opportunity afforded by the return of our boats to bring them 
down to Vancouver. This gentleman, as well as the Messrs. 
Applegate, and others of the emigrants whom I saw, possessed 
intelligence and character, with the moral and intellectual 
stamina, as well as the enterprise, which give solidity and 
respectability to the foundation of colonies. 

11th. — The morning was rainy and misty. We did not 
move with the practised celerity of my own camp ; and it was 
nearly nine o'clock when our motley crew had finished their 
breakfast and were ready to start. Once afloat, however, they 
workid steadily and well, and we advanced at a good rate up 
the river ; and in the afternoon a breeze sprung up, which 
enabled us to add a sail to the oars. At evening we encamped 
on a warm-looking beach, on the right bank, at the foot of the 
high river-hill, immediately at the lower end of Cape Horn. 
On the opposite shore is said to be a singular hole in the moun- 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 265 

tain, from which the Indians believe comes the wind producing 
these gales. It is called the Devil's hole ; and the Indians, 1 
was told, had been resolving to send down one of their slaves 
to explore the region below. At dark, the wind shifted into 
its stormy quarter, gradually increasing to a gale from the 
southwest ; and the sky becoming clear, I obtained a good 
observation of an emersion of the first satellite ; the result of 
which being an absolute observation, I have adopted for the 
longitude of the place. 

12th. — The wind during the night had increased to so much 
violence, that the broad river this morning was angry and 
white ; the waves breaking with considerable force against 
this rocky wall of the cape. Our old Iroquois pilot was un- 
willing to risk the boats around the point, and I was not dis- 
posed to hazard the stores of our voyage for the delay of a day. 
Further observations were obtained during the day, giving for 
the latitude of the place 45'^ 33^ 09''^ ; and the longitude ob- 
tained from the satellite is 122° 6' 15'\ 

13th. — We had a day of disagreeable and cold rain, and, 
late in the afternoon, began to approach the rapids of the cas- 
cades. There is here a high timbered island on the left shore, 
below which, in descending, I had remarked, in a bluff of the 
river, the extremities of trunks of trees, appearing to be im- 
bedded in the rock. Landing here this afternoon, I found, in 
the lower part of the escarpment, a stratum of coal and forest- 
trees, imbedded between strata of altered clay, containing the 
remains of vegetables, the leaves of which indicate that the 
plants were dicotyledonous. Among these, the stems of some 
of the ferns are not mineralized, but merely charred, retaining 
still their vegetable structure and substance ; and in this con- 
dition a portion also of the trees remain. The indurated ap- 
pearance and compactness of the strata, as well, perhaps, as 
the mineralized condition of the coal, are probably due to ig- 
neous action. Some portions of the coal precisely resemble 
in aspect the canal coal of England, and, with the accompany- 
ing fossils, have been referred to the tertiary formation. 

These strata appear to rest upon a mass of agglomerated 
rock, being but a few feet above the water of the river ; and 

23 



2G6 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Nov. 

over them is the escarpment of perhaps 80 feet, rismg gradu- 
ally in the rear towards the mountains. The wet and cold 
evening, and near approach of night, prevented me from ma- 
king any other than a slight examination. 

The current was now very swift, and we were obliged to 
cordelle the boat along the left siiore, where the bank was cov- 
ered with large masses of rocks. Night overtook us at the 
upper end of the island, a short distance below the cascades, 
and we halted on the open point. In the mean time, the lighter 
canoes, paddled altogether by Indians, had passed ahead, and 
were out of sight. With them was the lodge, wiiicli was the 
only shelter we had, with most of the bedding and provisions. 
We shouted, and fired guns ; but all to no purpose, as it was 
impossible for tliem to hear above the roar of the river ; and 
we remained all niglit without shelter, the rain pouring down 
all the time. The old voyageurs did not appear to mind it 
much, but covered themselves up as well as they could, and 
lay down on the sand-beach, where they remained quiet until 
morning. The rest of us spent a rather miserable night ; and, 
to add to our discomfort, the incessant rain extinguished our 
fires ; and we were glad when at last daylight appeared, and 
we again embarked. 

Crossing to the right bank, we cordelled the boat along the 
shore, there being no longer any use of the paddles, ami put 
into a little bay below the upper rapids. Here we found a 
lodge pitched, and about 20 Indians sitting around a blazing 
fire within, making a luxurious breakfast with salmon, bread, 
butter, sugar, coffee, and other provisions. In the forest, on 
the edge of the high bluff overlooking the river, is an Indian 
graveyard, consisting of a collection of tombs, in each of which 
were the scattered bones of many skeletons. The tombs were 
made of boards, which were ornamented with many figures of 
!nen and animals of the natural size — from their appearance, 
constituting th(" ariiiorial device by wiiich, among Indians, the 
chiefs are usually known. 

The massi s of rock displayed along the shores of the ravine 
in the neighborhood of the ca.scadis, are clearly volcanic pro- 
ducts. Between tliis cove, which I called Graveyard bay, and 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 267 

another spot of smooth water above, on the right, called Luders 
bay, sheltered by a jutting point of huge rocky masses at the 
foot of the cascades, the shore along the intervening rapids is 
lined with precipices of distinct strata of red and variously- 
colored lavas, in inclined positions. 

The masses of rock forming the point at Luders bay consist 
of a porous trap, or basalt — a volcanic product of a modern 
period. The rocks belong to agglomerated masses, which 
form the immediate ground of tlie cascades, and have been 
already mentioned as constituting a bed of cemented conglom- 
erate rocks, appearing at various places along the river. 
Here they are scattered along the shores, and through the 
bed of the river, wearing the character of convulsion, which 
forms the impressive and prominent feature of the river at this 
place. 

Wherever we came in contact with the rocks of these moun- 
tains, we found them volcanic, which is probably the charac- 
ter of the range ; and at this time, two of the great snowy 
cones, Mount Regnier and St. Helens, were in action. On 
the 23d of the preceding November,^ St. Helens had scattered 
its aslies, like a white full of snow, over the Dalles of the Co- 
lumbia, 50 miles distant. A specimen of these ashes was 
given to me by Mr. Brewer, one of the clergymen at the 
Dalles. 

The lofty range of the Cascade mountains forms a distinct 
boundary between the opposite climates of the regions along 
its western and eastern bases. On the west, they present a 
barrier to the clouds of fog and rain which roll up from the 
Pacific ocean and beat against their rugged sides, forming the 
rainy season of the winter in the country along tlie coast. 
Into the brighter skies of the region along their eastern base, 
this rainy winter never penetrates ; and at the Dalles of the 
Columbia the rainy season is unknown, the brief winter being 
limited to a period of about two months, during which the earth 
is covered with the slight snows of a climate remarkably mild 
for so high a latitude. The Cascade range has an average 
distance of about 130 miles from the sea-coast. It extends far 
both north and south of the Columbia, and is indicated to the 



268 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Nov. 

distant observer, both in course and position, by the lofty vol- 
canic peaks which rise out of it, and which are visible to an 
immense distance. 

During several days of constant rain, it kept our whole force 
laboriously employed in getting our barge and canoes to the 
upper end of the Cascades. The portage ground was occu- 
pied by emigrant families ; their thin and insutficient clothing, 
bareheaded and barefooted children, attesting, the length of 
their journey, and showing that they had, in many instances, 
set out without a due preparation of what was indispensable. 

A gentleman named Luders, a botanist from the city of 
Hamburg, arrived at the bay I have called by his name while 
we were occupied in bringing up the boats. I was delighted 
to meet at such a place a man of kindred pursuits ; but we 
had only the pleasure of a brief conversation, as his canoe, 
under the guidance of two Indians, was about to run the rapids; 
and I could not enjoy the satisfaction of regaling him with a 
breakfast, which, after his recent journey, would have been an 
extraordinary luxury. All of his few instruments and bag- 
gage were in the canoe, and he hurried around by land to meet 
it at the Graveyard bay ; but he was scarcely out of sight, 
when, by the carelessness of the Indians, the boat was drawn 
into the midst of the rapids, and glanced down the river, bot- 
tom up, with a loss of every thing it contained. In the natural 
concern I felt for his misfortune, I gave to the little cove the 
name of Luders bay. 

15th. — We continued to-day our work at the portage. 

About noon, the two barges of the express from Montreal 
arrived at the upper portage landing, which, for large boats, is 
on the right bank of the river. They were a fine-looking 
crew, and among them I remarked a fresh-looking woman 
and her daughter, emigrants from Canada. It was satisfactory 
to see the order and speed with which these e.xperienced water- 
men efiected the portage, and passed their boats over the cas- 
cades. They had arrived at noon, and in the evening they 
expected to reach Vancouver. These bateaux carry the ex- 
press of the Hudson Bay Company to the highest navigable 
point of the North Fork of the Columbia, whence it is car. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 269 

ried by an overland party to Lake Winipec, where it is 
divided ; part going to Montreal, and part to Hudson Bay. 
Thus a regular communication is kept up between three very 
remote points. 

The Canadian emigrants were much chagrined at the change 
of climate, and informed me that, only a few miles above, they 
had left a country of bright blue sky and a shining sun. The 
next morning the upper parts of the mountains which directly 
overlook the cascades, were white with the freshly fallen snow, 
while it continued to rain steadily below. 

Late in the afternoon we finished the portage, and, embarking 
again, moved a little distance up the right bank, in order to 
clear the smaller rapids of the cascades, and have a smooth 
river' for the next morning. Though we made but a few miles, 
the weather improved immediately ; and though the rainy 
country and the cloudy mountains were close behind, before 
us was the bright sky ; so distinctly is climate here morked by 
a mountain boundary. 

17th. — We had to-day an opportunity to complete the 
sketch of that portion of the river down which we had come 
by night. 

Many places occur along the river, where the stumps, or 
rather portions of the trunks of pine-trees, are standing along 
the shore, and in the water, where they may be seen at a con- 
siderable depth below the surface, in the beautifully clear water. 
These collections of dead trees are called on the Columbia the 
suhnerged forest, and are supposed to have been created by the 
effects of some convulsion which formed the cascades, and 
"which, by damming up the river, placed these trees under 
water and destroyed them. But I venture to presume that the 
cascades are older than the trees ; and as these submerged 
forests occur at five or six places along the river, I had an op- 
portunity to satisfy myself that they have been formed by 
immense land-slides from the mountains, which here closely 
shut in the river, and which brought down with them into the 
river the pines of the mountain. At one place, on the right 
bank, I remarked a place where a portion of one of these 
slides seemed to have planted itself, with all the evergreen 

23* 



270 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Nov. 

foliage, and the vegetation of the neighboring hill, directly 
amidst the falling and yellow leaves of the river trees. It oc- 
curred to me that this would have been a beautiful illustration 
to the eye of a botanist. 

Following the course of a slide, which was very plainly 
marked along the mountain, I found that in the interior parts 
the trees were in their usual erect position ; but at the extremity 
of the slide they were rocked about, and thrown into a confusion 
of inclinations. 

About 4 o'clock in the afternoqn we passed a sandy bar in 
the river, whence we had an unexpected view of Mount Hood, 
bearing directly south by compass. 

During the day we used oar and sail, and at night had 
again a delightful camping ground, and a dry place to sleep 
upon. 

18th. — The dav again was pleasant and bright. At 10 
o'clock we passed a rock island, on the right shore of the 
river, which the Indians use as a burial-ground ; and halting 
for a short time, about an hour afterwards, at the village of 
our Indian friends, early in the afternoon we arrived again at 
the Dalles. 

Carson had removed the camp up the river a little nearer 
to the hills, where the animals had better grass. We found 
every thing in good order, and arrived just in time to partake 
of an excellent roast of California beef My friend, Mr. 
Gilpin, had arrived in advance of the party. His object in 
visiting this country had been to obtain correct information 
of the Walahmette settlements ; and he had reached this 
point in his journey, highly pleased with the country ovei* 
which he had traveled, and with invigorated health. On the 
following day he continued his journey, in our returning boats, 
to Vancouver. 

The camp was now occupied in making the necessary pre- 
parations for our homeward journey, which, though homeward, 
contemplated a new route, and a great circuit to the south and 
southeast, and the exploration of the Great Basin between the 
Rocky mountains and the Sierra Nevada. Three principal 
objects were indicated, by report or by maps, as being on this 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 271 

route ; the cliaracter or existence of which I wished to ascer- 
tain, and which I assumed as landmarks, or leading points, on 
the projected line of return. The first of these points was the 
Tlamath lake, on the table-land between the head of Fall river, 
whicii comdl! to the Columbia, and the Sacramento, which goes 
to the Bay of San Francisco ; and from which lake a river of 
the same name makes its way westwardly direct to the ocean. 
This lake and river are often called Klamct, but I have chosen 
to write its name according to the Indian pronunciation. The 
position of this lake, on the line of inland communication be- 
tween Oregon and California ; its proximity to the demarca- 
tion boundary of latitude 42° ; its imputed double character 
of lake, or meadow, according to the season of the year ; and 
the hostile and warlike character attributed to the Indians 
about it — all made it a desirable object to visit and examine. 
From this lake our course was intended to be about southeast, 
to a reported lake called Mary's, at some days' journey in the 
Great Basin ; and thence, still on southeast, to the reputed 
Buenaventura river, which has had a place in so many maps, 
and countenanced the belief of the existence of a great river 
flowing from the Rocky mountains to the Bay of San Fran- 
cisco. From the Buenaventura the next point was intended 
to be in that section of the Rocky mountains which includes 
the heads of Arkansas river, and of the opposite waters of the 
Californian gulf; and thence down the Arkansas to Bent's fort, 
and home. This was our projected line of return — a great 
part of it absolutely new to geographical, botanical, and geolo- 
gical science — and the subject of reports in relation to lakes, 
rivers, deserts, and savages hardly above the condition of mere 
wild animals, which inflamed desire to know what this terra 
incognita really contained. 

It was a serious enterprise, at the commencement of winter, 
to undertake the traverse of such a region, and with a party 
consisting only of twenty-five persons, and they of many na- 
tions — American, French, German, Canadian, Indian, and 
colored — and most of them young, several being under twenty- 
one years of age. All knew that a strange country was to be 
explored, and dangers and hardships to be encountered ; but 



272 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Nov. 

no one blenched at the prospect. On the contrary, courage 
and conlidence animated the whole party. Cheert'ulness, readi- 
ness, subordination, prompt obedience, characterized all ; nor 
did any extremity of peril and privation, to which we were af- 
terwards exposed, ever belie, or derogate from, tl# tine spirit 
of this brave and generous commencement. The course of the 
narrative will show at what point, and for what reasons, we 
were prevented from the complete execution of this plan, after 
having made considerable progress upon it, and how we were 
forced by desert plains and mountain ranges, and deep snows, 
far to the south, and near to the Pacific ocean, and along tlie 
western base of the Sierra Nevada, where, indeed, a new and 
ample field of exploration opened itself before us. For the 
present, we must follow the narrative, which will first lead us 
south along the valley of Fall river, and the eastern base of 
the Cascade range, to the Tlamath lake, from which, or its 
margin, three rivers go in three directions — one west, to the 
ocean ; another north, to the Columbia ; the third south, to 
California. 

For the support of the party, I had provided at Vancouver a 
supply of provisions for not less than three months, consisting 
principally of Hour, peas, and tallow — the latter being used in 
cooking ; and, in addition to this, I had purchased at the mis- 
sion some California cattle, which were to be driven on the 
hoof. We had 104 mules and horses — part of the latter pro- 
cured from the Indians about the mission ; and for the susten- 
ance of which, our reliance was upon the grass which we 
should find, and the soft porous wood which was to be substi- 
tuted when there was none. 

Mr. Fit/patrick, with Mr. Talbot and the remainder of the 
party, arrived on the 21st ; and the camp was now closely en- 
gaged in the labor of preparation. Mr. Perkins succeeded in 
obtaining as a guide to the Tlamath lake two Indians — one of 
whom had been there, and bore the nwirks of several wounds 
he had received from some of the Indians in the neighborhood ; 
and the other went along for company. In order to enable us 
to ()bt;iin horsis, he dispatched messengers to the various In- 
dian villages in the neighborhood, informing them that we were 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 273 

desirous to purchase, and appointing a day for them to bring 
them in. 

We made, in the mean time, several excursions in the vi- 
cinity. Mr. Perkins walked with Mr. Preuss and myself to 
the heights, about nine miles distant, on the opposite side of the 
river, wlicnce, in fine weather, an extensive view may be had 
over the mountains, including seven great peaks of the Cas- 
cade range ; but clouds, on this occasion, destroyed the antici- 
pated pleasure, and we obtained bearings only to three that 
were visible — Mount Regnier, St. Helens, and Mount Hood. 
On the heights, about one mile soutli of the mission, a very 
fine view may be had of Mount Hood and St. Helens. In 
order to determine their position with as much accuracy as 
possible, the angular distances of the peaks were measured 
with the sextant, at different fixed points from which they could 
be seen. 

The Indians brought in their Ijorses at the appointed time, 
and we succeeded in obtaining a number in exchange for 
goods ; but they were relatively much higher here, where 
goods are plenty and at moderate prices, than we had found 
them in the more eastern part of our voyage. Several of the 
Indians inquired very anxiously to know if we had any dol- 
lars ; and the horses we procured were much fewer in num- 
ber than I had desired, and of thin, inferior quality ; the oldest 
and poorest being those that were sold to us. These horses, 
as ever in our journey you will have occasion to remark, are 
valuable for hardihood and great endurance. 

24th. — At this place one of the men was discharged ; and 
at the request of Mr. Perkins, a Chinook Indian, a lad of nine- 
teen, who was extremely desirous to " see the whites," and 
make some acquaintance with our institutions, was received 
into the party under my special charge, with the understand- 
ing that I would aorain return him to his friends. He had 
lived lor some time in the household of Mr. Perkins, and spoke 
a few words of the English language. 

25th. — We were all up early, in the excitement of turning 
towards home. The stars were brilliant, and the morning 
cold, the thermometer at daylight 26°. 



271 CAPT. fkemont's narrative. [Nov. 

Our preparations had been fully completed, and to-day we 
commenced our journey. The little wagon which had hitherto 
carried the instruments, I judged it necessary to abandon ; and 
it was accordingly presented to the mission. In all our long 
traveling, it had never been overturned or injured by any ac- 
cident of" the road ; and the only things broken were the glass 
lamps, and one of the front panels, which had been kicked out 
by an unruly Indian horse. The howitzer was the only 
wheeled carriage now remaining. We started about noon, 
when the weather had become disagreeably cold, with flurries 
of snow. Our friend Mr. Perkins, whose kindness had been 
active and efficient during our stay, accompanied us several 
miles on our road, when he bade us farewell, and consigned 
us to the care of our guides. Ascending to the uplands be- 
yond the southern fork of the Tinanens creek, we found the 
snow lying on the ground in frequent patches, although the 
pasture appeared good, and the new short grass was fresh, and 
green. We traveled over high, hilly land, and encamped on a 
little branch of Tinanens creek, where there were jrood jirass 
and timber. The southern bank was covered with snow, 
which was scattered over the bottom ; and the little creek, its 
borders lined with ice, had a chilly and wintry look. A num- 
ber of Indians had accompanied us so far on our road, and re- 
mained with us during the night. Two bad-looking fellows, 
who were detected in stealing, were tied and laid before the 
fire, and guard mounted over them during the night. The 
night was cold, and partially clear. 

2Gth. — The morning was cloudy and misty, and but a few- 
stars visible. During the night water froze in the tents, and 
at sunrise the thermometer was at 20^. Left camp at 10 
o'clock, the road leading along tributaries of the Tinanens, and 
being, so far, very good. We turned to the right at the fork 
of the trail, ascending by a steep ascent along a spur to the 
dividing grounds between this stream and 'he waters of Fall 
river. The creeks we had passed were timbered principally 
with oak and other deciduous trees. Snow lies everywhere 
here on the ground, and we had a slight fall during the morn- 
ing ; but towards noon the bright sky yielded to a bright sun. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 275 

This morning we had a grand view of St. Helens and Regnier : 
the latter appeared of a conical fornn, and very lofty, leading 
the eye far up into the sky. The line of the timbered country 
is very distinctly marked here, the bare hills making with it a 
remarkable contrast. The summit of the ridge commanded a 
fine view of the Taih prairie, and the stream running through 
it, which is a tributary to the Fall river, the chasm of which 
is visible to the right. A steep descent of a mountain hill 
brought us down into the valley, and we encamped on the 
stream after dark, guided by the light of fires, which some 
naked Indians, belonging to a village on the opposite side, were 
kindlintj for us on the bank. This is a large branch of the Fall 
river. There was a broad band of thick ice some fifteen feet 
wide on either bank, and the river current is swift and bold. 
The night was cold and clear, and we made our astronomical 
observation this evening with the thermometer at 20°. 

In anticipation of coming hardship, and to spare our horses, 
there was much walking done to-day ; and Mr. Fitzpatrick and 
myself made the day's journey on foot. Somewhere near the 
mouth of this stream are the falls from which the river takes 
its name. 

27th. — A fine view of Mount Hood this morning; a rose- 
colored mass of snow, bearing S. 85° W. by compass. The 
sky is clear, and the air cold ; the thermometer 2-5° below 
zero, the trees and bushes glittering white, and the rapid stream 
filled with floating ice. 

Stilet^i and the White Crane, two Indian chiefs who had ac- 
companied us thus far, took their leave, and we resumed our 
journey at 10 o'clock. We ascended by a steep hill from the 
river bottom, which is sandy, to a volcanic plain, around which 
lofty hills sweep in a regular form. It is cut up by gullies of 
basaltic rock, escarpments of which appear everywhere in the 
hills. This plain is called the Taih prairie, and is sprinkled 
with some scattered pines. The country is now far more inter- 
esting to a traveler than the route along the Snake and Colum- 
bia rivers. To our right we had always the mountains, from 
the midst of whose dark pine forests the isolated snowy peaks 
were looking out like giants. They served us for grand bea- 



276 CAPT. fkemont's >'arbative. [Nov. 

cons to show the rate at which we advanced in our journey. 
Mount Hood was already becoming an old acquaintance, and, 
when we ascended the prairie, we obtained a bearing to Mount 
JefTerson, S. 23° W. The Indian superstition has peopled 
these lofty peaks with evil spirits, and they have never yet 
known the tread of a human foot. Sternly drawn against the 
sky, they look so high and steep, .so snowy and rocky, that it 
appears almost impo.ssible to climb them ; but still a trial would 
have its attractions for the adventurous traveler. A small 
trail takes off through the prairie, towards a low point in the 
range, and perhaps there is here a pass into the Wahlamette 
valley. Crossing the plain, we descended by a rocky hill into 
the bed of a tributary of Fall river, and made an early cncamp- 
mont. The water was in holes, and frozen over ; and we were 
obliged to cut through the ice for the animals to drink. An 
ox, which was rather troublesome to drive, was killed here for 
food. 

The evening was fine, the sky being very clear, and I ob- 
tained an immersion of the third satellite, with a good observa- 
tion of an emersion of the first ; the latter of which gives for 
the longitude, 121° 02' 43'^; the latitude, by observation, be- 
ing 45° 06' 45''''. The night was cold — the thermometer dur- 
ing the observations standing at 9^. 

28th. — The sky was clear in the morning, but suddenly 
clouded over, and at sunrise it began to snow, with the thermom- 
eter at 18°. 

We traversed a broken high country, partly timbered with 
pine, and about noon crossed a mountainous ridge, in which, 
from the rock occasionally displavoci, the formation consists of 
compact lava. Frequent tracks of elk were visible in the snow. 
On our right, in the afternoon, a high plain, partially covered 
with pine, extended about ten miles, to the foot of the Cascade 
mountains. 

At evening we encamped in a basin narrowly surrounded 
by rocky hills, after a day's journey of twenty-one miles. 
The surrounding rocks are either volcanic products, or highly 
altered by volcanic action, consisting of quartz and reddish- 
colored silicious masses. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 277 

29th. — We emerged from the basin, by a narrow pass, upon 
a considerable branch of Fall river, running to the eastward 
through a narrow valley. The trail, descending this stream, 
brought us to a locality of hot springs, which were on either 
bank. Those on the left, which were formed into deep hand- 
some basins, would have been delightful baths, if the outer air 
had not been so keen, the thermometer in these being at 89°. 
There were others on the opposite side, at the foot of an escarp, 
ment, in which the temperature of the water was 134°. These 
waters deposited around the spring a brecciated mass of quartz 
and feldspar, much of it of a reddish color. 

We crossed the stream here, and ascended again to a high 
plain, from an elevated point of which we obtained a view of 
six of the great peaks — Mount Jefferson, followed to the south- 
ward by two others of the same class ; and succeeding, at a 
still greater distance to the southward, were three other lower 
peaks, clustering together in a branch ridge. These, like the 
great peaks, were snowy masses, secondary only to them ; and, 
from the best examination our time permitted, we are inclined 
to believe that the range to which they belong is a branch from 
the great chain which here bears to the westward. The trail, 
during the remainder of the day, followed near to the large 
stream on the left, which was continuously walled in between 
high rocky banks. We halted for the night on a little by- 
stream. 

30th. — Our journey to-day was short. Passing over a high 
plain, on which were scattered cedars, with frequent beds of 
volcanic rock in fragments interspersed among the grassy 
grounds, we arrived suddenly on the verge of the steep and 
rocky descent to the valley of the stream we had been follow- 
ing, and which here ran directly across our path, emerging 
from the mountains on the right. You will remark that the 
country is abundantly watered with large streams, which pour 
down from the neighboring range. 

These streams are characterized by the narrow and chasm- 
like valleys in which they run, generally sunk a thousand feet 
below the plain. At the verge of this plain, they frequently 
commence in vertical precipices of basaltic rock, and which 

24 



278 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Xov. 

leave only casual places at which they can be entered by 
horses. The road across the country, which would otherwise 
be very good, is rendered impracticable for wagons by these 
streams. There is another trail among the mountains, usually 
followed in the summer, which the snows now compelled us to 
avoid ; and I have reason to believe that this, passing nearer 
the heads of these streams, would afford a much better road. 

At such places, the gun-carriage was unlimbered, and sepa- 
rately descended by hand. Continuing a few miles up the leA 
bank of the river, we encamped early in an open bottom among 
the pines, a short distance below a lodge of Indians. Here, 
along the river the bluHs present escarpments seven or eight 
hundred feet in height, containing strata of a very fine porce- 
lain clay, overlaid, at the height of about five hundred feet, by 
a massive stratum of compact basalt one hundred feet in thick- 
ness, which again is succeeded above by otiier strata of vol- 
canic rocks. The clay strata are variously colored, some of 
them very nearly as white as chalk, and very fine-grained. 
Specimens brought from these have been subjected to micro- 
scopical examination by Professor Bailey, of West Point, and 
are considered by him to constitute one of the most remarkable 
deposites of fluviatile infusoria on record. While they abound 
in genera and species which are common in fresh water, but 
which rarely thrive where the water is even brackish, not one 
decidedly marine form is to be found among them ; and their 
fresh-water origin is therefore beyond a doubt. It is equally 
certain that they lived and died at the situation where they 
were found, as they could scarcely have been transported by 
ruiming waters without an admixture of sandy particles; from 
which, however, they are remarkably free. Fossil infusoria 
of a fresh-water origin had been previously detected by Mr. 
Bailey, in specimens brougi)t by Mr. James D. Dana from the 
tertiary formation of Oregon. Most of the species in those 
specimens dilFered so much from tbose now living and known, 
that he was led to infer that they might belong to extinct 
species, and considered them also as affording i)roof of an 
alteration, in \.hr formation from which they were obtained, of 
fresh and salt-wuiir deposites, which, common enough ia 



1843.] CAi'T. fkemont's narrative. 279 

Europe, had not hitherto been noticed in the United States. 
Coming evidently from a locality entirely different, our speci- 
mens show very kw species in common with those brought by 
Mr. Dana, but bear a much closer resemblance to those inhab- 
iting the northeastern states. It is possible that they are from 
a more recent deposite ; but the presence of a few remarkable 
forms which are common to the two localities renders it more 
probable that there is no great difference in their age. 

I obtained here a good observation of an emersion of the 
second satellite ; but clouds, which rapidly overspread the sky, 
prevented the usual number of observations. Those which we 
succeeded in obtaining, are, however, good ; and give for the 
latitude of the place 44° 35'' 23''^, and for the longitude from 
the satellite 121° 10' 2b''. 



DECEMBER. 



1st. — A short distance above our encampment, we crossed 
the river, which was thickly lined along its banks with ice. 
In common with all these mountain-streams the water was 
very clear and the current swift. It was not everywhere ford- 
able, and the water was three or four feet deep at our crossing, 
and perhaps a hundred feet wide. As was frequently the case 
at such places, one of the mules got his pack, consisting of 
sugar, thoroughly wet, and turned into molasses. One of the 
guides informed me that this was a "salmon-water," and 
pointed out several ingeniously-contrived places to catch the 
fish ; among the pines in the bottom I saw an immense one, 
about twelve feet in diameter. A steep ascent from the oppo- 
site bank delayed us again ; and as, by the information of our 
guides, grass would soon become very scarce, we enconijied 
on the height of land, in a marshy place among the pines, 
where there was an abundance of grass. We found here a 
single Nez Perce family, who had a very handsome horse in 
their drove, which we endeavored to obtain in exchange for a 
good cow ; but the man " had two hearts," or, rather, he had 



280 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Dec. 

one and his wife had another : she wanted the cow, but lie 
loved the horse too much to part with it. These people attach 
great value to cattle, with which they are endeavoring to sup- 
ply thi;mselves. 

2d. — In the first rays of the sun, the mountain peaks this 
morning presented a beautiful appearance, the snow being en- 
tirely covered with a hue of rosy gold. We traveled to-day 
over a very stony, elevated plain, about which were scattered 
cedar and pine, and encamped on another branch of Fall river. 
We were gradually ascending to a more elevated region, 
which would have been indicated by the rapidly increasing 
quantities of snow and ice, had we not known it by other 
means. A mule, which was packed with our cooking-utensils, 
wandered off among the pines unperceived, and several men 
were sent back to .search for it. 

3d. — Leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick with the party, I went ahead 
with the howitzer and a few men, in order to gain time, as our 
progress with the gun was necessarily slower. The country 
continued the same — very stony, with cedar and pine ; and we 
rode on until dark, when we encamped on a hill-side covered 
with snow, which we used to-night for water, as we were una- 
ble to reach any stream. 

4th. — Our animals had taken the back track, although a 
great number were hobbled ; and we were consequently de- 
layed until noon. Shortly after we had left this encampment, 
the mountain trail from the Dalles joined that on which we 
were traveling. After passing for several miles over an arte- 
misia plain, the trail entered a beautiful pine forest, through 
which we traveled for several hours ; an<l al>out 4 o'clock de- 
sceiKJod into the valley of anotliQr large branch, on the bottom 
of which were spaces of open pines, with occa.sional meadows 
of good grass, in one of which we encamped. The stream is 
very swift and deep, and about 40 feet wide, and nearly half 
frozen over. Among the timber here, are larches 140 feet 
high, and over three feet in diameter. We had to-night the 
rare sight of a lunar rainbow. 

5th. — To-day the country was all pine forest, and beautiful 
weather made our journey delightful. It was too warm at 



1843.] CAPT- Fremont's narrative. 281 

noon for winter clothes; aiul the snow, which lay everywhere 
in patches through the forest, was melting rapidly. After a 
few hours' ride, we came upon a fine stream in the midst of 
the forest, which proved to be the principal branch of the Fall 
river. It was occasionally 200 feet wide — sometimes narrow- 
ed to 50 feet — the waters very clear, and frequently deep. 
We ascended along the river, which sometimes presented sheets 
of foaming cascades — its banks occasionally blackened with 
masses of scoriated rock — and found a good encampment on 
the verge of open bottom, which had been an old camping- 
ground of the Cayuse Indians. A great number of deer-horns 
were lying about, indicating game in the neighborhood. The 
timber was uniformly large, some of the pines measuring 22 
feet in circumference at the ground, and 12 to 13 feet at six 
feet above. 

In all our journeying, we had never traveled through a coun- 
try where the rivers were so abounding in falls ; and the name 
of this stream is singularly characteristic. At every place 
where we come in the neighborhood of the river, is heard the 
roaring of falls. The rock along the banks of the stream, and 
the ledge over which it falls, is a scoriated basalt, with a bright 
metallic fracture. The stream goes over in one clear pitch, 
succeeded by a foaming cataract of several hundred yards. 
In a little bottom above the falls, a small stream discharges into 
an entonnoir, and disappears below. 

We made an early encamjiment, and in the course of the 
evening Mr. Fitzpatrick joined us here with the lost mule. 
Our lodge-poles were nearly worn out, and we found here a 
handsome set, leaning against one of the trees, very white, 
and cleanly scraped. Had the owners been here, we would 
have purchased them ; but as they were not, we merely left 
the old ones in their place, with a small quantity of tobacco. 

6th. — The morning was frosty and clear. We continued up 
the stream on undulating forest ground, over which there was 
scattered much falling timber. We met here a village of Nez 
Perce Indians, who appeared to be coming down from the 
mountains, and had with them fine bands of horses. With them 
were a (ew Snake Indians of the root-digging species. From 

24* 



282 CAPT. fkkmont's narrative. [Dec. 

the forest we emerged into an open valley ten or twelve miles 
wide, through which the stream was flowing tranquilly, up- 
wards of two hundred feet broad, with occasional islands, and 
bordered with fine broad bottoms. Crossing the river, which 
here issues from a great mountain ridge on the right, we con- 
tinued up the southern and smaller branch over a level coun- 
try, consisting of fine meadow-land, alternating with pine for- 
ests, and encamped on it early in the evening. A warm sun- 
shine made the day pleasant. 

7th. — To-day we had good traveling ground, the trail lead- 
ing sometimes over rather sandy soils in the pine forest, and 
sometimes over meadow-land along the stream. The great 
beauty of the country in summer constantly suggested itself 
to our imaginations ; and even now we found it beautiful, as 
we rode along these meadows, from half a mile to two miles 
wide. The rich soil and excellent water, surrounded by no- 
ble forests, make a picture that would delight the eye of a 
farmer. 

I observed to-night an occultation of a Gcminontm ; which, 
althougli at the bright limb of the moon, appears to give a very 
good result, that has been adopted for the longitude. The oc- 
cultation, observations of satellites, and our position deduced 
from daily surveys with the compass, agree remarkably well 
together, and mutually support and strengthen each other. 
The latitude of the camp is 48^ 30^ SG'' ; and longitude, de- 
duced from the occultation, 121° 33' 5C. 

8th. — To-day we crossed the last branch of the Fall river, 
issuing, like all the others we had crossed, in a southwesterly 
direction from the mountains. Our direction was a little east 
of south, tiie trail leading constantly through pine forests. The 
soil was generally bare, consi.sting, in greater part, of a yeU 
lowish-M'hite pumice-stone, producing varieties of magnificent 
pines, but not a blade of grass ; and to-night our horses were 
obliged to do without food, and use snow for water. These 
pines are remarkable for the red color of the bolls ; and among 
them occurs a s[)ecies of which the Indians had informed me 
when leaving the Dalles. Tiie unusual size of the cone (lU or 
18 inclies long) had attracted their attention ; and they pointed 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 283 

it out to me among the curiosities of the country. They are 
more remarkable for their large diameter than their height, 
which usually averages only about 120 feet. The leaflets are 
short — only two or three inches long, and five in a sheath ; the 
bark of a red color. 

9th. — The trail leads always through splendid pine forests. 
Crossing dividing grounds by a very fine road, we descended 
very gently towards the south. The weather was pleasant, 
and we halted late. The soil was very much like tliat of yes- 
terday ; and on the surface of a hill near our encampment, 
were displayed beds of pumice-stone ; but the soil produced 
no grass, and again the animals fared badly. 

10th. — The country began to improve; and about eleven 
o'clock we reached a spring of cold water on the edge of a sa- 
vannah, or grassy meadow, which our guides informed us was 
an arm of the Tlamath lake ; and a few miles further we en- 
tered upon an extensive meadow, or lake of grass, surrounded 
by timbered mountains. This was the Tlamath lake. It was 
a picturesque and beautiful spot, and I'endered more attractive 
to us by the abundant and excellent grass, which our animals, 
after traveling through pine forests, so much needed ; but the 
broad sheet of water which constitutes a lake was not to be seen. 
Overlooking it, immediately west, were several snowy knobs, 
belonging to what we have considered a branch of the Cascade 
range. A low point, covered with pines, made out into the 
lake, which afforded us a good place for an encampment, and 
for tlie security of our Jiorses, which were guarded in view on 
the open meadow. The character of courage and hostility at- 
tributed to the Indians in this quarter induced more than usual 
precaution ; and, seeing smokes rising from the middle of the 
lake (or savannah) and along the opposite shores, I directed 
the howitzer to be fired. It was the first time our guides had 
seen it discharged ; and the bursting of the shell at a distance, 
which was something like the second fire of the gun, amazed 
and bewildered them with delight. It inspired them with tri- 
umphant feelings ; but on the camps at a distance the efiect 
was different, for the smokes in the lake and on the shores im- 
mediately disappeared. 



284 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Dec. 

The point on which wc were encamped forms, with the op- 
posite eastern shore, a narrow nepk, connecting the IxnJy of 
the lake with a deep cove or bay which receives the principal 
affluent stream, and over the greater part of which the water 
(or rather ice) was at this time dispersed in shallow pools. 
Among the grass, and scattered over the prairie lake, appeared 
to be similar marshes. It is simply a shallow basin, which, for 
a short period at the time of melting snows, is covered with 
water from the neighboring mountains ; but this probably soon 
runs otr, and leaves for the remainder of the year a green sa- 
vannah, through the midst of which the river Tlamath, which 
flows to the ocean, winds its way to the outlet on the south- 
western side. 

11th. — No Indians made their appearance, and I determined 
to pay them a visit. Accordingly the people were gathered 
together, and we rode out towards the village in the middle 
of the lake which one of our guides had previously visited. 
It could not be directly approached, as a large part of the lake 
appeared a marsh ; arid there were sheets of ice among the 
grass on which our horses could not keep their footing. We 
therefore followed the guide for a considerable distance along 
the forest ; and then turned ofl" towards the village, which we 
soon began to see was a few large huts, on the tops of which 
were collected the Indians. When we had arrived within half 
a mile of the village, two persons were seen advancing to meet 
us ; and, to please the fancy of our guides, we ranged our- 
selves into a long line, riding abreast, while they galloped 
ahead to meet the strangers. 

We were surprised, on riding up, to find one of them a wo- 
man, having never before known a squaw to take any part in 
the business of war. They were the village chief and his wife, 
who, in excitement and alarm at the unusual event and appear- 
ance, had come out to meet their fate together. The chief 
was a very prepossessing Indian, with handsome features, i.nd 
a singularly soft and agreeable voice — so remarkable as to 
attract general notice. 

The liuts were grouped together on the bank of the river, 
which, from being spread out in a shallow marsh at the upper 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 285 

end of the lake, was collected here into a single stream. They 
were large round huts, perhaps 20 feet in diameter, with 
rounded tops, on which was the door by which they descend- 
ed into the interior. Within, they were supported by posts 
and beams. 

Almost like plants, these people seem to have adapted them- 
selves to the soil, and to be growing on what the immediate 
locality afforded. Their only subsistence at the time appear- 
ed to be a small fish, great quantities of which, that had been 
smoked and dried, were suspended on strings about the lodge. 
Heaps of straw were lying around ; and their residence in the 
midst of grass and rushes had taught them a peculiar skill in 
converting this material to useful purposes. Their shoes were 
made of straw or grass, which seemed well adapted for a 
snowy country ; and the women wore on their heads a closely- 
woven basket, which made a very good cap. Among other 
things, were party-colored mats about four feet square, which 
we purchased to lay on the snow under our blankets, and to 
use for table-cloths. 

Numbers of singular-looking dogs, resembling wolves, were 
sitting on the tops of the huts ; and of these we purchased a 
young one, which, after its birthplace, was named Tlamath. 
The language spoken by these Indians is different from that 
of the Shoshonee and Columbia River tribes ; and otherwise 
than by signs they cannot understand each other. They made 
us comprehend that they were at war with the people who 
lived to the southward and to the eastward ; but I could obtain 
from them no certain information. The river on which they 
live enters the Cascade mountains on the western side of the 
lake, and breaks through them by a passage impracticable for 
travelers ; but over the mountains, to the northward, are passes 
which present no other obstacle than in the almost impenetra- 
ble forests. Unlike any Indians we had previously seen, these 
wore shells in their noses. We returned to our camp, after 
remaining here an hour or two, accompanied by a number of 
Indians. 

In order to recruit a little the strength of our animals, and 
obtain some acquaintance with the locality, we remained here 



286 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Dec. 

for the remainder of the day. By observation, the latitude of 
the camp was 42^ 56' bV, and the diameter of the lake, or 
meadow, as has been intimated, about 20 miles. It is a pic- 
turesque and beautiful spot, and, under the hand of cultivation, 
might become a little paradise. Game is found in the forest, 
timbered and snowy mountains skirt it, and fertility character- 
izes it. Situated near the heads of three rivers, and on the line 
of inland communication with California, and near to Indians 
noted for treachery, it will naturally, in the progress of the 
settlement of Oregon, become a point for military occupation 
and settlement. 

From Tlamath lake, the further continuation of our voyage 
assumed a character of discovery and exploration, which, from 
the Indians here, we could obtain no information to direct, and 
where the imaginary maps of the country, instead of assisting, 
exposed us to suffering and defeat. In our journey across the 
desert, Mary's lake, and the famous Buenaventura river, were 
two points on which I relied to recruit the animals and repose 
the party. Forming, agreeobly to the best maps in my pos- 
session, a connected water-line from the Rocky mountains to 
the Pacific ocean, I felt no other anxiety than to pass safely 
across the intervening desert to the banks of the Buenaventura, 
where, in the softer climate of a more southern latitude, our 
horses might find grass to sustain them, and ourselves be shel- 
tered from the rigors of winter, and from the inhospitable des- 
ert. The guides who had conducted us thus far on our jour- 
ney were about to return ; and I endeavored in vain to obtain 
others to lead us, even for a few days, in the direction (east) 
which we wished to go. The chief to whom I applied alleged 
the want of horses, and the snow on the mountains across 
which our course would carry us, and the sickness of his fami- 
ly, as reasons for refusing to go with us. 

12th. — This morning the camp was thronged with Tlamath 
Indians from the southeastern shore of the lake ; but, knowing 
the treacherous disposition which is a remarkable characteristic 
of the Indians south of the Columbia, the camp was kept con- ' 
stantly on its guard. I was not unmindful of the disasters 
which Smith and other travelers had met wiih in this country, 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 287 

and therefore was equally vigilant in guarding against treache- 
ry and violence. 

According to the best information I had been able to obtain 
from the Indians, in a few days' traveling we should reach 
another large water, probably a lake, which they indicated ex- 
actly in the course we were about to pursue. We struck our 
tents at 10 o'clock, and crossed the lake in a nearly east di- 
rection, where it has the least extension — the breadth of the 
arm being here only about a mile and a half. There were 
ponds of ice, with but little grass, for the greater part of the 
way, and it was difficult to get the pack-animals across, which 
fell frequently, and could not get up with their loads, unassist- 
ed. The morning was very unpleasant, snow falling at inter- 
vals in large flakes, and the sky dark. In about two hours we 
succeeded in getting the animals over ; and, after traveling 
another hour along the eastern shore of the lake, we turned up 
into a cove where there was a sheltered place among the tim- 
ber, with good grass, and encamped. The Indians, who had 
accompanied us so far, returned to their village on the south- 
eastern shore. Among the pines here, I noticed some five or 
six feet in diameter. 

13th. — The night has been cold ; the peaks around the lake 
gleam out brightly in the morning sun, and the thermometer is 
at zero. We continued up the hollow formed by a small afflu- 
ent to the lake, and immediately entered an open pine for- 
est on the mountain. The way here was sometimes obstructed 
by fallen trees, and the snow was four to twelve inches deep. 
The mules at the gun pulled heavily, and walking was a little 
laborious. In the midst of the wood, we heard the sound of 
galloping horses, and were agreeably surprised by the unex- 
pected arrival of our Tlamath chief with several Indians. He 
seemed to have found his conduct inhospitable in letting the 
strangers depart without a guide through the snow, and had 
come, with a few others, to pilot us a day or two on the way. 
After traveling in an easterly direction through the forest for 
about four hours, we reached a considerable stream, with a 
border of good grass ; and here, by the advice of our guides, 
we encamped. It is about thirty feet wide, and two to four 



288 CAPT. Fremont's nabrative. [Dec. 

feet deep, the water clear, with some current ; and, according 
to the information of our Indians, is the principal aflluent to the 
lake, and the head-water of the Tlamath river. 

A very clear sky enabled me to obtain here to-ni<fht good 
observations, including an emersion of the first satellite of 
Jupiter, which gave for the long. 121° 20' 42", and for the 
lat. 42-' 51'' 26' . This emersion coincides remarkably well 
with the result obtained from an occultation at the encampment 
of December 7th to 8th, 1843 ; from which place, the line of 
our survey gives an easting of 13 miles. The day's journey 
was 12 miles. 

14th. — Our road was over a broad mountain, and we rode 
seven hours in a thick snow-storm, always through pine forests, 
when we came down upon the head-waters of another stream, 
on which there was grass. The snow lay deep on the ground, 
and only the high swamp-grass appeared above. The Indians 
were thinly clad, and I had remarked during the day that they 
suffered from cold. This evening they told me that the snow 
was getting too deep on the mountain, and I could not induce 
them to go any ftirther. The stream we had struck issued 
from the mountain in an easterly direction, turning to the 
southward a short distance below ; and, drawing its course 
upon the ground, they made us comprehend that it pursued its 
way for a long distance in that direction, uniting with many 
other streams, and gradually becoming a great river. With- 
out the subsequent information, which confirmed the opinion, 
we became immediately satisfied that this water formed the 
principal stream of the Sacramento river ; and, consequently, 
that tliis main aflluent of the bay of San Francisco had its 
source within the limits of the United State<, and opposite a 
tributary to the Columbia, and near the head of the Tlamath 
river, which got--^ ^<^ ilio ocean north of 42°, and within the 
United States, 

15th. — A presrni, consisting of useful goods, allordcil much 
satisfaction to our guides ; and, showing them the national 
flag, I explainrd that it was a symbol of our nation ; and they 
engaged always to receive it in a friendly manner. The chief 
pointed out a course, by following which we would arrive at 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's >"arrative. 289 

the big water, where no more snow was to be found. Travel- 
ing in a direction N. 60° E. by compass, which the Indians 
informed me would avoid a bad mountain to the right, we 
crossed the Sacramento where it turned to the southward, and 
entered a grassy level plain — a smaller Grand Rond ; from 
the lower end of which the river issued into an inviting country 
of low rolling hills. Crossing a hard-frozen swamp on the 
farther side of the Rond, we entered again the pine forest, in 
which very deep snow made our traveling slow and laborious. 
We were slowly but gradually ascending a mountain ; and, 
after a hard journey of seven hours, we came to some naked 
places among the timber, where a few tufts of grass showed 
above the snow, on the side of a hollow ; and here we encamped. 
Our cow, which every day got poorer, was killed here, but the 
meat was rather tough. 

16th. — We traveled this morning through snow about three 
feet deep, which, being crusted, very much cut the feet of our 
animals. The mountain still gradually rose ; we crossed 
several spring heads covered with quaking asp; otherwise it 
was all pine forest. The air was dark with falling snow, 
which everywhere weighed down the trees. The depths of the 
forest were profoundly still ; and below, we scarcely felt a breath 
of the wind which whirled the snow through their branches. 
I found that it required some exertion of constancy to adhere 
steadily to one course through the woods, when we were un- 
certain how far the forest extended, or what lay beyond ; and, 
on account of our animals, it would be bad to spend another 
night on the mountain. Towards noon the forest looked clear 
ahead, appearing suddenly to terminate ; and beyond a certain 
point we could see no trees. Riding rapidly ahead to this 
spot, we found ourselves on the verge of a vertical and rocky 
wall of the mountain. At our feet — more than a thousand 
feet below — we looked into a iirecn prairie country, in which 
a beautiful lake, some twenty miles in length, was spread along 
the foot of the mountains, its shores bordered with green grass. 
Just then the sun broke out among the clouds, and illuminated 
the country below, while around us the storm raged fiercely. 
Not a particle of ice was to be seen on the lake, or snow on 

25 



290 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Dec. 

its borders, and all was like summer or spring. The glow of 
the sun in the valley below brightened up our hearts with sud- 
den pleasure ; and we made the woods ring with joyful shouts 
to those behind ; and gradually, as each came up, he stopped 
to enjoy the unexpected scene. Shivering on snow three feet 
deep, and stiffening in a cold north wind, we exclaimed at once 
,that the names of Summer Lake and Winter Ridge siiould be 
applied to these two proximate places of such sudden and vio- 
lent contrast. 

We were now immediately on the verge of the forest land, 
in which we had been traveling so many days ; and, looking 
forward to the east, scarce a tree was to be seen. Viewed 
from our elevation, the face of the country exhibited only 
rocks and grass, and presented a region in which the artcniisia 
became the principal wood, furnishing to its scattered inhabi- 
tants fuel for their fires, building material for their huts, and 
shelter for the small game which ministers to their hunger 
and nakedness. Broadly marked by the boundary at the 
mountain wall, and immediately below us, were the first 
waters of that Great Interior Basin whiclj has the Wahsatch 
and Bear River mountains for its eastern, and the Sierra 
Nevada for its western rim ; and the edge of which we had 
entered upwards of throe months before, at the Great Salt Lake. 

When we had sufiiciontly admired the scene below, we be- 
gan to think about descending, which here was impossible, and 
we turned towards the north, traveling always along the rocky 
wall. We continued on for four or five miles, making inef- 
fectual attempts at several places ; and at length succeeded in 
getting down at one which was extremely difficult of descent. 
Niglit iiad closed in before the foremost reached the bottom, 
and it was dark before we all found ourselves together in the 
valley. There were three or four half-dead dry cedar-trees 
on the shore, and those who first arrived kindled bright fires to 
light on the others. One of the mules rolled over and over 
two or three hundred feet into a ravine, but recovered himself 
without any other injury than to his pack ; and the howitzer 
was left midway the mountain until morning. By observation, 
the latitude of this encamj)mcnt is 42° 57' 22''. It delayed 



18-13.] CAPT. frejiont's nakrative. 291 

us until near noon the next day to recover ourselves and put 
every thing in order ; and we made only a short camp along 
the western shore of the lake, which, in the summer tempera- 
ture we enjoyed to-day, justified the name we had given it. 
Our course would have taken us to the other shore, and over 
the highlands beyond ; but I distrusted the appearance of the 
country, and decided to follow a plainly-beaten Indian trail 
leading along this side of the lake. We were now in a country 
where the scarcitv of water and of crass makes traveling dan- 
gerous, and great caution was necessary. 

18th. — We continued on the trail along the narrow strip of 
land between the lake and the high rocky wall, from which we 
had looked down two days before. Almost every half mile we 
crossed a little spring, or stream of pure cold water, and the 
grass was certainly as fresh and green as in the early spring. 
From the white efflorescence along the shore of the lake, we 
were enabled to judge that the water was impure, like that of 
lakes we subsequently found, but the mud prevented us from 
approaching it. We encamped near the eastern point of the 
lake, where there appeared between the hills a broad and low 
connecting hollow with the country beyond. From a rocky 
hill in the rear, I could see, marked out by a line of yellow 
dried grass, the bed of a stream, which probably connected the 
lake with other waters in the spring. 

The observed latitude of this encampment is 42° 42' 37^'. 

19th. — After two hours' ride in an easterly direction, through 
a low country, the high ridge with pine forest still to our right, 
and a rocky and bald but lower one on the left, we reached a 
considerable fresh-water stream, which issues from the piny 
mountains. So far as we had been able to judge, between this 
stream and the lake we had crossed dividing grounds, and there 
did not appear to be any connection, as might be inferred from 
the impure condition of the lake water. 

The rapid stream of pure water, roaring along between 
banks overhung with aspens and willows, was a refreshing and 
unexpected sight ; and we followed down the course of the 
stream, which brought us soon into a marsh, or dry lake, 
formed by the expanding waters of the stream. It was cover- 



292 CAPT. ruEMONr's nakuative. [Dec. 

ed with high reeds and rushes, and large patches of ground 
had been turned up by the squaws in digging for roots, as if a 
fanner had been preparing the land for grain. I could not 
succeed in finding the plant for which they had been digging. 
There were frequent trails, and fresh tracks of Indians ; and, 
from the abundant signs visible, the black-tailed hare appears 
to be numerous here. It was evident that, in other seasons, 
this place was a sheet of water. Crossing this marsh towards 
the eastern hills, and passing over a bordering plain of heavy 
sands, covered with artemisia, we encamped before sundown 
on the creek, which here was very small, having lost its water 
in the marshy grounds. We found here tolerably good grass. 
The wind to-night was high, and we had no longer our huge 
pine fires, but were driven to our old resource of small dried 
willows and artemisia. About 12 miles ahead, the valley ap- 
pears to be closed in by a high, dark-looking ridge. 

20th. — Traveling for a few hours down the stream this 
morning, we turned the point of a hill on our left, and came 
suddenly in sight of another and much larger lake, which, 
along its eastern shore, was closely bordered by the high black 
ridge which walled it in. by a precipitous face on this side. 
Throughout this region the face of the country is characterized 
by tiiese precipices of black volcanic rock, generally enclosing 
the valleys of streams, and frequently terminating the hills. 
Often, in the course of our journey, we would be tempted to 
continue our road up the gentle ascent of a sloj)ing hill, which, 
at tlio summit, would terminate abruptly in a black precipice. 
Spread out over a length of 20 miles, the lake, when we first 
came in view, presented a handsome sheet of water, and I 
gave to it the name of Lake Abert. in honor of the chief of 
the corps to which I belonged. The fresh-water stream we 
had followed emptied into the lake by a little fall ; and I was 
douljtful for a moment whether to go on, or encamp at this 
place. Tile miry ground in the neighborhood of the lake did 
not allow us to examine the water conveniently, and, being 
now on the borders of a desert country, we were moving cau- 
tiously. It was, however, still early in the day, and I con- 
tinued on trusting either that the water would be drinkable, 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 293 

or that we should find some little spring from the hill-side. We 
were following an Indian trail which led along the steep rocky 
precipice — a black ridge along the western shore holding out 
no prospect whatever. The white efflorescences which lined 
tiio shore like a bank of snow, and the disagreeable odor which 
filled the air as soon as we came near, informed us too plainly 
that the water belonged to one of those fetid salt lakes which 
are common in this region. We continued until late in the 
evening to work along the rocky shore, but, as often after- 
wards, the dry, inhospitable rock deceived us ; and, halting on 
the lake, we kindled up fires to guide those who were strag- 
gling along behind. We tried the water, but it was impossible 
to drink it, and most of the people to-night lay down without 
eating ; but some of us, who had always a great reluctance to 
close the day without supper, dug holes along the shore, and 
obtained water, which, being filtered, was sufficiently palata- 
ble to be used, but still retained much of its nauseating 
taste. There was very little grass for the animals, the shore 
being lined with a luxuriant growth of chenopodiaceous shrubs, 
which burned with a quick bright flame, and made our firewood. 

The next morning we had scarcely traveled two hours along 
the shore, when we reached a place where the mountains made 
a bay, leaving at their feet a low bottom around the lake. 
Here we found numerous hillocks covered with rushes, in the 
midst of which were deep holes, or springs, of pure water ; 
and the bottom was covered with grass, which, although of a 
salt and unwholesome quality, and mixed with saline efflo- 
rescences, was still abundant, and made a good halting-place 
to recruit our animals, and we accordingly encamped here for 
the remainder of the day. I rode ahead several miles to as- 
certain if there was any appearance of a water-course entering 
the lake, but found none, the hills preserving their dry charac- 
ter, and the shore of the lake sprinkled with the same white 
powdery substance, and covered with the same shrubs. There 
were flocks of ducks on the lake, and frequent tracks of In- 
dians along the shore, where the grass had been recently burnt 
by their fires. 

We ascended the bordering mountain, in order to obtain a more 
25* 



294 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Dec. 

perfect view of" the lake, in sketching its figure : hills sweep en- 
tirely around its basin, from which the waters have no outlet. 

22d. — To-day we left this forbidding lake. Impassable 
rocky ridges barred our progress to the eastward, and I accord- 
ingly bore off towards the south, over an extensive sage-plain. 
At a considerable distance ahead, and a little on our left, wa? 
a range of snowy mountains, and the country declined gradu- 
ally towards the foot of a high and nearer ridge, immediately 
before us, which presented the feature of black precipicos now 
becoming common to the country. On the summit of the 
ridge, snow was visible ; and there being every indication of 
a stream at its base, we rode on until after dark, but were un- 
able to reach it, and halted among the sage-bushes on the open 
plain, without cither grass or water. The two India-rubber 
bags had been filled with water in the morning, which afforded 
sufficient for the camp ; and rain in the night formed pools, 
which relieved the thirst of the animals. Where we encamped 
on the bleak sandy plain, the Indians had made iiuts or circular 
enclosures, about four feet high and twelve feet broad, of artemisia 
bushes. Whether these had been forts or houses, or what they 
had been doing in such «f desert place, we could not ascertain. 

23d. — The weather is mild ; the thermometer at daylight 
38° ; the wind having been from the soutiiward lor several 
days. The country has a very forbidding appearance, present- 
ing to the eye nothing but sage, and barren ridges. We rode 
up towards the mountain, along the foot of which we found a 
lake, that we could not ai)proacii on account of the mud ; and, 
passing around its southern end, ascended the slope at tiie foot 
of the ridge, where in some hollows we had discovered bushes 
and small trees — in such situations, a sure sign of water. We 
found here several springs, and the hill-side was well sprinkled 
witli a species offestuca — a better grass than we had found for 
many days. Our elevated position gave us a good view over 
the country, but we discovered nothing very encouraging. 
Southward, about ten miles distant, was another small lake, 
towards which a broad trail led along the ridge ; and this ap- 
peariii!^ to al]()r(l tho most practicable route, I determined to 
continue our journey in that direction. 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 295 

24tli. — We found the water at the lake tolerably pure, and 
encamped at the farther end. There were some good grass 
and canes along the shore, and the vegetables at this place 
consisted principally of chonopodiaceous shrubs. 

25th. — We were roused on Chri.stmas morning by a dis- 
charge from the small-arms and howitzer, with which our 
people saluted the day ; and the name of which we bestowed 
on the lake. It was the first time, perhaps, in this remote and 
desolate region, in which it had been so commemorated. Al- 
ways, on days of religious or national commemoration, our 
voyageurs expect some unusual allowance ; and having nothing 
else, I gave them each a little brandy, (which Was carefully 
guarded, as one of the most useful articles a traveler can carry,) 
with some coffee and sugar, which here, where every eatable 
was a luxury, was sufficient to make them a feast. The day 
was sunny and warm ; and resuming our journey, we crossed 
some slight dividing grounds into a similar basin, walled in on 
the right by a lofty mountain ridge. The plainly-beaten trail 
still continued, and occasionally we passed camping-grounds 
of the Indians, which indicated to me that we were on one of 
the great thoroughfares of the country. In the afternoon I 
attempted to travel in a more eastern direction ; but after a 
few laborious miles, was beaten back into the basin by an im- 
passable country. There were fresh Indian tracks about the 
valley, and last niglit a horse was stolen. We encamped on 
the valley bottom, wiicre there was some cream-like water in 
ponds, colored by a clay soil, and frozen over. Chenopodia- 
ceous shrubs constituted the growth, and made again our fire- 
wood. The animals were driven to the hill, where there was 
tolerably good grass. 

26th. — Our general course was again south. The country 
consists of larger or smaller basins, into which the mountain 
waters run down, forming small lakes : they present a perfect 
level, from which the mountains rise immediately and abruptly. 
Between the successive basins, the dividing grounds arc usu- 
ally very slight; and it is probable that in the seasons of high 
water, many of these basins are in communication. At such 
times there is evidently an abundance of water, though now we 



296 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Dec. 

find scarcely more than the dry beds. On either side, the 
mountains, though not very high, appear to be rocky and sterile. 
The basin in which we were traveling declined towards the 
southwest corner, where the mountains indicated a narrow out- 
let ; and, turning round a rocky point or cape, we conliiiued 
up a lateral branch valley, in which we encamped at night, on 
a rapid, pretty little stream of fresh water, which we found un- 
expectedly among the sage, near the ridge, on the right side of 
the valley. It was bordered with grassy bottoms and clumps 
of willows; the water partially frozen. This stream belongs 
to the basin we had left. By a partial observation to-night, our 
camp was found to be directly on the 42d parallel. To-night 
a horse belonging to Carson, one of the best we had in the 
camp, was stolen by the Indians. 

27th. — We continued up the valley of the stream, the prin- 
cipai branch of which here issues from a bed of high moun- 
tains. We turned up a branch to the left, and fell into an In- 
dian trail, which conducted us by a good road over open bottoms 
along the creek, where the snow was five or six inches deep. 
Gradually ascending, the trail led through a good broad pass 
in the mountain, where we found the snow about one foot deep. 
There were some remarkably large cedars in the pass, which 
were covered with an unusual quantity of frost, which we sup- 
posed might possibly indicate the neighborhood of water ; and 
i\s, in the arbitrary position of Mary's lake, we were already 
beginning to look for it, this circumstance contributed to our 
hope of finding it near. Descending from the mountain, we 
reached another basin, on the flat lake bed of which we found 
no water, and encamped among the sage on the bordering plain, 
where the snow was still about one foot deep. Among this the 
grass was remarkably green, and to-night the animals fared 
tolerably well. 

28th. — The snow being deep, I had determined, if any more 
horses were stolen, to follow the tracks of the Indians into the 
mountains, and put a temporary ciieck to their sly operations ; 
but it did not occur again. 

Our road this morning lay down a level valley, bordered 
by steep mountainous ridges, rising very abruptly from the 



1843.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 297 

plain. Artemisia was tlie principal plant, mingled with Fre- 
montia and the chenopodiaceous shrubs. The artetnisia was 
here extremely large, being sometimes a foot in diameter, and 
eight feet high. Riding quietly along over the snow, we came 
suddenly upon smokes rising among these bushes ; and, gal- 
loping up, we found two huts, open at the top, and loosely built 
of sage, which appeared to have been deserted at the instant ; 
and, looking hastily around, we saw several Indians on the 
crest of the ridge near by, and several others scrambling up 
the side. We had come upon them so suddenly, that they 
had been well-nigh surprised in their lodges. A sage fire was 
burning in the middle ; a few baskets made of straw were 
lying about, with one or two rabbit-skins ; and there was a 
little grass scattered about, on which they had been lying. 
" Tabibo — bo !" they shouted from the hills — a word which, in 
the Snake language, signifies white — and remained looking at 
us from behind the rocks. Carson and Godey rode towards 
the hill, but the men ran off like deer. They had been so 
much pressed, that a woman with two children had dropped 
behind a sage-bush near the lodge, and when Carson acci- 
dentally stumbled upon her, she immediately began screaming 
in the extremity of fear, and shut her eyes fast to avoid seeing 
him. She was brought back to the lodge, and we endeavored 
in vain to open a communication with the men. By dint of 
presents, and friendly demonstrations, she was brought to calm- 
ness ; and we found that they belonged to the Snake nation, 
speaking the language of that people. Eight or ten appeared 
to live together, under the same little shelter ; and they seemed 
to have no other subsistence than the roots or seeds they might 
have stored up, and the hares which live in the sage, and which 
they are enabled to track through the snow, and are very 
skilful in killing. Their skins afford them a little scanty cov- 
ering. Herding together among bushes, and crouching almost 
naked over a little sage fire, using their instinct only to procure 
food, these may be considered, among human beings, the near- 
est approach to the animal creation. We have reason to believe 
that these had never before seen the face of a white man. 
The day had been pleasant, but about two o'clock it began 



298 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Dec. 

to blow ; and crossing a slight dividing ground we encamped on 
the sheltered side of a hill, where there was good bunch-grass, 
having made a day's journey of 24 miles. The night closed in, 
threatening snow ; but the large sage-bushes made bright fires. 

29th. — The morning mild, and at 4 o'clock it commenced 
snowing. We took our way across a plain, thickly covered 
with snow, towards a range of hills in the southeast. The 
sky soon became so dark with snow, that little could be seen 
of the surrounding country ; and we reached the summit of 
the hills in a heavy snow-storm. On the side we had ap- 
proached, this had appeared to be only a ridge of low hills ; 
and we were surprised to find ourselves on the summit of a bed 
of broken mountains, which, as far as the weather would 
permit us to see, declined rapidly to some low country ahead, 
presenting a dreary and savage character ; and for a moment 
I looked around in doubt on the wild and inhospitable prospect, 
scarcely knowing what road to take which might conduct us 
to some place of shelter for the night. Noticing among the 
hills the head of a grassy Iiollow, I determined to follow it, in 
the hope that it would conduct us to a stream. VV^e followed 
a winding descent for several miles, the hollow gradually 
broadening into little meadows, and becoming the bed of a 
stream as we advanced ; and towards night we were agreeably 
surprised by the appearance of a willow grove, where we 
found a sheltered camp, with water and excellent and abundant 
grass. Tfie grass, which was covered by the snow on the 
bottom, was long and green, and the face of the mountain had 
a more favorable character in its vegetation, being smoother, 
and covered with good bunch-grass. The snow was deep, and 
the night very cold. A broad trail had entered the valley from 
the right, and a short distance below the camp were the tracks 
where a considerable party of Indians had ])asscd on horseback, 
who hiul turned out to the left, apparently with the view of 
crossing the mountains to the eastward. 

80th. — .\fter fjllowing the stream for a few hours in a 
southeasterly direction, it entered a canon where we could not 
follow ; but, determined not to leave the stream, we searched 
a passage below, where we could regain it, and entered a reg- 



1843.] CAPT. FREMOiXx's NARRATIVE. 299 

ular narrow valley. The water had now moi'e the appearance 
of a flowing creek ; several times we passed groves of willows, 
and we began to feel ourselves out of all difficulty. From our 
position, it was reasonable to conclude that this stream would 
find its outlet in Mary's lake, and conduct us into a better 
country. We had descended rapidly, and here we found very 
little snow. On both sides, the mountains showed often stu- 
pendous and curious-looking rocks, which at several places so 
narrowed the valley, that scarcely a pass was left for the camp. 
It was a singular place to travel through — shut up in the earth, 
a sort of chasm, the little strip of grass under our feet, the 
rough walls of bare rock on either hand, and the narrow strip 
of sky above. The grass to-night was abundant, and we en- 
camped in high spirits. 

31st. — After an hour's ride this morning, our hopes were 
once more destroyed. The valley opened out, and before us 
again lay one of the dry basins. After some search, we dis- 
covered a high- water outlet, which brought us in a few miles, 
and by a descent of several hundred feet, into a long, broad 
basin, in which we found the bed of the stream, and obtained 
sufficient water by cutting the ice. The grass on the bottoms 
was salt and unpalatable. 

Here we concluded the year 1843, and our new year's eve was 
rather a gloomy one. The result of our journey began to be very 
uncertain; the country was singularly unfavorable to travel ; 
the grasses being frequently of a very unwholesome character, 
and the hoofs of our animals were so worn and cut by the rocks, 
that many of them were lame, and could scarcely be got along. 



JANUARY. 



New Year's day, 1844. — We continued down the valley, 
between a dry-looking black ridge on the left, and a more 
snowy and liigh one on the right. Our road was bad along 
the bottom, being broken by gullies and impeded by sage, and 
sandy on the hills, where there is not a blade of grass, nor 
does any appear on the mountains. The soil in many places 



300 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

consists of a fine powdery sand, covered with a saline cfllores- 
cence ; and the general character of the country is desert. 
During the day we directed our course towards a black cape, 
at the foot of which a column of smoke indicated hot springs. 

2d. — We were on the road early. The face of the country 
was hidden by falling snow. We traveled along the bed of the 
stream, in some places dry, in others covered with ice ; the 
traveling being very bad, through deep fine sand, rendered 
tenacious by a mixture of clay. The weather cleared up a 
little at noon, and we reached the hot springs of which we had 
seen the vapor the day before. There was a large field of the 
usual salt grass here, peculiar to such places. The country 
otherwise is a perfect barren, without a blade of grass, the 
only plant being some dwarf Fremontias. We passed the 
rocky cape, a jagged broken point, bare and torn. The rocks 
are volcanic, and the hills here have a burnt appearance — 
cinders and coal occasionally appearing as at a blacksmith's 
forge. We crossed the large dry bed of a muddy lake in a 
southeasterly direction, and encamped at night, without water 
and without grass, among sage-bushes covered with snow. 
The heavy road made several mules give out to-day ; and a 
horse, which had made the journey from the States success- 
fully, thus far, was left on the trail. 

3d. — A fog, so dense that we could not see a hundred yards, 
covered the country, and the men that were sent out after the 
horses were bewildered and lost ; and we were consequently 
detained at camp until late in the day. Our situation had 
nolv become a serious one. We had reached and run over 
the position where, according to the best maps in my posses- 
sion, we should have found Mary's lake or river. We were 
evidently on the verge of the desert which had been reported 
to us ; and the appearance of the country was so forbidding, 
that I was afraid to enter it, and determined to bear away to 
the .southward, keeping close along the mountains, in the full 
expectation of reaching the Buenaventura river. This morning 
I put every man in the camp on foot — myself, of course, among 
the rest — and in this manner lightened by distribution the loads 
of the animals. We traveled seven or eight miles along the 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 301 

ridge bordering the valley, and encamped where there were a 
few bunches of grass on the bed of a hill-torrent, without wa- 
ter. There were some large artemisias ; but the principal 
plants are chenopodiaceous shrubs. The rock composing the 
mountains is here changed suddenly into white granite. The 
fog showed the tops of the hills at sunset, and stars enough for 
observations in the early evening, and then closed over us as 
before. Latitude by observation, 40° 48^ 15^^. 

4th. — The fog to-day was still more dense, and the people 
again were bewildered. We traveled a few miles around 
the western point of the ridge, and encamped where there 
were a few tufts of grass, but no water. Our animals now 
were in a very alarming state, and there was increased anx- 
iety in the camp. 

5th. — Same dense fog continued, and one of the mules died 
in camp this morning. I have had occasion to remark, on 
such occasions as these, that animals which are about to die 
leave the band, and, coming into the camp, lie down about the 
fires. We moved to a place where there was a little better 
grass, about two miles distant. Taplin, one of our best men, 
who had gone out on a scouting excursion, ascended a moun- 
tain near by, and to his surprise emerged into a region of 
bright sunshine, in which the upper parts of the mountain 
were glowing, while below all was obscured in the dark- 
est fog. 

6th. — The fog continued the same, and, with Mr. Preuss 
and Carson, I ascended the mountain, to sketch the leading 
features of the country as some indication of our future route, 
while Mr. Fitzpatrick explored the country below. In a very 
short distance we had ascended above the mist, but* the view- 
obtained was not very gratifying. The fog had partially 
cleared off from below when we reached the summit ; and i)i 
the southwest corner of a basin communicatins with that in 

o 

which we had encamped, we saw a lofty column of smoke, 16 
miles distant, indicating the presence of hot springs. There, 
also, appeared to be the outlet of those draining channels of the 
country ; and, as such places allbrded always more or less 
grass, I determined to steer in that direction. The ridge we 

26 



30'J CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

had ascended appeared to be composed of fragments of white 
granite. We saw here traces of sheep and antelope. 

Entering the neighboring valley, and crossing the bed of 
another lake, after a hard day's travel over ground of yielding 
mud and sand, we reached the springs, where we found an 
abundance of grass, which, though only tolerably good, made 
this place, with reference to the past, a refreshing and agree- 
able spot. 

This is the most extraordinary locality of hot springs we had 
met during the journey. The basin of the largest one has a 
circumference of several hundred feet ; but there is at one ex- 
tremity a circular space of about fifteen feet in diameter, en- 
tirely occupied by the boiling water. It boils up at irregular 
intervals, and with much noise. The water is clear, and the 
spring deep : a pole about sixteen feet long was easily immersed 
in the centi'e ; but we had no means of forming a good idea of 
the depth. It was surrounded on the margin with a border of 
green grass, and near the shore the temperature of the water 
was 206^^. We had no means of ascertaining that of the 
centre, where the heat was greatest ; but, by dispersing the 
water with a pole, tJie temperature at the margin was increased 
to 208°, and in the centre it was doubtless higher. By driving 
the pole towards the bottom, the water was made to boil up 
with increased force and noise. There are several other inter- 
esting places, where water and smoke or gas escape ; i)ut they 
would require a long description. The water is impregnated 
with common salt, but not so much as to render it unfit for gen- 
eral cooking ; and a mixture of snow made it pleasant to 
drink. 

Ill tlic immediate neighborhood, the valley bottom is covered 
almost exclusively with chenopodiaceous shrubs, of greater 
luxuriance, and larger growth, than we have seen them in any 
preceding part of the journey. 

I obtained this evening some astronomical observations. 

Our situation now required caution. Including those which 
gave out from the injured condition of their feet, and those 
stolen by Indians, we had lost, since leaving the Dalles of the 
Columbia, fifteen animals ; and of these, nine had been left in 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 303 

the last few days. I therefore determined, until \vc should 
reach a country of water and vegetation, to feel our way ahead, 
by having the line of route explored some fifteen or twenty 
miles in advance, and only to leave a present encampment 
when the succeeding one was known. 

Taking with me Godey and Carson, I made to-day a thorough 
exploration of the neighboring valleys, and found in a ravine, 
in the bordering mountains, a good encamping place, where 
was water in springs, and a sufficient quantity of grass for a 
night. Overshadowing the springs were some trees of the 
sweet Cottonwood, which, after a long interval of absence, we 
saw again with pleasure ; regarding them as harbingers of a 
better country. To us, they were eloquent of green prairies 
and buffalo. We found here a broad and plainly-marked trail, 
on which there were tracks of horses, and we appeared to have 
regained one of the thoroughfares which pass by the watering- 
places of the country. On the western mountains of the val- 
ley, with which this of the boiling spring communicates, we 
remarked scattered cedars — probably indicating that we were 
on the borders of the timbered region extending to the Pacific. 
We reached the camp at sunset, after a day's ride of about 
40 miles. The horses we rode were in good order, being of 
some that were kept for emergencies, and rarely used. 

Mr. Preuss had ascended one of the mountains, and occupied 
the day in sketching the country ; and Mr. Fitzpatrick had 
found, a few miles distant, a hollow of excellent grass and pure 
water, to which the animals were driven, as I remained another 
day to give them an opportunity to recruit their strength, In- 
dians appear to be everywhere prowling about like wild ani- 
mals, and there is a fresh trail across the snow in the valley near. 

Latitude of the boiling springs, 40^ 39^ 46^^ 

On the 9th we crossed over to the cottonwood camp. Among 
the shrubs on the hills were a few bushes of ephedra occidenialis, 
which afterwards occurred frequently along the road, and, as 
usual, the lowlands were occupied with artemisia. While the 
party proceeded to this place, Carson and myself reconnoitred 
the road in advance, and found another good encampment for 
the following day. 



304 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

10th. — We continued our reconnoissance ahead, pursuing a 
south direction in the basin along the ridge ; the camp Ibllow- 
ing slowly after. On a large trail there is never any doubt 
of finding suitable places for encampments. We reached the 
end of the basin, where we found, in a hollow of the mountain 
which enclosed it, an abundance of good bunch-grass. Leav- 
ing a signal for the party to encamp, we continued our way 
up the hollow, intending to see what lay beyond the mountain. 
The hollow was several miles long, forming a good pass ; the 
snow deepening to about a foot as we neared the summit. Be- 
yond, a defile between the mountains descended rapidly about 
two thousand feet; and, filling up all the lower space, was a 
sheet of green water, some twenty miles broad. It broke upon 
our eyes like the ocean. The neighboring peaks rose high 
above us, and we ascended one of them to obtain a better view. 
The waves were curling in the breeze, and their dark-green 
color showed it to be a body of deep water. For a long time 
we sat enjoying the view, for we had become fatigued with 
mountains, and the free expanse of moving waves was very 
grateful. It was set like a gem in the mountains, which, from 
our position, seemed to enclose it almost entirely. At the west- 
ern end it communicated with the line of basins we had left a 
few days since ; and on the opposite side it swept a ridge of 
snowy mountains, the foot of the great Sierra. Its position at 
first inclined us to believe it Mary's lake, but the rugged moun- 
tains were so entirely discordant with descriptions of its low 
rushy shores and open country, that we concluded it some un- 
known body of water, which it afterwards proved to be. 

On our road down, the next day, we saw herds of mountain 
sheep, and encamped on a little stream at the mouth of the de- 
file, about a mile from the margin of the water, to which we 
hurried down immediately. The water is so slightly salt, that, 
at first, we thought it fresh, and would be pleasant to drinl: 
when no ollu-r could be had. The shore was rocky — a iiand- 
some beach, which reminded us of the sea. On some large 
graiiilc boulders that were scattered about the shore, I remark- 
ed a coating of calcareous substance, in some places a few 
inches, and in others a foot in thickness. Near our camp, the 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 305 

hills, which were of primitive rock, were also covered with 
this substance, which was in too great quantity on the moun- 
tains along the shore of the lake to have been deposited by 
water, and has the appearance of having been spread over the 
rocks in mass.* 

Where Ave had halted appeared to be a favorite camping- 
place for Indians. 

13th. — We followed again a broad Indian trail along the 
shore of the lake to the southward. For a short space we had 
room enough in the bottom ; but, after traveling a short dis- 
tance, the water swept the foot of the precipitous mountains, 
the peaks of which are about 3,000 feet above the lake. The 
trail wound along the base of these precipices, against which 
the water dashed below, by a way nearly impracticable for the 
howitzer. During a greater part of the morning the lake was 
nearly hid by a snow-storm, and the waves broke on the nar- 
row beach in a long line of foaming serf, five or six feet high.. 
The day was unpleasantly cold, the wind driving the snow 
sharp against our faces ; and, having advanced only about 12 
miles, we encamped in a bottom formed by a ravine, covered: 
with good grass, which was fresh and green. 

We did not get the howitzer into camp, but were obliged to 
leave it on the rocks until morning. We saw several flocks 
of sheep, but did not succeed in killing any. Ducks were 
riding on the waves, and several large fish were seen. The 
mountain sides were crusted with the calcareous cement pre- 
viously mentioned. There were chenopodiaceous and other 



* The label attached to a specimen of this rock was lost ; but I ap- 
pend an analysis of that which, from memory, I judge to be the speci- 
men : 

Carbonate of lime 77-31 

Carbonate of magnesia ...... 5"25 

Oxide of iron 1-60 

Alumina l-OS 

Silica 8-55 

Organic matter, water, and loss .... G-24 

10000 
26* 



^06 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

shrubs along the beach ; and, at the foot of the rocks, an abun- 
ilancc of ephedra occidentalis, whose dark-green color makes 
them evergreens among the shrubby growth of the lake. To- 
wards evening the snow began to full heavily, and the country 
had a wintry appearance. 

The next morning the snow was rapidly melting under a 
warm sun. Part of the morning was occupied in bringing up 
the gun ; and, making only nine miles, we encamped on the 
shore, opposite a very remarkable rock in the lake, which had 
attracted our attention for many miles. It rose, according to 
our estimate, 600 feet above the water, and, from the point we 
viewed it, presented a pretty exact outline of the great pyra- 
mid of Cheops. Like other rocks along the shore, it seemed 
to be incrustcd with calcareous cement. This striking feature 
suggested a name for the lake, and I called it Pyramid Lake ; 
and though it may be deemed by some a fanciful resemblance, 
I can undertake to say that the future traveler will find much 
more striking resemblance between this rock and the pyramids 
of Egypt, than there is between them and the object from which 
they take their name. 

The elevation of this lake above the sea is 4,890 feet, being 
nearly 700 feet higher than the Great Salt lake, from which it 
lies nearly west, and distant about eight degrees of longitude. 
The position and elevation of this lake make it an object of 
geographical interest. It is the nearest lake to the western 
rim, as the Great Salt lake is to the eastern rim, of the Great 
Basin which lies between the base of the Rocky mountains 
and the Sierra Nevada — and the extent and character of 
which, its whole circumference and contents, it is so desirable 
to know. 

The last of the cattle which had been driven from the 
Dalles was killed here for food, and was still in good condi- 
tion. 

l.'ith. — A fmv poor-looking Indians made their appearance 
this morning, and we succeeded in getting one into the camp. 
He was naked, with the exception of a tunic of hare-skins. 
He told us that there was a river at the end of the lake, but 
that he lived in the rocks near by. From the few words our 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narkative. 307 

people could understand, he spoke a dialect of the Snake lan- 
guage ; but we were not able to understand enough to know 
whether the river ran in or out, or what was its course ; con- 
sequently, there still remained a chance that this might be 
Mary's lake. 

Groves of large cottonwood, which we could see at the mouth 
of the river, indicated that it was a stream of considerable size, 
and, at all events, we had the pleasure to know that now we 
were in a country where human beings could live. Accom- 
panied by the Indian, we resumed our road, passing on the 
way several caves in the rock where there were baskets and 
seeds, but the people had disappeared. We saw also horse- 
tracks along the shore. 

Early in the afternoon, when we were approaching the 
groves at the mouth of the river, three or four Indians met us 
on the trail. We had an explanatory conversation in signs, 
and then we moved on together towards the village, which the 
chief said was encamped on the bottom. 

Reaching the groves, we found the inlet of a large fresh- 
water stream, and all at once were satisfied that it was neither 
Mary's river nor the waters of the Sacramento, but that we 
had discovered a large interior lake, which the Indians inform- 
ed us had no outlet. It is about 35 miles long, and, by the 
mark of the water-line along the shore, the spi'ing level is 
about 12 feet above its present waters. The chief commenced 
speaking in a loud voice as we approached ; and parties of In- 
dians, armed with bows and arrows, issued from the thickets. 
We selected a strong place for our encampment — a grassy 
bottom, nearly enclosed by the river, and furnislied with abun- 
dant firewood. The village, a collection of straw huts, was a 
few hundred yards higher up. An Indian brought in a large 
fish to trade, which we had the inexpressible satisfaction to 
find was a salmon-trout ; we gathered round him eagerly. 
The Indians were amused with our delight, and immediately 
brought in numbers, so that the camp was soon stocked. Their 
flavor was excellent — superior, in fact, to that of any fish I 
have ever known. They were of extraordinary size — about 
as large as the Columbia River salmon — generally from two 



^08 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

to four feet in length. From the information of Mr. Walker, 
who passed among some lakes lying more to the eastward, this 
fish is common to the streams of the inland lakes. He subse- 
quently informed me that he had obtained them weighing six 
pounds when cleaned and the- head taken off, which corre- 
sponds very well with the size of those obtained at this place. 
They doubtless formed the subsistence of these people, who 
hold the fishery in exclusive possession. 

I remarked that one of them gave a fish to the Indian we 
had first seen, which he carried olf to his family. To them it 
was probably a feast; being of the Digger tribe, and having 
no share in the fishery, living generally on seeds and roots. 
Although this was a time of the year when the fish have not 
yet become fat, they were excellent, and we could only im- 
agine what they are at the proper season. These Indians 
were very fat, and appeared to live an easy and happy life. 
They crowded into the camp more than was consistent with 
our safety, rctaijiing always their arms; and, as they made 
some unsatisfactory demonstrations, they were given to un- 
derstand that they -would not be permitted to come armed into 
the camp'; and strong guards were kept with the horses. 
Strict vigilance was maintained among the people, and one- 
third at a time were kept on guard during the night. There 
is no reason to doubt that these dispositions, uniformly pre- 
served, conducted our party securely through Indians finned 
for treachery. 

In the mean time, such a salmon-trout feast as is seldom 
seen was going on in our camp ; and every variety of manner 
in which nsh could be prepared — boiled, fried, and roasted in 
the ashes — rwas put into requisition ; and every few minutes 
an Indian would be seen running off to spear a fresh one. 
Whether these Indians had seen whites before, we could not 
be certain ; but they wore evidently in communication with 
others who had, as one of them had some brass buttons, and 
we noticed several other articles of civilized manufacture. 
We could obtain from them but little information respecting 
the country. Th^y made on the ground a drawing of the 
river, which they represented as issuing from another lake in 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 309 

the mountains three or four days distant, in a direction a little 
west of south ; beyond which, they drew a mountain ; a«d 
further still, two 'rivers ; on one of which they told us that 
people like ourselves traveled. Whether '^hey alluded to the 
settlements on the Sacramento, or to a party from the United 
States which had crossed the Sierra about three degrees to the 
southward, a few years since, I am unable to determine. 

I tried unsuccessfully to prevail on some of them to guide us 
for a few days on the road, but they only looked at each other 
and laughed. 

The latitude of our encampment, which may be considered 
the mouth of the inlet, is 39° 51^ 13^^ by our observations. 

16th. — This morning we continued our journey along this 
beautiful stream, which we naturally called the Salmon Trout 
river. Large tr^iils led upon either side; the stream was 
handsomely timbered with large cottonwoods ; and the waters 
were very clear and pure. We were traveling along the 
mountains of the great Sierra, which rose on our right, covered 
with snow ; but below the temperature was mild and pleasant. 
We saw a number of dams which the Indians had constructed 
to catch fish: After having made about 18 miles, we encamp- 
ed under some large cottonwoods on the river bottom, where 
there was tolerably good grass. 

17th.' — This morning we left the river, which lYi^'e issues from 
the mountains on the west. With every stream J now expected 
to see the great Buenaventura ; and Carson hurried eagerly to 
search, on every one we reached, for beaver, cuttings, which 
he always maintained we should find only on waters that ran 
to the Pacific ; and the absence of such signs was to him a sure 
indication that the water had no outlet from the Great Basin. We 
followed the Indian trail through a tolerably level country, with 
small sage-bushes, which brought us, after 20 miles' journey, 
to another large stream, timbered with Cottonwood, and flow- 
ing also out of the mountains, but running more directly to the 
eastward. 

On the way we surprised a family of Indians in the hills ; 
but the man ran up the mountain with rapidity ; and the wo- 
man was so terrified, and kept up such a continued scream- 



310 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

ing, that we could do nothing with her, and were obliged to let 
her go. 

18th. — There were Indian lodges and fish-dams on the stream. 
There were no beaver cuttings on the river ; but below, it 
turned round to the right ; and, hoping that it would prove a 
branch of the Buenaventura, we followed it down for about 
three hours, and encamped. 

I rode out with Mr. Fitzpatrick and Carson to reconnoitre 
the country, which had evidently been alarmed by the news 
of our appearance. This stream joined with the open valley 
of another to the eastward ; but which way the main water 
ran, it was impossible to tell. Columns of smoke rose over the 
country at scattered intervals — signals by which the Indians 
here, as elsewhere, communicate to each other that enemies are 
in the country. It is a signal of ancient and very universal 
application among barbarians. 

Examining into tlie condition of the animals when I return- 
ed into the camp, I found their feet so much cut up by the 
rocks, and so many of them lame, that it was evidently impos- 
sible that they could cross the country to the Rocky moun- 
tains. Every piece of iron tiiat could be used for-the purpose 
had been converted into nails, and we could make no JHrtlicr 
use of the shoes we had remaining. I thereforei(p?termined 
to abandon my eastern course, and to cross the Sierra Nevada 
into the valley of tlie Sacramento, wherever a practicable pass 
could be found. My decision was heard with joy by the peo- 
ple, and ditlused new life throughout the camp. 

Latitude, by observation, 39° 24' W. 

19tli. — A great number of smokes are still visible this morn- 
ing, attesting at once the alarm our appearance had spread 
among these people, and their ignorance of us. If they 
knew the whites, they would understand that their only ob- 
ject in coming among them was to trade, which required 
peace and friendship ; but they have nothing to trade — ?on- 
.secjucntly, notliiiig to attract tlie white man ; hence their fear 
and fli,t,'ht. 

At daybreak we had a heavy snow ; but set out, and, re- 
luming up the stream, went out of our way in a circuit over 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narkative. 311 

a little mountain ; and encamped on the same stream, a few 
miles above, in latitude 39^^ 19' 2V^ by observation. 

20th. — To-day we continued up the stream, and encamped 
on it close to the mountains. The freshly fallen snow was 
covered'with the tracks of Indians, who had descended from 
the upper waters, probably called down by the smokes in the 
plain. 

We ascended a peak of the range, which commanded a view 
of this stream behind the first ridge, where it was winding its 
course through a somewhat open valley, and I sometimes re- 
gret that I did not make the trial to cross here ; but while we 
had fair weather below, the mountains were darkened with 
falling snow, and, feeling unwilling to encounter them, we 
turned away again to the southward. In that direction we 
traveled the next day over a tolerably level country, having 
always the high mountains on the west. There was but little 
snow or rock on the ground ; and, after having traveled 24 
miles, we encamped again on another large stream, running 
off to the northward and eastward, to meet that we had left. 
It ran through broad bottoms, having a fine meadow-land ap- 
pearance. 

Latitude 39<^ 01' 53''. 

22d. — We traveled up the stream about fourteen miles, to 
the foot of the mountains, from which one branch issued in the 
southwest, the other flowing S.S.E. along their base. Leaving 
the camp below, we ascended the range through which the 
first stream passed, in a canon ; on the western side was a circu- 
lar valley about 15 miles long, through which the stream wound 
its way, issuing from a gorge in the main mountain, which 
rose abruptly beyond. The valley looked yellow with faded 
grass ; and the trail we had followed was visible, making to- 
wards the gorge, and this was evidently a pass ; but again, 
while all was bright sunshine on the ridge and on the vallev 
where we were, the snow was falling heavily in the moun- 
tains. I determined to go still to the southward, and encamp- 
ed on the stream near the forks ; the animals being fatigued 
and the grass tolerably good. 

The rock of the ridge wc had ascended is a compact lava, as- 



312 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

huming a granitic appearance and structure, and containing, 
in some phices, small nodules of obsidian. So far as composi- 
tion and aspect are concerned, the rock in other parts of the 
ridge appears to be granite ; but it is probable that this is only 
a compact form of lava of recent origin. 

By observation, the elevation of the encampment was 5,020 
feet ; and the latitude 38° 49' 54'^ 

23d. — We moved along the course of the other branch to- 
wards the southeast, the country affording a fine road ; and, 
passing some slight dividing-grounds, descended towards the 
valley of another stream. There was a somewhat rough-look- 
ing mountain ahead, which it appeared to issue from, or to 
enter — we could not tell which ; and as the course of the val- 
ley and the inclination of the ground had a favorable direction, 
we were sanguine to find here a branch of the Buenaventura ; 
but were again disappointed, finding it an inland water, on 
which we encamped after a day's journey of 24 miles. It was 
evident that, from the time we descended into the plain at 
Summer lake, we had been flanking the great range of moun- 
tains which divided the Great Basin from the waters of the 
Pacific ; and that the continued succession, and almost con- 
nection, of lakes and rivers which we encountered, were the 
drainings of that range. Its rains, springs, and snows, would 
sufiicicntly account fur these lakes and streams, numerous as 
they were. 

24th. — A man was discovered running towards the camp as 
we "were about to start this morning, who proved to be an In- 
dian of rather advanced age — a sort of forlorn hope, who 
seemed to have been worked up into the resolution of visiting 
the strangers who were passing tfirough the country. Me 
seized the hand of the first man he met as he came up, out of 
breath, and held on, as if to assure himself of protection. He 
brouglu with him, in a little skin bag, a few pounds of the 
seeds of a pine-tree, which to-day we saw for the first time, 
and which Ur. Torrey has described as a new species, under 
the name of pinus nionophylhis ; in popular Jllnguage it might 
be called the nut pine. We purchased them all from him. 
The nut is oily, of very agreeable flavor, and must be very 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 313 

nutritious, as it constitutes the principal subsistence of the 
tribes among which we were now traveling. By a present 
of scarlet cloth, and other striking articles, we prevailed upon 
this man to be our guide of two days' journey. As clearly as 
possible by signs, we made him understand our object ; and 
he engaged to conduct us in sight of a good pass which he 
knew. Here we ceased to hear the Shoshonee language — 
that of this man being perfectly unintelligible. Several In- 
dians, who had been waiting to see what reception he would 
meet with, now came into camp ; and, accompanied by the 
new-comers, we resumed our journey. 

The road led us up the creek, which here becomes a rather 
rapid mountain stream, fifty feet wide, between dark-looking 
hills without snow ; but immediately beyond them rose snowy 
mountains on either side, timbered principally with the nut 
pine. On the lower grounds, the general height of this tree is 
twelve to twenty feet, and eight inches the greatest diameter ; 
it is rather branching, and has a peculiar and singular, but 
pleasant odor. We followed the river for only a short distance 
along a rocky trail, and crossed it at a dam which tlie Indians 
made us comprehend had been built to catch salmon trout. 
The snow and ice were heaped up against it three or four feet 
deep entirely across the stream. 

Leaving here the stream, which runs through impassabte 
canons, we continued our road over a very broken country, 
passing through a low gap between the snowy mountains. 
The rock which occurs immediately in the pass has the ap- 
pearance of impure sandstone, containing scales of black mica. 
This may be only a stratified lava. On issuing from the gap, 
the compact lava, and other volcanic products usual in the 
country, again occurred. We descended from the gap into a 
wide valley, or rather basin, and encamped on a small tribu- 
tary to the last stream, on which there was very good grass. It 
was covered with such thick ice, that it required some labor with 
pickaxes to make holes for the animals to drink. The banks 
are lightly wooded with willow, and on tlic upper bottoms are 
sage and Fremontia, with ephedra occidenialis, which begins 
to occur more frequently. The day has been a summer one, 

27 



314 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

warm ami |)lfasaiit ; no snow on the trail, which, as we are all 
on foot, niakfs travt.'lit)g more agreeable. The hunters went 
into a neighboring mountain, but found no game. We have 
five Indians in camp to-night. 

25th. — The morning was cold and bright, and as the sun 
rose the day became beautiful. A party of twelve Indians 
came down from the mountains to trade pine nuts, of which 
each one carried a little bag. These seemed now to be the 
staple of the country ; and whenever we met an Indian, his 
friendly salutation consisted in offering a few nuts to eat 
and to trade ; their only arms were bows and flint-pointed 
arrows. It appeared that in almost all the valleys the neighbor- 
ing bands were at war with each other ; and we had some 
difficulty in prevailing on our guides to accompany us on this 
day's journey, being at M'ar with the people on the other side 
of a large snowy mountain which lay before us. 

The general level of the country appeared to be getting 
higher, and we were gradually entering the heart of the moun- 
tains. Accompanied by all the Indians, we ascended a long 
ridge, and reached a pure spring at the edge of the timber, 
where the Indians had waylaid and killed an antelope, and 
where the greater part of them left us. Our pacific conduct 
had quieted their alarms ; and though at war among eacli other, 
y6t all confided in us — thanks to the combined elTects of power 
and kindness — for our arms inspired respect, and our lit- 
tle presents and good treatment conciliated their confidence. 
Here we suddenly entered snow six inches deep, and the ground 
was a little rocky, with volcanic fragments, the mountain ap- 
pearing to be composed of such rock. The timber consists 
principally of nut pines, (pinus monophyUus,) which here are 
of larger size — 12 to 15 inches in diameter; heaps of cones 
lying on the ground, where the Indians have gathered the 
seeds. 

The snow (lf( pened gradually as we advanced. Our guides 
wore out their moccasins ; and putting one of them on a horse, 
we enjoyed the unusual sight of an Indian who could not ride. 
lie could not even guide the animal, and apj)eared to have no 
knowledge of horses. The snow was three or lour leet deep 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 315 

on the summit of ilie pass ; and from this point the guide point- 
ed out our future road, declining to go any further. Below us 
was a little valley ; and beyond this the mountains rose high- 
er still, one ridge above another, presenting a rude and rocky 
outline. We descended rapidly to the valley : the snow im- 
peded us but little ; yet it was dark when we reached the foot 
of the mountain. 

The day had been so warm that our moccasins were wet 
with melting snow ; but here, as soon as the sun begins to de- 
cline, the air gets suddenly cold, and we had great difficulty 
to keep our feet from freezing — our moccasins being frozen 
perfectly stiff. After a hard day's march of 27 miles, we 
reached the river some time after dark, and found the snow 
about a foot deep on the bottom — the river being entirely frozen 
over. We found a comfortable camp, where there were dry 
willows abundant, and we soon had blazing fires. A little 
brandy, which I husbanded with great care, remained, and I 
do not know any medicine more salutary, or any drink (except 
coffee) more agreeable, than this in a cold night and after a 
hard day's march. Mr. Preuss questioned whether the famed 
nectar ever possessed so exquisite a flavor. All felt it to be a 
reviving cordial. 

The next morning, when the sun had not yet risen over 
the mountains, the thermometer was at 2° below zero ; 
but the sky was bright and pure, and the weather changed 
rapidly into a pleasant day of summer. I remained encamped 
in order to examine the country, and allow the animals a day 
of rest, the grass being good and abundant under the snow. 

The river is fifty or eighty feet wide, with a lively current, 
and very clear water. It forked a little above our camp, one 
of its branches coming directly from the south. At its head 
appeared to be a handsome pass ; and from the neighboring 
heights we could see, beyond, a comparatively low and open 
country, which was supposed to form the valley of the Buena- 
ventura. The other branch issued from a nearer pass, in a 
direction S. 75^ W., forking at the foot of the mountain, and 
receiving a part of its waters from a little lake. T was in 
advance of the camp when our last guides had left us ; but, 



316 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

so far as could be understood, this was the pass which they 
had indicated, and, in company with Carson, to-day I set out 
to explore it. Entering the range, we continued in a north- 
westerly direction up the valley, which here bent to the right. 
It was a pretty open bottom, locked between lofty mountains, 
which supplied frequent streams as we advanced. On the 
lower part they were covered with nut-pine trees, and above 
with masses of pine, which we easily recognised, from the 
darker color of the foliage. From the fresh traiU which 
occurred frequently during the morning, deer appeared to be 
remarkably numerous in the mountain. 

We had now entirely left the desert country, and were on 
the verge of a region which, extending westward to the shores 
of the Pacific, abounds in large game, and is covered with # 
singular luxuriance of vegetable life. 

The little stream grew rapidly smaller, and in about twelve 
miles we had reached its head, the last water coming imme- 
diately out of the mountain on the right ; and this spot was se- 
lected for our next encampment. The grass showed well in 
sunny places ; but in colder situations the snow was deep, and 
began to occur in banks, through which the horses found some 
difficulty in breaking a way. 

To the left, the open valley continued in a southwesterly di- 
rection, with a scarcely perceptible ascent, forming a beautiful 
pass, the exploration of which we deferred until the next day, 
and returned to the camp. 

To-day an Indian passed through the valley, on his way 
into the mountains, where he showetl us was his lodge. We 
comprehended nothing of his language ; and, though he ap- 
peared to have no fear, passing along in full view of the camp, 
he was indisposed to hold any communication with us, but 
showed the way he was going, and pointed for us to go on our 
road. 

By observation, the latitude of this encampment was 38^ 
18' 01'^ and the elevation above the sea 6,310 feet. 

27th. — Leaving the camp to follow slowly, with directions 
to Carson to encamp at the place agreed on, Mr. Fitzpatrick 
and myself continued the reconnoissance. Arriving at the head 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 317 

of the stream, 'we began to enter the pass — passing occasional- 
ly through open groves of large pine-trees, on the warm side 
of the defile, where the snow had melted away, occasionally 
exposing a large Indian trail. Continuing along a narrow 
meadow, we reached, in a few miles, the gate of the pass, where 
there was a narrow strip of prairie, about 50 yards wide, be- 
tween walls of granite rock. On either side rose the moun- 
tains, forming on the left a rugged mass, or nucleus, wholly 
covered with deep snow, presenting a glittering and icy sur- 
face. At the time, we supposed this to be the point into which 
they were gathered between the two great rivers, and from 
which the waters flowed off to the bay. This was the icy and 
cold side of the pass, and the rays of the sun hardly touched 
the snow. On the left, the mountains rose into peaks, but they 
were lower and secondary, and the country had a somewhat 
more open and lighter character. On the right were several 
hot springs, which appeared remarkable in such a place. In 
going through, we felt impressed by the majesty of the moun- 
tain, along the huge wall of which we were riding. Here 
there was no snow ; but immediately beyond was a deep bank, 
through which we dragged our horses with considerable effort. 
We then immediately struck upon a stream, which gathered 
itself rapidly, and descended quick ; and the valley did not 
preserve the open character of the other side, appearing below 
to form a canon. We tlierefore climbed one of the peaks on 
the right, leaving our horses below ; but we were so much 
shut up that we did not obtain an extensive view, and what we 
saw was not very satisfactory, and awakened considerable 
doubt. The valley of the stream pursued a northwesterly di- 
rection, appearing below to turn sliarply to the right, beyond 
which further view was cut oiY. It was, nevertheless, resolved 
to continue our road the next day down this valley, which we 
trusted still would prove that of the middle stream between the 
two great rivers. Towards the summit of this peak, the fields 
of snow were four or five feet deep on the northern side ; and 
wc saw several large hares, which had on their winter color, 
being white as the snow around them. 

The winter day is short in the mountains, the sun having 
27* 



318 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

but a small space of sky to travel over in the visible part 
above our horizon ; and the moment his rays are gone, the 
air is keenly cold. The interest of our work had detained 
us long, and it was after nightfall when we reached the camp. 

28th. — To-day we went through the pass with all the camp, 
and, after a hard day's journey of twelve miles, encamped on 
a high point where the snow had been blown off, and the e\- 
posed grass afforded a scanty pasture for the animals. Snow 
and broken country together made our traveling difficult ; we 
were often compelled to make large circuits, and ascend the 
highest and most e.xposed ridges, in order to avoid snow, which 
in other places was banked up to a great depth. 

During the day a few Indians were seen circling around us 
on snow-shoes, and skimming along like birds ; but we could 
not bring them within speaking distance. Godey, who was a 
little distance from the camp, had sat down to tie his moccasins, 
when he heard a low whistle near, and, looking up, saw two 
Indians half hiding behind a rock about forty yards distant ; 
they would not allow him to approach, but breaking into a 
laugh, skimmed off over the snow, seeming to have no idea of 
the power of firearms, and thinking themselves perfectly safe 
when beyond arm's lengtli. 

To-night we did not succeed in getting the howitzer into 
camp. This was the most laborious day we had yet passed 
through, the steep ascents and deep snow exhausting both men 
and animals. Our single chronometer had stopped during the 
day, and its error in time occasioned the loss of an eclipse of a 
satellite this evening. It had not preserved the rate with 
which wc started from the Dalles, and this will account for the 
absence of longitudes along this interval of our journey. 

'2'Jth. — From this height we could see, at a considerable dis- 
tance below, yellow spots in the valley, which indicated that 
there was not much snow. One of these places we expected 
to reach to-night ; and some time being required to bring up the 
gun, I went ahead with Mr. Fitzpatrick and a few men, leav- 
ing the camp to follow, in charge of Mr. Preuss. We followed 
a trail down a hollow where the Indians had descended, the 
snow being so deep that we never came near the ground ; but 



1944.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 319 

this only made our descent the easier, and, when we reached 
a little affluent to the river, at the bottom, we suddenly found 
ourselves in presence of eight or ten Indians. They seemed 
to be watching our motions, and, like the others, at first were 
indisposed to let us approach, ranging themselves like birds on 
a fallen log, on the hill-side above our heads, where, being out 
of our reach, they thought themselves safe. Our friendly de- 
meanor reconciled them, and, when we got near enough, they 
immediately stretched out to us handfuls of pine-nuts, which 
seemed an exercise of hospitality. We made them a few 
presents, and, telling us that their village was a few miles be- 
low, they went on to let their people know what we were. The 
pi'incipal stream still running through an impracticable canon, 
we ascended a very steep hill, which proved afterwards the 
last and fatal obstacle to our little howitzer, which was finally 
abandoned at this place. We passed through a small meadow 
a few miles below, crossing the river, which depth, swift cur- 
rent, and rock, made it difficult to ford ; and, after a few more 
miles of very difficult trail, issued into a larger prairie bottom, 
at the farther end of which we encamped, in a position ren- 
dered strong by rocks and trees. The lower parts of the moun- 
tain were covered with the nut-pine. Several Indians appeared 
on the hill-side, reconnoitring the camp, and were induced to 
come in ; others came in during the afternoon ; and in the 
evening we held a council. The Indians immediately made it 
clear that the waters on which we were also belonged to the 
Great Basin, in the edge of which we had been since the 17th 
of December ; and it became evident that we had still the great 
ridge on the left to cross before we could reach the Pacific 
waters. 

We explained to the Indians that we were endeavoring to 
find a passage across the mountains into the country of the 
whites, whom we were going to see ,• and told them thai we 
wished them to bring us a guide, to whom we would give 
presents of scarlet cloth, and other articles, which were shown 
to them. They looked at the reward we offered, and conferred 
with each other, but pointed to the snow on the mountain, and 
drew their hands across their necks, and raised them above 



320 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

their heads, to show the depth ; and signified that it was impos- 
sible for us to get through. They made signs that we must go 
to the southward, over a pass through a lower range, which 
they pointed out : there, they said, at the end of one day's 
travel, we would find people who lived near a pass in the great 
mountain ; and to that point they engaged to furnish us a guide. 
They appeared to have a confused idea, from report, of whites 
who lived on the other side of the mountain ; and once, they 
told us, about two years ago, a party of twelve men like our- 
selves had ascended their river, and crossed to the other waters. 
They pointed out to us where they had crossed ; but then, they 
said, it was summer time ; but now it would be impossible. I 
believe tliat this was a party led by Mr. Chiles, one of the only 
two men whom I know to have passed through the California 
mountains from the interior of the Basin — Walker being the 
other; and both were engaged upwards of twenty days, in the 
summer time, in getting over. Chiles's destination was the 
bay of San Francisco, to which he descended by the Stanislaus 
river; luid Walker subsequently informed me that, like my- 
self, descending to the southward on a more eastern line, day 
after day he was searching for the Buenaventura, thinking that 
he had found it with every new stream, until, like me, he aban- 
doned all idea of its existence, and, turning abruptly to the 
right, cmssed the great chain. These were both western men, 
animated with the spirit of exploratory enterprise which char- 
acterizes that people. 

The Indians l)rought in during the evening an abundant sup- 
ply of pine-nuts, which we traded from them. Wiien roasted, 
their pleasant flavor made tiiem an agreeable addition to our 
now scanty store of provisions, which were reduced to n very 
low ebb. ( )ur principal stock was in peas, which it is not neces- 
sary to say contain scarcely any nutriment. We had still a 
little flour left, some cofl'ee, and a rjuantity of sugar, wiiieh I 
reserved as a defence against starvation. 

The Indians informed us that at certain seasons they have 
fisii in their waters, which wc supposed to be salmon-trout: for 
thf remainder of tlie year tiiey live upon the pine-nuts, which 
form their great winter subsistence — a |)orlion being always at 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 321 

hand, shut up in the natural storehouse of the cones. At 
present, they were presented to us as a whole people living 
upon this simple vegetable. 

The otiier division of the party did not come in to-night, but 
encamped in the upper meadow, and arrived the next morning. 
They had not succeeded in getting the howitzer beyond the 
place mentioned, and where it had been left by Mr. Preuss, in 
obedience to my orders ; and, in anticipation of the snow-banks 
and snow-fields still ahead, foreseeing the inevitable detention 
to whicli it would subject us, I reluctantly determined to leave 
it there for the time. It was of the kind invented by the French 
for the mountain part of their war in Algiers ; and the distance 
it had come with us proved how well it was adapted to its pur- 
pose. We left it, to the great sorrow of the whole party, who 
were grieved to part with a companion which had made the 
whole distance from St. Louis, and commanded respect for us 
on some critical occasions, and whicii might be needed for the 
same purpose again. 

30tli. — Our guide, who was a young man, joined us this 
morning ; and, leaving our encampment late in the day, we 
descended the river, which immediately opened out into a 
broad valley, furnishing good traveling ground. In a short 
distance we passed the village, a collection of straw huts; and 
a few miles below, the guide pointed out the place where the 
whites had been encamped, before they entered the mountain. 
With our late start we made but ten miles, and encamped on 
the low river-bottom, where there was no snow, but a great deal 
of ice ; and we cut piles of long grass to lay under our blan- 
kets, and fires were made of large dry willows, groves of 
which wooded tlie stream. The river took here a northeasterly 
direction, and througii a spur from the mountains on the left 
was the gap where we were to pass the next day. 

31st. — We took our way over a gently rising ground, the 
dividing ridge being tolersibly low ; and traveling easily along 
a broad trail, in twelve or fourteen miles reached the upper 
part of the pass, when it began to snow thickly, with very cold 
weather. The Indians had only the usual scanty covering, 
and appeared to suffer greatly from the cold. All left us, ex- 



322 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Ja\. 

cepl our guide. Half hiddon by the storm, tlic mountains 
looked dreary ; and, as night began to approach, the guide 
showed great reluctance to go forward. I placed him between 
two rifles, for the way began to be diflicult. Traveling a little 
farther, we struck a ravine, which the Indian said would con- 
duct us to the river ; and as the poor fellow suffered greatly, 
shivering in the snow which fell upon his naked skin, I would 
not detain him any longer ; and he ran off to the mountain, 
where he said was a hut near by. He had kept the blue and 
scarlet cloth I had given him tightly rolled up, preferring rather 
to endure the cold than to get them wet. In the course of the 
afterno<.in, one of the men had his foot frostbitten ; and about 
dark we had the satisfaction to reach the bottoms of a stream 
timbered with large trees, among which we found a sheltered 
camp, with an abundance of such grass as the season afforded 
for the animals. We saw before us, in descending from the 
pass, a great continuous range, along which stretched the 
valley of the river ; the lower parts steep, and dark with pines, 
while above it was hidden in clouds of snow. This we felt 
instantly satisfied was the central ridge of the Sierra Nevada, 
the great California mountain, which only now intervened be- 
tween us an<l the waters of the bay. We had made a forced 
march of 26 miles, and three mules had given out on the 
road. Up to this point, with the exception of two stolen by 
Indians, we had lost none of the horses which had been brought 
from the Columbia river, and a number of these were still 
strong and in tolerably good order. We had now 67 animals 
in the band. 

We had scarcely lighted our fires, when the camp was 
crowded with nearly naked Indians ; some of them were fur- 
nished with long nets in addition to bows, and appeared to 
have been out on the sage hills to hunt rai)bits. These nets 
were perhaps 30 to 40 feet long, kept upright in the ground 
by slight sticks at intervals, and were made from a kind of 
wild hemp, very much resembling in manufacture those com- 
mon among the Indians of the Sacramento valley. They 
came among us without any tear, and scattered themselves 
about the fires, mainly cvjcupied in gratifying their astoiiish- 





t ... ,iS 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 323 

ment. I was struck by the singular appearance of a row of 
about a dozen, who were sitting on their haunches perched on 
a log near one of the fires, with their quick sharp eyes follow- 
ing every nnotion. 

We gathered together a few of the most intelligent of the 
Indians, and held this evening an interesting council. I ex- 
plained to them my intentions. I told them that we had come 
from a very far country, having been traveling now nearly a 
year, and that we were desirous simply to go across the moun- 
tain into the country of the other whites. There were two 
who appeared particularly intelligent — one, a somewhat old 
man. He told me that, before the snows fell, it was six sleeps 
to the place where the whites lived, but- that now it was im- 
possible to cross the mountain on account of the deep snow ; 
and showing us, as the others had done, that it was over our 
heads, he urged us strongly to follow the course of the river, 
which he said would conduct us to a lake in which there were 
many large fish. There, he said, were many people ; there 
was no snow on the ground ; and we might remain there until 
the spring. From their descriptions, we were enabled to 
judge that we had encamped on the upper water of the Salmon 
Trout river. It is hardly necessary to say that our communi- 
cation was only by signs, as we understood nothing of their 
language ; but they spoke, notwithstanding, rapidly and ve- 
hemently, explaining what they considered the folly of our 
intentions, and urging us to go down to the lake. Tah-ve, a 
word signifying snow, we very soon learned to know, from its 
frequent repetition. I told him that the men and the horses 
were strong, that we would break a road through the snow ; 
and spreading before him our bales of scarlet cloth, and trin- 
kets, showed him what we would give for a guide. It was 
necessary to obtain one, if possible ; for I had determined here 
to attempt the passage of the mountain. Pulling a bunch of 
grass from the ground, after a short discussion among them- 
selves, the old man made us comprehend, that if we could 
break through the snow, at the end of three days we would 
come down upon grass, which he showed us would be about 
six inches high, and where the ground was entirely free. So 



324 cAi'T. Fremont's narrative. [Jan. 

far, he said, he had been in hunting for elk ; but beyond that 
(and he closed his eyes) he had seen nothing ; but there was 
one among them who had been to the whites, and, going out of 
the lodge, he returned with a young man of very intelligent 
appearance. Here, said he, is a young man who has seen the 
whites with his own eyes ; and he swore, first by the sky, and 
then by the ground, that what he said was true. With a large 
present of goods, we prevailed upon this young man to be our 
guide, and he acquired among us the name of Melo — a word 
signifying friend, which they used very frequently. He was 
thinly clad, and nearly barefoot ; his moccasins being about 
worn out. We gave him skins to make a new pair, and to enable 
him to perform his undertaking to us. The Indians remained 
in the camp during the night, and we kept the guide and two 
others to sleep in the lodge with us — Carson lying across the 
door, and having made them comprehend the use of our fire- 
arms. 



FEBRU/VRY. 



1st. — The snow, which had intermitted in the evening, com- 
menced falling again in the course of the night, and it snowed 
steadily all day. In the morning I acquainted the men with 
my decision, and explained to them that necessity required us 
to make a great cflTort to clear the mountains. I reminded 
them of the beautiful valley of the Sacramento, with which 
they were familiar from the descriptions of Carson, who had 
been there some fifteen years ago, and who, in our late priva- 
tions, had delighted us in speaking of its rich pastures and 
abounding game, and drew a vivid contrast between its sum- 
mer climate, less than a hundred miles distant, and tiie falling 
snow around us. I informed them (and long experience had 
given them confidence in my observations and good instru- 
ment^) that almost directly west, and only about 70 miles dis- 
tant, was the great farming establishment of Captain Sutler — • 
a gentleman who had I'urmerly lived in Missouri, and, emi- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 325 

grating to this country, had become the possessor of a princi- 
pality. I assured them that, from the heights of the mountain 
before us, we should doubtless see the valley of the Sacramento 
river, and with one effort place ourselves again in the midst of 
plenty. The people received this decision with the cheerful 
obedience which had always characterized them, and the day 
was immediately devoted to the preparations necessary to ena- 
ble us to carry it into effect. Leggins, moccasins,* clothing — 
all were put into the best state to resist the cold. Our guide 
was not neglected. Extremity of suffering might make him 
desert ; we therefore did the best we could for him. Leggins, 
moccasins, some articles of clothing, and a large green blan- 
ket, in addition to the blue and scarlet cloth, were lavished 
upon him, and to his great and evident contentment. He ar- 
rayed himself in all his colors, and, clad in green, blue, and 
scarlet, he made a gay-looking Indian ; and, with his various 
presents, was probably richer and better clothed than any of 
his tribe had ever been before. 

I have already said that our provisions were very low ; we 
had neither tallow nor grease of any kind remaining, and the 
want of salt became one of our greatest privations. The poor 
dog which had been found in the Bear River valley, and which 
had been a compagnon de voyage ever since, had now become 
fat, and the mess to which it belonged, requested permission to 
kill it. Leave was granted. Spread out on the snow, the 
meat looked very good ; and it made a strengthening meal 
for the greater part of the camp. Indians brought in two 
or three rabbits during the day, which were purchased from 
them. 

The river was 40 to 70 feet wide, and now entirely frozen 
over. It was wooded with large Cottonwood, willow, and grain 
de bmitf. By observation, the latitude of this encampment was 
38° '6T 18"^ 

2d. — It had ceased snowing, and this morning the lower air 
was clear and frosty ; and six or seven thousand feet above, 
the peaks of the Sierra now and then appeared among the 
rolling clouds, which were rapidly dispersing before the sun. 
Our Indian shook his head as he pointed to the icy pinnacles, 

23 



326 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Feb. 

shcxjting high up into the sky, and seeming ahnost immediately 
above us. Crossing the river on the ice, and leaving it imme- 
diately, we commenced the ascent of the mountain along the 
valley of a tributary stream. The people were unusually si- 
lent, for every man knew that our enterprise was hazardous, 
and the issue doubtful. 

The snow deepened rapidly, and it soon became necessary 
to break a road. For this service, a party of ten was formed, 
mounted on the strongest horses, each man in succession open- 
ing the road on foot, or on horseback, until himself and his 
horse became fatigued, when he stepped aside, and, the re- 
maining number passing ahead, he took his station in the rear. 
Leaving this stream, and pursuing a very direct course, we 
passed over an intervening ridge to the river we had left. On 
the way we passed two low huts entirely covered with snow, 
which might very easily have escaped observation. A family 
was living in each ; and the only trail I saw in the neighbor- 
hood was from the door-hole to a nut-pine tree near, which 
supplied them with food and fuel. We found two similar huts 
on the creek where we next arrived; and, traveling a little 
higher up, encamped on its banks in about four feet depth of 
snow. Carson found near, an open hill-side, where the wind 
and the sun had melted the snow, leaving exposed sufficient 
bunch-grass for the animals to-niglit. 

The nut-pines were now giving way to heavy timber, and 
there were some immense pines on the bottom, around the 
roots of which the sun had melted away the snow ; and here 
we made our camp and built huge tires. To-day we had 
traveled 16 miles, and our elevation above the sea was 0,760 
feet. 

3d. — Turning our faces directly towards the main chain, wo 
ascended an open hollow along a small tributary to the river, 
which, accDniing to the Indians, issues from a mountain to the 
south. The snow was so deep in the hollow, that we were 
obliged to travel along the steep hill-sides, and over spurs, 
where the wind and sun had in places lessened the snow, and 
where the grass, \vlii(;h appeared to bo in good quality along 
the sides of the n)ountains, was exposed. We opened our road 



1844.] CAPT. fkemont's narrative. 327 

in the same way as yesterday, but made only seven miles, and 
encamped by some springs at the foot of a high and steep hill, 
by which the hollow ascended to another basin in the moun- 
tain. The little stream below was entirely buried in snow. 
The springs were shaded by the boughs of a lofty cedar, which 
here made its first appearance ; the usual height was 1*20 to 
130 feet, and one that was measured near by was six feet in 
diameter. 

There being no grass exposed here, the horses were sent 
back to that which we had seen a few miles below. We oc- 
cupied the remainder of the day in beating down a road to the 
foot of the hill, a mile or two distant; the snow being beaten 
down when moist, in the warm part of the day, and then hard 
frozen at night, made a foundation that would bear the weight 
of the animals next morning. During the day several Indians 
joined us on snow-shoes. These were made of a circular hoop, 
about a foot in diameter, the interior space being filled with an 
open network of bark. 

4th. — I went ahead early with two or three men, each with a 
led horse to break the road. We were obliged to abandon the 
hollow entirely, and work along the mountain-side, which was 
very steep, and the snow covered with an icy crust. We cut 
a fooling as we advanced, and trampled a road through for the 
animals ; but occasionally one plunged outside the trail, and 
slided along the field to the bottom, a hundred yards below. 
Late in the day we reached another bench in the hollow, 
where, in summer, the stream passed over a small precipice. 
Here was a short distance of dividing ground between the two 
ridges, and beyond an open basin, some ten miles across, whose 
bottom presented a field of snow. At the further or western 
side rose the middle crest of the mountain, a dark-lookin^ ridjje 
of volcanic rock. 

The summit line presented a range of naked peaks, appa- 
rently destitute of snow and vegetation ; but below, the face 
of the whole country was covered with timber of extraordinary 
size. 

Towards a pass which the guide indicated here, we attempted 
in the afternoon to force a road ; but after a laborious plunging 



328 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Feb. 

through two or three hundVed yards, our best horses gave out, 
entirely refusing to make any further effort, and, for tlie time, 
we were brought to a stand. The guide informed us that we 
were entering the deep snow, and here began the difficulties 
of the mountain ; and to him, and almost to all, our enterprise 
seemed hopeless. I returned a short distance back, to the 
break in the hollow, where I met Mr. Fitzpatrick. 

The camp had been occupied all the day in endeavoring to 
ascend the hill, but only the best horses had succeeded ; the 
animals, generally, not having sufficient strength to bring 
themselves up without the packs; and all the line of road be- 
tween this and the springs was strewed with camp-stores and 
equipage, and horses floundering in snow. I therefore im- 
mediately encamped on the ground with my own mess, which 
was in advance, and directed Mr. Fitzpatrick to encamp at 
the springs, and send all the animals, in charge of Tabeau, 
with a strong guard, back to the place where they had been 
pastured the night before. Here was a small spot of level 
ground, protected on one side by the mountain, and on the other 
sheltered by a little ridge of rock. It was an open grove of 
pines, which assimilated in size to the grandeur of the moun- 
tain, being frequently six feet in diameter. 

To-night we had no shelter, but we made a large fire around 
the trunk of one of the huge pines ; and covering the snow 
with small boughs, on which we spread our blankets, soon 
made ourselves comfortable. The night was very bright and 
clear, though the thermometer was only at 10°. A strong 
wind, which sprang up at sundown, made it inten.sely cold ; 
and this was one of the bitterest nights during the journey. 

Two Indians joined our party here ; and one of then), an 
old man, immediately began to harangue us, saying that our- 
selves and animals would perish in the snow; and that if we 
would go back, he would show us another and a better way 
across the mountain. He spoke in a very loud voice, and there 
was a singular repetition of phrases and arrangement of words, 
which rendered his speech striking and not unmusical. 

We had now begun to understand some words, and, with the 
aid of signs, easily comprehended the old man's simple ideas. 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's naurative. 329 

" Rock upon rock — rock upon rock — snow upon snow," said 
he ; " even if you get over the snow, you will not -be able to 
get down from the mountains." He made us the sign of 
precipices, and showed us how the feet of the horses would 
slip, and throw them off from the narrow trails that led along 
their sides. Our Chinook, who comprehended even more 
readily than ourselves, and believed our situation hopeless, 
covered his head with his blanket, and began to weep and la- 
ment. " I wanted to see the whites," said he ; "I came away 
from my own people to see the whites, and I wouldn't care to 
die among them, but here" — and he looked around into the 
cold night and gloomy forest, and, drawing his blanket over 
his head, began again to lament. 

Seated around the tree, the fire illuminating the rocks and 
the tall bolls of the pines round about, and the old Indian 
haranguing, we presented a group of very serious faces. 

5th. — The night had been too cold to sleep, and we were up 
very early. Our guide was standing by the fire with all his 
finery on ; and seeing him shiver in the cold, I threw on 
his shoulders one of my blankets. We missed him a few 
minutes afterwards, and never saw him again. He had desert- 
ed. His bad faith and treachery were in perfect keeping with 
the estimate of Indian character, which a long intercourse with 
this people had gradually forced upon my mind. 

While a portion of the camp were occupied in bringing up 
the baggage to this point, the remainder were busied in making 
sledges and snow-shoes. I had determined to explore the 
mountain ahead, and the sledges were to be used in transport- 
ing the baggage. 

The mountains here consisted wholly of a white micaceous 
granite. The day was perfectly clear, and, while the sun was 
in the sky, warm and pleasant. 

By observation our latitude was 38° 42' 26'''; and elevation 
by the boiling point, 7,400 feet. 

6th. — Accompanied by Mr. Fitzpatrick, I set out to-day 
with a reconnoitring party on snow-shoes. We marched all 
in single file, trampling the snow as heavily as we could. 
Crossing the open basin, in a march of about ten miles we 



%• 



330 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Fee. 

reached the top of one of the peaks, to the left of the pass indicated 
by our guide. Far below us, dimmed by the distance, was a 
large snowlcss valley, bounded on the western side, at the dis- 
tance of about a hundred miles, by a low range of mountains, 
which Carson recognised with delight as the mountains border- 
ing the coast. " There," said he, "is the little mountain — it is 
fifteen years since I saw it ; but I am just as sure as if I had 
seen it yesterday." Between us, then, and this low coast range, 
was the valley of the Sacramento ; and no one who had not 
accompanied us through the incidents of our life for the last 
few months could realize the delight with which at last we 
looked down upon it. At the distance of apparently 30 miles 
beyond us were distinguished spots of prairie ; and a dark line 
which could be traced with the glass, was imagined to be the 
course of the river ; but we were evidently at a great height 
above the valley, and between us and the plains extended miles 
of snowy fields and broken ridges of pine-covered mountains. 

It was late in the day when we turned towards the camp; 
and it grew rapidly cold as it drew towards night. One of the 
men became fixtigued, and his feet began to freeze, and build- 
ing a fire in the trunk of a dry old cedar, Mr. Fitzpatrick re- 
mained with liim until his clothes could be dried, and he was 
in a condition to come on. After a day's march of 20 miles, 
we straggled into the camp one after another, at nightfall ; the 
greater number excessively fatigued, only two of the party 
having ever traveled on snow-shoes before. 

All our energies are now directed to getting our animals 
across the snow ; and it was supposed that after all the bag- 
gage had been drawn with the sleighs over the trail we had 
made, it would be sufliciently hard to bear our animals. At 
several places between this p^int and the ridge, we had discov- 
ered some grassy spots, where the wind and sun had dis- 
persed the snow from the sides of the liiils, and these were to 
form resting-places to support the animals for a night in their 
passage across. On our way across wje had set on fire several 
broken stumps, and dried trees, to melt holes in the snow for 
the camps. Its grnrTal depth was fivi- feet ; but we passed over 
places where it was 'JO feet di ep, as shown by the trees. 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 331 

With one party drawing sleighs loaded with baggage, I ad- 
vanced to-day about four miles along the trail, and encamped 
at the first grassy spot, where we expected to brhig our horses. 
Mr. Fitzpatrick, with another party, remained beiiind, to form 
an intermediate station between us and the animals. 

8th. — The night has, been extremely cold; but perfectly 
still, and beautifully clear. Before the sun appeared this 
morning, the thermometer was 3° below zero ; 1° higher, when 
his rays struck the lofty peaks ; and 0° when they reached 
our camp. 

Scenery and weather, combined, must render these moun- 
tains beautiful in summer ; the purity and deep-blue color of 
the sky are singularly beautiful ; the days are sunny and 
bright, and even warm in the noon hours ; and if we could be 
free from the many anxieties that oppress us, even now we 
would be delighted here ; but our provisions are getting fear- 
fully scant. Sleighs arrived wiflh baggage about ten o'clock ; 
and leaving a portion of it here, we continued on for a mile 
and a half, and encamped at the foot of a long hill on this side 
of the open bottom. 

Bernier and Godey, who yesterday morning had been sent 
to ascend a higher peak, got in, hungry and fatigued. They 
confirmed what we had already seen. Two other sleighs ar- 
rived in the afternoon ; and the men being fatigued, I gave 
them all tea and sugar. Snow clouds began to rise in the 
S.S.W. ; and, apprehensive of a storm, which would destroy 
our road, I sent the people back to Mr. Fitzpatrick, with di- 
rections to send for the animals in the morning. With me re- 
mained Mr. Preuss, Mr. Talbot, and Carson, with Jacob. 

Elevation of the camp, by the boiling point, is 7,920 feet. 

9th. — During the night the weather changed, the wind ris- 
ing to a gale, and commencing to snow before daylight ; be- 
fore morning the trail was covered. We remained quiet in 
camp all day, in the course of which the weather improved. 
Four sleighs arrived towards evening, with the bedding of the 
men. We suffer much from the want of salt ; and all the 
men are becoming weak from insufficient food. 

10th. — Taplin was sent back with a few men to assist Mr. 



332 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Feb. 

Fitzpatrick ; and continuing on with three sleighs carrying a 
part of the baggage, we had the satisfaction to encamp \Viihin 
two and a lialf miles of the head of the hollow, and at the foot 
% of the last mountain ridge. Here two large trees had been set 
on fire, and in the holes, where the snow had been melted 
away> we found a comfortable camp. 

The wind kept the air filled with snow during the day ; the 
sky was very dark in the southwest, though elsewhere very- 
clear. The forest here has a noble appearance ; and tall cedar 
is abundant; its greatest height being 130 feet, and circum- 
ference 20, three or four feet above the ground ; and here I 
see for the first time the white pine, of which there are some 
magnificent trees. Hemlock spruce is among the timber, oc- 
casionally as large as eight feet in diameter, four feet above 
the ground ; but, in ascending, it tapers rapidly to less than 
one foot at the height of eighty feet. I have not seen any 
higher than 130 feet, and the slight upper part is frequently 
broken off by the wind. The white spruce is frequent ; and 
the red pine [pinus Colorado of the Mexicans) which constitutes 
the beautiful forest along the banks of the Sierra Nevada to 
the northward, is here the principal tree, not attaining a 
greater height than 140 feet, though with sometimes a diame- 
ter of 10. Most of these trees appeared to ditTer slightly from 
those of the same kind on the other side of the continent. 

The elevation of the camp by the boiling point, is 8,050 feet. 
We are now 1,000 feet above the level of the South Pass in 
the Rocky mountains ; and still we are not done ascending. 
The top of a fiat ridge near was bare of snow, and very well 
sprinkled with bunch-grass, sufficient to pasture the animals 
two or three days ; and this was to be their main point of sup- 
port. This ridge is composed of a compact trap, or basalt of 
a columnar structure ; over the surface are scattered large 
boulders of porous trap. The hills are in many places en- 
tirely covered with small fragments of volcanic rock. 

Putting on our snow-shoes, we spent the afiernoon in ex- 
ploring a road ahead. The glare of the snow, combined with 
great fatigue, had rendered manv of the people nearly 
blind J but we were fortunate in having some black silk hand- 



1844.] CAPT. FK£3I0NT's NAUUATIVE. 333 

kerchiefs, which, worn as veils, very much relieved the 
eye. 

11th. — High wind continued, and our trail this morning was 
nearly invisible — here and there indicated by a little ridge of 
snow. Our situation became tiresome and dreary, requiring 
a" strong exercise of patience and resolution. 

In the evening I received a message from Mr. Fitzpatrick, 
acquainting me with the utter failure of his attempt to get our 
mules and horses over the snow — the half-hidden trail had 
proved entirely too slight to support them, and they had broken 
through, and were plunging about or lying half buried in 
snow. He was occupied in endeavoring to get them back to 
his camp ; and in the mean time sent to me for further instruc- 
tions. I wrote to him to send the animals immediately back 
to their old pastures ; and, after having made mauls and shovels, 
turn in all the strength of his party to open and beat a road 
through the snow, strengthening it with branches and boughs 
of the pines. 

12th. — We made mauls, and worked hard at our end of the 
road all day. The wind was high, but the sun bright, and the 
snow thawing. We worked down the face of the hill, to meet 
the people at the other end. Towards sundown it began to 
grow cold, and we shouldered our mauls and trudged back to 
camp. 

13th. — We continued to labor on the road ; and in the course 
of the day had the satisfaction to see the people working down 
the face of the opposite hill, about three miles distant. During 
the morning we had the pleasure of a visit from Mr. Fitzpat- 
rick, with the information that all was going on well. A party 
of Indians had passed on snow-shoes, who said they were going 
to the western side of the mountain after fish. This was an 
indication that the salmon were coming up the streams ; and 
we could hardly restrain our impatience as we thought of them, 
and worked with increased vigor. 

The meat train did not arrive this evening, and I gave 
Godey leave to kill our little dog, (Tlamath,) which ho })repared 
in Indian fashion ; scorching off the hair, and washing the 
skin with soap and snow, and then cutting it up into pieces^ 



334 CATT. fkemo.nt's narrative. [Feb. 

which were laid on the snow. Shortly afterwards, the sleigh 
arrived with a supply of horse-meat ; and we had to-night an 
extraordinary dinner — pea-soup, mule, and dog. 

14th. — The dividing ridge of the Sierra is in sight from this 
encampment. Accompanied by Mr. Preuss, I ascended to-day 
the highest peak to the right ; from which we had a beautiful 
view of a mountain lake at our feet, about fifteen miles in 
length, and so entirely surrounded by mountains that we could 
not discover an outlet. We had taken with us a glass ; but 
though we enjoyed an extended view, the valley was half hid- 
den in mist, as when we had seen it before. Snow could be 
distinguished on the higher parts of the coast mountains; east- 
ward, as far as the eye could extend, it ranged over a terrible 
mass of broken snowy mountains, fading off blue in the dis- 
tance. The rock composing the summit consists of a very 
coarse, dark, volcanic conglomerate ; the lower parts appeared 
to be of a slaty structure. The highest trees were a few scat- 
tering cedars and aspens. From the immediate foot of the 
peak, we were two hours reaching the summit, and one hour 
and a quarter in descending. The day had been very bright, 
still, and clear, and spring seems to be advancing rapidly. 
While the sun is in the sky, the snow melts rapidly, and gush- 
ing springs cover the face of the mountain in all the exposed 
places; but their surface freezes instantly with the disappear- 
ance of the sun. 

I obtained to-night some observations ; and the result from 
these, and others made during our stay, gives for the latitude 
38° 41' f)?'', longitude 120° 25' 57'', and rate of the chro- 
nometer 25.82". 

16th. — We had succeeded in getting our animals safely to 
the first grassy hill ; and this morning I started with Jacob on 
a reconnoitring expedition beyond the mountain. We traveled 
along the crests of narrow ridges, extending down from the 
mountain in the direction of the valley, from which the snow 
was fast melting away. On the open spots was tolerably good 
grass; and I judged we should succeed in getting the camp 
down by way of these. Towards sundown we discovered some 
icy spots in a deep hollow ; and, descending the mountain, we 



1S44.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 335 

encamped on the head-water of a little creek, where at last the 
water found its way to the Pacific. 

The night was clear and very long. We heard the cries of 
some wild animals, which had been attracted by our fire, and 
a flock of geese passed over during the night. Even these 
strange sounds had something pleasant to our senses in this 
region of silence and desolation. 

We started again early in the morning. The creek acquired 
a regular breadth of about 20 feet, and we soon began to hear 
the rushing of the water below the icy surface, over which we 
traveled to avoid the snow ; a few miles below we broke 
through, where the water was several feet deep, and halted to 
make a fire and dry our clothes. We continued a few miles 
farther, walking being very laborious without snow-shoes. 

I was now perfectly satisfied that we had struck the stream 
on which Mr. Sutler lived ; and, turning about, made a hard 
push, and reached the camp at dark. Here we had the pleas- 
ure to find all the remaining animals, 57 in number, safely 
arrived at the grassy hill near the camp ; and here, also, we 
were agreeably surprised with the sight of an abundance of salt. 
Some of the horse-guard had gone to a neighboring hut for pine 
nuts, and discovered unexpectedly a large cake of very white 
fine-grained salt, which the Indians told them they had brought 
from the other side of the mountain ; they used it to eat with 
their pine nuts, and readily sold it for goods. 

On the 19th, the people were occupied in making a road and 
bringing up the baggage ; and, on the afternoon of the ne.xt 
day, February 20, 1844, we encamped, with the animals and 
all the materiel of the camp, on the summit of the Pass in the 
dividing ridge, 1,000 miles by our traveled road from the 
Dalles to the Columbia. 

The people, who had not yet been to this point, climbed the 
neighboring peak to enjoy a look at the valley. 

The temperature of boiling water gave for the elevation of 
the encampment, 9,333 feet above the sea. 

This was 2,000 feet higher than the South Pass in the Rocky 
mountains, and several peaks in view rose several thousand 
feet still higher. Thus, at the extremity of the continent, and 



896 CAPT. FREiMONx's NARRATIVE. [FeB. 

near the coast, the phenomenon was seen of a range of moun- 
tains still higher than the great Rocky mountains themselves. 
This extraordinary fact accounts for the Great Basin, and 
shows that there must be a system of small lakes and rivers 
here scattered over a flat country, and which the extended 
and lofty range of the Sierra Nevada prevents from escaping 
to the Pacific ocean. Latitude 38° 44''; longitude 120° 28^ 

Thus the Pass in the Sierra Nevada, which so well deserves 
its name of Snowy mountain, is eleven degrees west and about 
four degrees south of the South Pass. 

21st. — We now considered ourselves victorious over the 
mountain ; having only the descent before us, and the valley 
under our eyes, we felt strong hope that we should force our 
way down. But this was a case in which the descent was not 
facile. Still deep fields of snow lay between them, and there 
was a large intervening space of rough-looking mountains, 
through which we had yet to wind our way. Carson roused 
me this morning with an early fire, and we were all up long 
before day, in order to pass the snow-fields before the sun 
should render the crust soft. We enjoyed this morning a 
scene at sunrise, which even here was unusually glorious and 
beautiful. Immediately above the eastern mountains was re- 
peated a cloud-formed mass of purple ranges, Ijordorcd with 
bright yellow gold ; the peaks shot up into a narrow line of 
crimson cloud, above which the air was filled with a greenish 
orange ; and over all was the singular beauty of the blue sky. 
Passing along a ridge which commanded the lake on our right, 
of which we began to discover an outlet through a chasm on 
the west, we passed over alternating open ground and hard- 
crusted snow-fields which supported the animals, and encamp- 
ed on the ridge, after a journey of six miles. The grass was 
better than we had yet seen, and we were encamped in a 
clump of trees 20 or .30 feet high, resembling white pine. With 
the exception of these small clumps, the ridges were bare ; 
and, where the snow found the support of the trees, the wind 
had blown it up into banks 10 or 15 feet high. It required 
iimch care to hunt out a practicable way, as the most open 
places frequently led to impassable banks. 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 337 

We had hard and doubtful hibor yet before us, as the snow- 
appeared to be heavier wheve the timber began further down, 
with few open spots. Ascending a height, we traced out the 
best line we could discover for the next day's march, and had 
at least the consolation to see that the mountain descended rap- 
idly. The day had been one of April — gusty, with a few oc- 
casional flakes of snow — which, in the afternoon, enveloped 
the upper mountain in clouds. We watched them anxiously, 
as now we dreaded a snow-storm. Shortly afterwards we 
heard the roll of thunder, and, looking towards the valley, 
found it enveloped in a thunder-storm. For us, as connected 
with the idea of summer, it had a singular charm, artd we 
watched its progress with excited feelings until nearly sunset, 
when the sky cleared off brightly, and we saw a shining line 
of water directing its coui'se towards another, a broader and 
larger sheet. We knew that these could be no other than the 
Sacramento and the Bay of San Francisco ; but, after our long 
wandering in rugged mountains, where so frequently we had 
met with disappointments, and where the crossing of every 
ridge displayed some unknown lake or river, we were yet al- 
most afraid to believe that we were at last to escape into the 
genial country of which we had heard so many glowing de- 
scriptions, and dreaded to find some vast interior lake, whose 
bitter waters would bring us disappointment. On the southern 
shore of what appeared to bo the bay could be traced the 
gleaming line where entered another large stream : and again 
the Buenaventura rose up in our minds. 

Carson had entered the valley along the southern side of the 
bay, and remembered perfectly to have crossed the mouth of <i 
very large stream, which they had been obliged to raft ; bur 
the country then was so entirely covered with water from snow 
and rain, that he had been able to form no correct impression 
of water-courses. 

We had the satisfaction to know that at least there wer. 
people below. Fires were Jit up in the valley just at night, 
appearing to be in answer to ours ; and these signs of life re- 
newed, in some measure, the gayety of the camp. They ap- 
peared so near, that we judged them to be among the timber 

29 



888 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Feb. 

of some of the neighboring ridges ; but, having thcni con- 
stantly in view day after day, and night after night, we after- 
wards found them to be fires tiiat had been kindled by the In- 
dians among the tulares, on the shore of the bay, 80 miles 
distant. 

Among the very few plants that appeared here, was the 
common blue flax. To-night a mule was killed for food. 

2'2d. — Our breakfast was over long before day. We took 
advantage of the coolness of the early morning to get over the 
snow, which to-day occurred in very deep banks among the 
timber ; but we searched out the coldest places, and the ani- 
mals passed successfully with th-nr loads over the hard crust. 
Now and tlien the delay of making a road occasioned much labor 
and loss of time. In the after part of the day, we saw before 
us a handsome grassy ridge point ; and, making a desperate 
push over a snow-field 10 to 15 feet deep, we happily succeed- 
ed in getting the camp across, and encamped on the ridge, 
after a march of tliree miles. We had again the prospect of 
a thunder-storm below, and to-night we killed another mule — 
now our only resource from starvation. 

We satisfied ourselves during the day that the lake had an 
outlet between two ranges on the right ; and with this, the 
creek on which I had encamped probably effected a junction 
below. Between these, we were descending. 

We continued to enjoy the same delightful weather ; the 
sky of the same beautiful blue, and such a sunset and sun- 
rise as on our Atlantic coast we could scarcely imagine. 
And here among the mountains, 9,000 feet above the sea, we 
have the deep-blue sky and sunny climate of Smyrna and 
Palermo, which a little map before me shows are in the same 
latitude. 

The elevation above the sea, by the boiling point, is 8,565 
feet. 

23d. — This was our most difficult day ; we were forced ofT 
the ridges by the quantity of snow among the timber, and 
obliged to take to the mountain sides, where occasionally rocks 
and a southern exposure alTorded us a chance to scramble 
along. But these were .steep, and slippery with snow and icej 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 339 

and the tough evergreens of the mountain impeded our way, 
tore our skins, and exhausted our patience. Some of us had 
the misfortune to wear moccasins with parjldche soles, so slip- 
pery that we could not keep our feet, and generally crawled 
across the snow-beds. Axes and mauls were necessary to-day, 
to make a road through the snow. Going ahead with Carson 
to reconnoitre the road, we reached in the afternoon the river 
which made the outlet of the lake. Carson sprang over, clear 
across a place where the stream was compressed among rocks, 
but the parjleche sole of my moccasin glanced from the icy 
rock, and precipitated me into the river. It was some few 
seconds before I could recover myself in the current, and 
Carson, thinking me hurt, jumped in after me, and we both 
had an icy bath. We tried to search awhile for my gun, which 
had been lost in the fall, but the cold drove us out ; and mak- 
ing a large fire on the bank, after we had partially dried our- 
selves we went back to meet the camp. We afterwards found 
that the gun had been slung under the ice which lined the 
banks of the creek. 

Using our old plan of breaking roads with alternate horses, 
we reached the creek in the evening, and encamped on a dry 
open place in the ravine. 

Another branch, which we had followed, here comes in on 
the left ; and from this point the mountain wall, on which 
we had traveled to-day, faces to the south along the right bank 
of the river, where the sun appears to have melted the snow ; 
but the opposite ridge is entirely covered. Here, among the 
pines, the hill-side produces but little grass — barely sufficient 
to keep life in the animals. We had the pleasure to be rained 
upon this afternoon ; and grass was now our greatest solicitude. 
Many of the men looked badly ; and some this evening were 
giving out. 

24th. — We rose at three in the morning, for an astronomical 
observation, and obtained for the place a lat. of 38° 46' 58'' ; 
long. 120° 34' 20". The sky was clear and pure, with a 
sharp wind from the northeast, and the thermometer 2° below 
the freezing point. 

We continued down the south face of the mountain : our road 



340 CAPT. Fremont's nabeative. [Feb. 

leading over dry ground, we were able to avoid the snow al- 
most entirely. In the course of the morning, we struck a foot- 
patli, which we were generally able to keep ; and the ground was 
soft to our animals' feet, being sandy or covered with mould. 
Green grass began to make its appearance, and occasionally 
we passed a hill scatteringly covered with it. The character 
of the forest continued the same ; and, among the trees, the 
pine with sharp leaves and very large cones was abundant, 
some of them being noble trees. We measured one that had 
10 feet diameter, though the height was not more than 130 
feet. All along, the river was a roaring torrent, its fall very 
great ; and, descending with a rapidity to which we had long 
been strangers, to our great pleasure oak-trees appeared on the 
ridge, and soon became very frequent ; on these I remarked 
great quantities of mistletoe. Rushes began to make their ap- 
pearance ; and at a small creek where they were abundant, 
one of the messes was left with the weakest horses, wliile we 
continued on. 

The oppasite mountain-side was very steep and continuous — 
unbroken by ravines, and covered with pines and snow ; wliile 
on the side we were traveling, innumerable rivulets poured 
down from the ridge. Continuing on, we hailed a moment at 
one of these rivulets, to admire some beautiful evergreen-trees, 
resembling live-oak, which shaded the little stream. They 
were forty to fifty feet high, and two in diameter, with a uni- 
form tufted top ; and the summer green of their beautiful 
foliage, with the singing birds, and the sweet summer wind 
which was whirling alwut the dry oak leaves, nearly intoxicated 
us with delight ; and we hurried on, filled with excitement, to 
escape entirely from the horrid region of inhospitable snow, to 
the perpetual spring of the Sacramento. 

When wo had traveled about ten miles, the valley opened a 
little to an oak and pine bottom, through which ran rivulets 
nlosdv b(^r(ltre(l with rushes, (in which our half-starved horses 
fell witii avidity ; and here we made our encampment. Here 
the roaring torrent has already become a river, and we had 
descended to an elevation of 3,864 feet. 

Along our road to-day the rock was a white granite, which 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 341 

appears to constitute the upper part of the mountains on both 
the eastern and western slopes ; while between, the central is 
a volcanic rock. 

Anothex horse was killed to-night, for food. 

2.Jth. — Believing that the difficulties of the road were passed, 
and leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick to follow slowly, as the condition 
of the animals required, I started ahead this morning with a 
party of eight, consisting of myself, Mr. Preuss and Mr. Tal- 
bot, Carson, Derosier, Towns, Proue, and Jacob. We took with 
us some of the best animals, and my intention was to proceed 
as rapidly as possible to the house of Mr. Sutter, and return 
to meet the party with a supply of provisions and fresh ani- 
mals. 

Continuing down the river, which pursued a very direct 
westerly course through a narrow valley, with only a very 
slight and narrow bottom-land, we made twelve miles, and en- 
camped at some old Indian huts, apparently a fishing-place on 
the river. The bottom was covered with trees of deciduous 
foliage, and overgrown with vines and rushes. On a bench of 
the hill near by, was a hill of fresh green grass, six inches 
long in some of the tufts which I had the curiosity to measure. 
The animals were driven here ; and I spent part of the after- 
noon sitting on a large rock among them, enjoying the pause- 
less rapidity with which they luxuriated on the unaccustomed 
food. 

The forest was imposing to-day in the magnificence of the 
trees; some of the pines, bearing large cones, were 10 feet in 
diameter. Cedars also abounded, and we measured one 28i 
feet in circumference, four feet from the ground. This noble 
tree seemed here to be in its proper soil and climate. We 
found it on both sides of the Sierra, but most abundant on the 
west. 

26th. — We continued to follow the stream, the mountains on 
either hand increasing in height as we descended, and shutting 
up the river narrowly in precipices, along which we had great 
difficulty to got our horses. 

It rained heavily during the afternoon, and we wore forced 
off the '-iver to the heights above ; whence we descended, at 

29* 



342 CAFT. FKEMONt's NARKATIVE. [FeB. 

night-fall, the point of a spur between the river and a fork of 
nearly equal size, coming in' from the right. Here we saw, on 
the lower hills, the first flowers in bloom, which occurred sud- 
denly, and in considerable quantity — one of them a species of 
gilia. 

The current in both streams (rather torrents than rivers) 
was broken by large boulders. It was late, and the animals 
fatigued ; and not succeeding to find a ford immediately, we 
encamped, although the hill-side allbrded but a few stray 
bunches of grass, and the horses, standing about in the rain, 
looked very miserable. 

27th. — We succeeded in fording the stream, and made a 
trail by which we crossed the point of the opposite hill, which, 
on the southern exposure, was prettily covered with green 
grass, and we halted a mile from our last encampment. The 
river was only about 60 feet wide, but rapid, and occasionally 
deep, foaming among boulders, and the water beautifully clear. 
We encamped on tlie hill-slope, as there was no bottom level, 
and tlie opposite ridge is continuous, affording no streams. 

We had with us a large kettle ; and a mule being killed 
here, his head was boiled in it for several hours, and made a 
passable soup for famished people. 

Below, precipices on the river forced us to the heights, whicii 
we ascended by a steep spur 2,000 feet high. My favorite 
horse, Proveau, had become very weak, and was scarcely able 
to bring himself to the top. Traveling here was good, except 
in crossing the ravines, which were narrow, steep, and frequent. 
We caught a glimpse of a deer, the first animal we had seen ; 
but did not succeed in approacliing him. Proveau could not 
keep up, and I left Jacob to bring him on, being obliged to 
press forward with the party, as there was no grass in the 
forest. We grew very anxious as the day advanced and no 
grass appeared, for the lives of our animals depended on find- 
ing it to-night. They were in just such a condition that grass 
and repose for the night enabled them to get on the next day. 
Every hour we had been expecting to see open out before us 
the valley, which, from the mountain above, seemed almost at 
our feet. A new and singular shrub, which had made its ap- 



1844.] CAPT. FKEMO.NT S IVARKATIVE, 343 

pearance since crossing tlie mountain, was very frequent to- 
day. It branched out near the ground, forming a clump eight 
to ten feet high, with pale-green leaves, of an oval form ; and 
the body and branches had a naked appearance, as if stripped 
of the bark, which is very smooth and thin, of a chocolate 
color, contrasting well with the pale green of the leaves. The 
day was nearly gone ; we had made a hard day's march, and 
found no grass. Towns became light-headed, wandering off 
into the woods without knowing M'here he was going, and Jacob 
brought him back. 

Near night-fall we descended into the steep ravine of a hand- 
some creek 30 feet wide, and I was engaged in getting the 
horses up the opposite hill, when I heard a shout from Carson, 
who had gone ahead a few hundred yards — " Life yet," said 
he, as he came up, " life yet ; I have found a hill-side sprinkled 
with grass enough for the night." We drove along our horses, 
and encamped at the place about dark, and there was just room 
enough to make a place for slielter on the edge of the stream. 
Three horses were lost to-day — Proveau ; a fine young horse 
from the Columbia, belonging to Charles Towns ; and another 
Indian horse, which carried our cooking utensils. The two 
former gave out, and the latter strayed off into the woods as 
we reached the camp. 

29th. — We lay shut up in the narrow ravine, and gave the 
animals a necessary day ; and men were sent back after the 
otiiers. Derosier volunteered to bring up Proveau, to whom 
he knew I was greatly attached, as he had been my favorite 
horse on both expeditions. Carson and I climbed one of the 
nearest mountains ; the forest land still extended ahead, and 
the valley appeared as far as ever. The pack-horse was found 
near the camp ; but Derosier did not get in. 



MARCH. 

1st. — Derosier did not get in during the night, and leaving 
him to follow, as no grass remained here, we continued on over 



344 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [March, 

the uplands, crossing many small streams, and camped again 
on the river, liuving made six miles. Here we found the hill- 
side covered (although lightly) with fresh green grass ; and 
from this time forward we found it always improving and abun- 
dant. 

We made a pleasant camp on the river hill, where were 
some beautiful specimens of the chocolate-colored shrub, which 
we're a foot in diameter near the ground, and fifteen to twenty 
feet high. The opposite ridge runs continuously along, un- 
broken by streams. We are rapidly descending into the spring, 
and we are leaving our snowy region far behind ; every 
thing is getting green ; butterflies are swarming ; numerous 
bugs are creeping out, wakened from their winter's sleep ; 
and the forest flowers are comin" into bloom. Among those 
which appeared most numerously to-day was dodecatheon den- 
tat u 711. 

We began to be uneasy at Derosier's absence, fearing he 
might have been bewildered in the woods. Charles Towns, 
who had not yet recovered his mind, went to swim in the 
river, as if it were summer, and the stream placid, when it 
was a cold mountain torrent foaming among the rocks. We 
were happy to see Derosier appear in the evening. He came 
in, and, sitting down by the fire, began to tell us where he 
had been. He imagined he had been gone several days, and 
thought we were still at the camp where he had left us ; and 
we were pained to see that his mind was deranged. It ap- 
peared that he had been lost in the mountain, arid hunger and 
fatigue, joined to weakness of body and fear of perishing in 
the mountains, had crazocWiim. The times were severe when 
stout men lost their minds from extremity of suffering — when 
horses died — and when mules and horses, ready to die of starv- 
ation, were killed for food. Yet there was no murmuring or 
hesitation. 

A short distance below our encampment the river moun- 
tains terminated in precipices, and, after a fatiguing march of 
only a few miles, we encamped on a bench where there were 
springs, and an abimdance of the freshest grass. In the mean 
time, Mr. Preuss continued on down the river, and, unaware 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 345 

that we had encamped so early in the day, was lost. When 
night arrived, and he did not come in, we began to understand 
what had liappened to him ; but it was too late to make any 
search. 

3d. — We followed Mr. Preuss' trail for a considerable dis- 
tance along the river, until we reached a place where he had 
descended to the stream below and encamped. Here we 
shouted and fired guns, but received no answer ; and we con- 
cluded that he had pushed on down the stream. I determined 
to keep out from the river, along which it was nearly imprac- 
ticable to travel with animals, until it should form a valley. 
At every step the country improved in beauty ; the pines 
were rapidly disappearing, and oaks became the principal 
trees of th(? forest. Among these, the prevailing tree was 
the evergreen oak, (which, by way of distinction, we call the 
live-oak ;) and with these occuri'ed frequently a new species of 
oak bearing a long slender acorn, from an inch to an inch and a 
half in length, which we now began to see formed the principal 
vegetable food of the inhabitants of this region. In a short dis- 
tance we crossed a little rivulet, where were two old huts, and 
near by were heaps of acorn hulls. The ground round about 
was very rich, covered with an exuberant sward of grass ; and 
we sat down for a while in the shade of the oaks, to let the 
animals feed. We repeated our shouts for Mr. Preuss ; and 
this time were gratified with an answer. The voice grew 
rapidly nearer, ascending from the river ; but when we ex- 
pected to see him emerge, it ceased entirely. We had called 
up some straggling Indian — the first we had met, although for 
two days back we had seen tracks — who' mistaking us for his 
fellows, had been only undeceived on getting close up. It 
would have been plea.sant to witness his astonishment ; he 
would not have been more frightened had some of the old 
mountain spirits they are so much afraid of suddenly appeared 
in his path. Ignorant of the character of these people, we had 
now an additional cause of uneasiness in regard to Mr. Preuss; 
he had no arms with him, and we began to think his chance 
doubtful. We followed on a trail, still keeping out from the 
river, and descended to a very large creek, dashing with great 



346 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Mahch, 

velocity over a pre-eminently rocky bed, and among large boul- 
ders. The bed had sudden breaks, formed by deep holes and 
ledges of rock running across. Even here, it deserves the 
name of Rock creek, which we gave to it. We succeeded in 
fording it, and toiled about three thousand feet up the opposite 
hill. The mountains now were getting sensibly lower ; but still 
there is no valley on the river, which presents steep and rocky 
banks ; but here, several miles from the river, the country is 
smooth and grassy ; the forest has no undergrowth ; and in 
the open valleys of rivulets, or around spring-heads, the low 
groves of live-oak give the appearance of orchards in an old 
cultivated country. Occasionally we met deer, but had not 
the necessary time for hunting. At one of these orchard- 
grounds, we encamped about noon to make an effort for Mr. 
Preuss. One man took his way along a spur leading into 
the river, in hope to cross his trail ; and another took our own 
back. Both were volunteers; and to the successful man was 
promised a pair of pistols — not as a reward, but as a token 
of gratitude for a service which would free us all from much 
anxiety. 

We had among our few animals a horse which was so 
much reduced, that, with traveling, even the good grass could 
not save him ; and, having nothing to eat, he was killed this 
afternoon. He was a good animal, and had made the journey 
round from Fort Hall. 

Dodccatheon dcnfalum continued the characteristic plant in 
flower f and the naked-looking shrub already mentioned con- 
^inued characteristic, beginning to put forth a small white blos- 
som. At evening the men returned, having seen or heard 
nothing of Mr. Preuss ; and I determined to make a hard push 
down the river the next morning and get ahead of him. 

4th. — We continued rapidly along on a broad plainly-beaten 
trail, the mere traveling and breathing the delightful air being 
a positive enjoyment. Our road led along a ridge inclining to 
the river, and the air and the open grounds were fragrant with 
flowering slirul)s ; and in the course of the morning we issued 
on an open spur, by which we descended directly to the stream. 
Here the river issues suddenlv from the mountains, which 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 347 

hitherto had hemmed it closely in ; these now become softer, 
and change sensibly their ciuiracter ; and at this point com- 
mences the most beautiful valley in which we had ever traveled. 
We hurried to the river, on which we noticed a small sand 
beach, to which Mr. Preuss would naturally have gone. We 
found no trace of him, but, instead, were recent tracks of bare- 
footed Indians, and little piles of muscle-shells, and old fires 
where they had roasted the fish. We traveled on over the 
river grounds, which were undulating, and covered with graiss 
to the river brink. We halted to noon a few miles beyond, 
always under the shade of the evergreen oaks, which formed 
open groves on the bottoms. 

Continuing our road in the afternoon, we ascended to the 
uplands, where the river passes round a point of great beau- 
ty, and goes through very remarkable dalles, in character re- 
sembling those of the Columbia. Beyond, we again descended 
to the bottoms, where we found an Indian village, consisting 
of two or three huts ; we had come upon them suddenly, and 
the people had evidently just run off. The huts were low and 
slight, made like beehives in a picture, five or six feet high, 
and near each was a crate, formed of interlaced branches and 
grass, in size and shape like a very large hogshead. Each of 
these contained from six to nine bushels. These were filled 
with the long acorns already mentioned, and in the huts were 
several neatly-made baskets, containing quantities of the acorns 
roasted. They were sweet and agreeably flavored, and we 
supplied ourselves with about half a bushel, leaving one of our 
shirts, a handkerchief, and some smaller articles, in exchange. 
The river again entered for a space among the hills, and we 
followed a trail leading across a bend through a handsome hol- 
low behind. Here, while engaged in trying to circumvent a 
deer, we discovered some Indians on a hill' several hundred 
yards ahead, and gave them a shout, to which they responded 
by loud and rapid talking and vehement gesticulation, but made 
no stop, hurrying up the mountain as fast as their legs could 
carry them. We passed on, and again encamped in a grassy 
grove. 

The absence of Mr. Preuss gave me great concern j and. 



348 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [March, 

for a large reward, Derosier volunteered to go back on the trail. 
I directed him to search along the river, traveling upward for 
the space of a day and a half, at which time I expected he 
would meet Mr. Fitzpatrick, whom I requested to aid in the 
search ; at all events, he was to go no farther, but return to 
this camp, where a cache of provisions was made for him. 

Continuing the next day down the river, we discovered three 
squaws in a little bottom, and surrounded them before they 
could make their escape. They had large conical baskets, 
which they were engaged in filling with a small It-afy plant 
[p.rodium cicutarium) just now beginning to bloom, and covering 
the ground like a sward of grass. These did not make any 
lamentations, but appeared very much impressed with our ap- 
pearance, speaking to us only in a whisper, and oflbring us 
smaller baskets of the plant, which they signified to us was 
good to eat, n\aking signs also that it was to be cooked by the 
fire. We drew out a little cold horse-meat, and the squaws 
made signs to us that the men had gone out after deer, and that 
we could have some by waiting till they came in. We ob- 
served that the horses ate with great avidity the herb which 
they had been gathering ; and here also, for the first time, 
we saw Indians eat the common grass — one of the squaws 
pulling several tufts, and eating it with apparent relish. See- 
ing our surprise, she pointed to the horses ; but we could not 
well understand what she meant, except, perhaps, that what 
was good for the one was good for the other. 

We encamped in the evening on the shore of the river, at a 
place where the associated beauties of scenery made so strong 
an impression on us that we gave it the name of the Beautiful 
Camp. The undulating river shore was shaded with the live- 
oaks, which formed a continuous grove over the country, and 
the same grassy sward extended to the edge of the water, and 
we made our fires near some large granite masses which were 
lying among the trees. We had seen several of the acorn 
caches during the day, and here there were two which were 
very large, containing each, probably, ten bushels. Towards 
eveniii" we heard a weak shout amou" the hills behind, and 
had the pleasure to see Mr. Preuss descending towards the 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 349 

camp. Like ourselves, he had traveled to-day 25 miles, but 
had seen nothing of Derosier. Knowing, on the day he was lost, 
that I was determined to keep the river as much as possible, he 
had not thought it necessary to follow the trail very closely, but 
Walked on, right and left, certain to find it somewhere along 
the river, searching places to obtain good views of the coun- 
try. Towards sunset he climbed down towards the river to 
look for the camp ; but, finding no trail, concluded that we 
were behind, and walked back till night came on, when, being 
very much fatigued, he collected drift-wood and made a large 
fire among the rocks. The next day it became more serious, 
and he encamped again alone, thinking that we must have 
taken some other course. To go back would have been mad- 
ness in his weak and starved condition, and onward towards 
the valley was his only hope, always in expectation of reach- 
ing it soon. His principal means of subsistence were a few 
roots, which the hunters call sweet onions, having very little 
taste, but a good deal of nutriment, growing generally in 
rocky ground, and requiring a good deal of labor to get, as he 
had only a pocket-knife. Searching for these, he found a nest 
of big ants, which he let run on his hand, and stripped them 
off in his mouth ; these had an agreeable acid taste. One of 
his greatest privations was the want of tobacco ; and a pleas- 
ant smoke at evening would have been a relief which only a 
voyageur could appreciate. He tried the dried leaves of the 
live-oak, knowing that those of other oaks were sometimes 
used as a substitute ; but these were too thick, and would hot 
do. On the 4th he made seven or eight miles, walking slowly 
along the river, avoiding as much as possible to climb the hills. 
In little pools he caught some of the smallest kind of frogs, 
which he swallowed, not so much in the gratification of hun- 
ger, as in the hope of obtaining some strength. Scattered along 
the river were old fire-places, where the Indians had roasted 
muscles and acorns ; but though he searched diligently, he did 
not there succeed in finding either. He had collected firewood 
for the night, when lie heard, at some distance from tlie river, 
the barking of what he thought were two dogs, and walked in 
that direction as quickly as he was able, hoping to find there 

30 



3o0 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [March, 

some Indian hut, but met only two wolves ; and, in his disap- 
pointment, the gloom of tlie forest was doubled. 

Traveling the next day feebly down the river, he found five 
or six Indians at the huts of which we have spoken : .some 
were painting themselves black, and others roasting acorns. 
Being only one man, they did not run off, but received him 
kindly, and gave him a welcome supply of roasted acorns. 
He gave them his pocket-knife in return, and stretched out his 
hand to one of the Indians, who did not appear to comprehend 
the motion, but jumped back, as if he thought he was about to 
lay hold of him. They seemed afraid of him, not certain as 
to what he was. 

Traveling on, he came to the place where we had found the 
squaws. Here he found our fire still burning, and the tracks 
of the horses. The sight gave him sudden hope and courage ; 
and, following as fast as he could, joined us at evening. 

6th. — We continued on our road through the same surpass- 
ingly beautiful country, entirely unequalled for the pasturage 
of stock by any thing we had ever seen. Our horses had now 
become so strong that they were able to carry us, and we 
traveled rapidly — over four miles an hour; four of us riding 
every alternate hour. Every few hundred yards we came 
upon a little band of deer ; but we were too eager to reach the 
settlement, which we momentarily expected to discover, to hall 
for any other than a passing shot. In a few hours we reached 
a large fork, the northern branch of the river, and equal in 
size to that which we had descended. Together they formed 
a beautiful stream, 60 to 100 yards wide ; which at first, igno- 
rant of the nature of the country through which that river ran, 
we took to be the Sacramento. 

We continued down the right bank of the river, traveling for 
a while over a wooded upland, where we had the delight to 
discover tracks of cattle. To the southwest was visible a black 
column of smoke, which we had frequently noticed in descend- 
ing, arising from the fires we had seen from the top of the 
Sierra. From the upland we descended into broad groves on 
the river, consisting of the evergreen, and a new species of a 
white-oak, with a large tufted top, and three to six feet in diam- 



1844,] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 351 

eter. Among these was no brushwood ; and the grassy sur- 
face gave to it the appearance of parks in an old-settled coun- 
try. Following the tracks of the horses and cattle, in search 
of people, we discovered a small village of Indians. Some of 
these had on shirts of civilized manufacture, but were other- 
wise naked, and we could understand nothing from them : they 
appeared entirely astonished at seeing us. 

We made an acorn meal at noon, and hurried on ; the val- 
ley being gay with flowers, and some of the banks being abso- 
lutely golden with the Califomian poppy, (eschescholtz/a crocea.) 
Here the grass was smooth and green, and the groves very open ; 
the large oaks throwing a broad shade among sunny spots. 
Shortly afterwards we gave a shout at the appearance, on a 
little bluff, of a neatly-built adohe house, with glass windows. 
We rode up, but, to our disappointment, found only Indians. 
There was no appearance of cultivation, and we could see no 
cattle ; and we supposed the place had been abandoned. We 
now pressed on more eagerly than ever : the river swept round 
a large bend to the right ; the hills lowered down entirely ; 
and, gradually entering a broad valley, we came unexpectedly 
into a large Indian village, where the people looked clean, and 
wore cotton shirts and various other articles of dress. They 
immediately crowded around us, and we had the inexpressible 
delight to find one who spoke a little indifferent Spanish, but 
who at first confounded us by saying there were no whites in 
the country ; but just then a well-dressed Indian came up, and 
made his salutations in very well-spoken Spanish. In answer 
to our inquiries, he informed us that we were upon the Rio dc 
los Americanos, (the river of the Americans,) and that it joined 
the Sacramento river about ten miles below. Never did a name 
sound more sweetly ! We felt ourselves among our country- 
men ; for the name of American, in these distant parts, is ap- 
plied to the citizens of the United States. To our eager inqui- 
ries he answered, " I am a vaquero (cowherd) in the service of 
Capt. Sutter, and , the people of this rancheria work for him." 
Our evident satisfaction made him communicative ; and he 
went on to say that Capt. Sutter was a very rich man, and al- 
ways glad to see his country people. We asked for his house. 



352 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [March, 

He answered, that it was just over the hill before us ; and 
offered, if we would wait a moment, to take his horse and con- 
duct us to it. We readily accepted this civil offer. In a short 
distance we came in sight of the fort ; and, passing on the way 
the house of a settler on the opposite side, (a Mr. Sinclair,) we 
forded the river ; and in a few miles were met, a short distance 
from the fort, by Capt. Sutter himself. He gave us a most 
frank and cordial reception — conducted us immediately to his 
residence — and under his hospitable roof we had a night of 
rest, enjoyment, and refreshment, which none but ourselves 
could appreciate. But the party left in the mountains, with 
Mr. Fitzpatrick, were to be attended to ; and the next morning, 
supplied with fresh horses and provisions, I hurried off to meet 
them. On the second day we met, a few miles below the forks 
of the Rio de los Americanos ; and a more forlorn and pitiable 
sight than they presented, cannot well be imagined. They 
were all on foot — each man, weak and emaciated, leading a 
horse or mule as weak and emaciated as themselves. They 
had experienced great difficulty in descending the mountains, 
made slippery by rains and melting snows, and niany horses 
fell over precipices, and were killed ; and with some were lost 
the packs they carried. Among these, was a mule with the 
plants which we had collected since leaving Fort Hall, along 
a line of 2,000 miles' travel. Out of 67 horses and mules, 
with which we commenced crossing the Sierra, only 38 reached 
the valley of the Sacramento, and they only in a condition to 
be led along. Mr. Fitzpatrick and his party, traveling more 
slowly, had been able to make some little exertion at hunting, 
and had killed a few deer. The scanty supply was a great 
relief to them ; for several had been made sick by the strange 
and unwiiolesome food which the preservation of life compelled 
them to use. We slopped and encamped as soon as we met ; 
and a repast of good beef, excellent bread, and delicious salmon, 
which I had brought along, was their first relief from the suf- 
ferings of tlie Sierra, and their first introduction to the luxuries 
(if the Sacramento. It required all our pliilosophy and for- 
bearance to prevent plenty from becoming as liiirtfiil to us now, 
as scarcily had been before. 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 353 

« 

The next day, March 8th, we encamped at the junction of 
the two rivers, the Sacramento and Americanos; and thus 
found the whole party in the beautiful valley of the Sacramento. 
It was a convenient place for the camp ; and, among other 
things, was within reach of the wood necessary to make the pack- 
saddles, which we should need on our long journey home, from 
which we were farther distant now than we were four months 
before, when from the Dalles of the Columbia we so cheerfully 
took up the homeward line of march. 

Captain Sutter emigrated to this country from the western 
part of Missouri in 1838-39, and formed the first settlemen.t in 
the valley, on a large grant of land which he obtained from 
the Mexican Government. He had, at first, some trouble with 
the Indians ; but, by the occasional exercise of well-timed 
authority, he has succeeded in converting them into a peaceable 
and industrious people. The ditches around his extensive 
wheat-fields ; the making of the sun-dried bricks, of which his 
fort is constructed ; the ploughing, harrowing, and oth^- agri- 
cultural operations, are entirely the work of these Indians, for 
which they receive a very moderate compensation — principally 
in shirts, blankets, and other articles of clotliing. In the same 
manner, on application to the chief of a village, he readily ob- 
tains as many boys and girls as he has any use for. There 
were at this time a number of girls at the fort, in training for 
a future woolen factory ; but they were now all busily en- 
gaged in constantly watering the gardens, which the unfavora- 
ble dryness of the season rendered necessary. The occasional 
dryness of some seasons, I understood to be the only complaint 
of the settlers in this fertile valley, as it sometimes renders the 
crops uncertain. Mr. Sutter was about making arrangements 
to irrigate his lands by means of the Rio de los Amcrieanos- 
He had this year sown, and altogether by Indian labor, three 
hundred fanegas of wheat. 

A few years since, the neighboring Russian establishment 
of Ross, being about to withdraw from the country, sold to hira 
a large number of stock, with agricultural and other stores,, 
witli a number of pieces of artillery and other munitions of 
war ; for these, a regular yearly payment is made in grain. 

30* 



354 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Maech, 

The fort is a quadrangular adobe structure, mounting twelve 
pieces of artillery, (two of them brass,) and capable of ad- 
mitting a garrison of a thousand men ; this, at present, con- 
sists of forty Indians in uniform — one of whom was always 
found on duty at the gate. As might naturally be expected, 
the pieces are not in very good order. The whites in the 
employment of Capt. Sutter, American, French, and German, 
amount, perhaps, to thirty men. The inner wall is formed 
into buildings, comprising the common quarters, with black- 
smith and other workshops ; the dwelling-house, with a large 
distjllery-house, and other buildings, occupying more the centre 
of the area. 

It is built upon a pond-like stream, at times a running creek 
communicating with the Rio de los Americanos, which enters 
the Sacramento about two miles below. The latter is here a 
noble river, about three hundred yards broad, deep and tran- 
quil, with several fathoms of water in the channel, and its 
banks continuously timbered. There were two vessels be- 
longing to Capt. Sutter at anchor near the landing — one a 
large two-masted lighter, and the other a schooner, which was 
shortly to proceed on a voyage to Fort Vancouver for a cargo 
of goods. 

Since his arrival, several other persons, principally Ameri- 
cans, have established themselves in the valley. Mr. Sinclair, 
from whom I experienced much kindness during my stay, is 
settled a few miles distant, on the Rio de los Americanos. Mr. 
Coudrois, a gentleman from Germany, has established himself 
on Feather river, and is associated with Capt. Sutter in agri- 
cultural pursuits. Among other improvements, they are about 
to introduce the cultivation of rape-seed, {brassica rapiis,) which 
there is every reason to believe is admirably adapted to the 
climate and soil. The lowest average produce of wheat, as 
far as we can at present know, is thirty-five fanegas for one 
sown ; but, as an instance of its fertility, it may he mentioned 
that Sefior Valejo obtained, on a piece of ground where sheep 
had been pa.stured, 800 fanegas for eight sown. The produce 
being dilferent in various places, a very correct idea cannot be 
formed. 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 355 

An impetus was given to the active little population by our 
arrival, as we were in want of every thing. Mules, horses, 
and cattle, were to be collected ; the horse-mill was at work 
day and night, to make sufficient flour ; the blacksmith's shop 
was put in requisition for horse-shoes and bridle-bits ; and 
pack-saddles, ropes, and bridles, and all the other little equip- 
ments of the camp, were again to be provided. 

The delay thus occasioned was one of repose and enjoyment, 
which our situation required, and, anxious as we were to re- 
sume our homeward journey, was regretted by no one. In the 
mean time, I had the pleasure to meet with Mr. Chiles, who 
was residing at a farm on the other side of the river Sacramen- 
to, while engaged in the selection of a place for a settlement, 
for which he had received the necessary grant of land from the 
Mexican government. 

It will be remembered that we had parted near the frontier 
of the states, and that he had subsequently descended the val- 
ley of Lewis's fork, with a party of ten or twelve men, with 
the intention of crossing the intermediate mountains to the 
waters of the Bay of San Francisco. In the execution of this 
design, and aided by subsequent information, he left the Co- 
lumbia at the mouth of Malheur river, and, making his way to 
the head. waters of the Sacramento with a part of his company, 
traveled down that river to the settlements of Nueva Helvetia. 
The other party, to whom he had committed his wagons, and 
mill-irons, and saws, took a course further to the south, and the 
wagons and their contents were lost. 

On the 22d we made a preparatory move, and encamped 
near the settlement of Mr. Sinclair, on the left bank of the Rio 
de los Americanos. I had discharged five of the party ; Ncal, 
the blacksmith, (an excellent workman, and an unmarried 
man, who had done his duty faithfully, and had been of very 
great service to me,) desired to remain, as strong inducements 
were ofiered here to mechanics. 

Although at considerable inconvenience to myself, his good 
conduct induced me to comply with his request ; and I ob- 
tained for him from Capt. Sutter, a present compensation of 
two dollars and a half per diem, with a promise that it should 



356 CAPT. FREiMONT's NARRATIVE. [MaRCH, 

be increased to five, if he proved as good a workman as had 
been represented. He was more particularly an agricultural 
blacksmith. The other men were discharged with their own 
consent. 

While we remained at this place, Derosier, one of our best 
men, whose steady good conduct had won my regard, wander- 
ed off from the camp, and never returned to it again, nor has 
he since been heard of 

24t|j. — We resumed our journey with an ample stock of 
provisions and a large cavalcade of animals, consisting of 130 
horses a»d mules, and about 30 head of cattle, five of which 
were milch-cows. Mr. Sutter furnished us also with an Indian 
boy, who had been trained as a vaqucro, and who would be 
serviceable in managing our cavalcade, great part of which 
Were nearly as wild as butfalo, and who was, besides, very anx- 
ious to go along with us. Our direct course home was east, but 
the Sierra would force us .south, above 500 miles of traveling, 
to a pass at the head of the San .loaquin river. Tiiis pass, re- 
ported to be good, was discovered by Mr. Joseph Walker, of 
whom I have already spoken, and whose name it might there- 
fore appropriately bear. To reach it, our course lay along the 
valley of the San Joaquin — the river on our right, and the lofty 
wall of the impassable Sierra on the left. From that pass we 
were to move soufhcastwarrlly, liavijig the Sierra then on the 
right, and reach the " Spanish trail,'^ deviously traced from one 
watering-place to another, which constituted the route of the 
caravans from Puchla de los Angelas, near the coast of the 
Pacific, to Santa Fe of New Mexico. From the pa.ss to this 
trail was 150 miles. Following that trail through a desert, 
relievcel by some fcM'tile plains indicated by the recurrence of 
the term vegas, until it turned to the right to cross the Colorado, 
our course would be northeast until we regained the latitude 
we had lost in arriving at Futah lake, and thence to the Rocky 
mountains at tlio hnad of the Arkansas. This course of trav- 
eling, forced upon us by the structure of the country, would 
occupy a computed distance of 2,000 miles before we reached 
the head of the .\rkansas — not a settlement to be seen upon 
it — and the names of places along it, all being Spanish or In- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 357 

dian, indicated that it had been but little trod by American feet. 
Though long, and not free from hardships, this route presented 
some points of attraction, in tracing the Sierra Nevada — turn- 
ing the Great Basin, perhaps crossing its rim on the south — 
completely solving the problem of any river, except the Colo- 
rado, from the Rocky mountains on that part of our continent 
— and seeing the southern extremity of the Great Salt lake, of 
which the northern part had been examined the year before. 

Taking leave of Mr. Sutter, who, with several g^tlemen, 
accompanied us a few miles on our way, we traveled about 18 
miles, and encamped on the Rio de los Cosumnes, a ^tl'cam re- 
ceiving its name from the Indians who live in its valley. Our 
road was through a level country, admirably suited to cultiva- 
tion, and covered with groves of oak-trees, principally the 
evergreen-oak, and a large oak already mentioned, in form like 
those of the white-oak. The weather, which here, at this sea- 
son, can easily be changed from the summer heat of the valley 
to the frosty mornings and bright days nearer the mountains, 
continued delightful for travelers, but unfavorable to the agri- 
culturists, whose crops of wheat began to wear a yellow tinge 
from want of rain. 

25th. — We traveled for 28 miles over the same delisfhtful 
country as yesterday, and halted in a beautiful bottom at the 
ford of the Rio de los Mukelemnes, receiving its name from an- 
other Indian tribe living on the river. The bottoms on the 
stream are broad, rich, and extremely fertile, and the uplands 
are shaded with oak groves. A showy lupinus, of extraordi- 
nary beauty, growing four to five feet in height, and covered 
with spikes in bloom, adorned the banks of the river, and filled 
the air with a light and grateful perfume. 

On the 26th we halted at the Arroyo de las Calaveras, (Skull 
creek,) a tributary to the San Joaquin — the previous two 
streams entering the bay between the San Joaquin and Sacra- 
mento rivers. This place is beautiful, with open groves of 
oak, and a grassy sward beneath, with many plants in bloom, 
some varieties of which seem to love the shade of the trees, 
and grow there in close small fields. Near the river, and re- 
placing the grass, are great quantities of ammole, (soap plant,) 



358 CAPT. Fremont's nareative. [March, 

the leaves of which are used in California for making, among 
other things, mats for saddle-cloths. A vine with a small white 
flower, (melothria ?) called here la yerha buena, and which, 
from its abundance, gives name to an island and town in the 
bay, was to-day very frequent on our road — sorYietimes running 
on the ground or climbing the trees. 

27th. — To-day we traveled steadily and rapidly up the val- 
ley ; for, with our wild animals, any other gait was impossi- 
ble, and making about five miles an hour. During the earlier 
part of the day, our ride had been over a very level prairie, or 
rather a succession of long stretches of prairie, separated by 
lines and groves of oak timber, growing along dry gullies, 
which are filled with water in seasons of rain ; and, perhaps, 
also, by the melting snows. Over much of this extent, the 
vegetation was sparse ; the surface showing plainly the action 
of water, which, in the season of flood, the Joaquin spreads 
over the valley. About one o'clock we came again among 
innumerable flowers ; and a few miles further, fields of the 
beautiful blue-flowering lupine, which seems to love the neigh- 
borhood of water, indicated that we were approaching a stream. 
We here found this beautiful shrub in thickets, some of them 
being 12 feet in height. Occasionally three or four plants 
were clustered together, forming a grand bouquet, about 90 
feet in circumference, and 10 feet high ; the whole summit 
covered with spikes of flowers, the perfume of wiiich is very 
sweet and grateful. A lover of natural beauty can imagine 
with what pleasure we rode among these flowering groves, 
which filled the air with a light and delicate fragrance. We 
continued our road for about a half a mile, interspersed through 
an open grove of live-oaks, which, in form, were the most sym- 
metrical and beautiful we had yet seen in this country. The 
ends of their branches rested on the ground, forming somewhat 
more than a half sphere of very full and regular figure, with 
leaves apparently smaller than usual. 

The Californian poppy, of a rich orange color, was numer- 
ous tu-day. Elk and several bands of antelope made their ap- 
pearance. 

Our road was now one continued enjoyment ; and it was 



1844,1 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 359 

pleasant riding among this assemblage of green pastures with 
varied flowers and scattered groves, and out of the warm green 
spring to look at the rocky and snowy peaks where lately we 
had sufiered so much. Emerging from the timber, we came 
suddenly upon the Stanislaus river, where we hoped to find 
a ford, but the stream was flowing by, dark and deep, swol- 
len by the mountain snows ; its general breadth was about 50 
yards. 

We traveled about five miles up the river, and encamped 
without being able to find a ford. Here we made a large 
coral, in order to be able to catch a sufficient number of our 
wild animals to relieve those previously packed. 

Under the shade of the oaks, along the river, I noticed ero- 
dium cicutarium in bloom, eight or ten inches high. This is 
the plant which we had seen the squaws gathering on the Rio 
de los Americanos. By the inhabitants of the valley it is 
highly esteemed for fattening cattle, which appear to be very 
fond of it. Here, where the soil begins to be sandy, it supplies 
to a considerable extent the want of grass. 

Desirous, as far as possible, without delay, to include in our 
examination the San Joaquin river, I returned this morning 
down the Stanislaus for 17 miles, and again encamped without 
having found a fording-place. After following it for eight 
miles further the next morning, and finding ourselves in the 
vicinity of the San Joaquin, encamped in a handsome oak grove, 
and, several cattle being killed, we ferried over our baggage 
in their skins. Here our Indian boy, who probably had not 
much idea of where he was going, and began to be alarmed at 
the many streams which we wei'e rapidly putting between him 
and the village, deserted. 

Thirteen head of cattle took a sudden fright, while we were 
driving them across the river, and galloped olF. I remained a 
day in the endeavor to recover them ; but, finding they had 
taken the trail back to the fort, let them go without further ef- 
fort. Here we had several days of warm and pleasant rain, 
which doubtless saved the crops below. 



360 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 



APRIL. 

On the 1st of April, we made 10 miles across a prairie with- 
out timber, when we were stopped again by another large 
river, which is called the Rio dc la Merced, (river of our Lady 
of Mercy.) Here the country had lost its character of ex- 
treme fertility, the soil having become more sandy and light ; 
but, for several days past, its beauty had been increased by 
the additional animation of animal life; and now, it is crowded 
with bands of elk and wild horses ; and along the rivers are 
frequent fresh tracks of grizzly bear, which are unusually 
numerous in this country. 

Our route had been along the timber of the San .Toaquin, 
generally about eight miles distant, over a high prairie. 

In one of the bands of elk seen to-day, there were about 200 ; 
but the larger bands, both of these and wild horses, are gener- 
ally found on the other side of the river, which, for that rea- 
son, I avoided crossing. I had been informed below, that the 
droves of wild horses were almost invariably found on the 
western bank of the river ; and the danger of losing our ani- 
mals among them, together with the wish of adding to our 
reconnoissance the numerous streams which run down from the 
Sierra, decided me to travel up the eastern bank. 

2d. — The day was occupied in building a boat, and ferrying 
our baggage across the river ; and we encamped on the bank. 
A large fishing eagle was slowly sailing along, looking after 
salmon ; and there were some pretty birds in the timber, with 
partridges, ducks and geese innumerable in the neighborhood. 
We were struck with the tameness of the latter bird at Helve- 
tia, scattered about in flocks near the wheat-fields, and eating 
grass on the prairie ; a horseman would ride by within 30 
yards, without disturbing them. 

3(1. — To-day we touched several times the San .Toaquin riv- 
er — here a fine-looking tranquil stream, with a slight current, 
and apparently deep. It resembled the Missouri in color,,with 
occasional points of white sand ; and its banks, where steep, 
were a kind of sandy clay ; its average width appeared to be 



« 



1844.] CAPT. fkemont's narrative. 3G1 

about eighty yards. In the bottoms are frequent ponds, where 
our approach disturbed multitudes of wild fowl, principally 
geese. Skirting along the timbei", we frequently started elk ; 
and large bands were seen during the day, with antelope and 
wild horses. The low country and the timber rendered it diffi- 
cult to keep the main line of the river ; and this evening we 
encamped on a tributary stream, about five miles from its 
mouth. On the prairie bordering the San Joaquin bottoms, 
there occurred during the day but little grass, and in its place 
was a sparse and dwarf growth of plants ; the soil being sandy, 
with small bare places and hillocks, reminded me much of the 
Platte bottoms; but, on approaching the timber, we found a more 
luxuriant vegetation, and at our camp was an abundance of 
grass and pea-vines. 

The foliage of the oak is getting darker ; and every thing, 
except that the weather is a little cool, shows that spring 
is rapidly advancing ; and to-day we had quite a summer 
rain. 

4th. — Commenced to rain at daylight, but cleared off brightly 
at sunrise. We ferried the river without any difficulty, and 
continued up the San Joaquin. Elk were running in bands 
over the prairie and in the skirt of the timber. We reached 
the river at the mouth of a large slough, which we were unable 
to ford, and made a circuit of several miles around. Here the 
country appears very flat ; oak-trees have entirely disappeared, 
and are replaced by a large willow, nearly equal to it in size. 
The river is about a hundred yards in breadth, branching into 
sloughs, and interspersed with islands. At this time it appears 
sufficiently deep for a small steamer, but its navigation would 
be broken by shallows at low water. Bearing in towards the 
river, we were again forced off by another slough ; and passing 
around, steered towards a clump of trees on the river, and find- 
ing there good grass, encamped. The prairies along the left 
bank are alive with immense droves of wild horses ; and they 
had been seen during the day at every opening through the 
woods which atTorded us a view across the river. Latitude, 
by observation, 37° 08" OiV ; longitude 120° 4.y 22'^ 

5th. — During the earlier part of the day's ride, the country 

31 



362 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

presented a lacustrine appearance ; the river was deep, and 
nearly on a level with the surrounding country ; its banks 
raised like a levee, and fringed with willows. Over the bor- 
dering plain were interspersed spots of prairie among fields of 
tulc, (bulrushes,) which in tliis country are called tulares, and 
little ponds. On the opposite side, a line of timber was visible, 
which, according to information, points out the course of the 
slough, which at times of high water connects with the San 
Joaquin river — a large body of water in the upper part of the 
valley, called the Tule lakes. The river and all its sloughs 
are very full, and it is probable that the lake is now discharg- 
ing. Here elk were frequently started, and one was shot out 
of a band which ran around us. On our left, the Sierra main- 
tains its snowy height, and masses of snow appear to descend 
very low towards the plains ; probably the late rains in the 
valley were snow on the mountains. We traveled 37 miles, 
and encamped on the river. Longitude of the camp, 120^ 28' 
34'^ and latitude, 36° 49' 12''. 

6th. — After having traveled fifteen miles along the river, 
we made an early halt, under the shade of sycamore-trees. 
Here we found the San Joaquin coming down from the Sierra 
with a westerly course, and chocking our way, as all its tribu- 
taries had previously done. We had expected to raft the river; 
but found a good ford, and encamped on the opposite bank, 
where droves of wild horses were raising clouds of dust on the 
prairie. Columns of smoke were visible in the direction of the 
Tule lakes to the southward — probably kindled in the tulares 
by the Indians, as signals that there were strangers in the val- 
ley. 

We made, on the 7tb, a hard march in a cold chilly rain 
from morning until night — the weather so thick that we travel- 
ed by compass. This was a traverse from the San Joaquin to 
the waters of the Tule hikes, and our road was over a very 
level prairie country. We saw wolves frequently during the 
day, prowling about after the young antelope, which cannot 
run very fast. These were numerous during the day, antl two 
were caught by the people. 

Late in the afternoon we discovered timber, which was found 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 863 

to be groves of oak-trees on a dry arroyo. The rain, which 
had fallen in frequent showers, poured down in a storm at sun- 
set, with a strong wind, which swept off the clouds, and left a 
clear sky. Riding on through the timber, about dark we found 
abundant water in small ponds, 20 to 30 yards in diameter, 
with clear deep water and sandy beds, bordered with bog rush- 
es, [jimcus effusus,) and a tall rush (scirpus lacustris) twelve 
feet high, and surrounded near the margin with willow-trees in 
bloom ; among them one which resembled salix myricoides. 
The oak of the groves was the same already mentioned, with, 
small leaves, in form like those of the white-oak, and forming, 
with the evergreen-oak, the characteristic trees of the valley 

8th. — After a ride of two miles through brush and open 
groves, we reached a large stream, called the River of the 
Lake, resembling in size the San Joaquin, and being about 100 
yards broad. This is the principal tributary to the Tule lakes, 
which collect all the waters in the upper part of the valley. 
While we were searching for a ford, some Indians appeared 
on the opposite bank, and having discovered that we were not 
Spanish soldiers, showed us the way to a good ford several 
miles above. 

The Indians of the Sierra make frequent descents upon the 
settlements west of the Coast Range, which they keep constant- 
ly swept of horses ; among them are many who are called 
Christian Indians, being refugees from Spanish missions. Sev- 
eral of these incursions occurred while we were at Helvetia. 
Occasionally parties of soldiei's follow them across the Coast 
Range, but never enter the Sierra. 

On the opposite side we found some forty or fifty Indians, 
who had come to meet us from the village below. We made 
them some small presents, and invited them to our encampment, 
which, after about three miles through fine oak groves, we 
made on the river. We made a fort, principally on account 
of our animals. The Indians brought otter-skins, and several 
kinds of fish, and bread made of acorns, to trade. Among 
them were several who had come to live among these Indians 
when the missions were broken up, and who spoke Spanish 
fluently. They informed us that they were called by the 



364 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

Spaniards mansitos, (tame,) in distinction from the wilder 
tribes of the mountains. They, however, think themselves 
very insecure, not knowing at what unforeseen moment the 
sins of the latter may be visited upon them. They are dark- 
skinned, but handsome and intelligent Indians, and live princi- 
pally on acorns and the roots of the tule, of which also their 
huts are made. 

By observation, the latitude of the encampment is 36° 24' 
50'', and longitude 119° 41' 40''. 

9th. — For several miles we had very bad traveling over 
what is called rotten ground, in which the horses were fre- 
quently up to their knees. Making towards a line of timber, 
we found a small fordable stream, beyond which the country 
improved, and the grass became excellent ; and crossing a 
number of dry and timbered arroyos, we traveled until late 
through open oak groves, and encamped among a collection of 
streams. These were running among rushes and willows ; 
and, as usual, flocks of blackbirds announced our approach to 
water. We have here approached considerably nearer to the 
eastern Sierra, which shows very plainly, still covered with 
masses of snow, which yesterday and to-day has also appeared 
abundant on the Coast Range. 

10th. — To-day we made another long journey of about forty 
miles, through a country uninteresting and flat, with very little 
grass and a sandy soil, in which several branches we crossed 
liad lost their water. In the evening the face of the country 
became hilly ; and, turning a few miles up towards the moun- 
tains, we found a good encampment on a pretty stream hidden 
among the hills, and handsomely timbered, principally with 
large cotton woods, {poptilus, differing from any in Michaux's 
Sylva.) The seed-vessels of this tree were now just about 
bursting. 

Several Indians came down the river to see us in the even- 
ing ; we gave them sujjper, and cautioned them against steal- 
ing our horses ; which tlioy promised not to attempt. 

11th. — A l)roiid trail along the river here takes out among 
the hills. " Buen camino," (good road,) said one of the In- 
dians, of whom we had inquired about the pass ; and, follow- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's kaerative. 365 

ing it accordingly, it conducted us beautifully through a very 
broken country, by an excellent way, which, otherwise, we 
should have found extremely bad. Taken separately, the hills 
present smooth and graceful outlines, but, together, make bad 
traveling ground. Instead of grass, the whole face of the 
country is closely covered with erodium cicutarium, here only 
two or three inches high. Its height and beauty varied in a 
remarkable manner with the locality, being, in many low places 
which we passed during the day, around streams and springs, 
two and three feet high. The country had now assumed a 
character of aridity ; and the luxuriant green of these little 
streams, wooded with willow, oak, or sycamore, looked very 
refreshing among the sandy hills. 

In the evening we encamped on a large creek, with abundant 
water. I noticed here in bloom, for the first time since leaving 
the Arkansas waters, the Mir/bilis Jalapa. 

12th. — Along our road to-day tlie country was altogether 
sandy, and vegetation meager. Ephedra occidentalism which we 
had first seen in the neighborhood of the Pyramid lake, made 
its appearance here, and in the course of the day became 
very abundant, and in large bushes. Towards the close of the 
afternoon, we reached a tolerably large river, which empties 
into a small lake at the head of the valley ; it is about thirt}"- 
five yards wide, with a stony and gravelly bed, and the 
swiftest stream we have crossed since leaving the bay. The 
bottoms produced no grass, though well timbered with willow 
and Cottonwood ; and, after ascending several miles, we 
made a late encampment on a little bottom, with scanty grass. 
In greater part, the vegetation along our road consisted now 
of rare and unusual plants, among which many were entirely 
new. 

Along the bottoms were thickets consisting of several varie- 
ties of shrubs, which made here their first appearance ; and 
among these was Garrya e///p/^C(2,.(Lindley,) a small tree be- 
longing to a very peculiar natural order, and, in its general 
appearance, (growing in thickets,) resembling willow. It now 
became common along the streams, frequently supplying the 
place of salix longifolia. 

31* 



36G CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

lyth. — The water was low, and a few miles above we forded 
the river at a rapid, and marched in a southeasterly direction 
over a less broken country. The mountains were now very 
near, occasionally looming out through fog. In a few hours 
we reached the bottom of a creek without water, over which 
the sandy beds were dispersed in many branches. Immediately 
where we struck it, the timber terminated ; and below, to the 
right, it was a broad bed of dry and bare sands. There were 
many tracks of Indians and horses imprinted in the sand, 
wliich, with other indications, informed us was the creek issu- 
ing from the pass, and which we have called Pass creek. We 
ascended a trail for a few miles along the creek, and suddenly 
found a stream of water five feet wide, running with a lively 
current, but losing itself almost immediately. This little 
stream showed plainly the manner in which the mountain 
waters lose themselves in sand at the eastern foot of the Sierra, 
leaving only a parched desert and arid plains beyond. The 
stream enlarged rapidly, and the timber became abundant as 
we ascended. 

A new species of pine made its appearance, with several 
kinds of oaks, and a variety of trees ; and the country chang- 
ing its appearance suddenly and entirely, we found ourselves 
again traveling among the old orchard-like places. Here we 
selected a delightful encampment in a handsome gre(Mi oak 
hollow, where among the open bolls of the trees was an abun- 
dant sward of grass and pea-vines. In the evening a Christian 
Indian rode into the camp, well dre.ssed, with long spurs, and a 
somhrco, and speaking Spanish fluently. It was an unexpected 
apparition, and a strange and pleasant sight in this desolate 
gorge of a mountain — an Indian face, Spanish costume, jing- 
ling spurs, and horse equipped after the Spanish manner. He 
informed me that ho belonged to one of the Spanish missions to 
the south, distant two or three days' ride, and that he had ob- 
tained from the priests leave to spend a few days with his 
relations in the Sierra. Having seen us enter the pass, he had 
come down to visit us. He appeared familiarly acquainted 
with the country, and gave me definite and clear information 
in regard to the desert region east of the mountains. I had 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 367 

entered the pass with a strong disposition to vary my route, and 
to travel directly across towards the Great Salt lake, in the view 
of obtaining some acquaintance with the interior of the Great 
Basin, while pursuing a direct course for the frontier ; but his 
representation, which described it as an arid and barren desert, 
that had repulsed by its sterility all the attempts of the Indians 
to penetrate it, determined nie for the present to relinquish the 
plan, and agreeably to his advice, after crossing the Sierra, 
continue our intended route along its eastern base to the Span- 
ish trail. By this route, a party of six Indians, who had come 
from a great river in the eastern part of the desert to trade 
with his people, had just started on their return. He would 
himself return the next day to San Fernando, and as our roads 
would be the same for two days, he offered his services to con- 
duct us so far on our way. His offer was gladly accepted. 
The fog which had somewhat interfered with views in the val- 
ley, had entirely passed off, and left a clear sky. That which 
had enveloped us in the neighborhood of the pass proceeded 
evidently from fires kindled among the tulares by Indians living 
near the lakes, and which were intended to warn those in the 
mountains that there were strangers in the valley. Our posi- 
tion was in latitude 35° 17'' 12'^ and longitude 118° 35'' 03'^ 
14th. — Our guide joined us this morning on the trail ; and, 
arriving in a short distance at an open bottoVn where the creek 
forked, we continued up the right-hand branch, which was en- 
riched by a profusion of flowers, and handsomely wooded with 
sycamore, oaks, cottonwood, and willow, with other trees, and 
some shrubby plants. In its long strings of balls, this sycamore 
differs from that of the United States, and is the platanus occi- 
deniahis of Hooker — a new species recently described among 
the plants collected in the voyage of the Sulphur. The cotton- 
wood varied its foliage with white tufts, and the feathery seeds 
were flying plentifully through the air. Gooseberries, nearly 
ripe, were very abundant in the mountains ; and as we passed 
the dividing grounds, which were not very easy to ascertain, 
the air was filled with perfume, as if we were entering a 
highly cultivated garden ; and, instead of green, our pathway 
and the mountain sides were covered with fields of yellow 



368 CAPT. Fremont's naiirative. [April, 

flowers, which here was the prevailing color. Our journey 
to-day was in the midst of an advanced spring, whose green 
and floral beauty olTered a delightful contrast to the sandy val- 
ley we had just left. All the day, snow was in sight on the 
butte of the mountain, which frowned down upon us on the right ; 
but we beheld it now with feelings of pleasant security, as we 
rode along between green trees, and on flowers, with humming- 
birds and other feathered friends of the traveler enlivening 
the serene spring air. As we reached the summit of this 
beautiful pass, and obtained a view into the eastern country, 
we saw at once that here was the place to take leave of all 
such pleasant scenes as those around us. The distant moun- 
tains were now bald rocks again, and below the land had any 
color but green. Taking into consideration the nature of the 
Sierra Nevada, we found this pass an excellent one for 
horses ; and with a little labor, or perhaps with a more per- 
fect examination of the localities, it might be made sufficient- 
ly practicable for wagons. Its latitude and longitude may 
be considered that of our last encampment, only a ft-w miles 
distant. The elevation was not taken — our half- wild caval- 
cade making it troublesome to halt before night, when once 
started. 

We here left the waters of the bay of San Francisco, and, 
though forced upon them contrary to my intentions, I cannot 
regret the necessity which occasioned the deviation. It made 
me well acquainted with the great range of the Sierra Nevada 
of the Aha California, and showed that this broad and ele- 
vated snowy ridge was a continuation of the Cascade Range 
of Oregon, between which and the ocean there is still another 
and a lower range, parallel to the former and to the coast, and 
which may be called the Coast Range. It also made nie well 
acquainted with the basin of the San Francisco bay, and with 
tl>e two pretty rivers and their valleys (the Sacramento and 
San Joa(|uin) which are tributary to that bay, and cleared up 
some points in geography on wiiich error had long prevailed. 
It had been constantly represented, as I have already stated, 
that the l)ay of San Francisco opened far into the interior, by 
some river coming down from the base of the Rocky mouQ- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 369 

tains, and upon which supposed stream the name of Rio Buena- 
ventura had been bestowed. Our observations of the Sierra 
Nevada, in the long distance from the head of the Sacramento, 
to the head of the San Joaquin, and of the valley below it, 
which collects all the waters of the San Francisco bay, show 
that this neither is nor can be the case. No river from the 
interior does, or can, cross the Sierra Nevada — itself more 
lofty than the Rocky mountains ; and as to the Buenaventura, 
the mouth of which seen on the coast gave the idea and the 
name of the reputed great river, it is, in fact, a small stream 
of no consequence, not only below the Sierra Nevada, but 
actually below the Coast Range — taking its rise within half a 
degree of the ocean, running parallel to it for about two de- 
grees, and then falling into the Pacific near Monterey. There 
is no opening from the bay of Sun Francisco into the interior 
of the continent. The two rivers which flow into it are com- 
paratively short, and not perpendicular to the coast, but lateral 
to it, and having their heads towards Oregon and southern 
California. They open lines of communication north and 
south, and not eastwardly ; and thus this want of interior com- 
munication from the San Francisco bay, now fully ascertained, 
gives great additional value to the Columbia, which stands 
alone as the only great river on the Pacific slope of our conti- 
nent which leads from the ocean to the Rocky mountains, and 
opens a line of communication from the sea to the valley of the 
Mississippi. 

Four companeros joined our guide at the pass ; and two go- 
ing back at noon, the others continued on in company. De- 
scending from the hills, we reached a country of fine grass, 
where the erodium cicutarium finally disappeared, giving place 
to an excellent quality of bunch-grass. Passing by some 
springs where there was a rich sward of grass among groves 
of large black-oak, we rode over a plain on which the guide 
pointed out a spot where a refugee Christian Indian had been 
killed by a party of soldiers which had unexpectedly pene- 
trated into the mountains. Crossing a low sierra, and descend- 
ing a hollow where a spring gushed out, we were struck by 
the sudden appearance of yucca trees, which gave a strange 



870 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

and southern character to the country, and suited well with the 
dry and desert region we were approaching. Associated with 
the idea of barrefi sands, their still' and ungraceful form makes 
them to the traveler the most repulsive tree in the vegetable 
kingdom. Following the hollow, we shortly came upon a 
creek timbered with large black-oak, which yet had not put 
forth a leaf. There was a small rivulet of running water, with 
^'ood frrass. 

15th. — The Indians who had accompanied tlie guide return- 
ed this morning, and I purchased from them a Spanish saddle 
and long spurs, as reminiscences of the time ; and for a few 
yards of scarlet cloth they gave me a horse, which afterwards 
became food for other Indians. 

We continued a short distance down the creek, in which our 
guide informed us that the water very soon disappeared, and 
turned directly to the southward along the foot of the moun- 
tain ; the trail on which we rode appearing to describe the 
eastern limit of travel, where water and grass terminated. 
Crossing a low spur, which bordered the creek, wc descended 
to a kind of plain among the lower spurs, the desei't being in 
full view on our left, apparently illimitable. A hot mist lay 
over it to-day, through which it had a white and glistening ap- 
pearance ; here and there a few dry-looking bullcs and isolated 
black ridges rose suddenly upon it. " There," said our guide, 
stretching out his hand towards it, " there are the great llanos, 
(plains,) no hay agiia ; no hay zacate — nada : there is neither 
water nor grass — nothing ; every animal that goes upon them, 
dies." It was indeed dismal to look upon, and to conceive so 
•Teat a change in so short a distance. One might travel the 
world over, without finding a valley more fresh and verdant — 
more floral and sylvan — more alive with birds and animals — 
more bounteously watered — than we had left in the San Joa- 
quin : here, within a few miles' ride, a vast desert plain 
spread hofire us, from which the boldest traveler turned awoy 
in despair. 

Directly in front of us, at some distance to the southward, 
and running out in an easterly direction from the mountains, 
stretched a sierra, having at the eastern cnii (perhaps "lO miles 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 371 

distant) some snowy peaks, on which; by the information of 
our guide, snow rested all the year. 

Our cavalcade made a strange and grotesque appearance ; 
and it was impossible to avoid reflecting upon our position and 
composition in this remote solitude. Within two degrees of 
the Pacific ocean — already far south of the latitude of Monte- 
rey — and still forced on south by a desert on one hand, and a 
mountain range on the other — guided by a civilized Indian, 
attended by two wild ones from the Sierra — a Chinook from 
the Columbia, and our mixture of American, French, German 
— all armed — four or five languages heard at once — above a 
hundred horses and mules, half wild — American, Spanish, and 
Indian dresses and equipments intermingled — such was our 
composition. Our march was a sort of procession. Scouts 
ahead and on the flanks ; a front and rear division ; the pack- 
animals, baggage, and horned-cattle in the centre ; and the 
whole stretching a quarter of a mile along our dreary path. 
In this form we journeyed, looking more as if we belonged to 
Asia than to the United States of America. 

We continued in a southerly direction across the plain, to 
which, as well as to all the country, so far as we could see, 
the yucca trees gave a strange and singular character. Several 
new plants appeared, among which was a zygophyllaceous 
shrub, [zygophyllum Calif ornicuni, Torr. and Frem.,) some- 
times ten feet in height ; in form, and in the pliancy of its 
branches, it is rather a graceful plant. Its leaves are small, 
covered with a resinous substance ; and, particularly when 
bruised and crushed, exhale a singular but very agreeable and 
refreshing odor. This shrub and the yucca, with many varie- 
ties of cactus, make the characteristic features in the vegeta- 
tion for a long distance to the eastward. Along the foot of the 
mountain, 20 miles to the southward, red stripes of flowers 
were visible during the morning, which we supposed to be va- 
riegated sandstones. We rode rapidly during the day, and in 
the afternoon emerged from the yucca forest at the foot of an 
outlier of the Sierra before us, and came among the fields of 
flowers we had seen in the morning, which consisted princi- 
pally of the rich orange-colored California poppy, mingled with 



372 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

othfT flowers of brighter tints. Reaching the top of the spur, 
which was covered with fine bunch-grass, and where the hills 
were very green, our guide pointed to a small hollow in the 
mountain before us, saying, "a este piedra hay agua." He 
appeared to know every nook in the country. We continued 
our beautiful road, and reached a spring in the slope at the 
foot of the ridge, running in a green ravine, among granite 
boulders ; here nightshade, and borders of buckwheat, with 
their white blossoms around the granite rocks, attracted our 
notice as familiar plants. Several antelopes were seen among 
the hills, and some large hares. Men were sent back this 
evening in search of a wild mule with a valuable pack, 
which had managed (as they frequently do) to hide itself along 
the road. 

By observation, the latitude of the camp is 34° 41' 42'% 
and longitude 118° 20' 00". The next day the men returned 
with the mule. 

17th. — Crossing the ridge by a beautiful pass of hollows, 
where several deer broke out of the thickets, we emerged at a 
small salt lake in a vallon lying nearly east and west, where a 
trail from the mission of San Buenaventura comes in. The 
lake is about 1,200 yards in diameter; surrounded on the 
margin by a white salty border, which, by the smell, reminded 
us slightly of Lake Abert. There are some cottonwoods, with 
willow and elder, around the lake ; and the water is a little 
salt, although not entirely unfit for drinking. Here we turned 
directly to the eastward along the trail, which, from being sel- 
dom used, is almost imperceptible ; and, after traveling a few 
miles, our guide halted, and, pointing to the hardly visible trail, 
*'aqui es camino,^' said he, " no se pierde — va siempre.'^ He 
pointed out a black bulte on the plain at the foot of the mount 
tain, whore we would find water to encamp at night ; and, 
giving him a present of knives and scarlet cloth, we shook 
hands and parted. He bore olf south, and in a Hay's rido 
would arrive at San Fernando, one of several missions in this 
part of California, where- the country is so beautiful that it is 
considered a paradise, and the name of its principal town 
{Fuclfla dc los Angeles) would make it angelic. We con- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative, 373 

tinued on through a succession of valleys, and came into a 
most beautiful spot of flower fields ; instead of green, the hills 
were purple and orange, with unbroken beds, into which each 
color was separately gathered. A pale straw-color, with u 
bright yellow, the rich red orange of the poppy mingled with 
fields of purple, covered the spot with a floral beauty ; and, 
on the border of the sandy deserts, seemed to invite the 
traveler to go no farther. Riding along through the per- 
fumed air, we soon after entered a defile overgrown with the 
ominous artemisia trideniata, which conducted us into a sandy 
plain covered more or less densely with forests of yucca. 

Having now the snowy ridge on our right, we continued our 
way towards a dark buite, belonging to a low sierra on the 
plain, and which our guide had pointed out for a landmark. 
Late in the day, the familiar growth of Cottonwood, a line of 
which was visible ahead, indicated our approach to a creek, 
which we reached where the water spread out into sands, and 
a little below sank entirely. Here our guide had intended we 
should pass the night ; but there was not a blade of grass, and, 
hoping to find nearer the mountain a little for the night, we 
turned up the stream. A hundred yards above, we found the 
creek a fine stream, sixteen feet wide, with a swift current. 
A dark night overtook us when we reached the hills at the 
foot of the ridge, and we were obliged to encamp without 
grass ; tying up what animals we could secure- in the dark- 
ness, the greater part of the wild ones having free range for 
the night. Here the stream was two feet deep, swift and 
clear, issuing from a neighboring snow peak. A few miles 
before reaching this creek, we had crossed a broad dry river- 
bed, which, nearer the hills, the hunters had found a bold and 
handsome stream. 

18th. — Some parties were engaged in hunting up the scat- 
tered horses, and others in searching for grass above ; both 
were successful, and late in the day we encamped among some 
spring-heads of the river, in a hollow which was covered with 
only tolerably good grasses, the lower ground being entirely 
overgrown with large bunches of the coarse stiff grass, {carex 
siichensis.) 

32 



374 cAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

Our latitude, by observation, was 34° 2T 03'^, and longi- 
tude 117^ 13' 00''. 

Traveling close along the mountain, we followed up, in the 
afternoon of tlie 19th, another stream, in hopes to find a grass- 
patch like that of the previous day, but were deceived ; except 
some scattered bunch-grass, there was nothing but rock and 
sand ; and even the fertility of the mountain seemed withered 
by the air of the desert. Among the few trees was the nut 
pine, (pinus monophyllus .) 

, Our road the next day was still in an easterly direction along 
the ridge, over very bad traveling ground, broken and con- 
founded with crippled trees and shrubs; and, after a difficult 
march of eighteen miles, a general shout announced that we 
had struck the great object of our search — the Spanish Trail 
— which here was running directly north. The road itself, 
and its course, were equally happy discoveries to us. Since 
the middle of December we had continually been forced south 
by mountains and by deserts, and now would have to make si.K 
degrees of northing, to regain the latitude on which we wished 
to cross the Rocky mountains. The course of the road, there- 
fore, was what we wanted ; and, once more, we felt like going 
homewards. A road to travel on, and the right course to go, 
were joyful consolations to us; and our animals enjoyed the 
beaten track like ourselves. Relieved from the rocks and 
brush, our wild mules started off at a rapid rate, anil in fifteen 
miles we reached a considerable river, timbered with cotton- 
wood and willow, where we found a bottom of tolerable grass. 
As the animals had suffered a great deal in the last few days, 
I rcmaine<l here all next day, to allow them the necessary re- 
pose ; and it was now necessary, at every favorable place, to 
make a little halt. Between us and the Colorado river we were 
aware that the country was extremely poor in grass, and scarce 
for water, there being u\^ny jornadas, (days' journey.) or long 
stretches of forty to sixty miles, without water, where the road 
was marked by bones of animals. 

Although in CalifJirnia we had met with people who had 
passed over this trail, we had been able to obtain no correct 
information about it ; and the greater part of what we had 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 375 

heard was found to be only a tissue of falsehoods. The rivers 
that we found on it were never mentioned, and others, particu- 
larly described in name and locality, were subsequently seen 
in another part of the country. It was described as a tolera- 
bly good sandy road, with so little rock as scarcely to require 
tlie animals to be shod ; and we found it the roughest and 
rockiest road we had ever seen in the country, and which 
nearly destroyed our band of fine mules and horses. Many 
animals are destroyed on it every year by a disease called the 
foot-evil ; and a traveler should never venture on it without 
having his animals well shod, and also carrying extra shoes. 

Latitude 34° 34' IV ; and longitude 1170 13' 00''. 

The morning of the 22d was clear and bright, and a snowy 
peak to the southward shone out high and sharply defined. As 
has been usual since we crossed the mountains and descended 
into the hot plains, we had a gale of wind. We traveled down 
the right bank of the stream, over sands which are somewhat 
loose, and have no verdure, but are occupied by various shrubs. 
A clear bold stream, 60 feet wide, and several feet deep, had a 
strange appearance, running between perfectly naked banks 
of sand. The eye, however, is somewhat relieved by willows, 
and the beautiful green of the sweet cottonwoods with which 
it is well wooded. As we followed along its course, the river, 
instead of growing constantly larger, gradually dwindled away, 
as it was absorbed by the sand. We were now careful to take 
the old camping-places of the annual Santa Fe caravans, 
which, luckily for us, had not yet made their yearly passage. 
A drove of several thousand horses and mules would entirely 
have swept away the scanty grass at the watering places, and 
we should have been obliged to leave the road to obtain sub- 
sistence for our animals. After riding 20 miles in a north- 
easterly direction, we found an old encampment, where we 
halted. 

By observation, the elevation of this encampment is 2,250 
feet. 

23d. — The trail followed still along the river, which, in the 
course of the morning, entirely disappeared. We continued 
along the dry bed, in which, after an interval of about 16 



376 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

miles, the water reappeared in some low places, well timbered 
with Cottonwood and willow, where was another of the cus- 
tomary camping-grounds. Here a party of six Indians came 
into camp, poor and hungry, and quite in keeping with the 
character of the country. Their arms were bows of unusual 
length, and each had a large gourd, strengthened with meshes 
of cord, in which he carried water. They proved to be the 
Mohahve Indians mentioned by our recent guide ; and from 
one of them, who spoke Spanish fluently, I obtained some in- 
teresting information, which I would be glad to introduce here. 
An account of the people inhabiting this region would un- 
doubtedly possess interest for the civilized world. Our jour- 
ney homewards was fruitful in incident ; and the country 
through which we traveled, although a desert, afforded much 
to excite the curiosity of the botanist ; but limited time, and 
the rapidly advancing season for active operations, oblige me 
to omit all extended descriptions, and hurry briefly to the con- 
clusion of this report. 

The Indian who spoke Spanish had been educated for a 
number of years at one of the Spanish missions, and, at the 
breaking up of those establishments, had returned to the moun- 
tains, where he had been found by a party of Mohahve (some- 
times called AmucTiaba) Indians, among whom he had ever 
since resided. 

He spoke of the leader of the present party as "mi amn" 
(my master.) He said they lived upon a large river in the 
southeast, which the "soldiers called the Rio Colorado;" but 
that, formerly, a portion of them lived upon this river, and 
among the mountains wliicli had bountlod the river valley to the 
northward during the day, and that here along the river they 
had raised various kinds of melons. They sometimes came 
over to trade with the Indians of the Sierra, bringing with 
them blankets and goods manufactured by the Monquis and 
other Colorado Indians. They rarely carried home horses, on 
account of the difliculty of getting them across the desert, and 
of guarding them afterwards from the Pa-utah Indians, who 
inhabit the Sierra, at the head of the Rio Vir^en, (river of the 
Virgin. 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 377 

He informed us that, a short distance below, this river 
finally disappeared. The two different portions in which wa- 
ter is found had received from the priests two different names ; 
and subsequently I heard it called by the Spaniards the Rio 
de las Animas, but on the map we have called it the Mohahve 
river. 

24th. — We continued down the stream (or rather its bed) 
for about eight miles, where there was water still in several 
holes, and encamped. The caravans sometimes continued be- 
low, to the end of the river, from which there is a very long 
Jornada of perhaps 60 miles, witliout water. Here a singular 
and new species of acacia, with spiral pods or seed-vessels, 
made its first appearance ; becoming henceforward, for a con- 
siderable distance, the characteristic tree. It was here com- 
paratively large, being about 20 feet in height, with a full 
and spreading top, the lower branches declining towards the 
ground. It afterwards occurred of smaller size, frequently in 
groves, and is very fragrant. It has been called by Dr. Tor- 
rey, spirolobium odoratum. The zygophyllaceous shrub had 
been constantly characteristic of the plains along the river ; 
and here, among many new plants, a new and very remarka- 
ble species of eriogonum (eriogonum injlatum, Tor. & Frem.) 
made its first appearance. 

Our cattle had become so tired and poor by this fatiguing 
traveling, that three of them were killed here, and the meat 
dried. The Indians had now an occasion for a great feast, 
and were occupied the remainder of the day and all night in 
cooking and eating. There was no part of the animal for 
which they did not find some use, except the bones. In the 
afternoon we were surprised by the sudden appearance in the 
camp of two Mexicans — a man and a boy. The name of the 
man was Andreas Fiientes ; and that of the boy, (a handsome 
lad, 11 years old,) Pablo Hernandez. They belonged to a 
party consisting of six persons, the remaining four being the 
wife of Fuentes, and the father and mother of Pablo, and San- 
tiago Giacome, a resident of New Mexico. With a cavalcade 
of about thirty horses, they had come out from Peubla de los 
Angeles, near the coast, under the guidance of Giacome, in 

32* 



378 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

advance of the great caravan, in order to travel more at leis- 
ure, and obtain better grass. Having advanced as lar into the 
desert as was considered consistent with their safety, they 
halted at the Archilctle, one of llie customary camping-grounds, 
about 80 miles from our encampment, where there is a spring 
of good water, with sufficient grass ; and concluded to await 
there the arrival of the great caravan. Several Indians were 
soon discovered lurking about the camp, who, in a day or two 
after, came in, and, after behaving in a very friendly manner, 
took their leave, without awakening any suspicions. Their 
deportment begat a security which proved fatal. In a few 
days afterwards, suddenly a party of about one hundred In- 
dians appeared in sight, advancing towards the camp. It was 
too late, or they seemed not to have presence of mind to take 
proper measures of safety ; and the Indians charged down into 
their camp, shouting as they advanced, and discharging flights 
of arrows. Pablo and Fucntcs were on horse-guard at the 
time, and mounted according to the custom of the country. 
One of the principal objects of tlie Indians was to get posses- 
sion of the horses, and part of them immediately surrounded 
the band ; but, in obedience to the shouts of Giacome, Feun- 
tes drove the animals over and through the assailants, in spite 
of their arrows ; and, abandoning the rest to their fate, carried 
them off" at speed across the plain. Knowing tliat they would 
be pursued by the Indians, without making any lialt except to 
shift their saddles to other horses, they drove them on for 
about sixty miles, and this morning left tliem at a watering- 
place on the trail, called Agua de Tomaso. Without giving 
tiicniselves any time for rest, they hurried on, hoping to meet 
the Spanisii caravan, when they discovered my camp. I re- 
ceived them kindly, taking them into my own mess, and pro- 
mised thorn such aiti as circumstances might put it in my 
power to give. 

2."itli. — \\'e lift the river abruptly, and, turning to the north, 
regained in a few miles the main trail, (wiiich had left the 
river sooner than ourselves,) and continued our way across a 
lower ridge of the mountain, through a miserable tract of sand 
and gravel. VVo crossed at intervals the broad beds of dry 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 379 

gullies, where in the seasons of rains and melting snows there 
would be brooks or rivulets ; and at one of these, where there 
was no indication of water, were several freshly-dug holes, in 
which there was water at the depth of two feet. These holes 
had been dug by the wolves, whose keen sense of smell had 
scented the water under the dry sand. They were nice little 
wells, narrow, and dug straight down ; and we got pleasant 
water out of them. 

The country had now assumed the character of an elevated 
and mountainous desert; its general features being black, 
rocky ridges, bald, and destitute of timber, with sandy basins 
between. Where the sides of these ridges are washed by gul- 
lies, the plains below are strewed with beds of large pebbles or 
rolled stones, destructive to our soft-footed animals, accustomed 
to the soft plains of the Sacramento valley. Through these 
sandy basins sometimes struggled a scanty stream, or occurred 
a hole of water, which furnished camping-grounds for travelers. 
Frequently in our journey across, snow was visible on the sur- 
rounding mountains ; but their waters rarely reached the sandy 
plain below, where we toiled along, oppressed with thirst and 
a burning sun. But, throughout this nakedness of sand and 
gravel, were many beautiful plants and flowering shrubs, which 
occurred in many new species, and with greater variety than 
we had been accustomed to see in the most luxuriant prairie 
countries ; this was a peculiarity of this desert. Even where 
no grass would take root, the naked sand would bloom with 
some rich and rare flower, which found its appropriate home in 
the arid and barren spot. 

Scattered over the plain, and tolerably abundant, was a hand- 
some leguminous shrub, three or four feet high, with fine bright 
purple flowers. It is a new psoralen, and occurred frequenily 
henceforward along our road. 

Beyond the first ridge, our road bore a little to the east of 
north, towards a gap in a higher line of mountains ; and, after 
traveling about 25 miles, we arrived at the Agiia de Tomaso — 
the spring where the horses had been left ; but, as we expected, 
they were gone. A brief examination of the ground convinced 
us that they had been driven off' by the Indians. Carson and 



380 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

Godey volunteered, with the Mexican, to pursue them ; and, 
well mounted, the three set off on the trail. At this stopping- 
place there are a few bushes, and a very little grass. Its 
water was a pool ; but near by was a spring, which had been 
dug out by Indians or travelers. Its water was cool — a great 
retVcshment to us under u burning sun. 

In the evening Fuentes returned, his horse having failed ; 
but Carson and Godey had continued the pursuit. 

I observed to-night an occultation of a2 Cancri, at the dark 
limb of the moon, which gives for the longitude of tlie place 
116° 23' 28'''; the latitude, by observation, is 35° 13' 08''. 
From Helvetia to this place, the positions along the intervening 
line are laid down, with the longitudes obtained from the chro- 
nometer, which appears to have retained its rate remarkably 
well ; but henceforward, to the end of our journey, the few 
longitudes given are absolute, depending upon a subsequent 
occultation and eclipses of the satellites. 

In the afternoon of the next day, a war-whoop was heard, 
such as Indians make when returning from a victorious enter- 
prise; and soon Carson and Godey appeared, driving before 
them a band of horses, recognised by Fuentes to be part of 
those they had lost. Two bloody scalps, dangling from the 
end of Godey's gun, announced that they had overtaken the In- 
dians as well as the horses. They informed us, that after 
Fuentes left them, from the failure of his horse, they continued 
the pursuit alone, and towards night-fall entered the mountains, 
into wliich the trail led. After sunset the moon gave light, 
and they followed the trail by moonshine until late in the night, 
when it entered a narrow defile, and was diflicult to follow. 
Afraid of losing it in the darkness of the defile, they tied up 
their horses, struck no fire, and lay down to sleep, in silence 
and in darkness. Here they lay from midnight until morning. 
At daylight they resumed the pursuit, and alxiut sunrise dis- 
covered the horses ; and, immediately dismounting and tving 
up their own, they crept cautiously to a rising ground which 
intervened, from the crest of which they perceived the encamp- 
ment of four lodges close by. They proceeded quietlv, and 
had got within 30 or 40 yards of their object, when a niove- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 381 

ment among the horses discovered them to the Indians. Giving 
the war-shout, they instantly charged into the camp, regardless 
of the number which the four lodges would imply. The In- 
dians received them with a flight of arrows shot from their long- 
bows, one of which passed through Godey's shirt-collar, barely 
missing the neck : our men fired their rifles upon a steady aim, 
and rushed in. Two Indians were stretched upon the ground, 
fatally pierced with bullets: the rest fled, except a little lad 
that was captured. The scalps of the fallen were instantly 
stripped ofl'; but in the process, one of them, who had two balls 
through his body, sprang to his feet, the blood streaming from 
his skinned head, and uttering a hideous howl. An old squaw, 
possibly his mother, stopped and looked back from the mountain- 
sides she was climbing, threatening and lamenting. The fright- 
ful spectacle appalled the stout hearts of our men ; but they did 
what humanity required, and quickly terminated the agonies 
of the gory savage. They were now masters of the camp, 
which was a pretty little recess in the mountain, with a fine 
spring, and apparently safe from all invasion. Great prepara- 
tions had been made to feast a large party, for it was a very 
proper place to rendezvous, and for the celebration of such 
orgies as robbers of the desert would delight in. Several of 
the best horses had been killed, skinned, and cut up ; for the 
Indians living in mountains, and only coming into the plains to 
rob and murder, make no other use of horses than to eat them. 
Large earthen vessels were on the fire, boiling and stewing 
the horse-beef; and several baskets, containing 50 or 60 pairs 
of moccasins, indicated the presence, or expectation, of a con- 
siderable party. They released the boy, who had given strong 
evidence of tlie stoicism, or something else, of the savage char- 
acter, in conunencing his breakfast upon a horse's head, as 
soon as he found he was not to be killed, but only tied as a 
prisoner. Their object accomplished, our men gathered up 
all the surviving horses, fifteen in number, returned upon their 
trail, and rejoined us, at our camp, in the afternoon of the same 
day. They had rode about 100 miles, in the pursuit and re- 
turn, and all in 30 hours. The time, place, object, and num- 
bers considered, this expedition of Carson and Godey may be 



382 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

considorod among the boldest and most disinterested which the 
annals of western adventure, so full of daring deeds, can present. 
Two men, in a savage desert, pursue day and night an unknown 
body of Indians, into the defile of an unknown mountain — attack 
them on sight, without counting numbers — and defeat them in 
an instant — and for what ? To punish the robbers of the 
desert, and to avenge the wrongs of Mexicans whom they did 
not know. I repeat : it was Carson and Godey who did this — 
the former an American, born in the Boonslick county of Mis- 
souri ; the latter a Frenchman, born in St. Louis, — and both 
trained to western enterprise from early life. 

By the information of Fuentes, we had now to make a long 
stretch of 40 or 50 miles across a plain which lay between us 
and the next possible camp j and we resumed our journey late 
in the afternoon, with the intention of traveling through the 
night, and avoiding the excessive heat of the day, which was 
oppressive to our animals. For several hours we traveled 
across a high plain, passing, at the opposite side, through a 
canon by the bed of a creek, running northwardly into a small 
lake beyond, and both of thorn being dry. We had a warm, 
moonshiny night ; and, traveling directly towards the north-star, 
we journeyed now across an open plain, between mountain- 
ridges — that on the left being broken, rocky, and bald, accord, 
ing to Carson and Godey, who had entered here in pursuit of 
the horses. The plain appeared covered principally with the 
zyaophyllum Ca/ifomicum, already mentioned ; and the line of 
our road was marked by the skeletons of horses, which were 
strewed to considerable breadth over the plain. We were al- 
ways warned on entering one of these long stretches, by the 
bones of these animals, which had perished before they could 
reach the water. About midnight we reached a considerable 
stream-bed, now dry — the discharge of the waters of this basin, 
(when it collected any) — down which we descended, in a 
northwesterly direction. The creek-bed was overgrown with 
shrubbery, and several hours betore day it brought us lo the 
entrance of a canon, where we found water, and encamped. 
This word canon is used by the Spaniards to signify a defile or 
gorge in a creek or river, where high rocks press in close, and 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 383 

make a narrow way, usually -difficult, and often impossible to 
be passed. 

In the morning we found that we had a very poor camping- 
ground — a swampy, salty spot, with a little long, unwholesome 
grass; and the water, which rose in springs, being useful only 
to wet the mouth, but entirely too salt to drink. All around 
was sand and rocks, and skeletons of horses which had not been 
able to find support for their lives. As we were about to start, 
we found, at the distance of a few hundred yards, among the 
hills to the southward, a spring of tolerably good water, which 
was a relief to ourselves ; but the place was too poor to remain 
long, and therefore we continued on this morning. On the 
creek were thickets of spirolobitim odoratum (acacia) in bloom, 
and very fragrant. 

Passing through the canon, we entered another sandy ba- 
sin, through which the dry stream-bed continued its north- 
westerly course, in wliieh direction appeared a high snowy 
mountain. 

We traveled through a barren district, where a heavy gale 
was blowing about the loose sand, and, after a ride of eight 
miles, reached a large creek of salt and bitter water, running 
in a westerly direction, to receive the stream-bed we had left. 
It is called by the Spaniards Amargosa — the bitter-water of 
the desert. Where we struck it, the stream bends ; and we 
continued in a northerly course up the ravine of its valley, 
passing on the way a fork from the right, near which occurred 
a bed of plants, consisting of a remarkable new genus of cru- 
dfercR. 

* Gradually ascending, the ravine opened into a green valley, 
where, at the foot of the mountain, were springs of excellent 
water. We encamped among groves of the new acacia, and 
there was an abundance of good grass for the animals. 

This was the best camping-ground we had seen since we 
struck the Spanish trail. The day's journey was about twelve 
miles. 

29th. — To-day we had to roach the Archilette, distant seven 
miles, where the Mexican party had becr^ attacked, and, leav- 
ing our encampment early, we traversed a part of the desert 



384 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [April, 

the most sterile and repulsive we had yet seen. Its prominent 
features were dark sierras, naked and dry ; on tiie plains a 
few straggling shrubs — among them, cactus of several varie- 
ties. Fuentes pointed out one called by the Spaniards bistiada, 
which has u juicy pulp, slightly acid, and is eaten by the trav- 
eler to allay thirst. Our course was generally north ; and, 
after crossing an intervening ridge, we descended into a sandy 
plain, or basin, in the middle of which was the grassy spot, 
with its springs and willow bushes, which constitutes a camp- 
ing-pluce in the desert, and is called the Archilelte. The dead 
silence of the place was ominous ; and, galloping rapidly up, 
we found only the corpses of the two men : every thing else 
was gone. They were naked, mutilated, and pierced with ar- 
rows. Hernandez had evidently fought, and with desperation. 
He lay in advance of the willow half-faced tent, which shelter, 
ed his family, as if he had come out to meet danger, and to re- 
pulse it from that asylum. One of his hands, and both his legs, 
had been cut off. Giacome, who w5s a large and strong-look- 
ing man, was lying in one of tli^ willow shelters, pierced with 
arrows. 

Of the women no trace could be found, and it was evident 
they had been carried off captive. A little lap-dog, which had 
belonged to Pablo's mother, remained with the dead bodies, and 
was frantic with joy at seeing Pablo ; he, poor child, was fran- 
tic wiili grief, and filhd the air with lamentations for his father 
and n)otlicr. Ali Padre ! Mi Madre ! — was his incessant 
cry. When we beheld this pitiable sight, and pictured to our- 
selves the fate of the two women, carried off by savages so 
brutal and so loathsome, all compunction for the scalped-alive 
Indian ceased ; and we rejoiced that Carson and Godey had 
been able to give so useful a lesson to these American Arabs, 
who lie in wait to murder and plunder the innocent traveler. 

We wore all loo much alfected by the sad feelings which the 
place inspired, to remain an uimecessary moment. The night 
we were obliged to pass there. Early in the morning we left 
it, having first written a brief account of what had happened, 
and put it in the clefj of a pole planted at the spring, that the 
approaching caravan might learn the fate of their friends. In 



1844.] CAPT. fkemoivt's narrative. 385 

commemoration of the event, we called the place Ague de Her- 
nandez — Hernandez's spring. By observation, its latitude was 
35° 5V 2V\ 

30th. — We continued our journey over a district similar to 
that of" the day before. From the sandy basin, in which was 
the spring, we entered another basin of the same character, 
surrounded everywhere by mountains. Before us stretched a 
high range, rising still higher to the left, and terminating in a 
snowy mountain. 

After a day's march of 24 miles, we reached at evening the 
bed of a stream from which the water had disappeared, a little 
only remaining in holes, which we increased by digging ; 
and about a mile above, the stream, not yet entirely sunk, 
was spread out over the sands, afl'ording a little water for the 
animals. The stream came out of the mountains on the left, 
very slightly wooded with cottonwood, willow, and acacia, and 
a few dwarf-oaks ; and grass was nearly as scarce as water. 
A plant with showy yellow flowers {Sianleya integrifolia) oc- 
curred abundantly at intervals for the last two days, and eriogo- 
num injlatum was among the characteristic plants. 



MAY. 

1st. — The air is rough, and overcoats pleasant. The sky is 
blue, and the day bright. Our road was over a plain, towards 
the foot of the mountain ; zygophyllum Californicum, now in 
bloom, with a small yellow flower, is characteristic of the 
country ; and cacti were very abundant, and in rich fresh 
bloom, which wonderfully ornaments this poor country. We 
encamped at a spring in the pass, which had been the site of 
an old village. Here we found excellent grass, but very little 
water. We dug out the old spring, and watered some of our 
animals. The mountain here was wooded very slightly with 
the nut-pine, cedars, and a dwarf species of oak ; and among 
the shrubs were Purshia tridentata, artemisia, and ephedra oc- 
cidentalis. The numerous shrubs which constitute the vege- 

33 



386 cAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

tation of the plains are now in bloom, with flowers of white, 
yellow, red, and purple. The continual rocks, and want of 
water and grass, began to be very hard on our mules and 
horses ; but the principal loss is occasioned by their crippled 
feet, the greater part of those left being in excellent order, and 
scarcely a day passes without some loss ; and, one by one, 
Fucntes' horses are constantly dropping behind. Whenever 
they give out, he dismounts and cuts off their tails and manes, 
to make saddle-girths — the last advantage one can gain from 
them. 

The next day, in a short but rough ride of 12 miles, we 
crossed the mountain ; and, descending to a small valley plain, 
encamped at the foot of the ridge, on the bed of a creek, and 
found good grass in sufficient quantity, and abundance ot water 
in holes. The ridge is extremely rugged and broken, present- 
ing on this side a continued precipice, and probably alfords very 
few passes. Many digger tracks were seen around us, but no 
Indians were visible. 

3d. — After a day's journey of 18 miles, in a northeasterly 
direction, we encamped in the midst of another very large 
basin, at a camping ground called las Vegas — a term which 
the Spaniards use to signify fertile or marshy plains, in con- 
tradistinction to llanos, which they apply to dry and sterile 
plains. Two narrow streams of clear water, four or five foet 
deep, gush suddenly, with a quick current, from two singularly 
large springs ; these, and other waters of the basin, pass out in 
a gap to the eastward. The taste of the water is good, but 
rather too warm to be agreeable ; the temperature being 71° 
in the one, and 73° in the other. They, however, atlord a de- 
lightful bathing-place. 

4th. — We started this morning earlier than usual, traveling 
in a northeasterly direction across the plain. The new acacia 
{spirolohiinn odoratttm) has now become the characteristic tree 
of the country ; it is in bloom, and its blossoms are very fra- 
grant. The (lay was still, and the heat, which soon became very 
oppressive, appeared to bring out strongly the refreshing .scent 
of the zygophyllaceous shrubs and the sweet perfume of the 
acacia. The snowy ridge we had just crcssed looked out con- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 387 

spicuously in the northwest. In about five hours' ride, we 
crossed a gap in the surrounding ridge, and the appearance of 
skeletons of horses very soon warned us that we were engaged 
in another dry jomada, which proved the longest we had made 
in all our journey — between fifty and sixty miles without a 
drop of water. 

Travelers through countries affbrdinir water and timber can 
have no conception of our intolerable thirst while journeying 
over the hot yellow sands of this elevated country, where the 
heated air seems to be entirely deprived of moisture. We ate 
occasionally the hisnada, and moistened our mouths with the 
acid of the sour dock, {rumex venosus.) Hourly expecting to 
find water, we continued to press on until towards midnight, 
when, after a hard and uninterrupted march of 16 hours, our 
wild mules began running ahead ; and in a mile or two we 
came to a bold running stream — so keen is the sense of that ani- 
mal, in these desert regions, in scenting at a distance this 
necessary of life. 

According to the information we had received, Sevier river 
was a tributary of the Colorado; and this, accordingly, should 
have been one of its affluents. It proved to be the Rio de los 
Angeles, (river of the Angels) — a branch of the Rio Virgen, 
(river of the Virgin.) 

5th. — On account of our animals, it was necessary to remain 
to-day at this place. Indians crowded numerously around us 
in the morning ; and we were obliged to keep arms in liand all 
day, to keep them out of the camp. They began to surround 
the horses, which, for the convenience of grass, we were guard- 
ing a little above, on the river. These were immediately driven 
in, and kepl^close to the camp. 

In the darkness of the night we had made a very bad en- 
campment, our fires being commanded by a rocky bluff within 
50 yards ; but, notwithstanding, we had the river and small 
thickets of willows on the other side. Several times during 
the day the camp was insulted by the Indians ; but, peace 
being our object, I kept simply on the defensive. Some of the 
Indians were on the bottoms, and others haranguing us from 
the bluffs ; and they were scattered in every direction over the 



38fl CAFT. Fremont's narrative. [Mav, 

hills. Their language being probably a dialect of the Utah, 
with the aid of signs some of our people could comprehend 
them very well. They were the same people who had mur- 
dered the Mexicans ; and towards us their disposition was 
evidently hostile, nor were we well disposed towards them. 
They were barefooted, and nearly naked ; their hair gathered 
up into a knot behind ; and with his bow, each man carried a 
quiver with thirty or forty arrows partially drawn out. Be- 
sides these, each held in his hand two or three arrows for in- 
stant service. Their arrows are barbed with a very clear 
translucent stone, a species of opal, nearly as hard as the dia- 
mond ; and, shot from their long bow, are almost as effective 
as a gunshot. In these Indians, I was forcibly struck by an 
expression of countenance resembling that in a beast of prey ; 
and all their actions are those of wild animals. Joined to the 
restless motion of the eye, there is a want of mind — an absence 
of thought — and an action wholly by impulse, strongly ex- 
pressed, and which constantly recalls the similarity. 

A man who appeared to be a chief, with two or three others, 
forced himself into the camp, bringing with him his arms, in 
spite of my orders to the contrary. When shown our weap- 
ons, he bored his ear with his fingers, and said he could not 
hear. " Why,'* said he, "there are none of you." Counting 
the people around the camp, and including in the number a 
mule that was being shod, he made out 22. "So many,'" said 
he, showing the number, "and we — we are a great many ;" 
and he pointed to the hills and mountains round about. " If 
you have your arms," said he, twanging his bow, " we have 
thrse." I had some difiiculty in restraining the people, partic- 
ularly Carson, who felt an insult of this kind as much as if it 
had been given by a more responsible being. " Don't say that, 
old man," said he ; " don't you say that — your life's in danger" 
— s[)caking in good Kiiglish ; and probably the old man was 
nearer to his end than lie will be before he meets it. 

Several animals had been necessarily left behind near the 
camp last night ; and early in the morning, before the Indians 
mailc their appearance, several men were sent to bring them 
in. When 1 was beginning to be uneasy at their absence, they 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 389 

returned with information that they had been driven ofl' from 
the trail by Indians ; and, having followed the tracks in a 
short distance, they found the animals cut up and spread out 
upon bushes. In the evening I gave a fatigued horse to some 
of the Indians for a feast ; and the village which carried him 
off refused to share with the others, who made loud complaints 
from the rocks of the partial distribution. Many of these In- 
dians had long sticks, hooked at the end, which they use in 
hauling out lizards, and other small animals, from their holes. 
During the day they occasionally roasted and ate lizards at our 
fires. These belong to the people who are generally known 
under the name of Diggers ; and to these I have more partic- 
ularly had reference when occasionally speaking of a people 
whose sole occupation is to procure food sufficient to support 
existence. The formation here consists of fine yellow sand- 
stone, alternating with a coarse conglomerate, in which the 
stones are from the size of ordinary gravel lo six or eight inches 
in diameter. This is the formation which renders the surface 
of the country so rocky, and gives us now a road alternately 
of loose heavy sands and rolled stones, which cripple the ani- 
mals in a most extraordinary manner. 

On the following morning we left the Rio de los Angeles, 
and continued our way through the same desolate and revolt- 
ing country, where lizards were the only animal, and the tracks 
of the lizard eaters the principal sign of human beings. After 
twenty miles' march through a road of hills and heavy sands, 
we reached the most dreary river I have ever seen — a deep 
rapid stream, almost a torrent, passing swiftly by, and roaring 
against obstructions. The banks were wooded with willow, 
acacia, and a frequent plant of the country already mentioned, 
[Garrya elliptica,) growing in thickets, resembling willow, and 
bearing a small pink flower. Crossing it we encamped on the 
left bank, where we found a very little grass. Our three re- 
maining steers, being entirely given out, were killed here. By 
the boiling point, the'elevation of the river here is 4,060 feet; 
and latitude, by observation, 36° 41'' 33''^. The stream was 
running towards the southwest, and appeared to come from a 
snowy mountain in the north. It proved to be the Rio Virgen 

33* 



390 CAHT. Fremont's narhative. [May, 

— a tributary to the Colorado. Indians appeared in bands on 
the liills, but did not come into camp. For several days we 
continued our journey up the river, the bottoms of which were 
thickly overgroivn with various kinds of brush ; and the sandy 
soil was absolutely covered with the tracks of Diggers, who 
followed us stealthily, like a band of wolves ; and we had no 
opportunity to leave behind, even for a few hours, the tired 
animals, in order that they might be brought into camp after a 
little rt'pose. A horse or mule, left behind, was taken off in a 
moment. On the evening of the 8tii, having traveled '2S miles 
up the river from our first encampment on it, we encamped at 
a little grass-plat, where a spring of cool water issued from the 
bluir. On the opposite side was a grove of cotton woods at the 
mouth of a fork, which here enters the river. On either side 
the valley is bounded by ranges of mountains, everywhere 
high, rocky, and broken. The caravan road was lost and 
scattered in the sandy country, and we had been following an 
Indian trail up the river. The hunters the next day were sent 
out to reconnoitre, and in tlie mean time we moved about a mile 
farther up^ where we found a good little patch of grass. There 
being only sufficient grass for the night, the horses were sent 
with a strong guard in charge of Tabeau to a neighboring hol- 
low, where they might pasture during the day ; and, to be 
ready in case the Indians should make any attempt on the an- 
imals, several of the best horses were picketed at the camp. 
In a few hours the hunters returned, having found a convenient 
ford in the river, and discovered the Spanish trail on the other 
side. 

I had been engaged in arranging plants ; and, fatigued with 
the heat of the day, I fell asleep in the afternoon, and did not 
awake until sundown. Presently Carson came to me, and report- 
ed that Tabeau, who early in the day had left his post, and, 
without my knowledge, rode back to the camp we had left, in 
search of a laiDe mule, had not returned. While we were 
speaking, a smoke rose suddenly from the cottonwood grove 
below, which plainly told us what had befallen him ; it was 
raised to inform the surrounding Indians that a blow had been 
struck, and to tell them to be on their guard. Carson, with 



1844.] - CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 391 

several men well mounted, was instantly sent down the river, 
but returned in the night without tidings of the missing man. 
They went to the camp we had left, but neither he nor the mule 
was there. Searching down the river, they found the tracks of 
the mule, evidently driven along by Indians, whose tracks were 
on each side of those made by the animal. After going several 
miles, they came to the mule itself, standing in some bushes, 
mortally wounded in the side by an arrow, and left to die, that 
it might be afterwards butchered for food. They also found, in 
another place, as they were hunting about on the ground for 
Tabeau's tracks, something that looked like a little puddle of 
blood, but which the darkness prevented them from verify- 
ing. With these details they returned to our camp, and their 
report saddened all our hearts. 

10th. — This morning, as soon as there was light enough to 
follow tracks, I set out myself, with Mr. Fitzpatrick and several 
men, in search of Tabeau. We went to the spot where ihe 
appearance of puddled blood had been seen ; and this, we saw 
at once, had been the place where he fell and died. Blood 
upon the leaves, and beaten-down bushes, showed that he had 
got his wound about twenty paces from where he fell, and thai 
he had struggled for his life. He had probably been shot 
through the lungs with an arrow. From the place where he 
lay and bled, it could be seen that he had been dragged to the 
river bank, and thrown into it. No vestige of what had be- 
longed to him could be found, except a fragment of his horse 
equipment. Horse, gun, clothes — all became the prey of 
these Arabs of the New World. 

Tabeau had been one of our best men, and his unhappv 
death spread a gloom over our party. Men, who. have gone 
through such dangers and sufi'erings as we had seen, become 
like brotliers, and feel each other's loss. To defend and 
avenge each other, is the deep feeling of all. We wished lt> 
avenge his death ; but the condition of our horses, languish- 
ing for grass and repose, forbade an expedition into unknown 
mountains. We knew the tribe who had done the mischief — 
the same which had been insulting our camp. They knew 
what they deserved, and had the discretion to show them- 



392 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

selves to us no more. The day before, they infested our 
catnp ; now, not one appeared ; nor did we ever afterwards 
see but one who even belonged to the same tribe, and ho at a 
distance. 

Our camp was in a basin below a deep canon — a gap of 
two thousand feet deep in the mountain — through which the 
Rio Virgen passes, and where no man or beast could follow 
it. The Spanish trail, which we had lost in the sands of the 
basin, was on the opposite side of the river. We crossed over 
to it, and followed it northwardly towards a gap which was 
visible in the mountain. We approached it by a delile, ren- 
dered difficult for our barefooted animals by the rocks strewed 
along it ; and here the country changed its character. From 
the time we entered the desert, the mountains had been bald 
and rocky ; here they began to be wooded with cedar and 
pine, and clusters of trees gave shelter to birds — a new and 
welcome sight — which could not have lived in the desert we 
had passed. 

Descending a long hollow, towards the narrow valley of a 
stream, we saw before us a snowy mountain, far beyond which 
appeared another more lofty still. Good bunch-grass began to 
appear on the hill-sides, and here we found a singular variety 
of interesting shrubs. The changed appearance of the coun- 
try infused among our people a more lively spirit, which was 
heiglitened by finding at evening a halting-place of very good 
grass on the clear waters of the Santa Clara furk of the Rio 
Virgen. 

11th. — The morning was cloudy and (juite cool, with a 
shower of rain — the first wo have had since entering the desert, 
a period of 27 days — and we seem to have entered a dillerent 
climate, with the usual weather of the Rocky mountains. Our 
march to-day was very laborious, over very broken ground, 
along the Santa Clara river ; but then the country is no longer 
so distressingly desolate. The stream is prettily woodod with 
sweet Cottonwood trees — some of them of large size ; and on 
the hills, where the nut-pine is often seen, a good and whole- 
some grass occurs frequently. This cottonwood, which is 
now in fruit, is of a dillerent species from any in Miehau.x's 



1644.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 393 

Sylva. Heavy dark clouds covered the sky in the evening, 
and a cold wind sprang up, making fires and overcoats coid- 
fortable. 

12th. — A little above our encampment the river forked, and 
we continued up the right-hand branch, gradually ascending 
towards the summit of the mountain. As we rose towards the 
head of the creek, the snowy mountains on our right showed 
out handsomely — high and rugged, with precipices, and cov- 
ered with snow for about two thousand feet from their summits 
down. Our animals were somewhat repaid for their hard 
marches by an excellent camping-ground on the summit of the 
ridge, which forms here the dividing chain between the waters 
of the Rio Virgen, which goes south to the Colorado, and those 
of Sevier river, flowing northwardly, and belonging to the 
Great Basin. We considered ourselves as crossing the rim of 
the basin ; and, entering it at this point, we found here an ex- 
tensive mountain meadow, rich in bunch-grass, and fresh with 
numerous springs of clear water, all refreshing and delightful 
to look upon. It was, in fact, that las Vegas de Santa Clara, 
which had been so long presented to us as the terminating 
point of the desert, and where the annual caravan from Cali- 
fornia to New Mexico halted and recruited for some weeks. 
It wcs a very suitable place to recover from the fatigue and 
exhaustion of a month's suffering in the hot and sterile desert. 
The meadow was about a mile wide, some ten miles long, bor- 
dered by grassy hills and mountains — some of the latter rising 
two thousand feet, and white with snow down to the level of 
the vegas. Its elevation above the sea was 5,280 feet ; lati- 
tude, by observation, 37? 28^ 28'^ ; and its distance from where 
we first struck the Spanish trail about 400 miles. Counting 
from the time we reached the desert, and began to skirt, at our 
descent from Walker's Pass in the Sierra Nevada, we had 
traveled .550 miles, occupying 27 days, in that inhospitable 
region. In passing before the Great Caravan, we had the ad- 
vantage of finding more grass, but the disadvantage of finding 
also the marauding savages, who had gathered down upon the 
trail, waiting tiie approach of that prey. This greatly in- 
creased our labors, besides costing us the life of an excellent 



394 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

man. We had to move all day in a state of watch, and pre- 
pared for combat — scouts and flankers out, a front and rear 
division of our men, and baggage-animals in the centre. At 
night, camp duty was severe. Those who had toiled all day, 
had to guard, by turns, the camp and the horses, all night. 
Frequently one-third of the whole party were on guard at 
once ; and nothing but this vigilance saved us from attack. 
We were constantly dogged by bands, and even whole tribes 
of marauders ; and although Tabeau was killed, and our camp 
infested and insulted by some, while swarms of them remained 
on the hills and mountain-sides, there was manifestly a con- 
sultation and calculation going on, to decide the question of 
attacking us. Having reached the resting-place of the Vegas 
de Santa Clara, we had complete relief from the heat and pri- 
vations of the desert, and some relaxation from the severity of 
camp duty. Some relaxation, and relaxation only — for camp- 
guards, horse-guards, and scouts, are indispensable from the 
time of leaving the frontiers of Missouri until we return to 
them. 

After we left the Vegas, we had the gratification to be joined 
by the famous hunter and trapper, Mr. Joseph Walker, whom 
I have before mentioned, and who now became our guide. He 
had left California with the great caravan ; and perceiving, 
from the signs along the trail, that there was a party of whites 
ahead, which he judged to be mine, he detached himself from 
the caravan, with eight men, (Americans,) and ran the gaunt- 
let of the desert robbers, killing two, and getting some of the 
horses wounded, and succeeded in overtaking us. Nothing but 
his great knowledge of the country, great courage and pres- 
ence of mind, and good rifles, could have brought him safe 
from such a perilous enterprise. 

13th. — We remained one day at this noted place of rest and 
refreshment ; and, resuming our progress in a northwestward- 
ly dirfctioM, we descended into a broad valley, the water of 
whicii is tributary to Sevier lake. The next day we came in 
sight of the Wahsntch range of mountains on the right, white 
with snow, and hero forming the southeast part of the Great 
Basin. Sevier lake, upon the waters of which we now were, 



1944.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 395 

belonged to the system of lakes in the eastern part of the Basin 
— of which, the Great Salt lake, and its southern limh, the Utah 
lake, were the principal — towards the region of which we 
were now approaching. We traveled for several days in this 
direction, within the rim of the Great Basin, crossing little 
streams which bore to the left for Sevier lake ; and plainly 
seeing, by the changed aspect of the country, that we were 
entirely clear of the desert, and approaching the regions which 
appertained to the system of the Rocky mountains. We 
met, in this traverse, a few mounted Utah Indians, in advance 
of their main body, watching the approach of the great 
caravan. 

16tli. — We reached a small salt lake, about seven miles 
long and one broad, at the northern extremity of which we en- 
camped for the night. This little lake, which well merits its 
characteristic name, lies immediately at the base of the Wah- 
satch range, and nearly opposite a gap in that chain of moun- 
tains through which the Spanish trail passes ; and which, 
again falling upon the waters of the Colorado, and crossing 
that river, proceeds over a mountainous country to Santa Fe. 

ITtli. — After 440 miles of traveling on a trail, which served 
for a road, we again found ourselves under the necessity 
of exploring a track through the wilderness. The Spanish 
trail had borne off to the southeast, crossing the Wah-satch 
range. Our course led to the northeast, along the foot of 
that range, and leaving it on the right. The mountain pre- 
sented itself to us under the form of several ridges, rising one 
above the other, rocky, and wooded with pine and cedar ; the 
last ridge covered with snow. Sevier river, flowing north- 
wardly to the lake of the same name, collects its principal wa- 
ters from this section of the Wah-satch chain. We had now 
entered a region of great pastoral promise, abounding with fine 
streams, the rich bunch-grass, soil that would produce wheat, 
and indigenous flax growing as if it had been sown. Consist- 
ent with the general character of its bordering mountains, this 
fertility of soil and vegetation does not extend far into \he Great 
Basin. Mr. Joseph Walker, our guide, and who has more 
knowledge of these parts than any man I know, informed me 



396 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [Mat, 

ihat all the country to the left was unknown to him, and that 
even the Digger tribes, which frequented Lake Sevier, could 
tell him nothing about it. 

•JOth. — We met a band of Utah Indians, headed by a well- 
known chief, who had obtained the American or English name 
of Walker, by which he is quoted and well known. They 
were all mounted, armed with rifles, and used their rifles well. 
The chief had a fusee, which he carried slung, in addition to 
his rifle. They were journeying slowly towards the Spanish 
trail, to levy their usual tribute upon the great California cara- 
van. They were robbers of a higher order than those of the 
desert. They conducted their depredations with form, and 
under the color of trade and toll, for passing through their 
country. Instead of attacking and killing, they atlect to pur- 
chase — taking the horses they like, and giving something nom- 
inal in return. The chief was quite civil to me. He was 
personally acquainted with his namesake, our guide, who 
made my name known to him. He knew of my expedition 
of 1842; and, as tokens of friendship, and proof that we had 
met, proposed an interchange of presents. We had no great 
store to choose out of; so he gave me a Mexican blanket, 
and I gave him a very flne one which I had obtained at Van- 
couver. 

23d. — We reached Sevier river — the main tributary of the 
lake of the same name — which, deflecting from its northern 
course, here breaks from the mountains to enter the lake. It 
was really a fine river, from eight to twelve feet deep ; and 
after searching in vain for a fordable place, we made little 
boats (or rather rafts) out of bulrushes, and ferried across. 
These rafts are readily made, and give a good conveyance 
across a river. The rushes are bound in bundles, and tied 
hard ; the bundles are tied down upon poles, as close as they 
can be pressed, and fashioned like a boat, in being broader in 
the middle and pointed at the ends. The rushes, being tubular 
and jointed, are light and strong. The raft swims well, and 
is shoved along by poles, or paddled, or pushed and pulled by 
swimmers, or drawn by ropes. On this occasion, we used 
ropes — one at each end — and rapidly drew our little float 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 397 

backwards and forwards from shore to shore. The horses 
swam. At our place of crossing, which was the most north- 
ern point of its bend, the latitude was 39° 22'' 19^^ The 
banks sustained the character for fertility and vegetation 
wliich we had seen for some days. The name of this river 
and lake was an indication of our approach to regions of 
which our people had been the explorers. It was probably 
named after some American trapper or hunter, and was the 
first American name we had met with since leaving the Co- 
lumbia river. From the Dalles to the point where we turned 
across the Sierra Nevada, near 1,000 miles, we heard Indian 
names, and the greater part of the distance none ; from Nueva 
Helvetia (Sacramento) to las Vegas de Santa Clara, about 
1,000 more, all were Spanish ; from the Mississippi to the Pa- 
cific, French and American or English were intermixed ; and 
this prevalence of names indicates the national character of the 
first explorers. 

We had here the misfortune to lose one of our people, Fran- 
cois Badeau, who had been with me on both expeditions; dur- 
ing which he had always been one of my most faithful and 
efficient men. He was killed in drawing towards him a gun 
by the muzzle ; the hammer being caught, discharged the gun, 
driving the ball through his head. We buried him on the 
banks of the river. 

Crossing the next day a slight ridge along the river, we en- 
tered a handsome mountain valley covered with fine grass", and 
directed our course towards a high snowy peak, at the foot of 
which lay the Utah lake. On our right was a bed of high 
mountains, their summits covered with snow, constituting the 
dividing ridge between the Basin waters and those of the Colo- 
rado. At noon we full in with a party of Utah Indians com- 
ing out of the mountain, and in the afternoon encamped on a 
tributary to the lake, which is separated from the waters of the 
Sevier by very slight dividing grounds. 

Early the next day we came in sight of the lake ; and, as 
we descended to the broad bottoms of the Spanish fork, three 
horsemen were seen galloping towards us, who proved to be 
Utah Indians — scouts from a village, which was encamped 

34 



398 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

near the mouth of the river. They were armed with rifles, 
and their horses were in good condition. We encamped near 
them, on the Spanish fork, which is one of the principal tribu- 
taries to the lake. Finding the Indians troublesome, and de- 
sirous to remain here a day, we removed the next morning 
farther down the lake and encamped on a fertile bottom near 
the foot of the same mountainous ridge which borders the 
Great Salt lake, and along which we had journeyed the pre- 
vious September. Here the principal plants in bloom were 
two, which were remarkable as affording to the Snake Indians 
— the one an abundant supply of food, and the other the most 
useful among the applications which they use for wounds. 
These were the kooyah plant, growing in fields of e.xtraordinary 
luxuriance, and convollaria steUat/i, M-hich, from the experience 
of Mr. Walker, is the best remedial plant known among these 
Indians. A few miles below us was another village of Indians, 
from which we obtained some fish — among them a few salmon 
trout, which were very much inferior in size to those along the 
Californian mountains. The season for taking them had not 
yet arrived ; but the Indians were daily expecting them to come 
up out of the lake. 

We had now accomplished an object we had in view when 
leaving the Dalles of the Columbia in November last : we had 
reached the Utah lake ; but by a route very different from the 
one we had intended, and without sufficient time remaining to 
make the examinations which we desired. It is a lake of note 
in this country, under the dominion of the Utahs, who resort 
to it for fish. Its greatest breadth is about fifteen miles, stretch- 
ing far to the north, narrowing as it goes, and connecting with 
the (ireat Salt lake. This is the report, which I believe to 
be correct ; but it is fresh water, while the other is not only salt, 
but a saturated solution of salt; and here is a problem which 
requires to be solved. It is almost entirely surrounded by 
mountains, walled on the north and east by a high and snowy 
range, which supplies to it a fan of tributary streams. Among 
these, the principal river is the Timpan-ogo — signifying Rock 
river — a name which the rocky grandeur of its scenery, re- 
markable €ven in this country of rugged mountains, has 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 399 

obtained for it from the Indians. In the Utah language, og- 
loah-be, the term for river, when coupled with other words in 
common conversation, is usually abbreviated to ogo ; timpan 
signifying rock. It is probable that this river furnished the 
name which on the older maps has been generally applied to 
the Great Salt lake ; but for this I have preferred a name 
which will be regarded as highly characteristic, restricting 
to the river the descriptive term Timpan-ogo, and leaving 
for the lake into which it flows the name of the people who 
reside on its shores, and by which it is known throughout the 
country. 

The volume of w-ater afforded by the Timpan-ogo is proba- 
bly equal to that of the Sevier river ; and, at the time of our 
visit, there was only one place in the lake-valley at which 
the Spanish fork was fordable. In the cove of the mountains 
along its eastern shore, the lake is bordered by a plain, where 
the soil is generally good, and in greater part fertile ; watered 
by a delta of prettily timbered streams. This would be an 
excellent locality for stock-farms ; it is generally covered with 
good bunch-grass, and would abundantly produce the ordinary 
grains. 

In arriving at the Utah lake, we had completed an immense 
circuit of twelve degrees diameter north and south, and ten 
degrees east and west ; and found ourselves, in May, 1844, on 
the same sheet of water wiiich we had left in September, L843. 
The Utah is the southern limb of the Great Salt lake ; and 
thus we had seen that remarkable sheet of water both at its 
northern and southern extremity, and were able to fix its posi- 
tion at these two points. The circuit which we had made, 
and which had cost us eight months of time, and 3,500 miles 
of traveling, had given us a view of Oregon and of North 
California from the Rocky mountains to the Pacific ocean, and 
of the two principal streams which form bays or harbors on 
the coast of that sea. Having completed this circuit, and be- 
ing now about to turn the back upon the Pacific slope of our 
continent, and to recross the Rocky mountains, it is natural to 
look back upon our footsteps, and take some brief view of the 
leading features and general structure of the country we had 



400 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

traversed. These are peculiar and striking, and difTir essen- 
tially from the Atlantic side of the country. The mountains 
all are higher, more numerous, and more distinctly defined in 
their ranges and directions; and, what is so contrary to the 
natural order of formations, one of these ranges, which is near 
the coast, (the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range,) presents 
higher elevations and peaks than any which are to be found 
in the Rocky mountains themselves. In our eight months' 
circuit, we were never out of sight of snow ; and the Sierra 
Nevada, where we crossed it, was near 2,000 feet higher than 
the South Pass in the Rocky mountains. In heigiit, these 
mountains greatly exceed those of the Atlantic side, constantly 
presenting peaks which enter the region of eternal snow ; and 
some of them volcanic, and in a frequent state of activity. 
They are seen at great distances, and guide the traveler in his 
course. 

The course and elevation of these ranges give direction to 
the rivers and character to the coast. No great river does, or 
can, take its rise below the Cascade and Sierra Nevada range ; 
the distance to the sea is too short to admit of it. The rivers 
of the San Francisco bay, which arc the largest after the Co- 
lumbia, are local to that bay, and lateral to the coast, having 
their sources about on a line with the Dalles of the Columbia, 
and running each in a valley of its own, between the Coast range 
and the Cascade and Sierra Nevada range. The Columbia is 
the only river which traverses the whole breadth of the coun- 
try, breaking through all the ranges, and entering the sea. 
Drawing its waters from a section of ten degrees of latitude in 
the Rocky mountains, which are collected into one stream by 
three main forks (Lewis's, Clark's, and the North fork) near 
the centre of the Oregon valley, this great river thence pro- 
ceeds by a single channel to the sea, while its three forks lead 
each to a pass in the mountains, M-hich opens the way into the 
interior of the continent. This fact in relation to the rivers of 
this region, gives an inunense value to the Columbia. Its mouth 
is the only inlet and outlet to and from the sea : its three forks 
lead to the passes in the mountains : it is, therefore, the only 
line of communication between the Pacific and the interior of 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 401 

North America; and all operations of war or commerce, of 
national or social intercourse, must be conducted upon it. 
This gives it a value beyond estimation, and would involve 
irreparable injury if lost. In this unity and concentration of 
its waters, the Pacific side of our continent differs entirely from 
the Atlantic side, where the waters of the Alleghany moun- 
tains are dispersed into many rivers, having their different en- 
trances into the sea, and opening many lines of communication 
with the interior. 

The Pacific coast is equally different from that of the At- 
lantic. The coast of the Atlantic is low and open, indented 
with numerous bays, sounds, and river estuaries, accessible 
everywhere, and opening by many channels into the heart of 
the country. The Pacific coast, on the contrary, is high and 
compact, v/ith few bays, and but one that opens into the heart 
of the country. The immediate coast is what the seamen call 
iron-bound. A little within, it is skirted by two successive 
ranges of mountains, standing as ramparts between the sea and 
the interior of the country ; and to get through which there is 
but one gate, and that narrow and easily defended. This struc- 
ture of the coast, backed by these two ranges of mountains, 
with its concentration and unity of waters, gives to the country 
an immense military strength, and will probably render Oregon 
the most impregnable country in the world. 

Differing so much from the Atlantic side of our continent, in 
coast, mountains, and rivers, tlie Pacific side differs from it iiv 
another most rare and singular feature — that of the Great 
Interior Basin, of which I have so often spoken, and the whole 
form and character of which I was so anxious to ascertain.. 
Its existence is vouched for by such of the American traders 
and hunters as have some knowledge of that region ; the struc- 
ture of the Sierra Nevada range of mountains requires it to be 
there ; and my own observations confirm it. Mr. Joseph 
Walker, who is so well acquainted in those parts, informed me 
that, from the Great Salt lake west, there was a succession of 
lakes and rivers which have no outlet to the sea, nor any con- 
nection with the Columbia, or with the Colorado of the Gulf of 
California. He described some of these lakes as being large, 

34* 



402 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

with numerous streams, and even considerable rivers falling 
into tliem. In fact, all concur in the general report of these 
interior rivers and lakes; and, for want of understanding the 
force and power of evaporation, which so soon establishes an 
equilibrium between the loss and supply of waters, the fable 
of whirlpools and subterraneous outlets has gained belief, as 
the only imaginable way of carrying off the waters which have 
no visible discharge. The structure of the country would re.v 
quire this formation of interior lakes ; for the waters which 
would collect between the Rocky mountains and the Sierra 
Nevada, not being able to cross this formidable barrier, nor to 
get to the Columbia or the Colorado, must naturally collect 
into reservoirs, each of which would have its little system of 
streams and rivers to supply it. This would be the natural 
effect ; and what I saw went to confirm it. The Great Salt 
lake is a formation of this kind, and quite a large one ; and 
having many streams, and one considerable river, 400 or 500 
miles long, falling into it. This lake and river I saw and 
examined myself; and also saw the Wah-satch and Bear River 
mountains, which enclose the waters of the lake on the east, 
and constitute, in that quarter, the rim of the Great Basin. 
Afterwards, along the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, where 
we traveled for 42 days, I saw the line of lakes and rivers 
which lie at the foot of that Sierra ; and which Sierra is the 
western rim of the Basin. In going down Lewis's fork and 
the main Columbia, I crossed only inferior streams coming in 
from the left, such as could draw their water from a short dis? 
tance only ; and I often .saw the mountains at their heads white 
with snow, — which, all accounts said, divided the waters of the 
desert from those of the Columbia, and which could be no other 
than the range of mountains which form the rim of the Basin 
on its northern side. And in returning from California along 
the Spanish trail, as far as the head of the Santa Clara fork of 
the Rio Virgen, I crossed only small streams making their 
way .south to the Colorado, or lost in sand, (as the Mo-hah-ve ;) 
while to the left, lofty mountains, their summits white with 
snow, were often visible, and which must have turned water 
to the north as well as to the south, and thus constituted, on 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 403 

this part, tho southern rim of the Basin, At the head of the 
Santa Clara fork, and in the Vegas de Santa Clara, we crossed 
the ridge which parted the two systems of waters. We entered 
the Basin at that point, and have traveled in it ever since ; 
having its southeastern rim (the VVah-satch mountain) on the 
right, and crossing the streams which flow down into it. The 
existence of the Basin is, therefore, an established fact in my 
mind : its extent and contents are yet to be better ascertained. 
It cannot be less than 400 or 500 miles each way, and must 
lie principally in the Alta California ; the demarcation latitude 
of 42° probably cutting a segment from the north part of the 
rim. Of its interior, but little is known. It is called a desert, 
and, from what I saw of it, sterility may be its prominent char- 
apteristic ; but where there is so much water, there must be 
some oasis. The great river, and the great lake, reported, 
may not be equal to the report ; but where there is so much 
snow, there must be streams ; and where there is no outlet, 
there must be lakes to hold the accumulated waters, or sands 
to swallow them up. In this eastern part of the Basin, con- 
taining Sevier, Utah, and the Great Salt lakes, and the rivers 
and creeks falling into them, we know there is good soil and 
good grass, adapted to civilized settlements. In the western 
part, on Salmon Trout river, and some other streams, the same 
remark may be made. 

The contents of this great Basin are yet to be examined. 
That it is peopled, we know ; but miserably and sparsely. 
•From all that I heard and saw, I should say that humanity 
here appeared in its lowest form, and in its most elementary 
state. Dispersed in single families ; without fire-arms ; eating 
seeds and insects ; digging roots, (and hence their name,) — 
such is the condition of the greater part. Others are a degree 
higher, and live in communities upon some lake or river that 
supplies fish, and from which they repulse the miserable Dig- 
ger. The rabbit is the largest animal known in this desert ; 
its flesh afTords u little meat ; and their bag-like covering is 
made of its skins. The wild sage is their only wood, and here 
it is of extraordinary size — sometimes a foot in diameter, and 
six or eight feet high. It ser-.es f )r fiiol, for hnilding material, 



404 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

for slielter to the rabbits, and for some sort of covering for the 
feet and legs in cold weather. Such are the accounts of the 
inhabitiints and productions of the Great Basin ; and which, 
though imperfect, must have some foundation, and excite our 
desire to know the whole. 

The whole idea of such a desert, and such a people, is a 
novelty in our country, and excites Asiatic, not American 
ideas. Interior basins, with their own systems of lakes and 
rivers, and often sterile, are common enough in Asia ; people 
still in the elementary state of families, living in deserts, with 
no other occupation than the mere animal search for food, may 
still be seen in that ancient quarter of the globe ; but in America 
such things are new and strange, unknown and unsuspected, and 
discredited when related. But I flatter myself that what is 
discovered, though not enough to satisfy curiosity, is sullicient 
to excite it, and that subsequent explorations will complete what 
has been commenced. 

This account of the Great Basin, it will be remembered, be- 
longs to the Alta California, and has no application to Oregon, 
whoso capabilities may justify a separate reniark. Referring 
to my journal for particular descriptions, and for sectional 
boundaries between good and bad districts, I can only say, in 
general and comparative terms, that, in that branch of agricul- 
ture which implies the cultivation of grains and staple crops, 
it would be inferior to the Atlantic States, though many parts 
are superior for wheat ; while in the rearing of flocks and 
herds it would claim a high place. Its grazing capabilities are 
great ; and even in the indigenous grass now there, an element 
of individual and national wealth may be found. In fact, the 
valuable grasses begin within one huiuired and iil'ty miles of 
the Missouri frontier, and extend to the Pacific ocean. East 
of the Rocky mountains, it is the short curly gra.ss, on which 
the buffalo delights to feed, (whence its name of bullalo,) and 
which is still good when dry and apparently dead. West of 
thosf mountains it is a larger growth, in clusters, and hence 
called bunch-grass, and which has a second or fall growth. 
Plains and mountains both exhibit them ; and 1 have seen good 
pasturage at an elevation often thousand feet. In this sponta- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 405 

neous product the trading or traveling caravans can find sub- 
sistence for their animals ; and in military operations any num- 
ber of cavalry may be moved, and any number of cattle may 
be driven ; and thus men and horses be supported on long ex- 
peditions, and even in winter, in the sheltered situations. 

Commercially, the value of the Oregon country must be 
great, washed as it is by the North Pacific ocean — fronting 
Asia — producing many of the elements of commerce — mild 
and healthy in its climate — and becoming, as it naturally will, 
a thoroughfare for the East India and China trade. 

Turning our faces once more eastward, on the morning of 
the 27th we left the Utah lake, and continued for two days to 
ascend the Spanish fork, which is dispersed in numerous 
branches among very rugged mountains, which afford few 
passes, and render a familiar acquaintance with them necessary 
to the traveler. The stream can scarcely be said to have a 
valley, the mountains rising often abruptly from the water's 
edge ; but a good trail facilitated our traveling, and there were 
frequent bottoms, covered with excellent grass. The streams 
are prettily and variously wooded ; and everywhere the moun- 
tain shows'grass and timber. 

At our encampment on the evening of the 28th, near the 
head of one of the branches we had ascended, strata of bitumi- 
nous limestone were displayed in an escarpment on the river 
bluffs, in which were contained a variety of fossil shells of 
new species. 

It will be remembered, that in crossing this ridge about 120 
miles to the northward in August last, strata of fossiliferous 
rock were discovered, which have been referred to the oolitic 
period ; it is probable that these rocks also belong to the same 
formation. 

A few miles from this encampment we reached the bed of 
the stream, and o'ossing, by an open and easy pass, the di- 
viding ridge which separates the waters of the Great Basin 
from those of the Colorado, we reached the head branches of 
one of its larger tributaries, which, from the decided color of 
its waters, has received the name of White river. The snows 
of the mountains were now beginning to melt, and all the little 



406 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [May, 

rivulets were running by in rivers, and rapidly becoming diffi- 
cult to ford. Continuing a few miles up a branch of White 
river, we crossed a dividing ridge between its waters and those 
of Uintah. The approach to the pass, which is the best known 
to Mr. Walker, was somewhat difficult for packs, and imprac- 
ticable for wagons — all the streams being shut in by narrow 
ravines, and tlic narrow trail along the steep hill-sides allow- 
ing the passage ofonly one animal at a time. From the sum- 
mit we had a fine view of the snowy Bear River range, and 
there were still remaining beds of snow on the cold sides of 
the hills near the pass. We descended by a narrow ravine, 
in which was rapidly gathered a little branch of the Uintah, 
and halted to noon about 1,500 feet belOw the pass, at an ele- 
vation, by the boiling point, of 6,900 feet above the sea. 

The next day we descended along the river, and about noon 
reached a point where three forks come together. Fording one 
of these with some difficulty, we continued up the middle 
branch, which, from the color of its waters, is named the Red 
river. The few passes, and extremely rugged nature of the coun- 
try, give to it great strength, and secure the Utahs from the in- 
trusion of their enemies. Cro.ssing in the afternoon ar somewhat 
broken highland, covered in places with fine grasses, and with 
cedar on the hill-sides, we encamped at evening on another 
tributary to the Uintah, called the Duchesne fork. The water 
was very clear, the stream not being yet swollen by the melt- 
ing snows, and we forded it without any diHiculty. It is a 
considerable branch, being spread out by islands, the largest 
arm being about a hundred feet wide, and the name it bears is 
probably that of some old French trapp.r. 

The next day we continued down the river, which we were 
twice obliged to cross; and, the water having risen during tiie 
night, it was almost everywhere too deep to be forded. Af- 
ter traveling about sixteen miles, we encamped again on the 
left bank. 

I obtained here an occultation of Scoiyii at the dark limb of 
the moon, which gives for the longitude of the place 112° 18' 
30'', and the latitude 4U=> 18' 53". 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 407 



JUiNE. 

1st. — We left to-day the Duchesne fork, and, after travers- 
ing a broken country for about sixteen miles, arrived at noon 
at another considerable branch, a river of great velocity, to 
whicli the trappers have improperly given the name of Lake 
fork. The name applied to it by the Indians signifies great 
swiftness, and is the same which they use to express the speed 
of a racehorse. It is spread out in various channels over sev- 
eral hundred yards, and is everywhere too deep and swift to 
be forded. At this season of the year, there is an uninter- 
rupted noise from the large rocks which are rolled along the 
bed. After infinite difficulty, and the delay of a day, we suc- 
ceeded in getting the stream bridged, and got over with the 
loss of one of our animals. Continuing our route across a 
broken country, of which the higher parts were rocky and 
timbered with cedar, and the lower parts covered with good 
grass, we reached, on the afternoon of the 3d, the Uintah fort, 
a trading-post belonging to Mr. A. Roubideau, on the princi- 
pal fork of the Uintah river. We found the stream nearly as 
rapid and difficult as the Lake fork, divided into several chan- 
nels, which were too broad to be bridged. With the aid of 
guides from the fort, we succeeded, with very great difiiculty, 
in fording it, and encamped near the fort, which is situated a 
short distance above the junction of two branches which make 
the river. 

By an immersion of the first satellite, (agreeing well with 
the result of the occultation observed at the Duchesne fork,) 
the longitude of the post is 109° 56^ 42", the latitude 40° 27' 
45". 

It has a motley garrison of Canadian and Spanish engages 
and hunters, with the usual number of Indian women. We 
obtained a small supply of sugar and coffi^e, with some dried 
meat and a cow, whicli was a very acceptable change from the 
pinoli on which we had subsisted for some weeks past. I 
strengthened my party at this place by the addition of Auguste 



408 CAPT. FREMOiNx's NARRATIVE. [JuNE. 

Archambcau, an excellent voyagcur and hunter, belonging to 
the class of Carson and Godey. 

On the morning of the 5th we left the fort* and the Uintah 
river, and continued our road over a broken country, which 
afforded, however, a rich addition to our botanical collection ; 
and, after a march of 25 miles, were again checked by an- 
other stream, called Ashley's fork, where we were detained 
until noon of the next day. a 

An immersion of the second satellite gave for this place a 
longitude of 109° 21' OT", the latitude, by observation, being 
40° 28^ 07'^ 

In the afternoon of the next day we succeeded in finding a 
ford ; and, after traveling 15 miles, encamped high up on the 
mountain-side, where we found excellent and abundant grass, 
which we had not hitherto seen. A new species of elymus, 
which had a purgative and weakening effect upon the animals, 
had occurred abundantly since leaving the fort. From this 
point, by observation 7,800 feet above the sea, we had a view 
of the Colorado below, shot up amongst rugged mountains, and 
which is the recipient of all the streams we had been crossing 
since we passed the riin of the Great Basin at the head of the 
Spanish fork. 

On the 7th we had a pleasant but long day's journey, 
through beautiful little valleys and a high mountain country, 
arriving about evening at the verge of a steep and rocky ra- 
vine, by which we descended to " Brown^s ho/r.^^ This is a 
place well known to trappers in the country, where the canons 
through which the Colorado runs expand into a narrow but 
pretty valley, about 16 miles in length. The river was sev- 
eral hundred yards in breadth, swollen to the top of its banks, 
near to which it was in many places 15 to 20 feet deep. We 
repaired a skin-boat which had been purchased at the fort, 
and, after a delay of a day, reached the opposite banks with 



* This fort was attacked and taken by a band of the Utah Indians since 
wo panfird it, and tho mm of the parrison killed — the women carried off". 
Mr. Roiihideau. a trader of St. Louis, was absent, and so CRcaped the fate 
of the rest. 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 409 

much less delay than had heen encountered on the Uintah wa- 
ters. According to information, the lower end of the valley is 
the most eastern part of the Colorado; and the latitude of our 
encampment, which was opposite to the remains of an old fori 
on the left bank of the river, was 40° 46' 27^'', and, by obser- 
vation, the elevation above the sea 5,150 feet. The bearing 
to the entrance of the canon below was south 20° east. Here 
the river enters between lofty precipices of red rock, and the 
country below is said to assume a very rugged character, the 
river and its affluents passing through canons which forbid all 
access to the water. This sheltered little valley was formerly 
a favorite wintering ground for the trappers, as it afforded 
them sufficient pasturage for their animals, and the surround- 
ing mountains are well stocked with game. 

We surprised a flock of mountain sheep as we descended to 
the river, and our hunters killed several. The bottoms of a 
small stream called Vermilion creek, which enters the left 
bank of the river a short distance below our encampment, 
were covered abundantly with F. vermicularis, and other che- 
nopodiaceous shrubs. From the lower end of Brown's hole 
we issued by a remarkably dry canon, fifty or sixty yards 
wide, and rising, as we advanced, to the height of six or eight 
hundred feet. Issuing from this, and crossing a small green 
valley, we entered another rent of the same nature, still nar- 
rower than the other, the rocks on either side rising in nearly 
vertical precipices perhaps 1,500 feet in height. These places 
are mentioned, to give some idea of the country lower down 
on the Colorado, to which the trappers usually apply the name 
of a canon country. The canon opened upon a pond of wa- 
ter, where we halted to noon. Several flocks of mountain 
sheep were here among the rocks, which rung with volleys of 
small-arms. In the afternoon we entered upon an ugly, bar- 
ren, and broken country, corresponding well with that we had 
traversed a few degrees north, on the same side of the Colora- 
do. The Vermilion creek afforded us brackish water and in- 
different grass for the night. 

A few scattered cedar-trees were the only improvement of 
the country on the following day ; and at a little spring of bad 

35 



410 CAPT. FREiMONx's NARRATIVE. [JuNE, 

watt-r, where we halted at noon, we had not even the shelter 
of these Irom the hot rays of the sun. At night we encamped 
in a fine grove of cottonwood-trees, on the banks of the Elk 
Head river, the principal fork of the Yampah river, commonly 
called by the trappers the Bear river. We nnade here a very 
strong fort, and formed the camp into vigilant guards. The 
country we were now entering was constantly infested by 
war parties of the Sioux and other Indians, and is among the 
most dangerous war-grounds in the Rocky mountains ; parties 
of whites having been repeatedly defeated on this river. 

On the 11th we continued up the river, which is a consider- 
able stream, fifty to a hundred yards in widlli, handsomely 
and continuously wooded with groves of the narrow. leaved Cot- 
tonwood, jjopulus angusUfolia ; with these were thickets of 
willow, and grain du bocuf. The characteristic plant along 
the river is F. vcrmicularis, which generally covers tlie bot- 
toms ; mingled with this arc saline shrubs and artemisia. The 
new variety of grass which we had seen on leaving tlic Uintah 
fort had now disappeared. The country on either side was 
sandy and poor, scantily wooded with cedars, but the river bot- 
toms afibrdcd good pasture. Three antelopes were killed in 
the afternoon, and we encamped a little below a branch of the 
river, called St. Vrain's fork. A few miles above was the fort 
at which Frapp's party had been defeated two years since ; 
and we passed during the day a place where Carson had been 
fired upon so close that one of the men had five bullets through 
his body. Leaving this river the next morning, we took our 
way across the hills, wherp every hollow had a spring of run- 
ning water with good grass. 

Yesterday and to-day we had before our eyes the high 
mountains which divide the Pacific from the Mississippi wa- 
ters ; and entering liere among the lower spurs or foot-hills of 
the range, the face of the country began to improve with a 
magical rapidity. Not only the river bottoms, but the hills 
were covered with grass ; and among the usual varied flora 
of the mountain region, tlicse were occasionally blue with the 
siiowy bloom of a lupinus. In the course of the morning we 
had the first glad view of bufialo, and welcomed the appear- 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 411 

ance of two old bulls with as much joy as if they had been mes- 
sengers from home ; and when we descended to noon on St. 
Vrain's fork, an affluent of Green river, the hunters brought 
in mountain sheep and the meat of two fat bulls. Fresh en- 
trails in the river showed us that there were Indians above, 
and at evening, judging it unsafe to encamp in the bottoms, 
which were wooded only with willow thickets, we ascended 
to the spurs above, and forted strongly in u small aspen grove, 
near to which was a spring of cold water. The hunters kill- 
ed two fine cows near the camp. A band of elk broke out of 
a neighboring grove ; antelopes were running over the hills ; 
and on the opposite river-plains herds of buffalo were raising 
clouds of dust. The country here appeared more variously 
stocked with game than any part of the Rocky mountains we 
had visited ; and its abundance is owing to the excellent pas- 
turage, and its dangerous character as a war-ground. 

13th. — There was snow here near our mountain camp, and 
the morning was beautiful and cool. Leaving St. Vrain's 
fork, we took our way directly towards the summit of the di- 
viding ridge. The bottoms of the streams and level places 
were wooded with aspens ; and as we neared the summit, we 
entered again the piny region. We had a delightful morning's 
ride, the ground affording us an excellent bridle-path, and 
reached the summit towards mid-day, at an elevation of y,000 
feet. With joy and exultation we saw ourselves once more 
on the top of the Rocky mountains, and beheld a little stream 
taking its course towards the rising sun. It was an affluent of 
the Platte, called PuUam's fork, and we descended to noon 
upon it. It is a pretty stream, twenty yards broad, and bears 
the name of a trapper who, some years since, was killed here 
by the Gros Ventre Indians. 

Issuing from the pines in the afternoon we saw spread out 
before us the valley of tlic Platte, with the pass of the Medicine 
Butte beyond, and some of the Sweet Water mountains ; but a 
smoky liaziness in the air entirely obscured the Wind River 
chain. 

We were now about two degrees south of the South Pass, 
and our course home would have been eastwardly ; but that 



412 cAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June. 

would have taken us over ground already examined, and 
therefore without the interest that would excite curiosity. 
Southwardly there were objects worthy to be explored, to wit : 
the approximation of the head-waters of three ditFerent riv- 
ers — the Platte, the Arkansas, and the Grand River fork of 
the Rio Colorado of the (Julf of California ; the passages at the 
heads of these rivers ; and tiie three remarkable mountain coves, 
called Parks, in which they took their rise. One of these 
Parks was, of course, on the western side of the dividing ridge ; 
and a visit to it would once more require us to cross the sum- 
mit of the Rocky mountains to the west, and then to recross to 
the cast, making in all, with the transit we had just accomplish- 
ed, three crossings of that mountain in this section of its course. 
But no matter. The coves, the heads of the rivers, the approxi- 
mation of their waters, the practicability of the mountain passes, 
and the locality of the three Parks, were all objects of interest, 
and, although well known to hunters and trappers, were unknown 
to science and to history. We therefore changed our course, 
and turned up the valley of the Platte instead of going down it. 

We crossed several small affluents, and again made a fortified 
camp in a grove. The country had now became very beauti- 
ful — rich in water, grass, and game ; and to these wp re added 
the charm of scenery and pleasant weather. 

14th. — Our route this morning lay along the foot of the 
mountain, over the long low spurs which sloped gradually 
down to the river, forming the broad valley of the Platte. 
The country is beautifully watered. In almost every hollow 
ran a clear, cool, mountain .stream ; and in the course of the 
morning we crossed seventeen, several of them being large 
creeks, forty to fifty feet wide, with a swift current, and tolera- 
bly deep. These were variously wooded with groves of aspen 
and Cottonwood, with willow, cherry, and other shrubby 
trees. Buffalo, antelope, and elk, were frequent dunng 
the day ; and, in their abundance, the latter sometimes re- 
minded us slightly of the Sacramento valley. 

We halted at noon on Potter's fork — a clear and swift 
stream, forty yards wide, and in many places deep enough to 
swim our animals ; and in the evening encamped on a pretty 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 413 

stream, where there were several beaver dams, and many trees 
recently cut down by the beaver. We gave to this the name 
of Beaver Dam creek, as now they are becoming sulliciently 
rare to distinguish by their names the streams on which they 
are found. In this mountain they occurred more abundantly 
than elsewhere in all our journey, in which their vestiges had 
been scarcely seen. 

The next day we continued our journey up the valley, the 
country presenting much the same appearance, except that the 
grass was more scanty on the ridges, over whicii was spread 
a scrubby growth of sage ; but still the bottoms of the creeks 
were broad, and afforded good pasture-grounds. We had an 
animated chase after a grizzly bear this morning, which we 
tried to lasso. Fuentes threw the lasso upon his neck, but it 
slipped oif, and he escaped into the dense thickets of the creek, 
into which we did not like to venture. Our course in the 
afternoon brought us to the main Platte river, here a handsome 
stream, with a uniform breadth of seventy yards, except where 
widened by frequent islands. It was apparently deep, with a 
moderate current, and wooded with groves of large willow. 

The valley narrowed as we ascended, and presently degen- 
erated into a gorge, through which the river passed as through 
a gate. We entered it, and found ourselves in the New Park 
— a beautiful circular valley of thirty miles diameter, walled 
in all round with snowy mountains, rich with water and with 
grass, fringed with pine on the mountain sides below the snow 
line, and a paradise to all grazing animals. The Indian name 
for it signifies " cow lodge," of which our own may be consid- 
ered a translation ; the enclosure, the grass, the water, and 
the herds of buffalo roaming over it, naturally presenting the 
idea of a park. We halted for the night just within the gate, 
and expected, as usual, to see herds of buffalo ; but an Arapa- 
hoe village had been before us, and not one was to be seen. 
Latitude of the encampment 40° 52^ 44^^. Elevation by the 
boiling point 7,720 feet. 

It is from this elevated cove, and from the gorges of the 
surrounding mountains, and some lakes within their bosoms, 
that the Great Platte river collects its first waters, and assumes 

35* 



414 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

itt^ first form ; and certainly no river could ask a more beauti- 
ful origin. 

16th. — In the morning we pursued our way through the 
Park, following a principal branch of the Platte, and crossing, 
among many smaller ones, a bold stream,' scarcely fordable, 
called Lodge Pole fork, and which issues from a lake in the 
mountains on the right, ten miles long. In the evening we- 
encainped on a small stream near the upper end of the Park. 
Latitude of the camp 40° 33' 22'' . 

17th. — We continued our way among the waters of the Park 
over the foot-hills of the bordering mountains, where we found 
good pasturage, and surprised and killed some buffalo. We 
fell into a broad and excellent trail, made by buffalo, where a 
wagon would pass with ease ; and, in the course of the morn- 
ing we crossed the summit of the Rocky mountains, through a 
pass which was one of the most beautiful we had ever seen. 
The trail led among the aspens, through open grounds, richly 
covered with grass, and carried us over an elevation of about 
9,000 feet above the level of the sea. 

The country appeared to great advantage in the delightful 
summer weather of the mountains, which wc still continued to 
enjoy. Descending from the pass, we found ourselves again 
on the western waters ; and halted to noon on the edge of 
another mountain valley, called the Old Park, in which is formed 
Grand river, one of the principal branches of the Colorado 
of California. We were now moving with some caution, as, 
from the trail, we found the Arapahoe village had also pa.ssed 
this way; as we were coming out of their enemy's co'Mntry, 
and this was a war-ground, we were desirous to avoid them. 
After a long afternoon's march, we halted at night on a small 
creek, tributary to a main fork of Grand river, which ran 
through this portion of the valley. The appearance of the 
country in the Old Park is interesting, though of a different 
character from the New ; instead of being a comparative plain, 
it is more or less broken into hills, and surrounded by the high 
mountains, timbered on the lower parts with quaking asp and 
pines. 

18th. — Our scouts, who wore as usual ahead, made from a 



1844.] CAPT. frejioxt's narrative. 415 

hutle this morning the signal of Indians, and we rode up in 
time to meet a party of about 80 Arapahoes. They were 
men and women going into the hills — the men for game, the 
women for roots — and informed us that the village was en- 
camped a few mile^ above, on the main fork of .Grand river, 
which passes through the midst of the valley. I made them 
the usual presents ; but they appeared disposed to be unfriendly, 
and galloped back at speed to the village. Knowing that we 
had trouble to expect, I descended immediately into the bot- 
toms of Grand river, which were overflowed in places, the 
fiver being up, and made the best encampment the ground 
afforded. We had no time to build a fort, but found an open 
place among the willows, wiiich was defended by the river on 
one side and the overflowed bottoms on the other. We had 
scarcely made our few preparations, when about 200 of them 
appeared on the verge of the bottom, mounted, painted, and 
armed for war. We planted the American flag between us; 
and a short parley ended in a truce, with something more than 
the usual amount of presents. About 20 Sioux were with 
them — one of them an old chief, who had always been friendly 
to the whites. He informed me that, before coming down, a 
council had been held at the village, in which the greater part 
had declared for attacking us — we had come from their ene- 
mies, to whom we had doubtless been carrying assistance in 
arms and ammunition ; but his own party, with some ^e\v of 
the Arapahoes who had seen us the previous year in the plains, 
opposed it. It will be remembered that it is customary lor 
this people to attack the trading parties which they meet in this 
region, considering all whom they meet on the western side of 
the mountains to be their enemies. They deceived me into 
the belief that I should find a ford at their village, and I could 
not avoid accompanying them ; but put several sloughs between 
us and their village, and forted strongly on the banks of the 
river, which was everywhere rapid and deep, and over a 
hundred yards in breadth. The camp was generally crowded 
with Indians ; and though the baggage was carefully watched 
and covered, a number of things were stolen. 

The next morning we descended the river for about eight 



416 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

miles, and halted a short distance above a canon, through which 
Grand river issues from the Park. Here it was snio«Hh and 
deep, 150 yards in breadth, and its elevation at this point 
6,700 feet. A frame for the boat being very soon made, our 
bagga<^e was ferried across ; the horses, In the mean time, 
swimming over. A southern fork of Grand river here makes 
its junction, nearly opposite to the branch by which we had 
entered the valley, and up this we continued for about eight 
miles in the afternoon and encamped in a bottom on the lefl 
bank, which afforded good grass. At our encampment it was 
70 to 90 yards in breadth, sometimes widened by islands, and 
separated into several channels, with a very swift current and 
bed of rolled rocks. 

On the 20th we traveled up the left bank, with the prospect 
of a bad road, the trail here taking the opposite side ; but the 
stream was up, and nowhere forduble. A piny ridge of moun- 
tains, with bare rocky peaks, was on our right all the day, and 
a snowy mountain appeared ahead. We crossed many foaming 
torrents with rocky beds, rushing down the river ; and in the 
evening made a strong fort in an aspen grove. The valley 
had already become very narrow, shut up more closely in 
densely timbered mountains, the pines sweeping down the verge 
of the bottoms. The coq dc prairie {tetrao curophasianus) was 
occasionally seen among the sage. 

We saw to-day the returning trail of an Arapahoe party 
wJiich had been sent from the village to look for Utaiis in the 
Bayou Salade, (South Turk ;) and it being probable that they 
would visit our camp with the desire to return on horseback, 
we were more than usually on the alert. 

Here the river diminished to 35 yards, and, notwithstanding 
the number of allluents we had crossed, was still a large 
stream, dashing swifily by, with a great continuous fall, and 
not yet fordal»le. Wo had a delightful ride along a good trail 
among the fragrant pines ; and the appearance of bullalo in 
great numbers indicated that there were Indians in the Bavou 
Salailf, (South Park,) by whom they were driven out. We 
halted to noon under the shade of the pines, an<l the weatlier 
was most delightful. The country was literally alive with 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 417 

buffalo ; and the continued echo of the hunters' rifles on 
the other side of the river for a moment made me uneasy, 
thinking perhaps they were engaged with Indians ; but in 
a short time they came into camp with the meat of seven fat 
cows. 

During the earlier part of the day's ride, the river had been 
merely a narrow ravine between high piny mountains, backed 
on both sides, but particularly on the west, by a line of snowy 
ridges ; but, after several hours' ride, the stream opened out 
into a valley with pleasant bottoms. In the afternoon the river 
forked into three apparently equal streams ; broad buffalo 
trails leading up the left hand, and the middle branch, indi- 
cating good passes over the mountains ; but up the right-hand 
branch, (which, in the object of descending from the mountain 
by the main head of the Arkansas, I was most desirous to 
follow,) there was no sign of a buffalo trace. Apprehending 
from this reason, and the character of the mountains, which are 
known to be extremely rugged, that the right-hand branch led 
to no pass, I proceeded up the middle branch, which formed a 
flat valley- bottom between timbered ridges on the left and 
snowy mountains on the right, terminating in large huUes of 
naked rock. The trail was good, and the country interesting; 
and at nightfall we encamped in an open place among the 
pines, where we built a strong fort. The mountains exhibit 
their usual varied growth of flowers, and at this place I no- 
ticed, among others, ihcrmopsis montana, whose bright yellow 
color makes it a showy plant. This has been a characteristic 
in many parts of the country since reaching the Uintah waters. 
With fields of iris were aqui/egia cccrulea, violets, esparcette, 
and strawberries. 

At dark we perceived a fire in the edge of the pines, on the 
opposite side of the valley. We had evidentljj not been dis- 
covered, and, at the report of a gun, and the blaze of fresh fuel 
which was heaped on our fires, those of the strangers were in- 
stantly extinguished. In the morning, they were found to be 
a party of six trappers, who had ventured out among the moun- 
tains after beaver. They informed us that two of the number 
with which they had started' had been already killed by the 



418 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

Indians — one of thorn l)ut a few days since — by the Arapahoes 
we had lately seen, who had found him alone at a camp on 
this river, and carried off his traps and animals. As they 
were desirous to join us, the hunters returned with them to the 
encampment, and we continued up the valley, in which the 
stream rapidly diminished, breaking into small tributaries — 
every hollow affording water. At our noon halt, the hunters 
joined us with the trappers. While preparing to start from 
their encampment, they found themselves suddenly surrounded 
by a party of Arapahoes, who informed them that their scouts 
had discovered a large Utah village in the Bayou Salade, 
(South Park,) and that a large war-party, consisting of almost 
every man in the village, except those who were too old to go 
to war, were going over to attack them. The main body had 
ascended the left fork of the river, which atTorded a better pass 
than the branch we were on, and this party had followed our 
trail, in order that we might add our force to theirs. Carson 
informed them that we were too far ahead to turn back, but 
would join them in the bayou ; and the Indians went off ap- 
parently satisfied. By the temperature of boiling water, our 
elevation here was 10,430 feet, and still the pine forest contin- 
ued, and grass was good. 

In the afternoon we continued our road occasionally through 
open pines, with a very gradual ascent. We surprised a herd 
of buffalo, enjoying the shade at a small lake among the pines, 
and they made the dry branches crack, as they broke through 
the woods. In a ride of about three-quarters of an hour, and 
having ascended perhaps 800 feet, we reached the snnnnit of 
the (lii'idhig ridge, which would thus have an estimated height 
of ll.'iOO feet. Here tiie river spreads itself into small branches 
and springs, heading nearly in the summit of the ridge, which 
is very narrow. Immediately below us was a green valley, 
through which ran a stream ; and a short distance opposite 
rose snowy mountains, whose summits were formed into peaks 
of naked rock. We soon afterwanls satisfied ourselves that 
immediately beyond these mountains was the main branch of 
the Arkansas river — most probably heading directly with the 
little stream below us, which gathered its waters in the snowy 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 419 

mountains near by. Descriptions of the rugged character of 
the mountains around the head of the Arkansas, which their 
appearance amply justified, deterred me from making any at- 
tempt to reach it, which would have involved £f greater length 
of time than now remained at my disposal. 

In about a quarter of an hour, we descended from the sum- 
mit of the Pass into the creek below, our road having been very 
much controlled and interrupted by the pines and springs on 
the mountain-side. Turning up the stream, we encamped on 
a bottom of good grass near its head, which gathers its waters 
in the dividing crest of the Rocky mountains, and, according 
to the best information we could obtain, separated only by the 
rocky wall of the ridge from the head of the main Arkansas 
river. By the observations of the evening, the latitude of our 
encampment was 39° 20^ 24^'', and south of which, therefore, 
is the head of the Arkansas river. The stream on which we 
had encamped is the head of either the Fontaine -qui-houit, a 
branch of the Arkansas, or the remotest head of the south fork 
of the Platte, as which you will find it laid down on the map. 
But descending it only through a portion of its course, we have 
not been able to settle this point satisfactorily. In the evening 
a band of bufialo furnished a little excitement, by charging 
through the camp. 

On the following day we descended the stream by an excel- 
lent buffalo-trail, along the open grassy bottom of the river. 
On our right, the bayou was bordered by a mountainous 
range, crested with rocky and naked peaks ; and below, it had 
a beautiful park-like character of pretty level prairies, inter- 
spersed among low spurs, wooded openly with pine and quaking 
asp, contrasting well with the denser pines which swept around 
on the mountain sides. Descending always the valley of tlie 
stream, towards noon we descried a mounted party descending 
the point of a spur, and, judging them to be Arapahoes — who, 
defeated or victorious, were equally dangerous to us, and with 
whom a fight would be inevitable — we hurried to post ourselves 
as strongly as possible on some willow islands in the river. We 
had scarcely halted when they arrived, proving to be a party 
of Utah women, who told us that on the other side of the ridge 



420 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

their village was fighting with the Arapahoes. As soon as 
they had given us this information, they filled the air with 
cries and lamentations, which made us understand that some 
of their chiefs had been killed. 

Extending along the river, directly ahead of us, was a low 
piny ridge, leaving between it and the stream a small open 
bottom, on which the Utahs had very injudiciously placed their 
village, which, according to the women, numbered about 300 
warriors. Advancing in the cover of the pines, the Arapahoes, 
about daylight, charged into the village, driving off a great 
number of their horses, and killing four men ; among them, the 
principal chief of the village. They drove the horses perhaps 
a mile beyond the village, to the end of a hollow, where they 
had previously forted, at the edge of the pines. Here the 
Utahs had instantly attacked them in turn, and, according to 
the report of the women, were getting rather the best of the 
day. The women pressed us eagerly to join with their people, 
and would immediately have provided us with the best horses 
at the village ; but it was not for us to interfere in such a con- 
fiict. Neither party were our friends, or under our protection ; 
and each was ready to prey upon us that could. But we could 
not help feeling an unusual excitement at being within a few 
hundred yards of a fight, in which 500 men were closely en- 
gaged, and hearing the sharp cracks of their rifles. We were 
in a bad position, and subject to be attacked in it. Either 
party which we might meet, victorious or defeated, was certain 
to fall upon us ; and, gearing up immediately, we kept close 
along the pines of the ridge, having it between us and the vil- 
lage, and keeping the scouts on the summit, to give us notice 
of the approach of Indians. As we passed by the village, 
which was immediately below us, horsemen were galloping to 
and fro, and groups of people were gathered around those who 
were wounded and dead, and who were being bruugiit in from 
the field. We continued to press on, and, crossing another 
fork, which came in from the right, after having made fifteen 
miles from the village, fortified ourselves strongly in the pines, 
u short distance from the river. 

During the afternoon, Pike's Peak had been plainly in view 



1844.] CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE. , 421 

before us, and, from our encampment, bore N. 87° E. by com- 
pass. This was a familiar object, and it had for us the face 
of an old friend. At its foot were the springs, where we had 
spent a pleasant day in coming out. Near it were the habita- 
tions of civilized men ; and it overlooked the broad smooth 
plains, which promised us an easy journey to our home. 

The next day we left the river, which continued its course 
towards Pike's Peak ; and taking a southeasterly direction, in 
about ten miles we crossed a gentle ridge, and, issuing from 
the South Park, found ourselves involved among the broken 
spurs of the mountains which border the great prairie plains. 
Although broken and extremely rugged, the country was very 
interesting, being well watered by numerous affluents to the 
Arkansas river, and covered with grass and a variety of trees. 
The streams, which, in the upper part of their course, ran 
through grassy and open hollows, after a few miles all descend- 
ed into deep and impracticable canons, through which they 
found their way to the Arkansas valley. Here the buffalo 
trails we had followed were dispersed among the hills, or 
crossed over into the more open valleys of other streams. 

During the day our road was flitiguing and difficult, remind- 
ing us much, by its steep and rocky character, of our travel- 
ing the year before among the Wind River mountains ; but al- 
ways at night we found some grassy bottom, which afforded us 
a pleasant camp. In the deep seclusion of these little streams, 
we found always an abundant pasturage, and a wild luxuriance 
of plants and trees. Aspens and pines were the prevailing 
timber : on the creeks oak was frequent ; but the narrow-leaved 
Cottonwood, (populiis angustifolia,) of unusually large size, and 
seven or eight feet in circumference, was the principal tree. 
With these were mingled a variety of shrubby trees, which 
aided to make the ravines almost impenetrable. 

After several days' laborious traveling, we succeeded in ex- 
tricating ourselves from the mounta\ns, and on the morning of 
the 28th encamped immediately at their foot, on a handsome 
tributary to the Arkansas river. In the afternoon we descend- 
ed the stream, winding our way along the bottoms, which were 
densely wooded with oak, and in the evening encamped near 

36 



422 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [June, 

the main river. Continuing the next day our road along the 
Arkansas, and meeting on the way a war-party of Arapahoe 
Indians, (who had recently been committing some outrages at 
Bent's fort, killing stock and driving ofT horses,) we arrived 
before sunset at the Pueblo, near the mouth of the Foiitaine- 
qui-houit river, where we had the pleasure to find a number of 
our old acquaintances. The little settlement appeared in a 
thriving condition ; and in the interval of our absence an- 
other had been established on the river, some thirty miles 
above. 

On the 30th of June our cavalcade moved rapidly down the 
Arkansas, along the broad road which follows the river. 



JULY. 

On the 1st of July we arrived at Bent's fort, about 70 miles 
below the mouth of the Fontaine-qui-bouii. As we emerged into 
view from the groves on the river, we were saluted with a dis- 
play of the national flag, and repeated discharges from the guns 
of the fort, where we were received by Mr. George Bent with a 
cordial welcome and a friendly hospitality, in the enjoyment 
of which we spent several very agreeable days. We were 
now in the region where our mountaineers were accustomed 
to live ; and all the dangers and difliculties of the road being 
considered past, four of them, including Carson and Walker, 
remained at the fort. 

On the 5th we resumed our journey down the Arkansas, 
traveling along a broad wagon-road, and encamped ubciut 20 
miles below the fort. On the way- we met a very large village 
of Sioux and Cheyenne Indians, who, with the Arapahoes, 
were returning from the crossing of the Arkansas, where they 
had been to meet the Kioway and Camanche Indians. A few 
(lavs previous they had massacred a party of fifteen Dela- 
wares, whom tlicy had discovered in a fort on the Smoky Hill 
river, losing in the aflair several of their own people. They 
were desirous that we should bear a pacific message to the 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 423 

Delawares on the frontier, from whoni they expected retalia- 
tion; and we passed through them without any difficulty or 
delay. Dispersed over the plain in scattered bodies of horse- 
men, and family groups of women and children, with dog- 
trains carrying baggage, and long lines of pack-horses, their 
appearance was picturesque and imposing. 

Agreeably to your instructions, which required me to com- 
plete, as far as practicable, our examinations of the Kansas, I 
left at this encampment the Arkansas river, taking a north- 
easterly direction across the elevated dividing grounds which 
separate that river from the waters of the Platte. On the 7th 
we crossed a large stream, about forty yards wide, and one or 
two feet deep, flowing with a lively current on a sandy bed. 
The discolored and muddy appearance of the water indicated 
that it proceeded from recent rains ; and we are inclined to 
consider this a branch of the Smoky Hill river, although, pos- 
sibly, it may be the Pawnee fork of the Arkansas. Beyond 
this stream we traveled over high and level prairies, halting 
at small ponds and holes of water, and using for our fires the 
bois de vache, the country being without timber. On the 
evening of the 8th we encamped in a Cottonwood grove on the 
banks of a sandy stream-bed, where there was water in holes 
sufficient for the camp. Here several hollows, or dry creeks 
with sandy beds, met together, forming the head of a stream 
which afterwards proved to be the Smoky Hill fork of the 
Kansas river. 

The next morning, as we were leaving our encampment, a 
number of Arapahoe Indians were discovered. They belong- 
ed to a war-party which had scattered over the prairie in re- 
turning from an expedition against the Pawnees. 

As we traveled down the valley, water gathered rapidly in 
the sandy bed from many little tributaries ; and at evening it 
had become a handsome stream, fifty to eighty feet in width, 
with a lively current in small channels, the water being prin- 
cipally dispersed among quicksands. 

Gradually enlarging, in a few days' march it became a 
river eighty yards in breadth, wooded with occasional groves 
of Cottonwood. Our road was generally over level uplands 



424 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July, 

bordering the river, which were closely covered with a sward 
of butlalo-grass. 

On the 10th we entered again the buffalo range, where we 
had found these animals so abundant on our outward journey, 
and halted for a day among numerous herds, in order to make 
a provision of meat sufficient to carry us to the frontier. 

A few days afterwards, we encamped, in a pleasant even- 
ing, on a high river prairie, the stream being less than a hun- 
dred yards broad. During the night we had a succession of 
thunder-storms, with heavy and continuous rain, and towards 
morning the water suddenly burst over the banks, flooding the 
bottoms and becoming a large river, five or six hundred yards 
in breadth. The darkness of the night and incessant rain had 
concealed from the guard the rise of the water ; and the river 
broke into the camp so suddenly, that the baggage was in- 
stantly covered, and all our perishable collections almost en- 
tirely ruined, and the hard labor of many months destroyed in 
a moment. 

On the 17th we discovered a large village of Indians en- 
camped at the mouth of a handsomely wooded stream on the 
right bank of the river. Readily inferring, from the nature 
of the encampment, that they were Pawnee Indians, and con- 
fidently expecting good treatment from a people who receive 
regularly an annuity from the government, we proceeded di- 
rectly to the village, where we found assembled nearly all 
the Pawnee tribe, who were now returning from the crossing 
of the Arkansas, where they had met the Kioway and Ca- 
manche Indians. We were received by them with the un- 
friendly rudeness and characteristic insolence which they never 
fail to display whenever they find an occasion for doing so 
with impunity. The little that remained of our goods was 
distributed among them, but proved entirely insufficient to 
satisfy their greedy rapacity ; and, after some delay, and con- 
siderable difficulty, we succeeded in extricating ourselves from 
the village, and encamped on the river about 15 miles below.* 

• In a recent report to the department, from Major Wharton, who visit- 
ed the Pawnee villages witli a military force some mouths adorwards, it is 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 425 

The country tli rough wliich we had been traveling since 
leaving the Arkansas river, for a distance of 260 miles, pre- 
sented to tlie eye only a succession of far-stretching green 
prairies, covered with the unbroken verdure of the bullalo- 
grass, and sparingly wooded along the streams with straggling 
trees and occasional groves of Cottonwood ; but here the coun- 
try began perceptibly to change its character, becoming a 
more fertile, wooded, and beautiful region, covered with a 
profusion of grasses, and watered with innumerable little 
streams, which were wooded with oak, large elms, and the 
usual varieties of timber common to the lower course of the 
Kansas river. 

As we advanced, the country steadily improved, gradually 
assimilating itself in appearance to the northwestern part of the 
state of Missouri. The beautiful sward of the butfalo-grass, 
which is regarded as the best and most nutritious found on the 
prairies, appeared now only in patches, being replaced by a 
longer and coarser grass, which covered the face of the coun- 
try luxuriantly. The difference in the character of the grasses 
became suddenly evident in the weakened condition of our 
animals, which began sensibly to fail as soon as we quitted the 
buffalo-grass. 

The river preserved a uniform breadth of eighty or a hun- 
dred yards, with broad bottoms continuously timbered with 
large cottonwood-trees, among which were interspersed a few 
other varieties. 

While engaged in crossing one of the numerous creeks which 
frequently impeded and checked our way, sometimes obliging 
us to ascend them for several miles, one of the people (Alexis 
Ayot) was shot through the leg by the accidental discharge of 
a rifle — a mortifying and painful mischance, to be crippled for 
life by an accident, after having nearly accomplished in safety 
a long and eventful journey. He was a young man of remark- 



stated that the Indians had intended to attack our party during the night 
we remained at tiiis encampment, but were prevented by the interposition 
of the Pawnee Loups. 

36* 



426 CAPT. Fremont's narrative. [July-Aug. 

ably good and cheerful temper, and had been among the use- 
ful and efticient men of the party. 

After having traveled directly along its banks for 290 miles, 
we left the river, where it bore suddenly off in a northwesterly 
direction, towards its junction with the Republican fork of the 
Kansas, distant about 60 miles ; and, continuing our easterly 
course, in about 20 miles we entered the wagon-road from 
Santa Fe to Independence, and on the last day of July en- 
camped again at the little town of Kansas, on the banks of the 
Missouri river. 

During our protracted absence of 14 months, in the course 
of which we had necessarily been exposed to great varieties of 
weather and of climate, not one case of sickness had ever oc- 
curred among us. 

Here ended our land journey ; and the day following our 
arrival, we found ourselves on board a steamboat rapidly 
gliding down the broad Missouri. Our travel-worn animals 
had not been sold and dispersed over the country to renewed 
labor, but were placed at good pasturage on the frontier, and 
are now ready to do their part in tlie coming expedition. 

On the 6tli of August we arrived at St. Louis, where the 
party was hnally disbanded, a great number of the men having 
their homes in the neighborhood. 

Andreas Fuentes also remained here, having readily found 
employment for the winter, and is one of the men engaged to 
accompany me the present year. 

Pablo Hernandez remains in the family of Senator Benton, 
where he is well taken care of, and conciliates good-will by his 
docility, intelligence, and amiability. General Almonte, the 
Mexican minister at Washington, to whom he was of course 
made known, kindly offered to take charge of him, and to carry 
him back to Mexico; but the boy preferred to remain where 
he was until ho got an education, for which he shows equal 
ardor and aptitude. 

Our ChiiKx^k Imlian had his wisii to see the whites fully 
gratified. He acet)mpanied me to Washington, and, after re- 
maining several months at the Columbia College, was sent by 
the Indian department to Philadelphia, where, among other 



1844.] CAPT. Fremont's narrative. 427 

things, he learned to read and write well, and speak the Eng- 
lish language with some fluency. He will accompany me in 
a few days to the frontier of Missouri, where he will be sent 
with some one of the emigrant companies to the village at the 
Dalles of the Columbia. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

J. C. FREMONT, 
Bt. Capt. Topi. Engineers. 



ADVERTISING CIRCULAR, 



HALL & DICKSOI, 

Booksellers and Publishers, Syracuse, N. Y., 

RESPECTFULLY SOLICIT THE ATTENTION OF TEACHERS, AND ALL 0THER8 
INTERESTED IN THE SUBJECT OF EDUCATION, TO THE 



OF THE 

ELEMENTARY SOUNDS OF THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE. 



This Chart was arranged and prepared by D. P. Page, Principal of 
New Vork State Normal School, and has received the unqualified approba- 
tion of hundreds of Teachers who have it in daily use in their Schools. 
Mr. Page has been long known to the public as an experienced Eklucator, 
and it is believed that in no department have hisetforts been crowned with 
greater success than in that of Elocution. The Chart embodies the results 
of many years' experience and attention to the subject, and it is confidently 
hoped that it will soon come to be regarded as the Standard on the mat- 
ters of which it teaches in all our Schools. No work of so great hnportance 
has probably ever been before the public, that has in so short a time been 
received with so many marked tokens of favor from Teachers of the high- 
est distinction. Though there are other Charts of merit, yet it is believed 
that the Normal Chart, by the peculiar excellence of its analysis, defini- 
tions, directions and general arrangement, will commend itself to the atten- 
tion of all wlio have ui view the best interests ot their Schools. The Chart 
is got up in superior style, is 50 inches long and 45 wide, mounted on rollers, 
cloth backs, and portions of it are distinctly legible at the distance of fifty 
feet. Subjoined will be found a few out of many Recommendations that 
have been kindly furnished the Author and Publishers. 



From S. S. Randall. 

Skorktary's Offick, ) 
Deparuiient of Com. Schools. J 

Albany, January 05, 1846. 
Mr. L. W. Hall— Pear Sir: I have examined the " Normal Chart of the Ele- 
mentiry Sounds of the Eiialish Lanjiiiagc. arranged nnd prepared by David P 
fagc. Prinri|ml of the ?tile Normal School," and have no hesitation in cordially 
recommending its introduction into our District Schools. It may, wherever deemed 
advisable, be procured under the authority conferred by the latter clause of the 



ADVERTISING CIRCULAR. 



ICth section of the Act of ]t<43, as a portion of the " Scientific Apparatus for the 
use of the iSchouls," under the conditions s|)ecified in that section. 
Yours respectlullv, 

S. S. RANDALL, 
Deputy Superintendent of Common Schools 



From W. II. Scram, A. M. 

Syracuse, Aug. 1, 1846. 
Messrs. Hall St, Dickson — Sirs : I have used in my School for several months 
past, " Page's Noniial Chart of Elemental Sounds." The favorable expectations 
that I anticipated have twen more than realized in its daily use. It awakens great 
interest nmong the pupils, serves to correct faults of enunciation, stammering, 
indistinct uttemnce, and the like, and is useful in developing a full and clear 
voice on the part of the pupil. In addition, the Chart contains much valuable 
information in respect to our lanjpiage. I am confident that no Teacher who 
knows its merit's, will long remain without so useful, and even ornamental ap- 
pendage to the Schoolroom. 

VV. H. SCRAM, A.M. 
Principal of Public School No. 4, Syracase. 



From Charles Northend, Esq. 

Principal of the Eppcs School, Salem, Mass., and President of the Essex Co. 
Teachers' Asseciation. 

D. P. Paob. Esq. — Dear Sir: Having examined with much care, the "Normal 
Chart," which you had the kindness to send me, I deem it my duty to express to 
you my high eslimrite of its worth. I have, for a long time, regarded exercises in 
the Elementary Sounds of our language, a.s of the greatest ini|H)rtance — indispen- 
sable, indeed, to the acquisition of a clear, distinct, and forcible style of reading ; 
and your Chart is admirjbly adMptcd to imparting the necessary Instruction in the 
shortest time and clearest nianner. 

I have susijended your Chart upon one of the walls of my Schoolroom, where 
It m:iy be seen by every pupil, and s[)end a few minutes daily, in in exercises, 
with my whole school. Thus far, I am delighted with it, and my pupils engage 
In its exercises with much interest, and I hope profit. 

Believing, as I sincerely do, that its use will Ite a great auxiliary in the im|)<)rt- 
nnt di-partment of enunciation and reading, I most cheerfully commend it to the 
attention of Teachers and School Committees, it is very plain and simple, and 
may !>« readily unilerstood by all. I trust it will soon be found and used in every 
schoolroom in our country. 

With sincere thanks tor the aid you have rendered our Profession in the pre- 
paration of the " Normal Chart," 

I remain, yours tnilv, 

CHARLES NORTHEND 



From E. G. Storke, E<jq. 

Superintendent of Schools of Cayuira County. 

ArBiRN, Feb. 11, 1840. 
L. W. Mall, E<q. — "The Normal Chart of the Elementary Sounds," which 
you have recently published, is a valuable contribution to our schools. Its ad- 
vantages are many and clearly apparent. In class recitation it is invaluable : the 
character is bold — the representatives of the elements easily distinetiishcd. being 
of a dilTerent color — and the whole subject is so arraneed as to be in view of a 
whole class or school at the same time. It will save much labor on the (wrt of 
the teacher and pupil, and render the study of Phonology, hitherto so irksome and 
repulsive, intorestine and pleasant. The " di-finitions and remarks" are concise, 
yet illri'ct, and all that are needed tor elementary purjioses. The directions to 
teachers are plain and prnrtical, and the arrangement of the vocnN, sub-vocals, and 
Bsplrites, is new, iM'iiiitiful, anil distinri. The tiiblo of equivalents, th'' combina- 
tions to improve nrtirulntlon. the exercises In anilysis, and the examples of diffi- 
cult articulation, are also In view of the cl.iss ; — an arrangement, the advantage 
of which 1 think cannot but tie appreciated. 

Truly vours, 

E.G. STORKE 



ADVERTISING CIRCULAR. 



From J. A. Allen, 

Principal of the Syracuse Academy. 

Syracuse, March 4, 1846. 
Mr. Hall.— Pear Sir: I have examined willi pleasure the Normal Chart, and 
am salistied that it is superior to any thing of the kind with which I am so 
qnainled. 

I have introduced it into my school, and shall recommend it to the attention of 
Teachers everywhere. 

Yours, &.C., 

JOSEPH A. ALLEN 



From the Rpv. P. Bullions, D. D. 

Author of Orcek, I^atin, and English Grammars, S-c. ^-c. 

Albany, Feh. 25, 1846. 
D. P. P.VGE, Esq. — .Accept, Dear Sir. my sincere thanks, for the copy of your 
beautiful Chart received this allornoon. I trust it will soon become as extensively 
known and appreciated .as it deserves to he in every school in the state, furnishing 
in so attractive a form, simple and ctTectual metinsof imparting to youth a correct 
knowledge of the elementary sounds of our language. 

P. BULLIONS. 



From M. G. 3IcKoon. 

Little Falls, Feb. 14, 1846. 

D. P. Page, Esq. — Dear Sir: I acknowledge, with thanks, the receipt of the 
Normal Chart of elementary sounds of the English language, which you sent me 
by express. The high opinion which I had formed of it when it was announced 
by the publisher, is more than realized in its elegant appearance, arrangement, and 
peculiar adaptation to the instruction of large classes. It is one of the most beau- 
tiful articles of furniture for a schoolroom I have ever seen, and it may be made 
very useful in all schools in which the elements of the English language are 
taught. The design of the Chart, and the method of using it, will be readily un- 
derst(X)d by Teachers, and the exercises suggested in the several columns, will he 
found a convenient guide in giving instruction from it. I have used it in the 
Academy at Little Falls, with a class of nearly one hundred pupils, and I find it 
so convenient, that 1 h.ivo no excuse, hereafter, for not making it a weekly exer- 
cise in some of the departments. The pupils in the Primary Department, from 
seven years old and upwards, readily understand it. and take delight in the exer- 
cises. Scholars who aim to be good speakers, should he frequently exercised in 
the elementary sounds oi the language which they are to speak. I am convinced 
that older pupils will derive great assistance, in reading and elocution, from the 
exercises proposed by the Normal Chart, in acquiring distinctness of enunciation, 
and developing the voice, by giving to it smoothness, volume, and strength. It 
affords an excellent discipline for feeble voices, and a very successful remedy for 
impediments of speech. While it is arranced on scientific principles, it is so 
simple, that pupils of all ages and capacity can understand it. 

As an aid to acquiring the art of reading, it deserves a place in every Common 
School in the State. /Vs a large number of the District Schools of N. Y. State 
will hereafter expend a part of their Library money for apparatus, the Normal 
Chart should, in my opinion, be one of the first articles purchased. 

Wishins the Chart the widest circulation to which its superior excellence en- 
titles it, and yourself the reward due to devoted and successful labors in the cause 
of popular education, 

I am, sir, yours, &c., 

M. G. McKOON. 



From the Connty Snperintendent of Columbia Connty . 

The Normal Chart, containing the Elementary Sounds of the English languagu 
will bo found a very useful auxiliary in all our schools, and I cheerfully recom 
mend it to teachers and trustees as ihe best work of the kind. 

H. II. POUCHER, 
April 7. 1846. County Superintendent 

3 



ADVERTISING CIRCULAR. 



From ^Villiam D. Swan, E<iq. 

Jtx.thoT of a valuable Series of School Readers, and Principal of the Mayhew School, 
Boston. 

Mayhkw School, Boston, Feb. 21, 1846. 
D. P. Paoi. E^q. — I thank yoa for the copy of the Normal ChHri (if Elemental 
Sounds iif the English liingu:<gc. I cannot better express my opinion or ii, than 
to infiirm you, that at the time I received it, i was preimrini; a simil.ir one to ac- 
Comptny my ^e^ies of Readers ; liut lindin): yours so perfect, 1 aliaiidoned the task, 
and hereby recouimend it to all who are engaged in teaching reading. 
Yours very truly, ' 

WILLI .\M D. SWAN. 



[From the Salem, Mass., Observer.] 

Jfetc Chart. — We have been much interested In examining a new Chart, en- 
titled '• The iNoriii.il Chart of Eleiiient iry isounds." It was de^igned .iiul prejiared 
by U. I'. Paoc, E>q., formerly of our County, but now at the head of the (lourish- 
hig Normil School. Albany, N. Y. We consider the plan and the exiciition of 
it as admirable. It is plain and siiii]ile, and may be easily understood by quite 
young children. Until quite recently, no particular attention has been given to 
the training or disciplining the vocil organs, and hence we so rarely heardistinct 
and Impressive reading. This Chart should be in every schi>olroom. and if a few 
minuti!^ each diny can be judiciou-ly devoted to its use as a general exercise, we 
believe it will do very much toward the I'ormation of habits of plain, distinct, and 
forcible enunciation. We therefore most cordially commend it to the attention 
of Teachers and School Committees. It may be seen at the bookstore of Messrs. 
W. t S. B. Ives. 



From S. S. Green, Esq. 

Master of the Phillips School, Boston. 

BosTOS, March 20, 1846. 
D. I'. Page. E.iq. — I have examined with much pleasure your " Normal Chart 
of Elementary Sounds," and, what is still better, have U'-ed it in my school. I 
consider it a most valuable part of my apparatus. Nottiing of the kind has be- 
fore ap|>eared, so well adapted to the wants of our schools. I tJtkc this op|Mirlu- 
nity to tliank you for the copy you sent me. and assure you that you have ilone 
a good work for the cause of education. I hope (hat Chart will siwin b« exten- 
sively used In our schools. 

Very truly yours, 

S. 9. GREENE. 



[From the ..Albany F.tening Jovtrnal] 

This Chart is designed to aid the Teacher in giving to his pupils the true Ele- 
mentary Sounds of our language, without a knowledge of which, it is obviously 
impossible for any one to become a good reader. In our opinion. mo>t of the (H«or 
reading which we listen to In our public assemblies, arises TVom inattention to 
the first principles of the languace. 

Where the child is made to thoroughly understand all the elementary sounds 
of the various words used, he cannot liiil of liecoming an accurate and pleasing 
reailcr. We have witnessed the great advantages tif this method of teaching 
rradine in our .\oriiiil .-^choul, ami tlierelore leel that we have a right to sfR-ak 
slroniily on this point. 

The author ot this Chart Is one of our best, and most deservedly popular E»lu- 
r.ttiirs In this country. And standing, as he does, at (he head of the Normal 
SthiBil of ttii< Stito. there Is every reason to believe that his labors. In this par- 
ticular, will bo appreciated by nil those rniiMged in the iii>trnrtion of youth. 

We are glad to -eo that pro|)rr attention has la-en piid to co<.d tislr in the pre- 
pnrilion ol'tlns Cli.art. Its design Is that of the front of a temple, and its pro)>or- 
il<MM lire such us to in iko it an ornament to any schoolroom in which it may 
In} placed. 

What adds particularly to the V'>lue of this Chart, Is the fact that U rnntains 
fall dlrccth OS for it^ use; so that Teachers of ordinary Ingenuity, thoofh they 

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H 20 89''i:^# '^ 



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^ 1989 



